Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Five Watches With Colorful Dials That Deserve Another Look
Distinct takes on color, from a vintage-reissue Zenith to innovative laser techniques and a serene take on green from Grand Seiko.
3,873 articles · 655 videos found · page 138 of 151
Hodinkee
Distinct takes on color, from a vintage-reissue Zenith to innovative laser techniques and a serene take on green from Grand Seiko.
Hodinkee
The watches are available only to lottery entrants starting May 13, so take a look while you still have time.
Fratello
There is an inescapable bond between chronographs and the world of motorsport. Many of the most celebrated examples take their names from races like the Carrera Panamericana or the Daytona 500. So what better way to test the new Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 edition than on the race that gives it its name? […] Visit Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Japanese independent Naoya Hida delves further into Art Deco inspiration and artisanal watchmaking with its 2024 releases.The post Naoya Hida 2024 releases play with shape, engraving, and semi-precious stone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Black Bay took watch fandom by storm when it hit the market in 2012 and the sporty, vintage-inspired divers' watch has since grown into an extensive family with something for just about everyone, now boasting in-house calibers, multiple styles and sizes, and even some precious metals and complications. In this comprehensive guide we explore the origins of the Tudor Black Bay and showcase the standout models you can buy right now. FOUNDATIONS OF TUDOR With an eye toward making watches that would be affordable while still maintaining a high level of quality, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Tudor brand trademark in 1926, and began running the Tudor company as a subsidiary brand of Rolex in 1946. Tudor watches were the only watches on the market at the time that featured reliable third-party movements inside the famed waterproof Rolex Oyster case, also developed in 1926, and were initially more geared toward the tool watch market than were Rolex timepieces, which already enjoyed a reputation as luxury items. The first Tudor watch with the “Oyster” name followed shortly after the launch of the brand, in 1947, kicking off a long tradition of timepieces suitable for underwater adventure. The first Tudor Prince model followed in 1952, around the same time that Tudor began an R&D; partnership with the French Navy (Marine Nationale), from which would emerge the brand’s first dive watch. THE OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tu...
Quill & Pad
Independent brand Petermann Bédat launched its second timepiece, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph in 2023 and it took that years GPHG prize for best chronograph. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes it so special.
SJX Watches
With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...
Monochrome
Now that the dust has settled and we had the time to digest the hundreds of watches we’ve seen and written about at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 and off the fair, we’ve decided to take some time and talk about it. Somehow a new format for us, we’ve invited our founder, Frank Geelen, and […]
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we wrap up our Watches and Wonders 2024 coverage with a debrief episode featuring Nacho, Thomas, and Lex. The guys take some time to go over some brands (and their corresponding releases) that we missed in episode one. They also discuss the general mood […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2024 Debrief to read the full article.
Monochrome
There was a time when watch companies looked to the future, trying to capture the mood, technology, and materials of what might be happening in the coming decades. Then there was the trend for vintage or retro-styled watches, and brands with aeons of heritage dug up classics from the past and revisited them with contemporary […]
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.
Monochrome
Today, we are ending our series of recap articles focused on the best new watches presented during Watches and Wonders 2024 and Geneva Watch Week (we’ve looked at dive watches, chronographs, dress watches or GMT models)… And what’s better to take a look back at some of the show’s most impressive, technically advanced and innovative […]
Monochrome
Part of the Swatch Group and close to sister brand Glashütte Original, Union Glashütte is a slightly more accessible take on German watchmaking, with a younger, sportier appeal – but still with great horological content. Over the years, the brand has built a strong connection with the world of classic cars. A partner of the […]
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]
Fratello
If you haven’t been watching, gold prices have been on a tear over the past year. Currently, the metal is trading at an all-time high. For lovers of vintage watches made from the precious metal, it’s time to wake up and take action. When bidding at auction on an old gold watch, there’s a good […] Visit Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
We take a look at the novelties from Tudor, in this year's Watches & Wonders 2024. This includes additions to the Black Bay and Clair de Lune collection.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has introduced the Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003, in rose gold and “brilliant hard titanium” respectively. Named after the dial pattern, the “Birch Bark” is powered by a new manually-wound, high-beat caliber that features the brand’s proprietary dual-impulse escapement. The only completely new model introduced by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonder this year, the new references introduce a new, notably slimmer aesthetic to the brand’s Evolution 9 collection. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko has earned a devoted following in recent years, but collectors have been asking for slimmer options for some time; this release proves the brand is listening. While there’s nothing revolutionary about it, the watch has been nipped and tucked in all the right areas, getting the case down to 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm in thickness. Compared to the most similar existing watch in the catalog, the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” launched two years ago, the new Evolution 9 feature a new movement, a thinner case, slimmer dial markers, and a horizontal interpretation of the brand’s signature white birch-inspired dial texture. The slimmer profile is made possible thanks to the new 9SA4 movement, which is essentially a 9SA5 without automatic winding. This makes it the first manually wound caliber from Grand Seiko’s latest generation of mechanical movements, and also the first to be available without a date function. Perhaps the onl...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2024 has been filled with new releases. Bvlgari is no stranger to the event and came with several offerings. This year, the brand focused on thin watches and set a record. Yes, the Octo Finissimo took a leading role, but other releases were worth covering. Bvlgari makes some seriously attractive watches, and […] Visit The Bvlgari Releases From Watches And Wonders 2024 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First released in 2019, the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection was met with great success. The brand’s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, it took design cues from a vintage model – the St Mortiz – and adapted it to modern tastes. Specifically, it stands apart with its fascinating textured dial, modelled […]
Worn & Wound
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...
Time+Tide
Highlights from the Maison's releases include a skeletonised Alpine Eagle and a darkly verdant take on the L.U.C XPS.The post Every Chopard release of Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
As Watches And Wonders 2024 kicks off, Tudor introduces the latest incarnation of the upgraded Black Bay model. Following in the METAS-certified footsteps of last year’s introduction, in 2024, the red and gold accents are stripped away in favor of a monochromatic look. And it turns out that when you take away the signature livery […] Visit The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut to read the full article.
Fratello
The new Gerald Charles Masterlink arrives just in time for Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s a modern take on Gerald Genta’s famous Maestro case paired with an integrated bracelet. There’s no mistaking this watch for anything but a Genta-inspired design, yet it’s a thoughtful and new evolution. Last November, I had the opportunity to attend […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink to read the full article.
Monochrome
The origins of Cimier can be traced back to 1924 when Joseph Lapanouse founded his watch company in Holstein, near Basel. A few years later, watches began to be sold under the name Cimier. Among these, the Faux Chronographe, a simplified and affordable take on the chronograph watch, emerged as a huge commercial success. The […]
SJX Watches
After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...
Monochrome
Hanhart was established in Switzerland in 1882 and relocated to Germany in 1902, positioning itself as a formidable competitor to the pricey Swiss-made stopwatches. It became successful by offering timing devices of comparable quality at a more accessible price point. A significant milestone occurred in 1938 with the development of the Caliber 40 mono-pusher chronograph […]
Time+Tide
Want to catch up ahead of the fair? Take a look at our YouTube playlist with 23 videos that we published during Watches & Wonders 2023.The post Previously On: Our entire Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 YouTube playlist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...
Hodinkee
With five examples appearing at auction this fall, it's never been a better time to take a deep dive on my favorite Rolex reference ever.
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