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411 articles · 61 videos found · page 14 of 16

Owner's Review: The Serica 5303-3 COSC Diving Chronometer Is Parisian Teddy Baldassarre
Serica Oct 4, 2024

Owner's Review: The Serica 5303-3 COSC Diving Chronometer Is Parisian

Picture the scene: a hectic work week ends with a quick bite at your favorite Italian trattoria, then you hustle a few blocks afterwards to a dimly lit West Village jazz club to catch a blazing first set from the house band. Glancing down at your wrist, you see you have just enough time to cab it to the airport for the redeye to Paris for a well-deserved long weekend, beachfront on the Côte d'Azur. But the watch on your wrist isn’t a vintage Rolex GMT-Master or Omega Seamaster 300, although either would be a fine choice to segue from the office to the French Riviera without missing a beat. No, your timepiece is from Serica, a microbrand based in France with enough Continental cool and midcentury charm to appear as if it just popped out of a time capsule from 1962. If ever a modern sports watch evoked the Mad Men era, this is it. Even though it’s only been in existence since 2019, Serica doesn't feel like a typical microbrand. In fact, it has the aura of an established horological icon, one with its own storied history and visual language. And if it’s not readily apparent, I’m positively obsessed with the entire Serica aesthetic.  Serica's French-designed, Swiss-made creations blend the refinement of classic Parisian fashion with the urbane cool of a European matinee idol. The company’s debut release was the W.W.W field watch, followed by the 5303 diver that made its bow in 2021, in both black and white-dialed variants. A new colorway was offered the followin...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design Oct 1, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso

There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Bravur Team Heritage Collection

I didn’t learn how to drive a car until I was 25 years old. This was partially motivated by the same frugality that draws me to budget watches, but mostly because bikes offered fun and freedom that cars simply couldn’t compete with. Whether running a quick errand as fast as my legs could carry me without fear of a speeding ticket or riding 100 miles in a single day just for the hell of it, bikes took me everywhere I needed to go. Representing simpler years filled with adventure, cycling was the only hobby that truly captured my heart in the same way watches do today. Though bikes are worth obsessing over and have their own enthusiast community not unlike watches, they have their limitations and mine went into the garage (which I suddenly needed for an old beat-up Volvo) when my daughter was born. It gathered dust, fell victim to tire rot, and was eventually forgotten all together due to its inability to house a growing number of car seats. It was around this same time I was bit by the watch bug, which in retrospect is no coincidence. Last year, cycling made an unexpected re-emergence in my life. I binge watched Tour de France: Unchained on Netflix, learning about different teams, seeing the colorful jerseys they wear, and getting a crash course in how much cycling has changed since I last checked in. Coincidentally, it was at this same time that my friends started pestering me to join them on the trail. Fun fact, did you know you can buy an entire bike for the price of...

G-SHOCK’s Latest NASA Themed Watch is Here Worn & Wound
Omega Jul 22, 2024

G-SHOCK’s Latest NASA Themed Watch is Here

This past weekend marked the 55th anniversary of the moon landing, unquestionably one of the greatest achievements in the history of humanity. When Neil Armstrong set foot on the lunar surface, it changed the world forever. We all know the story of Omega, the Speedmaster, and how that chronograph became the “moonwatch,” but there are plenty of other brands and watches that have attempted to jump on the moon landing and NASA bandwagon in some way. Some of these are successful, some of them are not. But one series of releases that I’ve always thought of as genuinely pretty charming are G-SHOCK’s NASA themed watches, the fifth iteration of which was recently unveiled.  I think one of the reasons these watches work is because you could argue that NASA and G-SHOCK are organizations that share a certain ethos of problem solving rooted in science. NASA, of course, is in the business of solving problems related to the foundations of physics. The fundamental challenge of getting to the moon, after all, is escaping the earth’s gravity. There’s no moonshot if you can’t get out of low earth orbit. G-SHOCK, on the other hand, has a far more niche interest: creating the most indestructible, shock resistant watch possible. Through materials research and a lot of trial and error, they’ve been the kings of tough watches for decades.  The new GW6900-NASA241 takes design inspiration from an unusual but appropriate source: old-school Casio calculators. You can imagine that a...

Avant-Garde Art Takes to the Raketa Dial SJX Watches
Raketa Jun 20, 2024

Avant-Garde Art Takes to the Raketa Dial

Inspired by Russian avant-garde art of the early 20th century, Raketa’s collection of the same name reproduces the graphic, geometric style on watch dials. The Raketa Avant-Garde 0292 is starkly and characterised by bold shapes. And unlike its predecessors, the new Avant-Garde does away with hour markers, which detracts from legibility but makes it all the more striking. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Avant-Garde appears abstract but is actually entirely conventional with three hands on a central axis. While readability is mixed at best, the dial has presence. The boldly graphic dial instantly evokes the art that inspired it, though it is not a like-for-like reproduction. Of all the art-inspired Raketa watches to date, this is the most interesting. Priced at €1,625, the new Avant-Garde sits at the higher end of the range for watches of this segment; comparable watches would be those equipped with Miyota calibres. However, the Avant-Garde has the advantage of striking, original aesthetics that are coherent with the brand and its history. Most “artistic” watches in this price segment tend to have less coherent artistic sensibilities. Granted, the fact that the dial is inspired by Russian art may be a turn-off for some, but the watch in itself is an appealing one. Initial thoughts The Avant-Garde 0292 is modelled on Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, a Bolshevik propaganda poster created during the Russian Civil War by El Lissitzky, a leading artist of the R...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Alexander Sandlass Worn & Wound
Casio G-SHOCK GMW-B5000 – $550  May 31, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Alexander Sandlass

Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we have a selection from watch and gear enthusiast Alexander Sandlass. These three pieces run the gamut in terms of pricing (and Alexander takes advantage of pre-owned pricing for one heavy hitter) but all are icons in their own way. The two value oriented pieces (both of which Alexander actually owns) are classic enthusiast tool watches, and could form the basis for an impressive two watch collection, while the third piece is a very different kind of watch, but indisputably great looking.  When choosing three watches within this budget, one might criticize that I do not take the typical tiered approach when it comes to prices of each piece. Each piece to me holds a certain intrinsic value, and that is why these three watches were chosen. These three watches, to me, are the perfect combination for all purposes. Casio G-SHOCK GMW-B5000 – $550  My first choice is a G-SHOCK GMW-B5000. When I first saw this watch, it brought back memories of when I was younger picking out the “cheap” version at Walmart, thinking I was a badass with a G-Shock. Now, this version is much more rugged, making it the perfect watch for daily carry, and one that you don’t mind if it gets a little banged and scratched up. At a price point of $550, it is not the cheapest “beater watch,” but it will last a long time with proper upkeep along with recommended battery care. That being said, the solar capabilities are a...

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces May 28, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco

Once again, TAG Heuer has released a new Monaco chronograph to celebrate the running of the Monaco Grand Prix, which took place over the weekend in, you guessed it, Monaco. While it’s surely a bit on-the-nose to unveil a new chronograph that is named after the race itself on race weekend, we’ll forgive TAG here given the simple fact that the Monaco Grand Prix’s place in our culture. If it’s not one of the most watched races in the world, it’s certainly one of the most recognizable and well known. The word “Monaco” to many will immediately conjure images of the race, unless it’s heard by a watch collector, in which case iconic square cased chrono is likely to be front of mind. In any event, not introducing a new Monaco on race weekend would likely amount to a tactical error on TAG Heuer’s part, given the intense focus on F1 over the weekend.  The new watch is effectively a new variant of the watch released last year, which introduced skeleton dials to the Monaco collection with brightly colored accents and lightweight titanium cases. Here we have a DLC coated titanium case measuring 39mm across and 15.2mm tall, with a skeletonized dial featuring dark blue and bright yellow accents. Skeleton dials can, of course, sometimes be a bit difficult to read, but time-telling on the skeletonized Monaco is fairly straightforward with sharp white minute markers at the perimeter of the blue minute ring, and oversized lume filled hour markers set against the Caliber 02...

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW002 Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber.  The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic.  The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...

Timex Adds New Vintage Inspired Watches to the Q Collection Worn & Wound
Timex Adds New Vintage Inspired Mar 25, 2024

Timex Adds New Vintage Inspired Watches to the Q Collection

Part of the beauty of a brand rich in history, like Timex, is the ability to look back into their archives and be inspired by past models. For the brand’s latest batch of watches in their ongoing Q series, we see Timex both looking back – while also building some familiar silhouettes for the modern collector. First, we have the Q Timex Reissue 1971 Velocity. Harkening back to the racing heydays of the 1970’s, the Velocity has all the charm expected from a vintage watch, but revitalized with modern bells and whistles we’ve grown accustomed to. For one, the 36mm case has been upgraded to a sturdier stainless steel while the strap is a comfortable – and durable – black rubber. The Velocity has a friction-fit aluminum bezel with an elapsed time scale while the dial is a visual nod to a racing flag, giving you both the form – and function – behind the sporty history of this reference.  As for the second release, the Q Timex Falcon Eye Chronograph’s motto is “The Beat of the 70’s” – and for good reason. With both charm and sophistication, the Falcon Eye does an extraordinary balancing act between paying homage without every veering into redundancy. The stainless steel 40mm case and 3-link bracelet have presence on the wrist and the cool steel is complemented nicely against the blue Côtes de Genève dial, crafted in a way to create a wave of texture. The domed acrylic crystal is a callback to the vintage inspiration of this watch while the date window ...

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists Fratello
Unimatic Mar 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists

Jorg probably doesn’t know this, but every time I see him walking into the office with a Unimatic on his wrist, I get a little more jealous. I’m a fan of the brand’s less-is-more design approach. Plus, the watches look like they can take a beating, and they have a ton of character on the […] Visit Hands-On With The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A - Finally, A Unimatic Watch For Smaller Wrists to read the full article.

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement Fratello
Cartier Tank Must Mar 1, 2024

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement

Cartier introduced three sizes of new Tank Must models in 2021. The Tank Must debuted in the 1970s, but we hadn’t seen any new models for years. Now it’s available again in “extra-large,” “large,” and “small” versions. The extra-large model features a self-winding 1847 MC caliber with central seconds and date, while the large and […] Visit Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair in Blue SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair Jan 24, 2024

Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair in Blue

A year after revamping Pilot collection with fresh-faced aesthetics, Zenith releases a pair of boutique editions – the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Both feature blue dials with a linear horizontal pattern inspired by stamped aluminium body panels of vintage aircraft. Initial thoughts Zenith is best known for El Primero of 1969, a high-frequency chronograph calibre now in its second generation, which is the movement found in both new Pilot models, although the former is not a chronograph. Both, however, share the same design that defines the current Pilot line-up. Unveiled last year, the Pilot has a friendlier, more modern face than most aviator’s watches that tend to be military-inspired. It has all of the hallmarks of a pilot’s watch, including large Arabic numerals and legibility, but manages to look distinct from all the other pilot’s watches on the market. Although blue is hardly a novel colour, the new patterned dials adds to the contemporary look, being even less military-esque than last year’s models in conventional black. The Pilot Automatic retails for US$7,500, while the Pilot Big Date Flyback retails for US$11,500. The time-and-date automatic is relatively pricey for a simple watch, although the high-beat, in-house movement helps justify the price somewhat. On the other hand, the chronograph is competitive against similar watches from rival brands, particularly since the calibre inside is the latest generation of the El Primero. Moreov...

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster SJX Watches
Longines Nov 20, 2023

Seiko Debuts a Smaller, Thinner Prospex Marinemaster

Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...

Meetup Recap: Making Time in DC with Worn & Wound Readers and the Oris Airstream Worn & Wound
Oris Airstream Here Sep 18, 2023

Meetup Recap: Making Time in DC with Worn & Wound Readers and the Oris Airstream

Here at Worn & Wound, we talk a lot about a concept we refer to as “curated approachability.” This is the concept that we can celebrate our enthusiasm for products, especially watches, in a way that is both elevated, yet accessible. It’s a fine line to walk and few brands can do that better than Oris. So we were thrilled when the Oris team approached us about doing a meetup-style event with them somewhere a bit off the beaten path. We knew the Washington DC area was a spot where we not only had a strong crop of Worn & Wound readers, but it was a place where we were bound to have a great time. On Sunday, September 10th-at a stellar indoor/outdoor venue called Hook Hall-we squeezed the always-impressive Oris Airstream in and joined the Oris team along with dozens upon dozens of watch enthusiasts. Together we broke bread… er sliders, made new friends, and examined the full range of Oris’ new offerings. Some highlights on display from the Oris collection included the all-new 40mm Limited Edition Big Crown Pilot celebrating the life and humanitarian work of baseball hall-of-famer Hank Aaron. Guests were also treated to the striking Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023, which sports a striking purple dial that you can’t take your eyes off. To top it off, guests could try on the full array of their ever-popular “Cotton Candy” Divers Sixty-Fives in both steel and bronze. Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023 Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton ...

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes vertical integration Sep 8, 2023

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium

Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before Time+Tide
Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off Aug 15, 2023

The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before

The latest edition of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton has been redesigned to better embrace the calibre H-10-S It’s available in 40mm or 36mm configurations The H-10-S boasts an 80-hour power reserve and some nice decoration The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a bit of an outlier within their catalogue. It’s not famous like the Murph or Ventura, … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton shows off its beating heart better than before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vulcain Brings Back the Nautical Cricket (Again) Worn & Wound
Vulcain Brings Back Jul 27, 2023

Vulcain Brings Back the Nautical Cricket (Again)

Most dive watches we come across qualify as such thanks to a chunky bezel, gobs of lume on the dial, and halfway decent depth rating. Vulcain, never keen to adhere to the well beaten path, took a different approach with their diver, the Nautical Cricket, and it shows at first blush. The impressive depth rating is there, sure, but the rest of the formula kind of goes out the window. It’s an approach I’d love to see more of in modern divers, and am thrilled to see Vulcain return to the concept 60 years after the original, and 10 years after the first attempt at resuscitation. It’s entirely confusing at a glance, and even if you know what you’re looking at, it still might require an explanation. The new Nautical Cricket is the latest chapter in Vulcain’s modern resurgence.  The Nautical Cricket is, as you may have guessed from the name, an alarm watch, which can be set via the thin 4th hand with bright red tip. While unique, that’s not the most unusual element to this watch. That would be the inner portion of the dial, which is littered with rings and number sets and a long thin aperture which reveal further sets of numbers when turned. These tables are used in conjunction with the alarm timer, and if used correctly, will give you the length of your decompression stops at 3, 6, and 9 meters on your ascent. How this works exactly is a bit trickier to decipher, but makes the watch all the more interesting as a dive tool. Things begin with the planned length of your...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Thomas S. Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 May 19, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Thomas S.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thomas S. brings us a capable trio that isn’t afraid to step off the well beaten path. There’s new stuff, hard to get stuff, and kinda (but not really) old stuff, all bound by a great sense of style and practicality. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I’m a minimalist at heart. That doesn’t mean I always succeed. As far as watches are concerned, I certainly have more than three (though proudly less than ten). I’ve spent the last couple of years working towards attaining my own perfect three watch collection. These watches are the core of what I take traveling, and are the most worn of all of my watches. I find it a well-rounded collection, if still leaning towards being sporty. As my collection grows (and shrinks) over the years, I anticipate these three watches remaining at the forefront of my collection. Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – $600 – $1000 The SARB017 was the first mechanical watch I ever bought myself. I picked it up just after Seiko quietly discontinued it, and was lucky enough to get it well under what they are selling for now, new or used. With the trusty and near-indestructible 6R15 caliber inside, the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 holds its own as a daily work watch beater. I should know, I wear it often when climbing and pruning trees as an arborist. The crown guards and second crown at 4 o’clock bely the A...