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Issue #3 of NOW Magazine is now available: F-U COVID, we did one just to spite you Time+Tide
Dec 4, 2020

Issue #3 of NOW Magazine is now available: F-U COVID, we did one just to spite you

Cometh the crisis, cometh the magazine. Against all odds, we bring you Issue #3 of our Magazine, in glorious dusky pink, buy Time and Tide Watches’ NOW Magazine here. And it’s here to cheer you from whatever life will continue to throw at you in the most challenging of years – from the “million pound … ContinuedThe post Issue #3 of NOW Magazine is now available: F-U COVID, we did one just to spite you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Featuring Fluid Constant Force Chrono Pushers (With Video) Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Dec 3, 2020

Richard Mille RM 72-01 In-House Chronograph Featuring Fluid Constant Force Chrono Pushers (With Video)

The RM 72-01 is a first for Richard Mille – a relaxed, playful flyback chronograph that, while as interesting and eye-catching as its siblings, is quite a different mechanical beast from the others thanks to its in-house chronograph movement with a variety of new elements and even a world-first in watchmaking.

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Dec 3, 2020

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary

The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Dec 3, 2020

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic

Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating 175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: 12 Extraordinary, Inventive Movement Finishing Techniques, Decoration Styles, And Technology Quill & Pad
Dec 2, 2020

Celebrating 175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: 12 Extraordinary, Inventive Movement Finishing Techniques, Decoration Styles, And Technology

Over the course of 175 years in Glashütte, Germany, some of the noblest elements of fine watchmaking were invented, including the flying tourbillon, the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, and the three-quarter plate, setting these Germanic masterpieces apart from the venerable art of Swiss watchmaking. Here Sabine Zwettler explains 12 magnificent decorative and technical elements of the Glashütte art of fine watchmaking.

Gang robs UK celebrities to steal watches by Patek, Rolex and Cartier in £26 million haul Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Rolex TAG Heuer Dec 2, 2020

Gang robs UK celebrities to steal watches by Patek, Rolex and Cartier in £26 million haul

An international gang flew into London to carry out a 13-day burglary spree on the homes of the rich and famous that netted them a whopping £26 million. Multiple watches were stolen in the heists, including pieces from Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer and Cartier. Prosecutor Timothy Cray QC told the court: “The plan, quite … ContinuedThe post Gang robs UK celebrities to steal watches by Patek, Rolex and Cartier in £26 million haul appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Sylvester Stallone’s Very Own Panerai Luminor SJX Watches
Richard Mille are also Dec 2, 2020

Auction Watch: Sylvester Stallone’s Very Own Panerai Luminor

Instrumental in Panerai’s rise as the “it” brand of the 2000s were the action-hero celebrities who favoured its oversized dive watches. The singular most important personality in establishing the brand in popular culture was Sylvester Stallone, who wore this very Luminor 5218-201/A “pre-Vendome” in the 1996 film Daylight, where he played a firefighter leading survivors out of a collapsed tunnel. Mr Stallone with the Panerai on his right wrist in Daylight A product of the original Panerai company in Italy before the brand moved to Switzerland after Richemont acquired it, the watch has been consigned for sale at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction by Mr Stallone himself. It’s being offered exactly as it was worn on screen, including the sharkskin strap – along with paraphernalia relating to the film as well as a hand-written note stating he wore the watch during its production. Four other watches of Mr Stallone’s, all Richard Mille, are also in the sale, including the RM 32 he wore in The Expendables 3. The Stallone collection In the mid 1990s Mr Stallone also had an informal partnership with Panerai, reputedly receiving several watches from the brand, which then produced several runs of limited edition watches dubbed  “Sly Tech” after Mr Stallone’s nickname. Mr Stallone became an early adopter of Panerai not long after it starting making wristwatches once again in 1993 thanks to Monty Shadow, a photographer born in the former Yugoslavia who i...

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 2 – James Marks, International Watch Specialist at Phillips Gallery London Time+Tide
Dec 1, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 2 – James Marks, International Watch Specialist at Phillips Gallery London

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 2 – James Marks, International Watch Specialist at Phillips Gallery London appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch Time+Tide
Richard Mille Dec 1, 2020

Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch

Editor’s note: I remember it like it was yesterday. I was standing next to a stripper pole with a lovely girl named Agnes, who toured me through all the functions of the brand new RM 69 random-phrase-generating watch by Richard Mille. We then tried it out, so to speak. Lots of fun. But is it … ContinuedThe post Mugger sentenced to 9 years in prison for stealing £692K RM 69 Erotic Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) Time+Tide
Oris Dec 1, 2020

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster)

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I … ContinuedThe post How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches Quill & Pad
Seiko Presage Nov 30, 2020

Seiko Presage: A 2020 Overview With Some New Watches

Seiko has always made it a point to deliver bang for your buck. And in recent years, the brand has been realigning its different collections with the aim of offering collectors exciting products in every price category. For the Presage, this means that there are now two tiers to the collection: Prestige and Basic. Martin Green takes us through a number of the latest models for 2020.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (2020) Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 2020 Nov 29, 2020

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (2020) Review

Breilting’s Chronomat model has been around since 1984, holding a significant place in the brand’s history ever since its release. The Chronomat was released at a time when quartz watches were the popular choice for wrist wear. In 1984, Breitling took an impressive risk, by designing and releasing a mechanical timepiece into a much quartz driven world. The Chronomat upon its release proved to be a winner and became an icon that to this day enthusiasts still love.  The original Breitling Chronomat was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch, which was created in 1983 alongside the famous aerobatic demonstration team of the Italian Air Force; Frecce Tricolori. The stylish design codes of the 1984 Chronomat made this timepiece truly an all-purpose sports watch. Although the Breitling Chronomat was seen as a watch for pilots and the aviation industry, it was just as popular in other areas such as Formula 1 teams. The unique reversible rider tabs also made the Chronomat ideally suited for regattas as well.  With such versatility, the Breitling Chronomat was made to be a daily wearer, a watch that you can wear on the red carpet while fitting in perfectly at outdoor activities and the beach. The latest Breitling Chronomat collection released in 2020 captures all the essence and qualities of the original model while giving it an update with modern design cues and movement, showcasing the brand’s future.  Breitling Chronomat reference AB0134101K1A1 In regards to the Chronom...

Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2020

Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch

Announced last year as a fundraising project for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the MIH Gaïa was delayed for a couple of months due to the pandemic-induced shutdown in Switzerland, but the 200-piece limited edition was recently completed and is now being delivered. Inspired by the Brutalist style of the museum building, the Gaïa watch is a clean but smart design that combines a novel time display with a well-finished case. And importantly, proceeds from its sale go to the MIH, an important horological institution that’s the largest time-measurement museum in the world. Initial thoughts Attractive in design and feel, the Gaïa is an honest product that helps a good cause. Although the style is minimalist, the design incorporates elements that give it a distinctive appearance, most notably the angled lugs and domed minute disc. Although the watch is not large, it has good presence on the wrist as a result of the design. The time display seems unconventional at first, but is actually straightforward, relying on discs instead of hands for both hours and minutes. Reminiscent of a weighing scale, it’s easy to read, though the hour disc looks initially odd because the numerals are arranged anti-clockwise. The minute disc, on the other hand, is conventional but one of the defining visual elements of the watch, thanks to the fact that it’s recessed and slightly spherical. The case is worth pointing out for its form and finish, especially on the lugs. They...

Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas Time+Tide
Seiko creates kick-ass new collection Nov 29, 2020

Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas

Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based … ContinuedThe post Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF37J Nov 28, 2020

HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese

I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J, where Sharp Edge meets Milanese appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens Quill & Pad
Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Nov 27, 2020

Montblanc High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition Fountain Pens

The Montblanc 2020 High Artistry Heritage Egyptomania Limited Edition writing instruments use the treasures and traditions of Egypt as inspiration, and in a new twist each pen is encased in an octagonal “sarcophagus.” A special mechanism opens and closes the bejeweled receptacle, which is as functional as it is decorative and most unusual in the world of luxury pens.

New release: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter with Editorial Commentary (critical) Deployant
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Nov 26, 2020

New release: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter with Editorial Commentary (critical)

Louis Erard continues to partner with watchmaking creators, and builds another bridge with high-end watchmaking by working alongside Vianney Halter, an artist whose every creation is a collector’s dream item. Here, the latest novelty is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter – a 178 piece limited edition, automatic regulator, priced at CHF 3,500. Press releaseRead More