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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

#Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from May 11, 2021

#Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede

Having buttressed their online fashion offering with an impressive collection of fine watches, Mr Porter has become a real force to be reckoned with over the last decade. To celebrate their 10th birthday, they’ve collaborated with IWC on a damn tempting version of their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, a piece that delivers superb legibility at … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite SJX Watches
Swatch May 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite

Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 ‘First Series’ and Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 ‘First Series’ May 10, 2021

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 ‘First Series’ and Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

As the Geneva auctions are almost concluded – with the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time having sold for US$7.83 million – it’s on to the Hong Kong sales that’ll take place in a few weeks. At Phillips’ Hong Kong auction, the top lot is, unsurprisingly, a complicated Patek Philippe. Specifically, a first-series ref. 2499 in yellow gold, which is not exceptionally uncommon in itself, but this example has a rare Wenger case and a valuable piece of paper – the original certificate from 1956. The sale also encompasses another ref. 2499 with its original certificate, a third series in yellow gold that’s more accessibly priced, along with an interesting selection of independent watchmaking. Notably, the line up includes a Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe, along with an Opus V by Urwerk. The Phillips Hong Kong watch auction will happen on June 5 and 6, and the full catalogue is available online at Phillips.com. 2499 duo Most of the first-series ref. 2499s had cases made by Emile Vichet, a Geneva case maker that supplied the cases for the first two years of the model’s production, making about 10 cases in yellow gold and about four in pink. Patek Philippe then turned to Ed. Wenger, another Geneva case maker run by brothers Edouard and Andre, for the rest of the first-series, as well as all subsequent series until 1982 when Patek Philippe starting making its own cases. Only about 30 yellow gold cases were made by Wenger for the first-serie...

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL: A Masterclass In Flexures And Material Science Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock May 9, 2021

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL: A Masterclass In Flexures And Material Science

The main focus of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL is the technology behind the shock absorber, so the watch itself is a simple, three-hand, time-only piece with an ultra-clean dial and generally restrained aesthetic minimizing unnecessary distraction. Joshua Munchow dives in to take a closer look at the progressive compliant technology.

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch Time+Tide
May 9, 2021

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch

Like I say in this video, separating what’s “actually” new versus what a brand tells you is new, and what’s truly innovative from the marketing spin is practically a daily task in watch media. Do. Not. Believe. The. Press. Releases. So, when you ask four hardened hacks from the field for four watches that were … ContinuedThe post RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches…

“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” Time+Tide
Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar May 7, 2021

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction

Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 4 watches May 6, 2021

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy

If you’ve ever come across the singer and songwriter James Blake, you’ll know he’s got one of the best voices in the business and goes about his work with the detached cool of a guy that knows it. His unique style of ambient electronic music has won him critical acclaim and a global fan set, … ContinuedThe post From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021) SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 6, 2021

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021)

A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021! Quill & Pad
May 5, 2021

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021!

Following the uncertainty of the COVID-19 pandemic and the isolating feel of digital fairs, the prospect of a bright, sunny, warm, and welcoming in-person Dubai Watch Week warms our hearts immensely! And we are in for a real treat this time around for more reasons than simply celebrating a return to normality and the ability to touch and feel new watches and meet with old and new friends as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

Up Close: Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 May 3, 2021

Up Close: Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003

Last year’s 60th anniversary was a major event for Grand Seiko, which unveiled several new movements and plenty of limited editions to mark the occasion. The most notable launch was probably the 9SA5 movement, a high-frequency and high-end automatic calibre. The movement made its debut in the luxe yellow-gold SLGH002, then in the steel Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 a few months later. Since then the movement has been installed in a similar, but even more pricey platinum edition, and finally the regular production “White Birch” SLGH005. The cal. 9SA5 All the models are essentially the same, save for different dial finishes and case materials. Here we take a close look at the SLGH003 in steel as a representative for the “SLGH” family. Like its siblings in the family, the SLGH003 is a brand-new reference. The case and dial designs evolved from the existing and familiar Grand Seiko style, but inside is a radically new movement – the cal. 9SA5 with a Dual Impulse escapement. The aesthetic changes have created more refined exterior that better showcase the brand’s case finishing, but more crucially, the improvements signify the brand’s moves upmarket – exemplified by the more elaborate movement and higher price tag. The SLGH003 Initial thoughts Unique among the Grand Seiko line up in terms of its movement and styling, the “SLGH” family boasts new features that are mostly for the better, such as the more elaborate case and sophisticated mov...

5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists Time+Tide
Casio nally though May 3, 2021

5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists

Online shopping is an incredible thing. You can’t come into physical contact with every new watch release, so poring over press releases and store catalogues has become the only way we can analyse new watches. As a result, scrutinising images is now a hugely important part of our pre-purchase tool-set. Occasionally though, the quality of … ContinuedThe post 5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence May 1, 2021

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine

Unveiled just recently at Watches & Wonders 2021, the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine is the newest – and best – iteration of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Historiques wristwatch. Modelled on a 1920s wristwatch with a dial rotated 45 degrees off the vertical, the American 1921 has long been available as a standard-production model in pink and yellow gold, as well as platinum. The new American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a limited edition of 100 pieces with the same idiosyncratic design, but with the enhancements typical of the CEP editions. That means a solid platinum dial along with platinum threads for the strap. Crucially, the 1921 CEP has applied numerals, a bonus found on none of the other versions of the 1921, which makes a good design even better. Initial thoughts Having been launched just over a decade ago, the American 1921 is a familiar watch. I’ve examined the different versions at length, and also wore one for a short period for a review. The 1921 gets most things right – design, details, and size – and looks good on the wrist. The 1921 CEP is unquestionably the best looking iteration of the model to date. Even though the aesthetic changes are modest – primarily the addition of applied hour numerals – the 1921 CEP looks strikingly different. The dial has less contrast but more depth, which results in a more refined appearance. It is, however, pricey. Already the standard version of the 1921 in platinum i...

“This is how my Apple Watch saved my life” Time+Tide
May 1, 2021

“This is how my Apple Watch saved my life”

Editor’s note: Last year, Bruno Molino was sitting in his Melbourne home when his Apple Watch started frantically beeping. Here, the 55-year-old describes exactly what happened next… “It was a Sunday evening and I was just sitting on the couch after dinner. Suddenly, I started to feel a little bit heated and I said to … ContinuedThe post “This is how my Apple Watch saved my life” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Apr 30, 2021

Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection?

At the start of the year, I was asked by my top-knotted boss (aka Andrew) what my exit watch would be. My answer came to me surprisingly quickly for some reason – the Jacob & Co Twin Turbo Furious Baguette Rose Gold with white diamonds and rubies of course. Why? Because it’s preposterously brilliant, complicated, … ContinuedThe post Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.