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RM 001 Richard Mille

Richard Mille's 2001 inaugural reference. Platinum tonneau tourbillon, 17 pieces, developed with APRP.

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 5, 2024

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024

After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...

Breaking Down The Brand Longines: Strength And Weakness In Numbers Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Mar 30, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Longines: Strength And Weakness In Numbers

When looking at last year’s turnover numbers, Longines is the #7 luxury watch brand in the world. You all know who’s leading the pack, but did you know that Longines, with a turnover of CHF 1.11 billion, is in between Haute Horlogerie houses Richard Mille in the #6 spot and Vacheron Constantin in the #8 […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Longines: Strength And Weakness In Numbers to read the full article.

News – H. Moser & Cie. Enters an Unexpected Global Partnership with Alpine Motorsports Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 1, 2024

News – H. Moser & Cie. Enters an Unexpected Global Partnership with Alpine Motorsports

The connection between watches and motorsport has been around for decades, specifically in Formula 1 where almost every team has signed a partnership with a prestigious watch brand. IWC and Mercedes AMG, Ferrari and Richard Mille, Aston Martin and Girard-Perregaux… And all of them bringing to the table dedicated timepieces. As the 2024 Formula 1 […]

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5004R Sep 27, 2023

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

Greubel Forsey Goes Big with Smaller Sports Watches SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Goes Big Jul 21, 2023

Greubel Forsey Goes Big with Smaller Sports Watches

Historically known for its oversized, over-complicated watches, Greubel Forsey appears to be taking a step in a different direction as its resizes two of its bestselling sports watches, the Balancier Convexe S2 and Double Balancier Convexe. The Convexe duo are now thinner and smaller, while retaining the same ovoid form with a curved profile that characterises the brand’s sports watches. While the difference in case size between the earlier models and the new pair is worth noting, the downsizing is arguably more significant in its implications for the direction of the brand, which also recently announced an expansion to its sloping, glass-box manufacture. The Double Balancier Convexe (left), and Balancier Convexe S2 Initial thoughts  A reduction in size from Greubel Forsey is rather unexpected since its watches have traditionally been unashamedly large. To be fair, the brand utilised the large cases well to best display the complex movements and expert finishing. However, the extra-large watches, along with typically hefty price tags, have always placed the brand in a niche of its own – not only did buyers need the means to buy a six-figure watch, but also have the wrist circumference to pull it off.  While we have seen a shift in taste over the last couple of years towards decreasing case diameters, Greubel Forsey and its peer in the same price range, namely Richard Mille, had seemed immune to the change – or simply resistant. So, while the seemingly innocuous red...

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion Jul 10, 2023

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion

Greubel Forsey has revealed plans for a significant expansion of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Set to nearly triple the current size of the distinctive, sloping building, the CHF20 million project signals a broader strategic move for the brand as it seeks a larger share of the high-end sports watch sector. The expansion, scheduled to commence next year, will not only increase Greubel Forsey’s research and development capacity and provide additional amenities for guests and staff, but it will also enable the brand to increase production. This move aligns with the brand’s recent shift from producing mainly complex tourbillon watches to introducing simpler, sportier watches that target the segment dominated by Richard Mille. In addition to the expansion, the brand is poised to launch its eighth “Fundamental Invention” this year.  Nearly tripling in size The manufacture expansion is a key pillar of chief executive Antonio Calce’s ten-year vision for growing the brand and professionalising its operations. According to Mr Calce, the expansion will enable Greubel Forsey to pursue “ever greater creativity and excellence in hand finishing.” Antonio Calce The planned expansion of the manufacture is ambitious; the floorplan is set to nearly triple in size, from 2,000 m2 to 5,460 m2. Fortunately, the expansion will not alter the current building’s recognisable architecture of a glass box rising out of the grass. Instead, the expansion will build on and around...

Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Jul 3, 2023

Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors

With the recent retirements of tennis superstars Roger Federer (Rolex) and Serena Williams (Audemars Piguet), and with veterans like Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille) on the back nine of their careers, watch brands have been snapping up next-gen talent. At the start of the 2023 Wimbledon tournament, here’s a look at some of the tennis young … ContinuedThe post Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 4100BA Apr 24, 2023

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction

Christie’s kicks off the spring auction season with Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, a 136-lot sale taking place entirely online. Featuring a diverse selection of watches, the sale by big-ticket items like a Richard Mille RM 69 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/111P with a sapphire-set bezel. But the sale also encompasses some unusual and interesting timepieces that are worth a second look, including the Richard Mille RM 36-01 with a G-force sensor and a Grand Seiko 8-Days produced by the same workshop responsible for the better-known Credor Eichi. Some lots are uniquely reflective of the Middle East: amongst them is the Gerald Genta Octo Mosaic with a perpetual calendar in Eastern-Arabic script and a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse gentleman’s set of a solid-gold lighter and cufflinks enamelled with the flag of Oman. A Royal Oak with the signature of Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai under 12 o’clock where the brand name typically is Watches Online: The Dubai Edit takes place online from April 24 to May 4. All the watches will be on show at the same time in the preview exhibition in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Christies.com. Lot 1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA “Sheikh Mohammed” One of the sale’s headline lots is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA that, from a distance, looks like an ordinary mid-sized version of the emblematic sports watch. But up close this exa...

The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee Apr 5, 2023

The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches

Boxer Amir Khan lost his bejewelled Franck Mueller. Formula One driver Lando Norris was forcibly relieved of his £400,000 Richard Mille. They were just two of the unfortunate victims of watch theft, the crime trend that has spiralled into an international epidemic. As crooks have become increasingly knowledgeable about the value of luxury watches, a … ContinuedThe post The fight against crime: Audemars Piguet offers new guarantee for stolen watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland… Time+Tide
Patek Philippe invariably make regular appearances May 2, 2022

You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland…

Top footballers have the financial muscle to indulge their wildest horological dreams. But I’m often surprised at how predictable their picks tend to be. When perusing the wrists of the stars of the Premier League or Serie A, the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe invariably make regular appearances while a Royal Oak or Richard Mille … ContinuedThe post You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 20, 2022

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction

A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie Dec 27, 2021

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021

A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R

At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Jun 14, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique

Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise Jun 12, 2021

Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise

Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.