Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot's Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition 'Mission Accomplished'
G-IRTY says goodbye with a spiffy Spitfire tribute watch.
734 articles · 51 videos found · page 14 of 27
Hodinkee
G-IRTY says goodbye with a spiffy Spitfire tribute watch.
Hodinkee
There an Omega with a titanium movement, some shared love of old-school photography, and even a covert military operation. This week's got it all.
Revolution
Revolution’s Joy Corthésy visits the team behind Jaquet Droz’s incredible métiers d’arts pieces, who set out to keep traditional techniques alive with a playful twist.
Explorer and guide Adrian Ballinger knows the importance of an accurate timepiece on the mountain.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Developed by the TAG Heuer Lab, in close collaboration with Vaucher, the new chronograph, with TH-Carbonspring, COSC-Certification, 5Hz balance, and more, is one of the brand's proudest achievements yet.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors TAG Heuer flexes their chronograph muscles with a new mechanism built with flexible components, fully developed by TAG Heuer LAB. This new movement is now released in the Monaco Collection as the Evergraph. Press Release information with commentary in italics. WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph is revealed with [...] The post WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Hodinkee
The result of over a decade of work at the TAG Heuer Lab, the "TH-Carbonspring" is a new oscillator that relies on carbon rather than silicon – and it will soon be available in a pair of limited edition models.
Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Worn & Wound
Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era. The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...
SJX Watches
Panerai’s origins lie in highly luminous dive watches for the Italy’s Marina Militare – and its signature models are named after luminescence – and the brand’s latest continues that tradition. Equipped with a miniature lighting system, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is the fourth of Panerai’s LAB-ID “concept” watches. The PAM01800 is powered by a movement with twin mainsprings, and the lighting module having four mainsprings of its own for 30 minutes of illumination. Initial thoughts Amongst Panerai’s recent launches, the PAM01800 is the most interesting both in terms of technology and relevance to the brand’s history. Though such lighting systems have been done before by Van Cleef & Arpels and De Bethune, the one inside the PAM01800 is more advanced, being brighter as well as having a longer power reserve, up to 30 minutes of illumination in fact. And it is a fitting nod to vintage Panerai watches that were generously lumed pocket watches modified for the wrist. At 49 mm, the PAM01800 is slightly ridiculous in size, and almost the same size as the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, but not far from the dimensions of historical Panerai watches. However, the PAM01800 is expensive at CHF92,800. Despite the interesting technology, the price feels ambitious, particularly since Panerai never really had durable success with its highest end offerings. Motor-driven lume A project that took some eight years to complete according to the brand, the PAM01800 was devel...
Deployant
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...
Teddy Baldassarre
We've all heard of "dressing for success," and the sage advice on dressing for "the job you want, not the job you have." These wardrobe rules of thumb also apply to the watch one wears to go to work, whether your workplace is a corporate office, a restaurant kitchen, a science lab, an aircraft cockpit or anywhere in-between. Here we've listed 20 occupations and suggested a proper timepiece for each. The list is, of course, quite subjective, so please feel free to add your own alternatives in the comments. We'll likely be updating this list regularly, so if you've got an occupation that's not covered here, plus an idea of the perfect watch for it, do chime in with that as well. Bank CEO: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R ($31,940) A corner-office executive needs a watch that projects understated style as well as classical luxury, and perhaps no brand embodies that ethos better than Patek Philippe, which recently added a hobnail “Clous de Paris” bezel, first used on the classic Ref. 3919, to its iconic Calatrava (Ref. 6119R). The watch comes in at 39mm in either rose gold or white gold - larger than its 36mm predecessors but still elegantly sized and also very thin at just over 8mm high. The harmoniously balanced, creamy white dial - with Roman hour numerals on the rose-gold model, gray-to-black with applied indexes on the white-gold - features a recessed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a railroad minute track on the periphery. Inside is Patek Phil...
Hodinkee
TAG Heuer is shaking up the established order of things with its radical use of lab-grown diamonds.
Revolution
Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, discuss TAG Heuer’s new Plasma timepieces. The star timepiece is the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon, which is 44mm in case size and has 124 lab-grown diamonds. Alongside a few other Carrera timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 such […]
SJX Watches
MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...
Quill & Pad
To this day, when most people think about luxury watches they picture a wizened, white-haired man in a white lab coat bent over a workbench against the backdrop of snowy Alps busily filing away at watch parts. It’s a lovely picture, but not very representative of the modern – or even necessarily traditional – watch industry as Elizabeth Doerr explains here.
Time+Tide
To be honest with you, I’ve been dying to match up the fresh popping colours of our new Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT2. Made in collaboration with George Bamford at his secret lab, the Bamford Watch Department, it’s a real black beauty that fizzes with bright accents and sporty energy. But what are the perfect … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: Adidas meets the Bamford x Time+Tide GMT2 to brighten the gloom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept line can easily be not just confusing, but confounding when you first come across it. The case shape is so alien … who is it even made for? When the first Concept was released in 2002, it more resembled a piece of lab equipment from a sci-fi movie than a watch, … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is about as avant-garde as Switzerland gets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Three years ago, Panerai introduced the LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days PAM 700, an experimental watch boasting carbon-based innovations inside and out, including ceramic bridges and plates that do away with jewelled bearings as well as a dial coated in carbon nanotubes giving it an absolute black finish. But the LAB-ID was truly experimental, and word has it that only a handful were sold and the planned 50-piece run was never completed. But no doubt due to the popularity of the LAB-ID’s design – and unpopularity of the €50,000 price tag – Panerai has just announced the Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm (PAM01661). It’s essentially a smaller, simpler LAB-ID, featuring a case in the same material, as well as blue lume on the dial and hands, but with a straightforward automatic movement without any of the bells and whistles found in the LAB-ID. The Luminor Marina Carbotech 44 mm Depth rated to 300 m, the case is made of Carbotech, a carbon fibre-reinforced polymer produced by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibres at high pressure with a high-end polymer (PEEK), explaining the wave-like appearance of the material. The result is a material that is light and strong, explaining why the large, 44 mm case weighs just 96 grammes, less than half the same case in steel. The LAB-ID of 2017 The watch has a standard Panerai dial, but in the colours of the LAB-ID. Like most Panerai dials, it has a “sandwich” construction, where the hour markers are cut-outs that r...
WatchAdvice
The future of watchmaking for Zenith can be narrowed down to one word: Defy. The Defy collection started with the release of the Defy El Primero 21 back in 2017, which was the quite amazing hundredth-of-a-second chronograph. This was followed by the first-generation Defy Lab (known now as Defy Inventor), which Zenith states is the world’s most accurate watch with its new ground-breaking monocrystalline silicon oscillator. Luckily enough, we had a chance to review the Zenith Defy Inventor as well, which you can check out here. Zenith has added a mini collection of three ceramic models to the Defy Classic range. The models in the Defy Classic Collection has a three-hand plus date feature and comes in three colour variations: White ceramic, Black ceramic and Blue ceramic. The piece we have on our hands today is the elegant Defy Classic Blue Ceramic. Having a colour outside of the typical white and black in a ceramic, which is the norm, definitely brings something different to the table. Although the colour blue may have its limitations with what it can be worn with, compared to all black and white ceramic watches. Despite this limitation, the blue ceramic certainly is an eye-catcher when on the wrist. Like the other two models in the Zenith Defy Classic Ceramic range, the blue ceramic comes with its own matching blue rubber strap. Sometimes having too much of the same colour throughout the watch can be too “in your face” as well. The blue used by Zenith for this cera...
Deployant
Zenith released a new first in watchmaking technology, with the 100th of a second chronograph named DEFY El Primero 21 – which began in 2017. The same year, Zenith unveiled DEFY Lab, an ‘archetype’ regulated by a revolutionary oscillator developed by the Manufacture and issued in a 10- piece limited edition.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: If I look a little flustered and stiff in this video, it’s because I’m not entirely comfortable when I’m invited to get a lab coat on in a watch manufacture. Too many times, humiliation has followed. I don’t come at watches from a technical perspective, and that’s largely because I don’t have that kind of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A five-minute crash course on how a tourbillon works and what it’s comprised of appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zenith focus the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero. We begin with the Zenith Defy Inventor – the commercial edition of the Defy Lab launched in 2017 which we have covered in detail. Case size 44mm in titanium case and aeronity bezel. The frequency is increased from 15Hz to 18Hz. Now triple certified: Chronometer CertifiedRead More
Time+Tide
Following on from Felix’s crystal ball gazing, Sandra looks into the (not-too-distant) future and ponders just what surprises (or not) Baselworld 2019 might hold … Expect to see: A regular production Defy Lab from Zenith I’m expecting to see Zenith’s oscillator technology of Defy Lab in a series-production collection. It’s a great technical breakthrough that … Continued
Horological Machine Nº9 “Flow” is as disruptive a piece as ever emerged from the creative lab of MB&F;, and the craziest thing about it isn’t even something that you notice right away.
Time+Tide
Since the launch of the Defy 21 last year, and the shockingly innovative Defy Lab later in 2017, it wasn’t a matter of speculation that more releases for the new collection were coming to Baselworld in 2018. The new Zero G is this year’s Halo watch from the brand as we wait for the groundbreaking … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero Zero G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We caught up with industry icon, Jean-Claude Biver recently in Tokyo Japan where he presided over the Asian launch of the Zenith El Primero Defy Lab.
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