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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.
Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case SJX Watches
Hublot Combines May 6, 2024

Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case

A perfect illustration of Hublot’s extravagant style and technical proficiency, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire boasts 336 hours of power reserve thanks to seven laterally stacked barrels working with 90° bevel gears and a helical worm screw to drive the movement. This is a new variant of an existing model, with the difference being the case crafted from transparent “water blue” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Hublot is an anomaly. It’s one of the 20 biggest watchmakers in Switzerland by revenue and boasts a vertically integrated manufactured but is often criticised for being something of a “fashion” brand by enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike. Part of this pushback probably stems from the brand’s entry-level watches that use inexpensive stock movements that are priced expensively for what they are. The mechanics don’t live up to the price. That reasoning is sound, but it doesn’t reflect the brand’s top-of-the-line products. Like the recent MP-10, the new MP-11 reflects Hublot’s ability in movements and materials. Its manufacture develops and produces complex in-house calibres with unique complications and novel constructions, usually presented in cases made of novel materials with distinctive aesthetics and properties. The only downside of such complications is their size. The MP-11 is enormous at 45 mm in diameter, and it isn’t even the chunkiest watch that Hublot produces. This limits its wearability and ...

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Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Apr 9, 2024

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition

Montblanc has just released the limited-edition 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. This latest release blends the spirit of mountain exploration, a tribute to the historical Minerva pocket watches and chronographs designed in the 1920s and 1930s for military purposes, with cutting-edge technology that has continued to define the Montblanc brand in recent releases.  The hallmark of this new model is its innovative case material, CARBO2, created through an eco-conscious process that transforms CO2 captured from bio-gas and mineral waste into a durable composite when mixed with carbon fiber. This pioneering material not only sets a new standard in sustainable luxury watchmaking but also boasts a striking dark hue that perfectly complements the adventurous essence of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. The watch’s dial, inspired by glacial textures, is crafted using the gratté-boisé technique for an intricate effect that mirrors the complexity of ice crystals. The dial is complemented by white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, a white luminescent dual time hand, and luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with blue Greenwich meridians. It is this set of small details that show the precision and focus of Montblanc with their luxury-end watches. In fact, one extremely intriguing feature is the side engraving of Mont Blanc Mountain, visible only to the wearer, which glows luminously i...

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Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience Worn & Wound
Oris Updates Apr 9, 2024

Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience

This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that.  Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...

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Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case Fratello
Omega 30T2 Mar 11, 2024

Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case

Today, we’ll take a closer look at a fascinating watch that I recently purchased at auction. As we’ll see, the watch brings together several notable details that separate it from other 30T2 models from the period. It was a gamble, but it has turned out to be a rewarding one thus far. I don’t often […] Visit Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case to read the full article.

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Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon SJX Watches
Urwerk inspired Project 1 Barrelhand Feb 22, 2024

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon

Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1  mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...

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The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 GMT They also Feb 5, 2024

The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT

For the past 15 years, UK based Schofield Watch Company has been making watches using the same case shape and dimensions, with various color and finishing details. For 2024 they are launching a brand-new case and size, as well as a new complication. Introducing the Light, a field watch with a GMT function, which retains Schofield’s design esthetics, but at a size that should appeal to today’s sensibilities.  There are two models within the Light collection. Both feature a two-piece 40mm media-blasted case with a vertically brushed bezel, and the movement powering them is the relatively new Seiko NH34 GMT. They also have domed box sapphire crystals and case backs that feature lighthouse artwork printed on a mineral glass, through which you can see parts of the movement.   The aptly named The Light One, has a light gray step dial that features a cream outer ring with black printed numerals. The hour and minute hands are painted dark for contrast, with a light colored 24hr GMT lollipop hand turning within the inner stepped portion. The Dark One, in contrast, has a darker gray center dial, with a black stepped ring and white numerals. The main hands are light gray, the lollipop GMT hand is dark gray, and the case is entirely coated in black PVD. The text, branding and logo on the dials are very discreetly printed and there is no 24hr track, which makes reading the second time zone a little challenging. Therefore, a little commitment to understanding how to read the GMT ...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More Fratello
Rolex Watches - Featuring Feb 2, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will take a look at some oddball Rolex models. For this list, we selected five wonderfully strange cult classics. Some have a different dial that sets them apart from their regular counterparts, and some are unique models. If you are a Rolex fan, you will know about […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More to read the full article.

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The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces Nov 21, 2023

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material

I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment.  Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...

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The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Legend Diver Nov 16, 2023

The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case

The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification.  Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...

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An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW299 Full disclosure I Nov 12, 2023

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299

Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Oct 16, 2023

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility.  The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...

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HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings Sep 3, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection

Panerai are generally not a brand to depart from their established successes, usually riffing around the same ideas for years with subtle tweaks and colour options. That’s not a bad thing by any means, as the jumbo-sized cushion case watches are as iconic as they come. However, every now and again, they break some new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback

It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The New Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute to the Deep Blue Sea with Spiral-Cut Sapphire Bezel Anchored by Hardened Titanium Case and Bracelet Worn & Wound
Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute Jul 21, 2023

The New Casio Oceanus Pays Tribute to the Deep Blue Sea with Spiral-Cut Sapphire Bezel Anchored by Hardened Titanium Case and Bracelet

The Oceanus might be the last thing you think about when you hear the brand name, Casio. Their elevated range of watches aren’t built with the familiar tough resin case accompanied by a soft urethane band and a digital display. Instead, Casio has elected to encase the Oceanus with titanium paired with distinguishable features that stray away from the utilitarian feel while still integrating their technological know-how in a more analog fashion. In short, this concept is what Casio refers to as, “Elegance, Technology”. The four latest additions include a limited reference and three regular production models that harness the dynamic cerulean hues of the ocean packaged in a coated titanium case and equipped with a suite of familiar features. Like the Manta S500 Series, the Oceanus OCWS6000SW2A takes the bezel and uses it as a canvas to uniquely represent the various features of the ocean. This limited production model in particular displays the movement of the ocean with a spiral-cut sapphire bezel representing the crest and trough of a traveling wave. The blue gradient of the bezel also gives the impression of the continuous motion of the ocean. Although masked by color, the sapphire bezel still allows light to penetrate through, powering the solar panel fixed beneath. As mentioned above, the case is constructed out of titanium and coated with a carbide treatment giving a powdery, sandblasted effect across the non-polished areas. Another distinguishable feature of the ...

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The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2023

The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal

Sapphire is one of the most exotic materials for a watch case these days. Notorious for being incredibly hard to work with, the material has yet to appear in more affordable models; however, ArtyA is on the right track with their new sporty summer release, the AquaSaphir. ArtyA is a small independent brand from Switzerland, … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

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Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI May 25, 2023

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case

Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out.  The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK Time+Tide
Breitling showcases Apr 28, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK

Jumping right into another edition of the FWD, Breitling hosted a top event at Melbourne’s Dutton Garage for their Top Time line of chronographs. Inspired by iconic American cars, the Top Time pieces sat next to their respective inspirations – the Mustang, Corvette, Cobra and Thunderbird.   View this post on Instagram   A post … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Breitling showcases the Top Time among automotive royalty, Naoya Hida presents a new case, URWERK remain URWERK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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