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New: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Aérolite
De Bethune enhances their spectacular DB25 Starry Varius lineup with a 5 piece a year limited edition rendition in a magnificent meteorite dial.
Results for Service Dial
4,812 articles · 572 videos found · page 140 of 180
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Time+Tide
VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch
Previously, the Speake-Marin catalogue was limited to dressier timepieces outfitted on straps. Recently, however, Speake-Marin unveiled their first foray into the immensely popular integrated stainless-steel sports category with their new Ripples design. The 50 metre water-resistant stainless-steel case effectively presents a large circular dial within a cushion format. While 40.3mm in diameter, because the dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review
Pros: The blue glacier pattern dial Interchangeable strap – takes seconds to change between a steel bracelet and a rubber strap Bang for buck Divers watch with all the right features Cons: 41 hours of power reserve is too short in today’s standardBetween the bracelet and the rubber strap, the rubber strap wears much nicer on the wrist Some may not appreciate the details on the dial Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc? This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif. The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece....
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Only India Unique Piece: Inspired By The Heavens And The Subcontinent
The Louis Moinet Only India is an intricate and colorful display of craftsmanship with a celestial hook that Joshua Munchow can’t ignore: a small fragment of the original Shergotty meteorite used as a centerpiece for the dial honoring aspects of Indian culture.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Legacy Machine Perpetual From MB&F;
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva’s Latest is a Glow-in-the-Dark Fairytale Landscape
Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story: “It’s a travel watch, it’s a weekend beater, it’s a lot of fun”
Back in the day, there used to be a tradition of people being rewarded for long service at their workplace with the gift of a gold watch. Presumably, the idea was that during their years of retirement as they tended their vegetable garden or wandered down to the golf course, they could look down at … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “It’s a travel watch, it’s a weekend beater, it’s a lot of fun” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audermars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Offshore “Music Edition”
A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...
Time+Tide
Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family
Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950
Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture
Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review
What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...
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Short takes: new Franck Muller Krypton Racing Skeleton Grande Date
The Krypton™ collection is gets a new model inspired by the Vanguard Racing Skeleton collection. The collection is known for its stylish engine-turned skeletonized dial, and is fit with two complications, a chronograph and a large date.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500
With a name like Superman, the Yema diver, which originates from the `60s, has to live up to its robust nomenclature. Revamped and refined, the Superman 500 now boasts a 50 ATM depth rating, with two case sizes and dial/bezel colours to choose from. Finding a dive watch with rich heritage, 500 metres of water-resistance, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”
One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...
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New: U-Boat launches 2 Classic 42 Tungsten watches
U-Boat launches 2 new watches in their Classico lineup with two novelties in either a beige or black dial, now sporting a smaller 42mm case.
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion”
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Racing Green
Having released the first Big Pilot’s Watch 43 just over a year ago, IWC has already filled out the collection with many references. The BP43 brought a more wearable case size and a classic type A flieger dial, for an overall cleaner look as opposed to its big brother. The new Big Pilot’s Watch 43 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Racing Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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New: Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Waltz
Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon gets a facelift with a new blue dial and components like the tourbillon cage and chain now accented in blue.
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Three new Nomos Ahoi Atlantic watches
Nomos extends their stylish wear everywhere watch - the Ahoi Atlantic with new animations to dial accents. Full details here.
Time+Tide
We just found out what the year’s most hyped watch is really worth
As soon as the Rolex GMT Master II 126720VNTR was unveiled at Watches & Wonders, the great destro debate ensued. Rolex thrives on incremental updates, shaving lug widths, making subtle handset changes, offering new dial colours etc. As a result, decisions such as discontinuing the 39mm Rolex Explorer, and returning a 36mm variant to solely … ContinuedThe post We just found out what the year’s most hyped watch is really worth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5
Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Travel-Ready SKX Of Your Dreams Has Arrived With The Seiko 5 Sports GMT Series
Globetrotting fan service with a very familiar look and feel.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The 44GS Party Continues With The SBGP017 – A Superaccurate Knockout Of A Limited Edition
With a light blue dial straight from the troposphere and into my heart.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Vibrant New Ceramic-Cased Royal Oak Made With Italian Jewelry Designer Carolina Bucci
And would you look at that dial?
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”
Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Aluminium Ducati Special Edition Chronograph And Riding The Ducati Streetfighter V2: Italian Icons Photofest!
You don’t have to be a Ducatisti to appreciate the Bulgari Aluminium Ducati Special Edition chronograph; it's eye-catching red dial is likely to catch everyone's eye. But it does go great with the fast Italian bike as Ian Skellern explains here.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...