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Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet

AP's 2019 round watch family. Octagonal midcase, round bezel, double-curved sapphire.

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2021

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen

An American collector recently got in touch to share a recently completed Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a custom dial, a watch that’s unusual and interesting, while also having a thoroughly personal character. Christened the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge Watch, this unique Vingt-8 is a memento of the owner’s home state of Minnesota and its port city of Duluth. Spanning the canal that leads to the Port of Duluth, the Aerial Lift Bridge is a local landmark that can be raised to its full height of 135 feet in order to allow taller ships to pass underneath. Engraved entirely by hand, the dial depicts the Aerial Lift Bridge and a steamship sailing past. It forms the centrepiece of an elaborately decorated Vingt-8 that is also notably discreet in its serene blue and silver colours. Though the owner now lives in a different state, Minnesota holds a special place in his heart. “We are Minnesota residents and have spent a lot of time in Duluth as a family over the years,” explains the owner, “It is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in the country, right on Lake Superior, the largest fresh water lake in the world.” “Seeing the magnificence of these large ocean going ships pass through a very narrow canal under the bridge as they go into the Duluth harbour is truly a sight to behold,” continues the owner, “I have spent a lot of time photographing ships as they pass under the bridge as they come in and out of the harbour.” “I started thinking seriously about ...

Looking for the cheapest Patek Philippe Nautilus on the market? Head to the next auction of Phil Collins’ ex-wife Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Feb 11, 2021

Looking for the cheapest Patek Philippe Nautilus on the market? Head to the next auction of Phil Collins’ ex-wife

High-profile break-ups are generally only good news for the paparazzi and divorce lawyers. But auction houses can sometimes become the beneficiary of a celebrity split, too. Russell Crowe good-naturedly named the Sotheby’s Australia auction for some of his belongings “The Art of Divorce” back in 2018, and this year a split between Phil Collins and … ContinuedThe post Looking for the cheapest Patek Philippe Nautilus on the market? Head to the next auction of Phil Collins’ ex-wife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips Time+Tide
Feb 8, 2021

5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips

Whether you are Darth Vader’s distant cousin or just enjoy the stealthy look of a ninja assassin, let us tempt you to the dark side. NOW, Time+Tide’s Watch Buying Guide, reviewed almost 200 of the best new releases from the last 12 months and among them were some real black beauties. From lume-infested diving watches … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck Time+Tide
Feb 6, 2021

Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck

Yes, maybe you use your watch mostly to tell the time. But how about the joys of using a good old chronograph to time your bike ride to the shops. Or flying into another time zone with a GMT on your wrist (it will happen again one day). Let’s tempt you with the best value … ContinuedThe post Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? Time+Tide
Rolex release Feb 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April?

Things are back in full swing at Time+Tide HQ this year, but the Coronavirus pandemic isn’t done with the watch industry yet. This week we got the announcement that Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) would go ahead this year, in a “phygital” format, which sounds like an unpleasant medical condition, but is actually a term … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Unveils the Black-and-Gold Presage 140th Anniversary Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jan 30, 2021

Seiko Unveils the Black-and-Gold Presage 140th Anniversary Edition

With Seiko marking its 140th anniversary in 2021, a slew of commemorative editions are expected – the brand already got the ball rolling last year with a King Seiko and Grand Seiko. Now the anniversary line up gets something more affordable, the Presage Sharp Edged Series 140th Anniversary (SPB205). Limited to 4,000 pieces, the SPB205 is inspired by dawn in Tokyo, explaining the gold highlights on the dial set against an all-black case and bracelet, a first for the Presage series, which typically sticks to more traditional polished steel. Initial thoughts The Presage line is well liked for its variety of intriguing dial finishes at affordable prices. One of its sub-lines, the Sharp Edged Series, features a motif known as asanoha – which translates as “hemp leaf” – a geometric pattern traditionally found on clothing, that shimmers in the light thanks to its textured surface. The SPB205 might just be the most striking of the series to date. The gold indices and hands contrast beautifully against the graduated, brown-black dial, which adds a layer of subtlety to the asanoha texture, unlike earlier models featuring more obvious renditions in brighter colours. With its wide lugs and contrast finish on the bracelet, the SPB205 bears more than a passing resemblance to pricier Grand Seiko models. But it has a price tag of US$1,150, making the SPB205 compelling as a package – the dial, finishing, and blacked-out case. Though priced US$150 higher than the earlier vers...

INTRODUCING: If Darth Vader wore a watch it’d be this Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon Jan 30, 2021

INTRODUCING: If Darth Vader wore a watch it’d be this Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon

One of my favourite traits of the Octo catalogue from Bulgari is its matte, smooth and very quiet elegance. While the endlessly creative Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s chief watch designer, continually sets the bar ever higher, it’s mostly done without the flash and bang of complications. But this week we saw the debut of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: If Darth Vader wore a watch it’d be this Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Bulgari slithers into 2021 with a trio of Serpenti Spiga watches Time+Tide
Bulgari slithers into 2021 Jan 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: Bulgari slithers into 2021 with a trio of Serpenti Spiga watches

More often then not, when we take a deep dive into a watch release, we explore creations billed for men. The idea of gendered watches is becoming more and more contested and, quite frankly, when it comes to spending your hard-earned money you should be able to wear whatever you want. The Bulgari Serpenti, however, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bulgari slithers into 2021 with a trio of Serpenti Spiga watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: With this razor-sharp trio, Hublot once again move the goalposts with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic Time+Tide
Hublot once again move Jan 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: With this razor-sharp trio, Hublot once again move the goalposts with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic

FINALLY! We cried in 2020 as Hublot unleashed their Integral series. With one fell swoop, the Masters of Bold brushed competition aside in the wristwatch MMA series of the Integrated Bracelet Battle For Supremacy. Ingeniously retaining the sharp design language of the Big Bang collection, now close to a contemporary classic, we got the chunkiest, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: With this razor-sharp trio, Hublot once again move the goalposts with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Seiko Jan 23, 2021

The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve

In 2020, everything was different. The way we worked. The way we socialised. And even the way we wore watches. If you only ever got your dress watch out of the safe for a black tie event, it’s likely you didn’t touch it at all last year. I heard stories of people who used to … ContinuedThe post The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary Jan 18, 2021

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary

Announced quietly late last year and already in stores, the Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary (ref. WGTA0057) is a limited edition to mark the centenary of the jeweller’s formal watch for men. A handsome watch that faithfully replicates nearly all elements of the vintage original, the anniversary edition is distinct from the 2018 Tank Cintrée in both case and movement. In fact, the anniversary model is actually a revival of the 2005 Tank Cintrée. The elegance and refinement, however, comes at an unusually high price. A variety of modern-day Tank Cintrée iterations Initial thoughts The Tank Cintrée is a formal watch, with all the elegance and simplicity that dictates, while being a form watch, instead of a plain, round shape that most dress watches are. That’s the singular talent of the Tank Cintrée, explaining why it remains appealing after a century. Practically a one-to-one remake of the 1920s Tank Cintrée, the anniversary edition – like most other vintage remakes – scores high on beauty since the original was attractive, but low on imagination and novelty. And more notably, the anniversary edition is a revival of the a more recent watch, the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold of 2005 – both have the same case and movement. Perfectly executed as a remake, the anniversary edition reproduces the look of a vintage original well in all aspects. But the anniversary edition approximates how a 1920s example would look today, after a century of ageing, rather ...

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton Time+Tide
Grand Seiko launched Jan 7, 2021

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton

In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jan 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS”

H. Moser & Cie. has given its elegant take on the sports watch striking green livery in support of a good cause. The Pioneer “Cure ALS” is essentially an incentive for donations to Duke University’s research and treatment centre for amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), an incurable muscle-weakening disease – making the respective minimum-required donation gets you either of the two limited-edition watches. Both watches features the brand’s signature fume dials in striking, deep green. One is a simple three-hand watch, while the other is equipped with a flying tourbillon containing an impressive double-hairspring. Both watches have discreet lettering at six o’clock in a nod to the cause Initial thoughts Watches created to benefit good causes are heartening, particularly ones like the new Pioneer pair, where the entirety of the donation goes to the medical programme. Already an appealing watch, the Pioneer features many quintessential Moser characteristics – namely the dial finish and in-house movements – and is enhanced by its charitable nature. The brand’s most affordable steel sports watch, the Pioneer Centre Second “Cure ALS” features an upgrade over the ordinary version in the form of an 18k solid-gold rotor that replaces the standard tungsten rotor. However, design wise it is a bit too close to a standard model – the green dial is similar to that in the regular production variant, which is available in a different, but similar, shade of gre...

From Daniel Craig to Ronaldo Jr, six watches we never expected to spot on these wrists… Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2021

From Daniel Craig to Ronaldo Jr, six watches we never expected to spot on these wrists…

Who doesn’t love a good watch spot? You know you’re in the presence of a true watch geek if they feel the need to pause the film every time a timepiece makes a cameo. But at times, these discoveries can feel a bit predictable. Musicians are constantly found wearing AP Royal Oaks or Nautilus references, … ContinuedThe post From Daniel Craig to Ronaldo Jr, six watches we never expected to spot on these wrists… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020 SJX Watches
Chopard Dec 31, 2020

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020

As it was with independent watchmaking, 2020 was a surprisingly good year for the establishment brands. Even though there were practically no in-person launches of new products – with the notable exception being Watches & Wonders in Shanghai – mainstream watchmakers did still debut notable timepieces. Here’s my take on the standouts of the year, starting with the might FB 2RE from Ferdinand Berthoud, a niche name that is nonetheless a subsidiary of Chopard (and the pet project of its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele). Magnificent both in mechanics and decoration, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is the watch of the year. Clearly developed a no-expense spared wristwatch, the FB 2RE is at heart a time-only watch constructed for chronometric perfection. It’s equipped with both a a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee in order to ensure a constant output of energy from the barrel, as well as a constant delivery of energy into the escapement. Both of its key feature are put on show in the symmetrical and architecturally expansive movement, which has all of its key components sitting above the main plate. The FB-RE.FC movement Located just below the balance wheel, the remontoir is particularly fine, made up of slender steel components that are clearly artisanal in manufacture and finish. The quality of finishing extends to the rest of the movement, which is impeccably decorated in every single aspect. In fact, the quality of the movement is com...

The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines Time+Tide
Longines I’d almost have Dec 31, 2020

The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines

I’d almost have to include a ‘ghost watch’ in my three, as there was a long period, at the height of our first lockdown, where I stopped wearing a watch altogether. Despite appearing on Zoom daily, often back to back, for a good few weeks, if not a month, I went bare-wristed. The reason? Two … ContinuedThe post The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight Dec 30, 2020

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Omega Dec 29, 2020

Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020

Every year, the Time+Tide team publishes NOW, our annual print extravaganza. As it says on the cover, essentially it’s a watch buying guide that rounds up the year’s most notable releases into a greatest hits compilation of about 200 watches. But in amongst the usual suspects from the likes of Rolex, Omega and co are … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: This Seiko 5 Sports collab delivers knockout appeal with Street Fighter’s Ken Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports collab delivers Dec 28, 2020

VIDEO: This Seiko 5 Sports collab delivers knockout appeal with Street Fighter’s Ken

The Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions were one of the feel-good highlights of 2020. Taking the tried-and-true template of the 5 Sports collection and combining it with one of the most successful fighting game series in history proved a winning combo – both for watch collectors and fans of the combat franchise. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: This Seiko 5 Sports collab delivers knockout appeal with Street Fighter’s Ken appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dec 27, 2020

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020

Twenty-twenty was a surprisingly good year in independent watchmaking – despite everything – with a fair number of compelling creations by watchmakers of all stripes. From Bernard Lederer at the top to Stefan Sarpaneva at the other end of the price spectrum, the watchmakers showed that the world of independent horology continued to turn in an abnormal year. Here’s a roundup of the best of 2020, led by the impressive and expensive, but also including the eminently affordable. In terms of pure technical achievement, Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is hard to top. Building on the work of George Daniels and Abraham Louis Breguet, Mr Lederer constructed a movement equipped with a double natural escapements, each with its own remontoir and powered by its own going train. While the design of the watch doesn’t do justice to the mechanics, the movement is outstanding. In fact, the only other watch in 2020 comparable to the Central Impulse Chronometer was surprisingly from an establishment brand, or more specifically a subsidiary of a big name, the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, which has Chopard as its parent comment. The movement of the Central Impulse Chronometer. Photo – Bernhard Lederer Also conceived with chronometry in mind, the new Chronomètre à Résonance movement is very much a new and improved version of the original, which has become the hallmark watch of F.P. Journe. Now featuring a remontoir d’egalite for each going train – which mea...

VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports Blanka Seiko Dec 25, 2020

VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka

Seiko has by no means had a quiet year, but there was one collection that demanded attention. The all new Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions turned heads for all the right reasons, taking inspiration from the legendary fighting game, and turning six of the main characters into watch designs. These fighters included … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s favourite watch photos from 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2020

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s favourite watch photos from 2020

In 2019, this was without a doubt one of the pieces I most enjoyed putting together. Not just because I love looking at photos of watches, but because the difference between a good photo and a bad photo is a gulf that isn’t often talked about, and has some of the most impact on how … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s favourite watch photos from 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch

When you’re a hardcore enthusiast it’s easy to get stuck in the #watchfam echo chamber, so it’s always nice to get some outside perspective from others who’ve yet to fall down the horological rabbit hole. That’s exactly what we got from journalist Liana Satenstein, as she ponders her first move in acquiring a classic watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.