491 articles · 96 videos found · page 14 of 20
Fratello
When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I’ll review these pieces and address the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Recently revived Genevan haute horlogerie brand Niton jumps into the jumping hours market with the Prima — one of the more refined high-end examples of the industry’s latest favourite complication. It features a bespoke, shaped calibre that proudly carries the Poinçon de Genève — true to its inspiration — and is packed with creative choices and features. Initial thoughts Not long ago it seemed like 2025 would go down as the year of the jump hour, but the trend was evidently just getting started. The Niton Prima exemplifies this ongoing trend with surprising elegance and historical fidelity. As a rule of thumb, I view revival brands with a degree of scepticism; I would prefer people make a name for themselves rather than buying one. However, the Niton Prima shows a clear understanding of — and passion for — the source material, so I am satisfied this is not a mere cash-grab. It doesn’t hurt that the watch is excellent inside and out, and while expensive in absolute terms, it is fairly priced for what you get. The movement deserves special mention as the source of much of the appeal, being a true shaped movement — a very handsome one at that — and a competent timekeeper. It is finely finished with a plethora of interesting and clever features, including hidden screws for joining the bridges and mainplate, a small seconds hand that stops itself at 60 after the crown is pulled, and a sonnerie au passage to enhance the sound of the jump hour. Another point i...
Fratello
Now you can get the characteristic features without the exorbitant price. Well, the Poinçon de Genève-certified Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel is hardly a cheap watch, but it is the gateway to the Roger Dubuis universe. And what a way to enter the world of hand-crafted high horology it is. With its 40 […] Visit Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
FVF Genève’s second model after the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, the FVF2 Intrepido Time & Day is a more concise and accessible watch. It’s essentially a familiar formula – time (plus day) and a hand-finished manual wind movement – the FVF2 nonetheless manages to stand out thanks to brand founder Franc Vila’s eye for design. Pictured here with a black mother of pearl dial, part of a five-piece edition, the FVF2 has a pleasing asymmetry. The movement is composed of intriguing geometric forms and quirky details like the square winding click, while also being traditionally decorated with generous bevelling and black polishing. The case is an unusual “unibody” construction where the base plate and case middle are one and the same Initial thoughts The FVF2 might seem like yet another time-only watch with a fancily decorated movement, and it is just that, but not quite. Its creator, Franc Vila, is an industry veteran rather than a newcomer, and is now making a comeback after rising and falling with his original brand some two decades ago. Unlike many recent calibres that try to do more with more, the FVF2 movement is more minimalist but has a recognisable style and artful details. The calibre is characterised by geometric forms that encompass finer elements like the winding click, while also retaining a clear classical bent with the prominent going train and finishing. The treatment for the titanium base plate requires superheated gases to create an oxide layer on t...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Anton Suhanov, member of the AHCI, presents the Flamingo, a debut of his “flaming balance” concept in a wristwatch equipped with a fully in-house calibre. Known for complex clocks, including multi-axis tourbillons and the award-winning St Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025), but also experimenting with wristwatches with […]
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Deployant
Review of the Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm Tuxedo Dial, Winner of the 2023 Challenge Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
Monochrome
Bremont‘s aviation-focused Altitude collection just added a new reference with a playful yet historically grounded collaboration: the Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat, created in partnership with Universal Products & Experiences. Why? It turns out that the cartoon character has a place in aviation culture, serving as a long-standing symbol of courage, humour, and good […]
SJX Watches
On the heels of its sold-out collaboration with Habring² back in December, Monochrome is back with a vintage-oriented monopusher chronograph in collaboration with Angelus. The Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (MdS5) is a subtle riff on the brand’s Chronographe Télémètre, which walked away with the Chronograph Prize at least year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Initial thoughts I had the chance to see the MdS5 on the wrist of Monochrome founder Frank Geelen during Dubai Watch Week, and the watch makes a statement with its compact proportions. In fact, it could almost pass for a vintage watch. While historical reissues are made in abundance, they are often unnecessarily up-sized to suit modern tastes. At just 37 mm, the MdS5 has a tidy footprint on the wrist, and the 9.25 mm case height makes for a low profile. Interestingly, the watch could actually be a little smaller, given the compact proportions of the La Joux-Perret A5000, a manually wound monopusher chronograph movement descended from a construction first developed at THA by independent watchmaking royalty, including François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. This lineage gives the movement cachet, though the La Joux-Perret movement is in reality a distant relation of the THA (and Jaquet) original. As a souscription series, as many as 20 pieces of the MdS5 will be made, assuming enough demand, with a non-refundable deposit due up front. The watch goes o...
Deployant
The king of collabs Manuel Emch strikes again! This time at Art Genève with artist Monica Bonvicini. Here is the watch to be known as NOT FOR YOU.
SJX Watches
The beginning of 2025 marked the 350th anniversary of the hairspring, the invention that made portable precision timekeeping possible. To commemorate the occasion, we published a series of deep dives covering the disputes around its invention, the evolution of spring materials over the years and the finer rules of forming Breguet overcoils. This final instalment examines isochronism. Some initial definitions and considerations A proper and universal definition of isochronism is: the property of an oscillatory system to maintain the same period of vibration despite variation in environmental factors. This implies that a vibrational system’s behaviour is inherent and external factors should not influence its frequency. A few basic terms help frame the discussion. The period, measured in seconds, is the time taken for the oscillator to travel from one extreme position, through equilibrium, and back again. Frequency, measured in Hertz, is the inverse of the period; a system with a constant period can serve as a stable timebase. The amplitude is the distance swept by the oscillator from the equilibrium point to its extreme position. In practical terms, when saying that a sprung balance has an amplitude of 330°, it means the balance wheel rotates a full 330° in one direction from its equilibrium point before swinging back. Figure I. Anatomy of a sinusoidal wave. In watchmaking parlance, isochronism means that an oscillator keeps the same period, regardless of its amplit...
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Monochrome
Fam Al Hut has quickly become one of the most talked-about independent watchmakers in the world, a rise underscored by their Möbius timepiece winning the prestigious Audacity Prize at the 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), otherwise known as the “Oscars of Watchmaking.” An accomplishment for any new entrant, Fam Al Hut’s rapid rise […]
Monochrome
The 2025 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has just unveiled the grand winner of this year’s awards ceremony, and the winner is a watch with a lot of sense. Often regarded as the Oscars of Watchmaking, the GPHG stands for a celebration of all things surrounding watchmaking. The jury has narrowed down […]
Monochrome
As every year, it is time for the watch industry to celebrate watchmaking, watchmakers and watches in general. The so-called 2025 Oscars of the Watchmaking industry, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève or GPHG 2025, is about to begin, and the best watches introduced during the year are about to be awarded. From time-only watches […]
Fratello
In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun. We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments! Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention. Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...
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In the world of watches, simplicity is frequently overlooked. But the new Brew Metric Lite is proof that petite doesn’t have to mean pared-down. With clean lines, charming proportions, and an unapologetically unisex design, it hits that rare balance of effortless style and everyday wearability. It’s not a trophy watch, it’s a companion-to coffee dates, late nights, and everything in between. The Metric Lite reimagines Brew’s signature style as something more universal-stripped back, but still unmistakably “Brew.” It’s an automatic three-hander with no gimmicks, just good design. The case is compact but confident, sliding under cuffs or over bare wrists with equal ease. And with a softened rectangular silhouette and muted dial tones, it’s simple yet stylish, fun yet formal, small yet substantial, refined yet relaxed. The post Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin sun, sapphire moon, Poinçon de Genève rising.The post Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art goes stargazing, paying tribute to the 12 zodiac signs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The watch market may be experiencing a relatively sluggish period, but that hasn’t stopped the revival and relaunch of several high-end brands. While the overall market may be quiet, the upper end is still going strong. Amidst this, Urban Jürgensen, the famed brand from Copenhagen, is now entering its third era. Daniel Roth and Universal […] Visit Urban Jürgensen - A Luxury Brand Revival Done Right to read the full article.
Fratello
Almost exactly one year ago, J&Berg;, a new Finnish brand, launched with its debut model, the B2. The watches were met with near-universal praise due to their looks, materials, and specifications. A clean, modern design that could only be described as Nordic seemed to be a crowd-pleaser. After the success of the initial references, the […] Visit The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors to read the full article.
Monochrome
After a hiatus of about a decade, independent watchmaker Breva Genève made a return to centre stage earlier this year. While its first stint in the industry is known for fascinatingly clever meteorological complications, the brand now heads into a different, more elegant direction. The Segreto di Lario, the Secret of Lake Como, wouldn’t look […]
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Monochrome
The ultra-thin, 3.7mm Calibre 98.01-L, certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and COSC, was the second developed by the Chopard manufacture and followed the groundbreaking Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, which was created in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani and laid the foundation for future movement development. The manually wound 98.01-L featured Chopard’s so-called Quattro technology: a […]
Fratello
In 2018, Krayon, the brand founded by independent watchmaker Rémi Maillat, won the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with its Everywhere watch. Four years later, Krayon bagged another GPHG award. That time, the complicated Anywhere won first prize in the Calendar and Astronomy category. With the new Krayon Anyday, a […] Visit Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Our managing editor, Nacho, asked us to choose our favorite vintage watches under €5K. First, we need to define what “vintage” means. There is no clear universal definition in the watch industry, but the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie once used 20 years or older as a guideline. To some purists, a vintage needs to […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex to read the full article.
Deployant
Ba111od, ever the disruptor has released their Chapter 7, now with their first chronometer-certified by Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
Monochrome
Each year, during the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (or in short, the GPHG), one brand always stands out because it wins so many awards: Van Cleef & Arpels. It might not have been the name you expected; however, if you look at the sheer number of awards it has won over the years, it […]
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