Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Surprisingly Light TAG Heuer Aquaracer 200 Solargraph
Where doomsday prepper meets Dimes Square hypebeast.
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Revolution
Talking Grail Watch 2 at Franck Muller Watchland Part 2
On his visit to Franck Muller Watchland, Wei meets with Head of Design, Jean-Loup Glénat to discuss the finer design details of Grail Watch 2. We are immensely proud to have partnered with Franck Muller to revive these iconic chronographs to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the brand!
SJX Watches
Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre
Watchmakers have long embarked on collaborations with artists, from Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and his Brâncuşi-inspired designs for Patek Philippe to the Zen creations by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando for Bulgari. Such collaborations are amongst the best ways for a watch brand to broaden its appeal. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has been exploring such relationships with “Made of Makers”, an initiative made up of collaborations with varied designers and artisans from other disciplines, including mixologist Matthias Giroud and the Michelin-starred pastry chef Nina Métayer. Its latest partnership is with Spanish typographer and illustrator Alex Trochut, who has penned a font specifically for the brand, the 1931 Alphabet. Alex Trochut Initial thoughts On its face, this might sound like the typical artistic collaboration embarked upon by a watchmaker. But this has a subtle twist in engaging with watch enthusiasts as it’s all about personalisation of the watch. The 1931 Alphabet can transform a stock Reverso into something unique and something that would not be out of place Jay Gatsby’s wrist. It’s a prime example of typography as a decorative art in watchmaking. The attention to detail in the font design is evident in the kerning of the letters, which includes the use of negative space to create balance. The 1931 Alphabet Given this typeface’s strikingly bold design, it is a perfect pair for the Reverso. Since its introduction in 1931, the model has evolve...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Seeing Is Believing With The Mirrored Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Special Edition
Swiss watchmaking meets Italian design meets Japanese architecture.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10?
OK, let’s cut to the chase here. The Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD is going to sell out fast. Online sales begin on July 20, but if you want to get your mitts on one then don’t hang about. Remember, if you will, the first time these two brands collaborated together on the Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Three Incredible Vintage Watches from Brands You Love | IN THE METAL
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante, Now In Platinum
A king among complications meets the ice queen of metals.
Hodinkee
Inside The Design: Lust For the Must
Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar
Sport watch meets high-complication.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex Day-Date 40mm In Platinum With Fluted Bezel
Heavy metal meets heavy hitter.
Hodinkee
Introducing: We're Ready To Talk About The Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch
The quintessential space watch meets the respected affordable Swiss brand in the hands-down most exciting collaboration of this young year.
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An Extremely Rare Tudor ROYAL & More | In The Metal
SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
Hodinkee
Steal Vs. Splurge: High-Climbing White-Dial Sport Watches From Rolex And Timex
Grab your mitts, I'm in a polar state of mind.
Hodinkee
Grails: I Finally Found My Holy Grail Watch. Here’s Why I Didn’t Buy It.
A decade-long search takes me all the way to Thailand - and meets a surprising end.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal
Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy…
Following another COVID-blighted year, we’ve all learned to appreciate certain aspects of life that lockdown deprived us of. The joy of things like pub gardens, schools being open and vaguely regular haircuts. But the most sorely missed of all was the life-affirming pleasure of catching up with old mates. All of which made last night’s … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Rolex Datejusts, a Universal Geneve Polerouter, & Federico's Omega Chronostop | IN THE METAL
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater – Two Faces, One Voice
An enduring classic of watch design meets a classic complication.
SJX Watches
Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver
The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...
Hodinkee
In House: The New HODINKEE x Crown & Caliber Collection
New York meets Atlanta.
SJX Watches
Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition
Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...
Video
Rolex Day-Date, Buckley Datejust, Oyster Precision, & more!! | IN THE METAL
Quill & Pad
Alain Silberstein x Philippe Lebru KB2 Clock (Video)
A collaboration between renowned watch designer Alain Silberstein and the founder and director of the Utinam Besançon clock manufacture, Philippe Lebru, this imposing, colorful timekeeper meets the eye and runs away with it.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”
Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case. Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement. Initial thoughts A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart. The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run. This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit. And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris' Top Tier Diver With (Finally!) An In-House Movement
The Cal. 400 meets the AquisPro.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold
The MP-11 gets the Magic Gold Midas touch.
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye: When Less Is More
Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.
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