Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 'Neo-Vintage' Calatrava, A Stepped-Bezel Vetta, And A Chronograph With Military Provenance
Some unusual picks in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Results for The 1990 Lange Revival
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Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Soko Editions for US markets with Editorial Commentary
Grand Seiko made a special announcement today, and introduced the next member of the Seasons family in the Soko duo exclusively for the US markets.
Deployant
Review: Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition
Hands-on review of the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner Chronograph, to celebrate Bentley's Continental GT Convertible Mulliner Edition
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry
Revolutionary for its construction and use of silicon, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is still a unique watch almost two decades after its introduction. And the full-featured Freak is still a relatively costly watch, until the Freak X came along last year. The most affordable version of a watch that helped kickstart the age of high-tech mechanical watchmaking, the Freak X retains the essence of its bigger brother while simplifying the rest of the movement. Several iterations of the Freak X have been rolled out since then, including one that ironically takes silicon out of the movement – the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. The watch has a dial decorated with inlaid tiles of iridescent silicon, using the material for its aesthetic potential, rather than the usual functional purposes in the escapement. The Freak X Silicium Marquetry Initial thoughts The Freak X Silicium Marquetry is an aesthetic variant of the standard model, so it’s identical in all respects except the dial finish. A combination of metallic and glassy, the silicon dial is different from any other dial material and suits the look of the watch well. That means the case is compact, so it wears quite well. And more importantly, the watch has a cutting-edge balance wheel amounted on the minute hand, making one revolution an hour. It’s a surprisingly advanced regulator in a watch at this price point, and probably the most advanced of all watches in the price segment. But the Freak X Silicium Marquetry is substantiall...
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB171 Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary
Seiko releases a new Presage SPB171 with the Arita porcelain dial. This novelty is a dial update to the three hand watch with fan shaped power reserve indicator released in 2019.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Singer Reimagined Track 1 Prototype at Phillips
Founded in 2017 as the watchmaking arm of Singer Vehicle Design, the critically-acclaimed rebuilder of early 1990s Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined specialises in chronographs powered by an ingenious Agenhor movement. But before Singer Reimagined settled on its retro-inspired case design, it made a Track 1 prototype with an equally retro but more angular case that is going under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva watch auction, the same that includes a pair of much-hyped F.P. Journe souscription watches. The production version of the Track 1 has cushion-shaped, titanium case with a radial brushed finish that is very much reminiscent of sports chronographs of the 1970s that were produced by host of brands, ranging from Omega to Heuer. It also has a “bullhead” pusher layout, with the chronograph buttons on the left and right sides of the case. More importantly, the standard Track 1 features short lugs with a narrow hood over the end of the strap, making the strap look almost integrated. The Track 1 in 18k gold (left) and titanium In contrast, the prototype has longer lugs with a pronounced opening for the strap. It’s still made of titanium, with a similar brushed case finish, and also evocative of the 1970s, but a different look altogether. Like the production watch, the prototype has wide, polished bevels separating the brushed tops and sides of the cases The prototype is fitted to a NATO-style leather strap – with matching, brushed titanium rings – that loo...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition
When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...
Deployant
New: Kees Engelbarts 1/3 of Dragon Gate Series: Jumping Carp
Master engraver Kees Engelbarts announces a new series - the Dragon Gate Collection with the first installment out of a total 3, the Jumping Carp.
Hodinkee
Best of Watchville: Fratello Examines A Complicated Crystal
The Prokop & Broz Spiral uses a crystal that takes months to make.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Naoya Hida
Get to know the proprietor of an up-and-coming watch brand with vintage styling.
Deployant
Review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds with blue dial
We take a good look at the quintessential Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds with blue dial from SIHH 2017.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Watches from Independent Watchmakers for Under S$250K, from Our Archives
In this week's Throwback Sunday's column, we continue with the theme of watches from independent watchmakers, with six selections at under S$250,000.
Quill & Pad
New Iron Walker By Wempe Glashütte: Serious Steel
Wempe Glashütte, the watch brand from Germany’s most famous retailer, has recently introduced a new team to the sporty steel-encased league: the Iron Walker. Sabine Zwettler takes a closer look at the three flagship models at debut.
Deployant
Seiko Prospex PADI Monster SRPE27K1
Seiko prospex PADI Monster SRPE27K1 is the latest addition to the popular 'Monster' line, now with an attractive metallic blue bezel.
Quill & Pad
Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design
The Bohematic Graphic Sutnar is an homage to Ladislav Sutnar, the most significant artistic figure in Czechoslovakia's interwar period of modernism. Sutnar was chosen as the historical figure to launch this brand-new micro brand and its first line. However, the Graphic Sutnar watch bears not only the name of the world-renowned artist, but also his unique font for the numerals. Find out what all that means right here!
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Virtual Baselworld 2020 Part 2 is live, and we have Rolex predictions, a live schnitzel and lots and lots of watches!
The Home Delivery Watch Fair is back, with Part 2 of (pretend) Baselworld! In this episode we have Rolex predictions with Frank from Monochrome, a live schnitzel dinner with beers, and watches from a slew of brands including Rado, Blancpain, Hublot and H. Moser & Cie. Video Giveaways In each of these Home Delivery Watch … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Virtual Baselworld 2020 Part 2 is live, and we have Rolex predictions, a live schnitzel and lots and lots of watches! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Joyful Heuer Super Autavia, A Pullman-Sized Ermeto, And A Tropical 'Ed White' Speedmaster
There's a lot to love in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Quill & Pad
Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F; x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
GaryG loves a surprise! And in the case of the newly-minted H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F; x H. Moser LM101, he is surprised not once, but twice: two distinctive watches that somehow manage the tricky task of maintaining the core brand identity of the lead brand for each, while successfully integrating identifiable cues from the other.
Hodinkee
Business News: Frédéric Arnault Named CEO Of TAG Heuer
A young executive has the opportunity to breathe new life into the historic brand.
SJX Watches
Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer
Having joined TAG Heuer in 2017, Frédéric Arnault has just been named the watchmaker’s boss, effective July 1. He succeeds Stephane Bianchi, who will then be elevated to head the newly-formed LVMH Watch and Jewellery division – a job that Mr Arnault is perhaps being groomed for – which encompasses the group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith, as well as its smaller jewellery brands, Chaumet and Fred. The biggest LVMH jewellery brand, Bulgari, retains its standalone status. Bulgari chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin, who industry sources say enjoys a competitive rivalry with Mr Bianchi, will report only to the number two man in LVMH, Group Managing Director Antonio Belloni. Presumably Tiffany & Co., the American jeweller that LVMH is in the process of acquiring, will enjoy similar independence. A digital leader While Mr Arnault is the fourth son of Bernard Arnault, the founder and controlling shareholder of LVMH, the younger Arnault arrived in the watch business with an impressive résumé. The 25-year old graduated from France’s prestigious Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in Computational and Applied Mathematics, notching up internships at McKinsey and Facebook along the way. He started at TAG Heuer as head of connected watches, just as the brand was ramping up its push into smartwatches, before being promoted to Strategy and Digital Director in 2018, where he led the design of the latest-generation Connected watch. The recently launch...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Semper & Adhuc Brings Vintage Watch Movements Back To Life
The French brand has a knack for smart design and thoughtful watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Rent a Rolex Submariner now for $299 a month – will luxury watch rentals ever take off?
“Consumers have demonstrated an appetite to shift away from traditional ownership to newer ways in which to access product.” That was the intro of the “End of Ownership” chapter in “The State of Fashion 2019”, a detailed report by the Business of Fashion and global management consultants McKinsey. The chapter outlined one of the big … ContinuedThe post Rent a Rolex Submariner now for $299 a month – will luxury watch rentals ever take off? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm, a model refresh
Blancpain adds 8 novelties to the Villeret Ultraplat 38mm collection. In steel or red gold case, with and without diamond bezel and alligator or bracelet.
SJX Watches
Harry Winston Introduces Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds
Project Z is Harry Winston’s distinct approach to the luxury-sports. Named after Zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy that’s strong, light and resistant to corrosion, Project Z usually combines the exotic alloy with an open-worked dial. The new Project Z14 sticks to the established formula, but in a first for the line, features a retrograde seconds. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Project Z14 would not be remiss among the previous Project Z watches, looking futuristic and avant-garde just like its siblings. Notably, it shares the same sculpted, brushed case and a multi-layered dial accented with the signature Harry Winston shade of blue. The oversized crown guard with triple fluting is inspired by the arch above the doorway to Harry Winston’s flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue The enhanced sense of depth and structure is what sets the Project Z14 apart from its predecessors. A small tweak that makes for this significant difference is the chamfered bezel, replacing the flat and smooth found on the past offerings. Providing more angles and facets to a case that is already architectural in style, the chamfered bezel blends in perfectly with the various bevels on the case and lugs. With such a modern design, it is no surprise that the case is large – 42.2 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm tall – and suited to contemporary tastes. The openwork dial The visual depth is compounded by the attractive, open-worked dial that boasts a multitude of details. The grid-motif...
Time+Tide
Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; just had twins, and they’re bloody beautiful
Collaborations, no matter the context, are fraught with the potential of being, more often than not a curious reduction in the individual talents involved. Instead of following the apparent logic that it may be ‘twice as good’ as the individual party’s work, it’s commonly quite the opposite. Half as good, if that. And consequently, neither … ContinuedThe post Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; just had twins, and they’re bloody beautiful appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in…
Entire nations forced under lockdown, airlines teetering on the brink of collapse, fistfights erupting over rolls of toilet paper … Coronavirus has rocked the planet and God knows what life will be like when ‘normality’ resumes. It’s unlikely to be normal as we knew it, that’s for sure. In such desperate times, it may seem … ContinuedThe post Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: MB&F; X H. Moser LM101
Here is the other half of the Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser duet recital in the Performance Arts arena. Presenting the MB&F; X Moser LM101.
Deployant
New and reviewed: H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
We go hands-on with the new H. Moser x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon in funky blue fumé dial, and discussed technicalities with Edouard Meylan.
SJX Watches
Up Close: H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Long rumoured and much anticipated, the tie-up between MB&F; and H. Moser & Cie. is here. Moser applied its sensibilities to the MB&F; LM101, while MB&F; revamped its Moser Endeavour Tourbillon. The result is the H. Moser × MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, which is more than a new, smoky paint job. It is indeed a Moser tourbillon enhanced with MB&F; design, but the redesign goes beyond the styling. An indirect going train was added to reposition the time display, and more importantly, the tourbillon has been reconstructed to feature a cylindrical hairspring, which is surprisingly cool in action. Initial thoughts When I found out about the Moser and MB&F; collaboration some months ago, I expected it to be a wristwatch with a fumé dial and MB&F;-inspired detailing – and it is. At a distance, it is reminiscent of the recent MB&F; LM Thunderdome Triple-Axis Tourbillon, which is substantially more complicated, but also substantially more expensive. Up close, the details reveal it is a Moser. Some details, like the fumé dial, are obvious, while others, like the curved hairspring stud holder and two-tone balance wheel, are more subtle. The watch is not as predictable as the MB&F; x Moser formula might imply. Despite sticking to Moser’s minimalist leanings, the face manages to be thoroughly three-dimensional, though legibility is so-so. Most importantly, it boasts a compelling tourbillon – that is really impressive in motion – while being less expensive than the typical...
Revolution
Introducing Harry Winston’s 2020 Collection of Watches
Harry Winston announces the 14th chapter of their Zalium watches and a bevy of additions to the Ocean Biretrograde and Premier Collections