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4,052 articles · 502 videos found · page 138 of 152

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery Dec 12, 2023

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery

With the festive season just around the corner, Vacheron Constantin lights up its Overseas Tourbillon with a blaze of baguette-set diamonds. First introduced to the brand’s successful luxury sports Overseas collection in 2019, the Tourbillon model boasts a slim profile thanks to the incorporation of Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin tourbillon calibre 2160. The latest Overseas Tourbillon […]

Introducing – The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night Monochrome
Sarpaneva Dec 5, 2023

Introducing – The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night

The most Scandinavian of independent watchmakers, Stepan Sarpaneva, is in a category all his own … His complex and ultra-detailed watches have always been deeply personal and unique; some even featured his face on the so-called Sarpaneva Moonface. While remaining faithful to the original design cues of Sarpaneva, his recent pieces reveal his desire to reconnect […]

Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Continues Nov 21, 2023

Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest

Last month, Christopher Ward announced the C1 Moonphase, which features a beautiful aventurine dial and a pair of oversized, fully lumed moon discs to track the lunar cycle from month to month. If you thought that watch was cool, but maybe you’re not particularly interested in a moon phase complication, the C63 Celest might be more up your alley. This new reference from Christopher Ward trades on the same style of aventurine dial, but dispenses with the moon altogether. The result is a more straightforward watch that puts the unique qualities of aventurine on center stage.  The C63 Celest is the first watch outside of Christopher Ward’s Moonphase Collection to feature an aventurine dial. Because the effect of aventurine often mimics a starry night sky, it’s used frequently in watches that feature a moonphase, but without this additional complication, one can admire the material more for what it is. Simply put, it’s a type of glass that’s formed by mixing multiple types of glass together during production, including metallic elements (usually copper) that wind up giving the material a specific tonality and the trademark “star” effect. In the “Galaxy Blue” aventurine used by Christopher Ward, cobalt is used to give the dial its flat, cool blue finish.  The Celest is built on Christopher Ward’s C63 platform, and measures a conservative 36mm in diameter. While this case was certainly conceived as a sports watch case through and through, there’s no doubt...

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute Nov 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P

To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Celebrity Oct 11, 2023

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations

In this fourth article commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (following: 4 New 2023 Releases, Here Come ‘The Beasts’, and ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers), here is the topic that initially interested Alexey Kutkovoy the most, i.e. the annals of the Royal Oak Offshore limited and special editions.

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers Worn & Wound
Citizen Brings Sep 28, 2023

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers

Celebrating 30 years since the release of Citizen’s first atomic timekeeping watch, the new Tsuki-yoma A-T shows the evolution of the brand’s technical prowess and Citizen’s penchant for looking skyward for inspiration. Named after the ancient Japanese moon god, the Tsuki-yomi collection lives up to its namesake. Informed by a mathematical formula developed by Citizen, this watch calculates the phase of the moon each day from signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. These signals then are interpreted at the 6 o’clock mark of the dial, adjusting as the natural phases of the move wax and wane throughout the month. Technically speaking, that’s not even the most impressive feature of this watch’s use of the Luna Program technology. The watch will also switch the moon phase display to match the view either from the Northern or Southern Hemisphere, leaving wearers to easily navigate from Australia to New Mexico without having to manually change the moon phases yourself.  The dial is finished with a world time subdial in 24 time zones, a perpetual calendar, and day-date functionality at 4 o’clock. The watch comes in three colorways, blue, silver, and red. Each is housed in a 43mm scratch-resistant Super Titanium case with a sapphire crystal, each durably made to be taken on your next adventure. All three references are powered by the atomic timekeeping movement, Eco-Drive 2 Cal. H874, which can run for upwards of 2.5 years on a full charge.  The Tsuki-...

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes vertical integration Sep 8, 2023

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium

Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre gives Sep 4, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer

Five years on, the Polaris Chronograph gets a subtle update with new dials and movements Dials now feature 35 layers of hand-applied clear lacquer as well as a new light grey colour variant The new Calibre 761 boasts a running seconds feature in place of a 12-hour counter It’s easy to forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s modern … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Shinola Aug 31, 2023

[VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design

Join us in celebrating a major milestone in design and American manufacturing-10 years of Shinola Detroit. To commemorate this landmark year, Shinola has created a new video that presents the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This anthemic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Click here to experience Timeless American Design by Shinola.  Don’t forget to check out a specially curated selection of Shinola’s watches and fine goods at Windup Watch Fair NYC on October 20-22 at The Altman Building, located at 135 W 18th St, New York, NY. The post [VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Inside the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Refs. 5002 and 6002 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Refs Aug 22, 2023

In Depth: Inside the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Refs. 5002 and 6002

Long the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch until it was superseded by the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 (and ref. 6175), the Sky Moon Tourbillon was arguably the brand’s first uber-complication. It was certainly the brand’s first double-faced wristwatch, continuing a lineage of two-sided grand complications that included the famous watches made for Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard and the more recent Calibre 89. Boasting 12 complications, it debuted as the ref. 5002 in 2001 and then evolved into the ref. 6002 in 2014. The ref. 6002 has a more elaborately decorated 44 mm case, along with a revamped calendar display, but is otherwise unchanged in functional and mechanical terms from its predecessor, the ref. 5002 that was slightly smaller at 42.8 mm. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P, the very first variant of the model The ref. 5002 featured a relief decoration on the case band done by machine Despite their comparable sizes, the ref. 6002 is far and away the more striking watch because the fully engraved case and enamelled dial. In fact, the ref. 6002 is probably as over the top as a classically-inclined grand complication can get. Both references are powered by the R TO 27 QR SID LU CL, a multi-layered movement made up of 705 parts. In a world first, we’ll take you inside the movement and show you each of the layers. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R that remains in the current catalogue The ref. 6002 is engraved on almost every surface, even the minu...

The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before Time+Tide
Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off Aug 15, 2023

The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before

The latest edition of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton has been redesigned to better embrace the calibre H-10-S It’s available in 40mm or 36mm configurations The H-10-S boasts an 80-hour power reserve and some nice decoration The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a bit of an outlier within their catalogue. It’s not famous like the Murph or Ventura, … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT SJX Watches
Longines Hydroconquest Aug 14, 2023

The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT

Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch.  The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches Worn & Wound
Seiko Kine Jul 28, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches

Sequent is a Swiss smartwatch brand on a mission. What’s that mission? Well, simply put, it’s to make a smartwatch that watch fans will actually like. No, it doesn’t say that on their website, but after spending some time with two of their models, the Supercharger and the Elektron, that’s the conclusion I’ve come to. You see, these aren’t your typical digital smartwatches, which, let’s face it, unless they come from one of a couple of brands, no one is wearing. Rather, these are analog smartwatches that pair with an app to add some, but not too many, smart features to an otherwise fairly traditional design. To make things even better, they’re automatic, in a manner of speaking. $750 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches Case Steel or Titanium Movement Self-Winding Electronic Dial Solid of Transparent Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Various Water Resistance 50m Dimensions 42 x 46.6mm Thickness 14.2mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Buttons Only Warranty Yes Price $750 The two watches I tried both feature Sequent’s “in-house” movement, which charges via motion. Through the case back, you’ll clearly see a rotor, which happens to be made of tungsten, spinning around. However, that’s where the similarities to a typical mechanical movement stop. The rotor spins, but it doesn’t wind anything, rather it generates electricity via magnetic fields and science. This energy is stored and powers the electronics. It’s a bit like a Seiko Kine...

Sarpaneva Introduces the Näkki, Inspired by Nordic Mythology SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Jul 26, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Näkki, Inspired by Nordic Mythology

Having made a specialty of artistic Super-Luminova that began with the Moomin in 2020, Finnish independent watchmaker Sarpaneva now applies it to a motif inspired by the water spirits of Nordic folkore. The Sarpaneva Näkki has a hand-finished dial open worked to create over 650 apertures that are then filled by hand with luminous paint, creating a multi-coloured scene – with the brand’s trademark moon phase looming overhead – that is best appreciated in the dark. Initial thoughts The Näkki is quintessential Sarpaneva in combining the art and history of its home region along with the brand’s distinctive design. Though its style is similar to Sarpaneva’s past models, particularly last year’s Nocturne, the Näkki is more elaborate in terms of dial decoration and finishing. In fact, unlike past Sarpaneva models with Super-Luminova dials, the Näkki is almost as colourful during the day as a result of the pigmented lume that still has colour even when not luminescent. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Sarpaneva automatic, which means a high quality case and customised movement with an especially elaborate rotor made in-house. Though the movement itself is outsourced and no-frills, the execution of the rest of the components is high quality. At €21,000 before taxes, the Näkki is amongst the most expensive Sarpaneva watches. The price is arguably justified by the complexity of the dial, though it is probably close to the price ceiling...

Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier s new calendar trio Jul 14, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian

Parmigiani Fleurier flexes their watchmaking muscles with three platinum-cased calendar pieces The brand takes on the Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian calendars and executes them in their signature minimalist style Powering the Hijri Perpetual Calendar is the 2020 GPHG-winning calibre PF009 In the last few years, Parmigiani Fleurier might’ve garnered interest through their minimal, slim-wearing pieces … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.