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New: Hermès Slim D’Hermès Cheval Ikat
Hermès releases the new Slim D’Hermès Cheval Ikat featuring the ancient Asian art of making textile known as Ikat. The motif of a horse adorns the dial.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Best Collaboration
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019, celebrating the best in a competitive field of many greats.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992
Panerai has gently eased itself towards a focus on more civilian sports watches, as opposed to retro-navy diver instrument remakes, since chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué took the helm in 2018. So its most recent releases this year include the extra-thin Luminor Due in titanium, along with commemorative editions for the America’s Cup yacht race. But Panerai is still keeping one eye on its Marina Militare heritage, exemplified by the pair of Radiomir watches unveiled last month, the most interesting of which is the Radiomir 8 Days 45mm (PAM00992). It has a vintage-esque style – not really a one for one remake – combined with an in-house, eight-day movement and a relatively accessible price of US$8,500. Most unusually, the steel case has a faux aged finish that Panerai is trying for the first time. Marina Militare The new Radiomir is not a remake of a vintage Panerai, but rather it’s a mix-and-match of various elements, including the engraved logo and “8 Giorni” emblem at three. Traditionalists might find it impure, but that was essentially the founding formula for the modern Panerai company. The result is a good-looking watch that approximates the look of a vintage Panerai while offering modern conveniences like a long power reserve. Even though it’s a large watch – the case is 45mm – it’s smallish by Panerai standards, since the military-style Panerai watches are usually 47mm. But it is big enough to look like a Panerai, and it wears well for a 45mm...
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport: Object Of Desire
If ever there was an unlikely concept, it would have to be the idea of Greubel Forsey – the masters of ultra-finished, mechanically inventive, and (at least in GaryG's view) imposingly dressy watches – coming out with a sporty watch.
Hodinkee
10 Questions: With John Goldberger
The man, the myth, the legend.
Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Sports Chic
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019, celebrating the best in a competitive field of many greats.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #154: Kaz is Alone and He’s Just Talking About Soviet Watches
So it's finally happened... Kaz is recording alone. Unfortunately this week Mike is feeling under the weather, so left to his own devices Kaz records this weeks episode and shares his Soviet Watch Collecting goals for 2020. Plus, Kaz teases a new Orient Star joining his collection soon and discusses his thoughts on the new Alpinist release.
Quill & Pad
Top 5 Least Useful Horological Complications (And Why They Are Still Awesome)
In the real world, some complications are pretty useless. And that's not saying they aren’t cool. Here Joshua Munchow runs through his top 5 most useless complications and why they are simultaneously useless and cool.
SJX Watches
Business News: Swiss Authorities Weigh ETA Sales Ban
According to Swiss newspaper Schweiz am Wochenende (via Reuters), Switzerland’s Competition Commission, a federal body that oversees competition and antitrust matters, is considering an outright ban of movements sales by ETA to third parties, in other words brands outside of the Swatch Group, starting January 2020. Also known as COMCO, or its German acronym WEKO, the agency is expected to deliver a verdict on December 19 . No explicit reason was cited for the potential ban, but it was implied that a recent COMCO report on the industry structure of the movement business is the reason. It is possible that COMCO believes the number of alternatives to ETA is sufficient that the watch industry would be better served over the long term by forcing watch brands to switch away from ETA. COMCO has long tussled with Switzerland’s biggest movement maker, in a dispute that began 17 years ago, when ETA announced it would gradually halt sales of ebauches, or movement blanks, to brands not owned by its parent company, Swatch Group. Because ETA was, and still is, Switzerland’s largest movement, reputedly producing some five million movements a year, its decision was regarded by COMCO as anticompetitive. And the wider Swatch Group – which is the country’s largest watchmaking conglomerate – produces perhaps a third of the components needed for watch movements in the entire industry. In the subsequent years ETA and COMCO reached various agreements over movement supply, with the l...
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Dear Santa: Robin’s Christmas Wishlist
In the second installment of Dear Santa, Robin shares with us some of the watches that he had chosen for his Christmas wishlist.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Prospex ‘Alpinist-Inspired’ Watches For 2020
After months of buildup, the not-so-secret Alpinist refresh is finally underway.
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Dear Santa: Chester’s Christmas Wishlist
We begin our holidays special with 3 watch selections from each of our writers. This time the watches are categorised by price, with three tiers of prices under 1) SGD10,000, 2) SGD25,000; and 3) Limitless.
Quill & Pad
Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton - Reprise
Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Rolex GMT Master, An Eberhard Extra Fort, And An Angelus Chronodato
Your weekly round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
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Chillout TGIF: Phase One XF IQ4 150 with lenses
We try out the world's most expensive camera system for a week - the Phase One XF IQ4 150 with Schneider Kreuznach Bue Ring lenses, and give our user views.
SJX Watches
Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series
An educator by profession, Josh Shapiro had a longtime interest in watchmaking, which sharpened into a pursuit of traditional engine turning in 2013. After several years of practice – and a roomful of guilloche machines – the self-taught guillocheur and watchmaker produced a handful of dials for American watchmaker David Walter in 2016. And last year Josh launched his own brand, J.N. Shapiro, which he now pursues full-time, while remaining a part-time vice principal at a high school in Los Angeles. His debut watch was the Infinity Series, named after the Infinity Weave, a proprietary guilloche pattern he invented. The first J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series delivered, the watch pictured here, was finished earlier this year – and is numbered “N.01”. Though Josh offers a variety of options for the case and dial colours, this watch hews closely to the prototype, with a rose gold case, silver dial, and blue hands. It’s important to note this is actually the first watch Josh sold, and consequently shows some of the inevitable inconsistencies of a watchmaker’s early work. There are a couple of stray marks and burrs on the dial, and a bit of lint, but the early work of independent watchmakers is usually inconsistent, which is part of the hand-finished charm, and also proof of how artisans evolve. Josh’s subsequent dials have improved tremendously. Josh Shapiro with one of his straight-line machines. Photo – J.N. Shapiro The Infinity Series has a simple but effect...
Revolution
Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Limited Edition
Breitling announces the Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Limited Edition to mark six years of dedicated boutique presence in Southeast Asia.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’
Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Everything You Need To Know About Million-Dollar Rolexes
Forget the hype and celebrate the top of the top.
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New and reviewed: Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Greubel Forsey enters the luxury sports watch genre with the new GMT Sport. The case is in Ti, and is curved in multi dimensions. Assertive. Bold. Unique.
SJX Watches
Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette
Tissot has a stellar reputation for well-made watches at notably affordable prices, like the recent Ballade Powermatic 80 or Heritage Petite Second. Switzerland’s biggest watchmaker by production, Tissot maintains a vast portfolio of vintage-inspired, dress and technology-focused watches, including a skeleton wristwatch with modern styling. Skeletonised watches are intriguing as the intricate mechanics that make a movement tick are front and centre. Combining both aesthetics and mechanics can be a tough nut to crack, however, as legibility in particular suffers when a movement is open-worked. Tissot managed to nail both looks and legibility with the T-Complication Squelette, which retails for a little under US$2000. At 43mm in diameter and 12mm high, the T-Complication Squelette is a sizeable watch on the wrist – it has presence – but also an expansive canvas of gears and springs. The stainless steel case is fully brushed with substantial “horn” lugs, and a handful of interesting details that contribute to its character. Most notably is the asymmetry on its upper right flank that is not initially obvious. The case subtly widens from the crown to the top-right lug, filling the angular space between the lug and case that’s present on the other three lugs. And the signed crown has an interesting knurled pattern reminiscent of a turbine, creating a subtle mechanical motif that is echoed in the movement. The bezel is relatively narrow and simply gets out of the way....
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Watchscapes: Ressence Type 1 DXB
Watchscapes: The Ressence Type 1 DXB. A new 19 piece limited edition featuring a charming sand coloured dial with geometric patterns.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ By Jean-Pierre Grosz
‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ by Jean-Pierre Grosz narrates the story of François-Paul Journe, one of the most successful independent watchmakers of our time. This book outlines both Journe’s incredible and – dare I say – courageous career and delves into his personal life, which wasn’t always rosy and light. A very atypical career that deserves the attention it receives with this book, Elizabeth finds it is a must-read.
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New: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Moonphase Retrograde
Maurice Lacroix launches the new Masterpiece Moonphase Retrograde. Returning to its roots with the retrograde display as the USP for the brand.
Hodinkee
Just Because: Actress Carrie Fisher's Watch Is For Sale At Sotheby's
May the force be with you.
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Review: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin - A Romantic Note
We take a look at the new Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps” Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin - A Romantic Note.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
In terms of press, Breguet’s most significant watch of the year is a relatively simple one, the Type 20 for Only Watch, which sold for 210,000 Swiss francs at the charity auction, or just over four times the high estimate. But the most significant watch in terms of haute horlogerie is the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395. The ref. 5395 a large, thin, and ornate watch that’s actually a variant of the large, thin, and simple ref. 5367 introduced two years ago. More elaborate than the typical Breguet, the ref. 5395 is beautifully executed, down to the smallest elements, like the blued-gold hobnail hour markers or mirror-polished countersinks. But most importantly, the movement within is finished exceedingly well – by hand – to a level that’s a cut above the average Breguet complication. Most of that is obvious in the photos below. Graceful proportions At 41mm and just 7.7mm high – thinner than the 8.1mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” – the ref. 5395 sits elegant and flat on the wrist. Compared to larger, and usually more complicated, Breguet watches, this feels like what a classical Breguet should be. Because of its diameter, however, it can look like a dinner plate on smaller wrists. And the ref. 5395 doesn’t work on hairy wrists either, because the skeletonisation leaves a wide gap in between the bridges. That’s because the skeletonisation of the cal. 581SQ inside is extreme; according to Breguet some 50% of the movement’s mass was removed. And th...
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 16: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
In this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, the ever-humble Karl-Friedrich Scheufele talks about Chopard’s beginnings and his various passion projects.
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Musique Du Temps Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons: Chime, Chime, Chime For Every Season
The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Four Seasons is an ode to the journey we all must take, the journey that even our great big planet takes every year as it grows, dies, and is reborn. We can celebrate the mechanics and ingenuity behind the watches, but this limited edition celebrates the fleeting nature of life itself.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Ahead Of Its Sale, Take A Closer Look At Jack Nicklaus's Rolex
The "hole in one" of Talking Watches.