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Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces May 20, 2026

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties Hodinkee
Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits May 19, 2026

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties

Thierry Stern sat down with Ben Clymer at Watches & Wonders 2026 to walk through Patek Philippe's novelties, and his passion for the product comes through immediately. Nowhere is that more evident than with the Nautilus's 50th anniversary pieces. Compared to the 40th, this is an exercise in restraint. "My idea is to do the counter-steps," Stern said. The three limited-edition anniversary Nautiluses are stripped to hours and minutes only—no date, no seconds—perhaps the most compelling of which is a 38mm platinum case recalling the medium-size Nautilus models of the 1980s, powered by the 2.53mm Calibre 240, its micro-rotor engraved with "50 1976–2026". The wildcard—a personal highlight for Ben—was something genuinely unexpected: Patek's first-ever Nautilus desk clock, the ref. 958G, limited to just 100 pieces. Its white gold case translates the porthole-inspired Nautilus design to 50.65mm, with a hinged caseback that doubles as a stand. Technically a pocket watch, yet perhaps it's better suited to the table. Mr. Stern gives us a peek behind the curtain on how it came to be—and the story behind it is one you'll definitely want to hear. Thierry also walked Ben through the 5840P—the Cubitus's first grand complication, a skeletonized perpetual calendar he'd conceived early in the collection's development but deliberately held back, wanting the design language to land before the mechanics got complicated. The vintage Patek market is certainly booming, with the ref. ...

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club Worn & Wound
May 14, 2026

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club

One of the most memorable additions to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 wasn’t a new release, a panel discussion, or even a brand activation. It was the twist of tiny screwdrivers, movements clicking into place, and attendees experiencing the satisfaction of building a mechanical watch with their own hands. For the first time ever at a Windup Watch Fair, DIY Watch Club hosted live watchmaking workshops throughout the weekend, giving attendees the opportunity to assemble their own watches from the ground up right on-site at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion. Led by DIY Watch Club founder Quinn Lai and his partner Rebecca Lai, the classes quickly became one of the Fair’s most talked-about experiences, drawing everyone from seasoned enthusiasts curious about the mechanics behind their collections to total newcomers looking for a deeper connection to watchmaking. Each workshop guided participants step-by-step through the process of assembling a functioning mechanical watch, including casing the movement, setting the hands, and completing the final assembly. Participants each built one of DIY’s White Dial Stainless Steel GMT, giving them not only a hands-on introduction to watchmaking, but also a genuinely wearable travel-ready mechanical watch to take home at the end of the session. While some attendees arrived slightly intimidated by the process, the atmosphere in the workshop area quickly became collaborative, energetic, and surprisingly relaxed as participants reali...

This Platform Aims To Combat Counterfeiting By Giving Your Watch Its Own DNA Sequence Hodinkee
Breitling as well as May 14, 2026

This Platform Aims To Combat Counterfeiting By Giving Your Watch Its Own DNA Sequence

Year over year, it's becoming increasingly important for luxury brands to back their products with traceability for precious materials like gold and gemstones, both for regulatory and compliance bodies and for conscious consumers. Traceability has become a greater concern with the rise of counterfeiting and the growing demand for transparency in ethical material sourcing. We have seen several watch and jewelry brands taking matters into their own hands by establishing their own traceability programs, from Rolex to Breitling, as well as the entire LVMH group. Here, many brands are relying on the expansion of blockchain technology to create digital passports for their wares. However, one company is taking things even deeper to a forensic level. In 2016, Haelixa started with a mission to streamline traceability within supply chains by developing a patented DNA-based technology to verify product origin and authenticity. "The first application of our DNA markers started at the supply chain level with raw materials," explains Klemens Link, Haelixa's Director of Anti-Counterfeiting and Brand Protection. "We began with textiles but have since expanded into precious metals as well as gemstones. We can apply our DNA-based nanoparticles to rough stones directly at the mine or to rough gold directly at the refinery." On the other end of the spectrum, Haelixa can also implement its technology beyond raw materials and directly to finished goods. "Here, the value proposition is different...

First Look – The Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001, a Duo of Divers in Seiko Blue and Silver Monochrome
Seiko Prospex HBC005 May 14, 2026

First Look – The Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001, a Duo of Divers in Seiko Blue and Silver

We know that Seiko loves to celebrate anniversaries, which often results in fairly attractive limited edition models. This year, the brand is celebrating the 145th anniversary of its creation. In 1881, Kintaro Hattori opened a shop known as “K. Hattori” in Tokyo’s Ginza district, beginning what would evolve into today’s Seiko. He then went on […]

In-Depth – Everything You Need to Know about the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop (Live Photos & Video) Monochrome
Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop May 12, 2026

In-Depth – Everything You Need to Know about the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop (Live Photos & Video)

For the past few days, if you’re even remotely into watches, your Instagram feed has probably been flooded with speculations about Swatch’s next big collaboration. Ever since the first teasers dropped, the rumours have only grown louder. And, honestly, the clues were becoming impossible to ignore. Swatch would be teaming up with Audemars Piguet, and […]

Bring a Loupe: A Movado Polyplan, An Impossible Rolex 1680, And A Full Set Patek 3970 Hodinkee
Tudor Ranger popped up May 8, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Movado Polyplan, An Impossible Rolex 1680, And A Full Set Patek 3970

William Stafford wrote, "I'd just as soon be pushed by events to where I belong." While I wouldn't claim it is great or wise to have a single line from a single poem weigh too heavily on anyone's life, those dozen words have exerted a monumental pull in my own existence. I'm not by nature much of a planner, and the line offered itself as a little sophisticated rejoinder I could tell myself when confronting my chaotic life, but I also think the wisdom the line offers is useful. And you're sitting there at your computer or on your phone going "Dude, I came here to see watches, not some diatribe about poetry or chaos or whatever," but the line, oddly, has played out in my own life in watches more than anywhere else. If you're familiar with Bring A Loupe as it has existed over the years, you've maybe noticed I include fewer dealer picks than was common in the past, and I am 100% blaming a line from an old poem for that. While I know there's nothing inherently better or worse about buying watches through auctions or dealers, auctions are most interesting to me because of their inherent unpredictability. Over a decade ago, a vintage Tudor Ranger popped up on eBay. It was cheap enough that I wouldn't lose money selling it if I didn't like it, so I bought it. I thought nothing at all of whether I loved the watch, had never had any deep desire for that particular model—it's just what was there, that day. Most of the watches I've fallen hardest for—a '69 Speedmaster on Craigslis...

First Look – Baltic and SpaceOne Team Up to Present the Brilliant Seconde Majeure Watch Monochrome
Baltic May 8, 2026

First Look – Baltic and SpaceOne Team Up to Present the Brilliant Seconde Majeure Watch

Some of the best creations often result from the least expected encounters… However, when two radically different creative minds start to work together, nothing says that the alchemy will develop. More often than not, the connection doesn’t come to fruition. At first, there was seemingly no reason for entities like Baltic and SpaceOne to collaborate. […]

Just Because: A Few Standout Pieces From Quincy Jones’ Collection Are Heading To Auction Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux World Time Control Shadow May 6, 2026

Just Because: A Few Standout Pieces From Quincy Jones’ Collection Are Heading To Auction

Quincy Jones was an absolute king. He was a towering figure in the music industry, leaving an indelible stamp on popular culture through his producing, arranging, and film score work. From early collaborations with Count Basie, Ray Charles, and Frank Sinatra to producing one of the top-selling albums of all time (Thriller by Michael Jackson), not to mention We Are The World, he made the soundtrack for many of our lives. During a well-lived lifetime spanning 91 years, he was rewarded with accolades, including the entertainment industry grand slam 'EGOT' (Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, and Tony awards).  There were also plenty of watches and jewelry gifted and collected during his epic life and career. Now some of Quincy Jones' unique pieces are heading to auction at Christie's in Geneva this month. We got a sneak preview of some of the catalog, including these three pieces, that the family has consigned. A couple of them were gifts from notable celebrities to Jones. They all give a sense of some of the objects worn and cherished by one of the most important figures in entertainment history.  Girard-Perregaux World Time Control Shadow 'Quincy Jones' Sized at 43mm in diameter with both a flyback chronograph and a worldtime complication, this Girard-Perregaux, dated from 2011, has a lot going on. The beefy case features a smooth black ceramic exterior, a titanium caseback, and an interior housing, in a size and style that's very representative of the era for the Swiss brand. The watch...

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value Hodinkee
Ming Apr 30, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders Attendance Climbs Despite Geo-Politics And Economic Challenges As Brands Make Case For Value

The watches that prove commercial and collector successes emerging from Watches and Wonders 2026 will have climbed a wall of worry. There was plenty to fret over heading into the watch industry's largest and most important annual salon this year. The eruption of war in the Middle East challenged travel plans and clouded the outlook for visitors from the region and beyond. Indeed, sales have certainly been impacted in the Middle East, and the question remains how quickly stability might return.The existing bugbears of the watch sector – rising input costs from raw materials, including record gold values, ongoing U.S. tariffs, not to mention the continued strength of the Swiss franc, as well as years of retail price increases – remained omnipresent. All told, these factors could have set the stage for a subdued, cautious event. Instead, the industry converged in Geneva, striking an optimistic and inclusive tone where it worked hard to show it's been paying attention to the demands of clients and customers with new watches that drove home a theme of demonstrating value in often, but not always, familiar packages. With public-facing events including Montreaux Jazz concerts in the Geneva city center, Watches and Wonders emphasized its role as a cultural tent pole for the industry and the Swiss watchmaking region, aiming to be more open and welcoming. The new, more public-oriented strategy certainly paid off as attendance jumped to nearly 60,000 unique visitors, a record for...

Everything to See and Do at Windup San Francisco: Padel, Panels, Parties, Watches, and More! Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Apr 29, 2026

Everything to See and Do at Windup San Francisco: Padel, Panels, Parties, Watches, and More!

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is just days away, and we’re fairly certain there’s never been a Windup with as much going on as this one. Alongside everything you’d expect—like amazing lead sponsors including Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris—this fair also features 80+ brands from around the world and a slew of extracurricular activities across all three days. Here’s a quick guide to everything happening in and around the big weekend in The Bay Area, starting with a reminder of the where and when. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone No registration necessary EDC Expo, Giveaways, and More We’re excited for the return of the EDC Expo, presented by GiantMouse. Longtime supporters of Windup, the team at GiantMouse is elevating the gear and accessories section in a meaningful way with their ACE Riv in titanium, brass, green canvas Micarta, and more. Nearly a dozen everyday carry and accessory brands will greet you at the front of Gateway Pavilion. For the first time, you’ll also find Kindred Motorworks on-site, showcasing their meticulously restored EV Broncos—and yes, you can sign up to test-drive one through some of San Francisco’s most iconic streets. Our friends at Fitwell will be joined by their mustachioed mate Andy from Andy’s Watches on Instagram and TikTok at their EDC Expo b...

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics) Hodinkee
Cartier Apr 28, 2026

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics)

It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record.  That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph just so Apr 24, 2026

Just Because: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback Next To Some Classics From Patek Philippe And A. Lange & Söhne

Ask people about the most exciting thing they saw at Watches and Wonders, and I'm willing to bet that a few people might just mention something that wasn't even at the show, but rather tucked away in Old Town—the new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. And you know what? That's understandable. I mean, the new RRCHF has been the talk of the town since its introduction earlier this month, marking the first release from Rexhepi and his brand in literal years. Years in which the brand has continued to climb in legend, desirability, and hype, thanks to the growing recognition of Rexhepi's previous Akrivia line of watches, as well as icons like the Chronomètre Contemporain I and II. If you came here looking for a lengthy read about the new chronograph, I'll steer you instead to Ben's original article covering the release, which has plenty of words that encapsulate everything around the watch and the history leading up to it. And not to spoil anything, but Mark's working on a deeper, hands-on look at the new watch, hitting Hodinkee this summer. So, during our visit last week to Rexhepi's Atelier Akrivia, we decided to do something fun and expand on Ben's initial write-up, which compares the RRCHF to two iconic, high-end, hand-wound chronographs that seem most similar to the RRCHF in the vein of a classically designed chronograph. So we brought along a Patek Philippe 5170P, as well as an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph, just so I could shoot them alongside Rexhepi's chronogra...

Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches Hodinkee
Massena Lab all part Apr 23, 2026

Introducing: The MING Polymesh Straight Brings The Wild Hybrid Strap/Bracelet To More Watches

What We Know Fans of titanium watches now have another truly notable bracelet/strap option for their favorite titanium watches, as Ming has just announced that the brand's frankly jaw-dropping Polymesh bracelet will now be sold in a straight springbar setup. Ming launched the original Polymesh spec back in October of last year, with curved links designed to work well with the brand's own watches. As of today, all 1742 components of this impressive design are now compatible with watches featuring 20mm lug widths, no curved spring bar needed.  For those who need a refresher, the Polymesh is a titanium design that is technically a bracelet but wears like a piece of fabric. It's soft, flowy, and incredibly comfortable. As mentioned, it's a 3D-printed design printed in place using laser sintering with titanium powder. This includes the buckle and endlinks. There are no pins or screws in the design; only the quick-change spring bars are added after the grade-5 titanium bracelet has been printed (which takes about 20 hours).  Just as with the original curved-end version, the Polymesh Straight will retail for CHF $1,500 (~$1,900) with first-week availability limited to Ming, Fears, and Massena LAB (all part of the Alternative Horological Alliance), after which, availability will also include Ming's own retail locations and partners.  What We Think I'll cut to the chase here: I love a good strap and/or bracelet, I have a handful of titanium watches, and this is a release I have ...