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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer 2021 Deployant
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Feb 13, 2021

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer 2021

Omega released the latest update to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional chronograph early this year with some much appreciated upgrades. Several changes were made to the dial and case, but most notably, the movement is now co-axial and anti-magnetic. For speedy owners, a magnetised Speedmaster happens once ever so often and can be quite a pain sometimes. Apart from its technical improvement, the new iteration also features several design updates to the dial and case.

Massena Lab Quietly Drops a Prototype Series of Chronographs SJX Watches
Massena Lab Quietly Drops Feb 13, 2021

Massena Lab Quietly Drops a Prototype Series of Chronographs

Having gotten its start with collaborations with brands like Habring2, Massena introduced its first wristwatch under its own name last year. Now it’s following up with a hush-hush launch of the Archetype 0.0, a “pre-series prototype” watch that’s neither a limited edition nor regular production. Like the earlier Uni-Racer, the Archetype 0.0 is a vintage-style chronograph conceived with an eye for details that only an enthusiast would appreciate. But unlike its predecessor, the Archetype 0.0 isn’t modelled on a specific vintage watch, instead it is a blend of elements that give it a mid-20th century air, while also having modern conveniences like a 100 m water-resistance rating and a domed sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts The Archetype 0.0 has a “sector” dial with a gilt finish – glossy black lacquer with gold print – a perennial favourite that’s not novel but always appealing. Similar dials are attempted often, but because Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a veteran watch collector and industry insider, the Archetype 0.0 gets even the smallest elements right. The numerals, for instance, have tiny serifs, while the six is “open”, as they would be on vintage watches. And the darker print for the logo and sub-dials is another delightful detail. Although vintage in style, the case is unusual in that it’s not usually found with gilt, “sector” dials in vintage watches, making the combination novel in a subtle manner. Notably, the case is rated t...

Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present Time+Tide
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as Feb 13, 2021

Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present

Some champions refuse to wear their hard-earned Rolex through staunch working-class pride – like MMA fighter Michael Bisping in our story here. But British boxer Amir Khan is a man of style and hardly shy of wrist. And why not start the “taking care of it for the next generation” sentiment literally by getting your … ContinuedThe post Boxer Amir Khan’s son gets £30,000 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona as a first birthday present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe two horological heavyweights whose Feb 12, 2021

Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021?

There’s no Baselworld this year, but in April we will have the “phygital” Watches & Wonders to look forward to. Thirty-four brands will be in attendance, among them Rolex and Patek Philippe – two horological heavyweights whose potential novelties will, as always, be eagerly awaited. Back in September we saw Rolex refresh the Submariner collection, … ContinuedThe post Predictions: Will we see new Rolex Explorer watches in 2021? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2021

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor

It was Socrates who suggested that “the male libido is like being chained to a madman”. In Marlon Brando’s case, he was shackled to a veritable asylum. Married three times with two long-term partners, cosy domesticity wasn’t really his “thing”. This, after all was a guy who met his penultimate long-term girlfriend during a threesome … ContinuedThe post Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2021

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen

An American collector recently got in touch to share a recently completed Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a custom dial, a watch that’s unusual and interesting, while also having a thoroughly personal character. Christened the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge Watch, this unique Vingt-8 is a memento of the owner’s home state of Minnesota and its port city of Duluth. Spanning the canal that leads to the Port of Duluth, the Aerial Lift Bridge is a local landmark that can be raised to its full height of 135 feet in order to allow taller ships to pass underneath. Engraved entirely by hand, the dial depicts the Aerial Lift Bridge and a steamship sailing past. It forms the centrepiece of an elaborately decorated Vingt-8 that is also notably discreet in its serene blue and silver colours. Though the owner now lives in a different state, Minnesota holds a special place in his heart. “We are Minnesota residents and have spent a lot of time in Duluth as a family over the years,” explains the owner, “It is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in the country, right on Lake Superior, the largest fresh water lake in the world.” “Seeing the magnificence of these large ocean going ships pass through a very narrow canal under the bridge as they go into the Duluth harbour is truly a sight to behold,” continues the owner, “I have spent a lot of time photographing ships as they pass under the bridge as they come in and out of the harbour.” “I started thinking seriously about ...

MMA fighter Michael Bisping won’t wear his gold Rolex because it makes him “feel like an absolute w*nker” Time+Tide
Rolex because it makes him Feb 9, 2021

MMA fighter Michael Bisping won’t wear his gold Rolex because it makes him “feel like an absolute w*nker”

“I run this whole thing. I run New York. I run this whole ship. Without me none of this happens. I run this whole sh*t.” That was Conor McGregor talking with characteristic modesty about his contribution to the UFC.  In the process, he’s following the tradition of top fighters from time immemorial. That’s because putting … ContinuedThe post MMA fighter Michael Bisping won’t wear his gold Rolex because it makes him “feel like an absolute w*nker” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking SJX Watches
Omega Feb 8, 2021

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking

Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...

Was Conor McGregor’s latest ‘retro’ Rolex Day-Date purchase inspired by Tupac? Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date purchase inspired Feb 7, 2021

Was Conor McGregor’s latest ‘retro’ Rolex Day-Date purchase inspired by Tupac?

Well, Conor McGregor is already at it again. In the wake of two bold Jacob & Co. acquisitions, the UFC superstar has now added some more bling to his collection – only this time he went with a classic 36mm yellow gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 128348RBR with a green ombré dial with diamond markers and … ContinuedThe post Was Conor McGregor’s latest ‘retro’ Rolex Day-Date purchase inspired by Tupac? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

7 ways to use your diving bezel that don’t involve getting wet Time+Tide
Feb 5, 2021

7 ways to use your diving bezel that don’t involve getting wet

Maybe you love the smell of neoprene in the morning. You explore the ocean’s depths on such a regular basis that your Facebook friends barely recognise you without your mask on. But chances are that if you own a diving watch, it’s rarely (if ever) used for the purpose for which it was intended. And … ContinuedThe post 7 ways to use your diving bezel that don’t involve getting wet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? Time+Tide
Rolex release Feb 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April?

Things are back in full swing at Time+Tide HQ this year, but the Coronavirus pandemic isn’t done with the watch industry yet. This week we got the announcement that Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) would go ahead this year, in a “phygital” format, which sounds like an unpleasant medical condition, but is actually a term … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Announces Partnership Feb 4, 2021

TAG Heuer Announces Partnership with Porsche

Collaborations between watchmakers and automobiles manufactures are common, but unsurprising given the focus on engineering and styling shared by the two industries. Despite the obvious synergies, the watch-and-car tie ups of recent years have rarely enjoyed unbridled success. Now TAG Heuer is seeking to upend the trend with a partnership with Porsche, the German marque whose 911 is the longest-lived sports car in history. The partnership is being inaugurated with the Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition Calibre Heuer 02 – a thoroughly apt product given that the flagship product of each brand shares the same name inspired by the Carrera Panamericana of the 1950s. Initial thoughts The inaugural watch of the partnership has modest ambitions. On the surface, it appears to be a gentle facelift of the Carrera Sport Chronograph introduced last year. The case and movement remain the same, but the design features a few subtle elements drawn from Porsche’s racing pedigree. The execution is smart without being over-the-top, avoiding the pitfall of excess automotive elements that accompany many automotive collaborations. At US$6,050 on a bracelet, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is priced at a small and reasonable premium of about 5% over the standard model. Compared with watches resulting from earlier automotive partnerships, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is affordable, and remains a good value proposition, offering a little extra for Porsche and sports car enthusiasts....

2021 Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Review WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Feb 4, 2021

2021 Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Review

Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist.  Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...

Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April Time+Tide
Tudor Feb 4, 2021

Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April

I will be perfectly honest, ever since starting to write about watches, my sincere wish has been to meet up with the Time+Tide team at Basel, SIHH or even some far-flung Far Eastern destination. But then, KER-CLUNK! It was as if a giant hand pulled down a large POWER OFF handle, the lights dimmed and … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, Tudor and TAG plus 34 other brands to show at Watches and Wonders in April appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This bracelet is an integral part of Hublot’s future – here’s why Time+Tide
Hublot s future – here’s Feb 3, 2021

This bracelet is an integral part of Hublot’s future – here’s why

Editor’s note: It only debuted 12 months ago, but the Hublot Big Bang Integral collection has already established itself as a mainstay within the brand’s lineup. Launched with variants in King Gold, titanium and black ceramic, the bracelet is so cleanly designed with its artful blend of polished and brushed surfaces highlighting its razor-sharp facets, … ContinuedThe post This bracelet is an integral part of Hublot’s future – here’s why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Feb 3, 2021

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade

The brand of humour peculiar to H. Moser & Cie. has been expressed in many ways – some of which resulted in legal blowback – but the best known was always the Swiss Alp Watch of 2016. Essentially a high-end mechanical wristwatch that resembles the Apple Watch, the oblong timepiece is now taking its curtain call with a final, 50-piece run. Featured an endlessly black dial coated in Vantablack – the blackest of black substance that absorbs almost all light – the Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade continues the entertaining aesthetic of its predecessors, with a little added humour in the form of a subsidiary seconds that takes the form of the spinning “loading” indicator found in Apple products. Initial thoughts Derived from an earlier iteration of the Swiss Alp Watch with an all-black, “sleep” dial, the final edition is a droll watch that’s easily the most amusing of the series. Though the Swiss Alp Watch has the same form as the Apple Watch, it is notably larger. Despite being a truly minimalist watch, it does sit large and chunky on the wrist. Legibility is surprisingly excellent despite the near-monochromatic dial, as the polished, dark-grey hands have good contrast against the Vantablack dial. But the Swiss Alp Watch is no horological joke. In fact, it is equipped with one of Moser’s top end movements, the HMC 324. It’s a rare movement Moser has used only in one other model that didn’t sell very well. Unusual for being tonneau shaped, the HMC 324 boas...

Three watches that show this billionaire GameStop investor has a formidable wrist game Time+Tide
Feb 1, 2021

Three watches that show this billionaire GameStop investor has a formidable wrist game

Chamath Palihapitiya is a name you might not have heard of a week ago but, thanks to his very public support of the GameStop share trading controversy, it’s now significantly more recognisable. He began his career as an early senior executive at Facebook, before beginning his current venture as the billionaire founder of Social Capital, … ContinuedThe post Three watches that show this billionaire GameStop investor has a formidable wrist game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.