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Quill & Pad
The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 12th of November. Follow the big night on Quill & Pad and let us know your thoughts on the winners (and losers) in the comments.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Aiguille d’Or as “. . . rewarding the best overall watch among all the categories (best in show), also deemed the most representative of the watch industry as a whole. It is the most prestigious award.” In this last GPHG prediction discussion of the 2021 edition, our panel reveals who we think might win the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's big prize.
Deployant
Laco introduces a new heritage Pilot watch - the München Erbstück, complete with namesake heirloom patina baked right into the case and dial.
Time+Tide
When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the most sought after complications by buyers is the GMT, a watch that can track two or more time zones on the wrist. With complication though can come cost, especially when we enter the realm of big-name luxury brands. But there are exceptions to the rule, and TAG Heuer has just proven this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
"Small Daytona," big vintage energy.
SJX Watches
With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...
Quill & Pad
When Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 in 2019, Martin Green wasn't a big fan. But he had a completely different reaction when he first set eyes on the attractive and efficient BR 05 GMT. The extra hand with red-tipped luminous arrow and a chapter ring with 24-hour indices made all the difference for him.
Hodinkee
A jewel tone pilot from Switzerland's enfant terrible.
Revolution
Last week Daniel Craig made his final big screen debut as Bond in No Time To Die. And, along for the ride was (in addition to that exceptional Anderson & Sheppard pink velvet tuxedo) was, of course, Omega.
Time+Tide
When it comes to big-screen cameos, Hamilton is in a class of their own. From movies like Interstellar and Tenet to television shows like Jack Ryan, the brand holds the record for the most watches featured on screen. Today, however, Hamilton breaks into a new medium in a partnership with game developer Ubisoft. This marks the first-ever branded watch-integration for a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tutima has one leg in the realm of fine watchmaking and the other firmly placed in its lower to mid-priced Grand Flieger collection, composed of German pilot-style watches. Bhanu Chopra visited the Tutima manufacture in Glashütte, Germany for a closer look at how this duality works and what role it plays in the company's history.
Hodinkee
A familiar partnership gets a new look for a big anniversary.
Hodinkee
These five steel watches have one big advantage over the signature Nautilus: They're all still available.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it comes to big-screen cameos, Hamilton is in a class of their own. From movies like Interstellar and Tenet to television shows like Jack Ryan, the brand holds the record for the most watches featured on screen. Today, however, Hamilton breaks into a new medium in a partnership with game developer Ubisoft. This marks the first-ever branded … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton x Far Cry®6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As we have seen with the success of our Don’t Feed the Hype series, there is a strong hunger for more unique and different horological creations. The usual suspects have had their moment, with constant impressions to the mass marketplace. Don’t get me wrong, these big name brands continue to deliver quality products. But it … ContinuedThe post Goldsmith & Complications celebrates boutique opening with horological sculpture collab with the Chicago Cubs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of the big introductions of 2015 in the collector’s world was A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: a watch that both shows and chimes off the time using a “decimal” format of hours, tens of minutes, and minutes rather than the more traditional hours, quarters (15 minutes), and minutes. But the first decimal repeating wristwatch to reach the market wasn’t the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. It was by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Deployant
Overall we enjoyed the look and feel of the watch. It brought to mind Omega's Speedmaster and its calendar sibiling. Or even more distant, IWC's Ingenier or GST calendar. The contrasting materials and colors gave the watch a sporty look, and the size came with substantial wrist presence. The downside of course, is a rather hefty sports watch more suited for those with thicker wrists.
Hodinkee
AP went big.
Quill & Pad
“The M2 Pioneer is a pilot’s watch,” Gustavo Calzadilla, Tutima’s U.S. president, stressed to Chris Malburg, explaining that it was not meant to be a diver’s watch. “True,” he countered. “But how often do watch fans ever get into the cockpit or strap on a scuba tank and jump into an 30-degree, gin-clear lagoon?” And that is just what Chris did. Dive in with him right here!
Hodinkee
It's a big watch, but hey, it's a big planet.
SJX Watches
Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...
Quill & Pad
While the last 18 months have wreaked havoc on the big (and not so big) watch fairs – and everything else – there have been two rays of horological sunshine in the last couple of years: in November 2019 (just months before COVID-19 hit) the biannual Dubai Watch Week took place, which was bigger and better than ever. And then in August 2020 the inaugural Geneva Watch Days was held during a lull in the pandemic and it was superb. Here Ian Skellern explains why these two fairs have become his favorites.
Revolution
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition celebrates the landmark achievements of Botswana’s aeromedical rescue organization
Time+Tide
We’ve all heard the line “Does my bum look big in this” on cheesy TV sitcoms and yet I’ve never heard a woman say this in real life. What I do see on a regular basis is men asking “Does this look small on me?” while showing off watches that are, if anything, usually too … ContinuedThe post OPINION: The answer to the eternal question “Does this look too small on my wrist?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...
Hodinkee
How to trade big-ticket watches for handcuffs and decades in prison.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right – especially since the case and movement are modern – something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...
Time+Tide
Longines is well known for producing important pilot’s watches in the 1930s and gorgeous dress watches in the ’50s. But one area that’s sometimes overlooked, is Longines’ impressive track record with dive watches. From as early as 1937, Longines was making strides in the race to make a functional and truly water-resistant watch when they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A short history of Longines dive watches in the glorious ’60s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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