Results for Wandering Hours

Duke Ellington, the Cartier Tank à Guichets, and the Year of the Jump Hour

I’ve never bought a watch because it was worn by a celebrity. I generally don’t think that’s a wise reason to own a watch, and kind of goes against my general philosophy of collecting as an act of individual expression. Still, there are some watches where the association with a particular person either looms so incredibly large it’s impossible to ignore (the Paul Newman Daytona, I think, falls into this category), and others where the association may not be at the level of a household name, but is nonetheless fascinating and interesting. Duke Ellington and his preference for the Cartier Tank à Guichets falls into this category for me.  This is probably not the appropriate forum for an extended discourse on the importance of Duke Ellington to American music and culture, so we’ll do a short version. Ellington is universally regarded as one of the great American artists – he’s responsible for over 1,000 jazz compositions and was active over a 60 year period. Critics and experts in jazz and American music often mention him in the same breath as people like Mozart, which seems like a good place to be.  Duke Ellington, wearing a Tank a Guichets So, he’s one of the singular genius artists of his or any era. And, I dunno, it kinda seems like wearing the same watch as that guy would be pretty cool. From the time I started noticing watches on the wrists of notable people, the idea that the Tank à Guichets was Ellington’s choice has been a point of fascination. ...

Recommended Reading: The Hour Glass Releases "The Persistence of Time" – A Cinematic Exploration Of Independent Artisanal Watchmaking

Featuring insights from some of the best living watchmakers and experts, the video is the perfect weekend viewing for true lovers of horology.

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection

Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...

An all-new, 192-hour movement for the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day 5328G

Patek's classy Calatrava gets a big energy upgrade.The post An all-new, 192-hour movement for the Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day 5328G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition

The Gerald Charles brand was founded by the legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2000, with backing from the Zivani family. After the designer’s death in 2011, Federico Zivani set about reviving the brand and has since created a solid collection of watches around the idiosyncratic yet immediately recognisable Maestro case. Celebrating 25 years of the […]

First Look – Young Brand Beda’a Presents its Eclipse II, with Jumping Hour Display

Founded in 2016 by Qatari entrepreneur Hader Al Suwaidi, Beda’a was born from the vision that the Middle East region could be not just a market for luxury watches, but also a contributor to the industry. The brand’s trajectory is now shaped by engineer-designer Sohaib Maghnam acting as CEO and Chief Designer. Before joining Beda’a […]

Introducing – The New Maen x Nico Leonard Jumping Hour Limited Edition

For its latest limited-edition watch, Stockholm-based, Dutch-rooted microbrand Maen (known for its accessible watches) has partnered with Nico Leonard – a well-known Dutch YouTube watch man famous for his outspoken style. This collaboration, the Maen x Nico Leonard Jumping Hour, blends familiar design elements while making a historically significant complication accessible to a broader audience. […]

Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour

Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Jacob & Co. The World is Yours Dual Time Zone Tourbillon

One thing you could never accuse Jacob & Co. of is being boring. With some of the most extraordinary and extravagant timepieces on the market, Jacob & Co.’s watches are always spectacular visually and mechanically. The latest model is an evolution of the 2023 The World is Yours Dual Time Zone. Upgraded with a 30-second […]

Third time’s the charm for Second Hour with the new Mandala Mk3

The Australian microbrand iterates on its eye-catching and popular everyday wearer, strengthening its value proposition.The post Third time’s the charm for Second Hour with the new Mandala Mk3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale

When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...

Recommended Reading: Clear Your Calendar: Acquired's Epic Five-Hour History Of Rolex Has Arrived

The number one business podcast delivers the definitive story of one of watchmaking's – or the world's – most iconic brands.

Introducing: Louis Vuitton's Drag Hour Tambour Convergence Is Not A Drag At All

Referencing 100-year-old designs, LV's Convergence underlines the unification of Vuitton's watchmaking workshops.

Louis Vuitton Refines its Unique Jump Hour with the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection

Introducing – Japanese Watchmaker Otsuka Lotec Presents the No.5 KAI, With Satellite Hour Display

A not-so-young-brand that only appeared recently on the international scene and an independent watchmaker that we’ve named Japan’s new sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of watchmaker Jiro Katayama. Even though these watches are extremely hard to get outside of Japan (yes, that means pure JDM coolness), the brand has started to gain recognition and […]

Fears Unveils a Very Limited Version of the Brunswick Jump Hour for British Watchmakers’ Day

With the release of their Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour watch in 2024, Fears built on the already elegant jump hour platform that debuted with their Alliance 01, built in collaboration with Christopher Ward in 2023. Continuing this form, the Bristol-based company has announced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Edwardian Edition’ to celebrate British Watchmaker’s Day 2025. Limited to 10 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmaker’s Day event on Saturday, March 8th, the Edwardian Edition features much of the same elegance as its predecessors, albeit with a few special details. The full-polished sterling silver case-Fears’ second such case in 100 years-wears a London Assay Hallmark, Fears’ own maker’s mark, and a flawless diamond-set crown, while the strap sports a matching sterling silver buckle. Like the original Brunswick Jump Hour, the Edwardian Edition is powered by the Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, which features automatic winding and a 38-hour power reserve.  What sets the Edwardian Edition apart, though, is the stunning, hand-polished white lacquer dial, which features numerals and a Fears’ logo derived from the brand’s Edwardian-era pocket watches; a hand-varnished and diamond-cut glossy black minute hand pops against the multi-layer lacquer. In addition to the dial, an exclusive heritage-inspired hour disc and a maple red Alcantara strap (lined with English Tan calf leather) further elevate the Edwardian Edition. Each watch ...

New silver-cased Fears Jump Hour Edwardian Edition to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day in March

It's only the second Fears watch in a silver case in a century, its uniqueness marked by a diamond in the crown.The post New silver-cased Fears Jump Hour Edwardian Edition to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day in March appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon

While Tim Mosso has seen watches with long power reserves, huge power reserves, and absurd power reserves, the result always looked as outwardly awkward as it was technically adept. Every watch he has encountered with a power reserve beyond ten days was massive. But the Haute-Rive Honoris 1 is a compact marvel through clever design.

6 of the best jump hour watches that make time-telling easier and cooler

Complicate the movement to simplify time-telling.The post 6 of the best jump hour watches that make time-telling easier and cooler appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

The Second Hour Sattelberg Mk2 returns to the field, this time in style

Melbourne's Second Hour introduces swanky updates to its Sattelberg field watch.The post The Second Hour Sattelberg Mk2 returns to the field, this time in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on – Jump for Joy with the Largely Handmade Dingemans Jumping Hour Watch

Just a couple of weeks ago, we brought a very interesting Dutch watchmaker to your attention: Fred Dingemans. Through his eponymous brand, dingemans mechanische horloges (Dingemans Mechanical Watches), Fred offers a true slice of artisanal watchmaking, with a lot of work done by one man, by hand. While his three-hander in bronze was already quite […]

Introducing: The SpaceOne x Perpétuel Gallery Jump Hour Limited Edition (Live Pics)

The Kickstarter darling has become a full-fledged brand with some serious watchmaking chops behind it.

The Gorgeous Hardstone Dials of the Hublot Classic Fusion Elements II Special Edition for The Hour Glass

Fears Introduces the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with a Module by Christopher Ward

Back in January 2023, Fears and Christopher Ward collaborated on the Alliance 01, the first limited edition watch made specifically for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. The watch became an immediate cult sensation, partly due to its unusual jump hour complication, and partly because it was just plain rare, right from the start. The watch was only available to members of the Alliance, a smaller group for sure than the typical audience for either brand. But when a watch like this appears, something with a highly specific complication that also strikes a chord with the community, we know that it’s only a matter of time before a version comes along that’s more widely accessible. Well, that time is now. Today, Fears introduces what they refer to as an evolution of the Alliance 01, the all new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour.  At its core, this is still very much the watch that we saw back in early 2023. It keeps the 40.5mm Brunswick case, a cushion case design that splits the difference nicely between sporty and something more refined. I happen to own a Brunswick, and find that the case is something of a chameleon – on the right strap it feels like a true dress watch, and on a bracelet, worn casually, it has an almost Datejust-like quality, which is to say it’s right in the middle of that dress/sport spectrum.  But the real heart of the watch is Christopher Ward’s module, also carried over from the Alliance 01, that allows for the jumping hour complication. ...