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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rolex Acquires Legacy Retailer Bucherer, India’s Historic Moon Landing, and the New Observer Collection O.C’s Worn & Wound
Tudor Aug 26, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rolex Acquires Legacy Retailer Bucherer, India’s Historic Moon Landing, and the New Observer Collection O.C’s

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Rolex The Crown Expands Their Empire Via Siam Swiss In somewhat stunning watch industry news this week, Rolex announced they have acquired the enduring retailer, Bucherer. Both Swiss companies have been closely working together for nearly 100 years, as Bucherer retailers have served as authorized dealers for Rolex and their sibling brand Tudor. Considering the behemoth that Rolex is, it’s safe to say that the average watch enthusiast has a fair understanding of how The Crown operates. Bucherer however, has a tendency to move in relative silence, so here’s a bit of background. Bucherer is based in Lucerne, Switzerland but has a network of retail stores that span worldwide. They only furthered their reach when in 2018, the Bucherer Group acquired Tourneau, a fellow retailer with rich heritage rooted in the United States. But that’s not all. Bucherer has also built a catalog of in-house brands including their very own line of watches, Carl F. Bucherer. According to Rolex, the opportunity to acquire such a prestigious name came when Jorg Bucherer, the senior lea...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer Time+Tide
Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Aug 25, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer

As if Rolex needed anymore speculation surrounding the brand, news broke that the Crown has acquired Bucherer – a multi-brand retailer with over 100 locations around the world, 53 of which distribute Rolex watches. But, before we dig into this big international news I first want to discuss something a closer to home. NOW Magazine … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

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TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Flies Aug 1, 2023

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue

A surefire way to know if a watch brand has a design that can withstand the test of time is instant recognizability. There’s no need to have the brand name positioned front and center because its unique styling and distinguishable silhouette are more than enough. From across the room, there’s no mistaking the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its square case, left-hand-drive crown and dual sub-register display immediately fires the synapses in our watch nerd brains. Throw in the Hollywood fame and a namesake that represents one of the most famous racing circuits in all of motorsports, then you have a watch that arguably cements its place on the Mount Rushmore of watches. The TAG Heuer Monaco remains as a platform for the brand to explore their avant garde ways, as well as to lean into their rich heritage and connection to motorsport across the world. With the latter in mind, TAG Heuer has announced the Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue inspired by French motorsport liveries. French racing blue can trace its presence on the racing grid back to race cars such as the CD Panhard LM64 and the Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix Racer to present day with the Alpine Endurance Team. The saturated shade of azure is now incorporated into the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph through its signature rounded-corner sub-register display. As a part of automotive color theory, designers are tasked with bringing inanimate objects to life and simultaneously making them look fast in the process. That’s a noticeable ...

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The new Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition is a charitable home run Time+Tide
Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition Jul 28, 2023

The new Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition is a charitable home run

The Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition uses the Big Crown Pointer Date 40mm as a framework with blue, red, and white colours inspired by his uniform It is a collaboration between Oris and The Hank Aaron Chasing the Dream Foundation, a US-based non-profit. The watch is limited to 2,297 pieces in honour of his still-standing … ContinuedThe post The new Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition is a charitable home run appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Jul 1, 2023

VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition?

Everyone was expecting Rolex to finally show some love to the Cellini line which, although by no means weak, just lost appeal as time went on. Not many expected the crown to show up to Watches & Wonders 2023 with a brand new collection however, which the Perpetual 1908 is the founding member of. As … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 Time+Tide
Accutron Spaceview Evolution Jun 4, 2023

The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020

New Accutron Spaceview Evolution is literally a twist on the Spaceview 2020 Movement orientation has shifted 30 degrees, offering a new dial aesthetic and crown placement at 2 o’clock  New decoration style for dial-side of the movement with “knurled” bridge detailing Accutron’s claim to fame is the fact that they were the first to offer … ContinuedThe post The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oris Celebrates their Anniversary with the Latest Hölstein Edition Release: An Aquis with a Bold Purple Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates their Anniversary Jun 2, 2023

Oris Celebrates their Anniversary with the Latest Hölstein Edition Release: An Aquis with a Bold Purple Dial

Every year, Oris releases a limited edition watch on June 1 to celebrate their birthday. These Hölstein Editions run the gamut: last year’s was a somewhat wild blast from the past, and the year before saw a sober but very attractive rendition of their popular Big Crown Pointer Date. This year, Oris is tackling the Aquis, which makes its Hölstein Edition debut. As you’d expect, being an anniversary edition, there are a handful of twists that separate this Aquis from others in the collection.  First, the obvious. This dial is purple, folks. I feel like I’ve been banging the purple drum for a long time. We’ve clearly reached a point, probably months ago, where this is the color of the moment. A look back at new releases over the last year or so reveals plenty of evidence that we’re in the midst of peak purple, and that’s totally fine by me, especially as we enter the summer months. But this is the first time I can recall seeing a purple dial from Oris, and it looks great on the Aquis. This is a platform that plays particularly well with color – the deep red (and diamond set) Aquis remains a Watches & Wonders favorite.  The purple theme is extended to the caseback, where instead of a typical exhibition window, we get a full color Oris bear, wearing his diving gear, against a bright purple background. You’ll also find the limited edition number as well as a “Hölstein Edition” designation on the caseback. Like the ProPilot X Kermit Edition released a few...

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The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak One May 17, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic

Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

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The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has Mar 31, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality

The new Oyster Perpetual Celebration is proof that the crown knows how to party Bubbly dials take on the colours of Stella-inspired OPs that sky-rocketed in popularity over the last few years Available in 31, 36 and 41 millimetre case sizes Rolex clearly tried to do their best to please as many of their fans … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration has a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces Mar 29, 2023

The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication

The Ulysee Nardin Freak ONE has surpassed its shock-factor roots and embraced beauty, The time is adjusted via the 5N gold bezel, negating the need for a traditional crown. Its train of wheels and flying tourbillon are all integrated into the minutes hand. Mechanical watchmaking has evolved drastically over the last few decades, which is … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE embraces and dresses-up the atypical complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces Mar 28, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial

The Patek Philippe 5224R is slated to be the ultimate travel Calatrava It pairs a slim micro-rotor calibre with a travel time complication and 24-hour display All the movement functions are operated via the crown via a patented system The travel time has become somewhat of a Patek Philippe signature over the years, with the … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces the Calatrava 5224R with a 24-hour dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer 40 showcases Mar 27, 2023

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case

The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 Time+Tide
Seiko introduces Mar 17, 2023

GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385

Many new releases from Seiko rely on inspiration from the brand’s rich back catalogue, and the case of the new Prospex GMT 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation follows that trend. Basing their design on the 6159-7001 reference that followed the very first dive watch from Seiko, the 62MAS, the 1968 Diver’s GMT features the 4 o’clock crown, … ContinuedThe post GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Say Hello to the Highly Capable Nodus Sector Deep Worn & Wound
Nodus Feb 27, 2023

Say Hello to the Highly Capable Nodus Sector Deep

Nodus started teasing out the continuation of their Sector Series early last month. With some early indications as to what we were in store for – a dual bezel display, southpaw crown stance, and a dial reading “500” potentially alluding to the water resistance rating. I assumed the latter would hold true given the appropriate name of Nodus’ latest release: the Sector Deep. The Sector Deep heavily concentrates on the keystone features in what constitutes as a legitimate dive watch. I’m talking about outstanding legibility, a case intentionally designed for comfort, and seamless functionality. We’ve seen dive watches before from the determined brand based out of California, but nothing like the Sector Deep. It’s completely novel, and their most, dare I say, professional watch to date. The Nodus Sector Deep is capable of going where its name says it can go – deep below the ocean’s surface. More specifically, 500 meters. That’s 1,640 feet for those who need the conversion and for additional perspective, that’s proximal to the height of New York City’s Freedom Tower underwater and right in the thick of the ocean’s water column. Now I know most of us won’t even come close to using up a fraction of that depth rating. Actually, I think I could speak for most of our readership (barring any certified SCUBA divers out there) when I say that we’re pretty much only concerned with the first few meters below the surface, but it’s amusing to know that the w...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...

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Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Oct 16, 2022

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed

The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...

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