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Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist Fratello
Mar 16, 2024

Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist

Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand […] Visit Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV Revolution
Louis Vuitton s High Watchmaking Novelties Mar 13, 2024

Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV

Join Wei, Eleonor, and Michel Navas, Co-founder and Master Watchmaker of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, as they explore the brand’s latest high watchmaking novelties of 2024. For over two decades, Louis Vuitton has been steadfast in its pursuit of excellence in watchmaking-an endeavor steeped in both tradition and innovation. With a commitment to […]

Introducing – Genus Goes Sleeker and Simpler, With the Still Singular GNS2 Watch Monochrome
Mar 12, 2024

Introducing – Genus Goes Sleeker and Simpler, With the Still Singular GNS2 Watch

Genus, an independent brand hailing from Geneva, is the brainchild of Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières. In 2007, Sébastien Billières co-created GMTI, a company specialising in manufacturing of ‘Geneva Seal’ movements for brands, and gained broader recognition in 2019 with the highly acclaimed Genus GNS1, featuring an exotic time display. Fast forward five years, and […]

First Look – New American Indie Watchmaker Fleming Presents its First Watch, the Series 1 Launch Edition Monochrome
Mar 11, 2024

First Look – New American Indie Watchmaker Fleming Presents its First Watch, the Series 1 Launch Edition

The pandemic has opened the door to countless opportunities for aspiring entrepreneurs. Thomas Fleming, an avid American watch collector, saw his dream of starting his own independent watch brand take shape during this time. To make this project a reality, Fleming brought together an impressive cast of Swiss partners, including renowned independent watchmaker Jean-François Mojon […]

Watches Powered by Body Heat: Did the Bulova Thermatron Foretell a Matrix PowerWatch Heat-Driven Future? Quill & Pad
Bulova Thermatron Foretell Mar 11, 2024

Watches Powered by Body Heat: Did the Bulova Thermatron Foretell a Matrix PowerWatch Heat-Driven Future?

As we all know quartz became a Greek tragedy, but fortunately one with an eventual happy end for most brands. Well, happy for the Swiss brands but not so much for the American brands, in particular Bulova. Martin Green thinks heat may have played a role here and may well again with the technology showcased by the new Matrix PowerWatch.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 11, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy SJX Watches
Mar 8, 2024

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling Teddy Baldassarre
Louis Erard Mar 7, 2024

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling

Louis Erard is one of those Swiss watch brands that may have registered on your radar only recently - earning both enthusiast buzz and critical acclaim in the past few years thanks to its very high-profile partnerships with indie watchmakers whose own timepieces might otherwise be unattainable. How did Louis Erard, which actually traces its origins all the way back to the Great Depression, manage to finally find its niche in the 21st Century? Family Foundations Born in 1893 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a historical hub of Swiss watchmaking, Louis Erard discovered his horological vocation early. In the early 1900s, he began plying his trade as a watchmaker for several of the town’s workshops, and in 1929 founded a watchmaking school where he served as instructor. At the same time, Erard started a watchmaking business with a partner named André Perret, originally as an “assembler” of complete timepieces for third parties using parts supplied by independent artisans. By 1931, the partnership was dissolved and Erard became a producer of watches under his own eponymous brand name. The company grew in the following decades, with Erard’s two sons, René and Jean-Louis, joining in 1945. Among the company’s milestones during this early period was helping to develop the now-legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. In 1956, Louis Erard, which still used third-party movements in its own watches, advanced to the next stage of horological prestige, starting production of it...

Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier? Fratello
Cartier ? Welcome back Mar 5, 2024

Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier?

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re asking what would make us buy a Cartier watch. It’s a good question because neither of your co-hosts owns a timepiece from the incredibly popular brand. As we’ll see, the reasons have little to do with what’s currently on offer and more to […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier? to read the full article.

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf Worn & Wound
Seiko s affordable caller GMT Feb 29, 2024

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf

Everyone says that the sophomore album is what makes or breaks an artist. Well, how about a watch company? In this instance we have Imperial Watch Co.’s follow-up to their successful Royalguard 200, the Oceanguard GMT. The Oceanguard GMT builds off the Royalguard and takes advantage of Seiko’s affordable caller GMT movement, the Seiko NH34. Like the original Royalguard, the Oceanguard continues to pay homage to the Eberhard Scafograf 300, keeping a similar design language from its predecessor with some notable departures.  It’s no secret that GMTs are popular among watch enthusiasts, so it seems like a natural progression that Imperial has added this complication to their new Oceanguard, while maintaining the same case proportions as the Royalguard. With a case diameter of 38mm, thickness of 14mm, lug-to-lug of 47mm, and lug width of 20mm, the watch will be just as wearable even with the added functionality. The Oceanguard release will contain four new models: three with black dials, and one with a white dial. There will be two models with a “Pepsi” bezel, one with a black dial and one with the only white dial in the bunch. The two remaining black dial models will have alternatively colored bezels: one with a coral and turquoise bezel, and the other with a fuchsia and cyan bezel. Each of the individual models will be limited to 25 pieces. Whether you like traditional looks or new funky color-combos, Imperial has you covered.  The case and dial are the same as t...

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Feb 27, 2024

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review

Founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a vast and diverse collection of timepieces, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board. Throughout its history, and starting as early as 1938, when a Tissot watch was used to time a series of Alpine ski races, Tissot has also been a watchmaker with close ties to sports - from tennis’s Davis Cup in 1957, to its close timing partnerships with bicycling and motorcycling championships from the 1980s to today, to its recent high-profile status as official timing partner of the NBA. And while Tissot is probably not the first brand that leaps to mind when you think of motorsports-inspired timepieces, it was indisputably one of the pioneers of that genre, a style most clearly and boldly expressed in the PR516 collection, a mainstay of the Tissot portfolio that has undergone a significant, vintage-inspired refresh in 2024.  Tissot’s association with motor racing, and the seed from which the original PR 516 (originally spelled with a space between letters and numerals, and later hyphenated) would spring, began with what was essentially a fan letter from a satisfied customer. In 1958, Tissot received a signed photograph from a Swiss racing driver named Harry Zweifel, which was accompanied by a note in German that read, “Meine Tissot ist an jedem Rennen dabei,” or “My Tissot is ...

Supporting Orbis With The MoonSwatch Auction Fratello
Omega has been one Feb 22, 2024

Supporting Orbis With The MoonSwatch Auction

Since 2011, Omega has been one of the partners of the Orbis Flying Eye Hospital. With ambassadors like Daniel Craig and Cindy Crawford, the Swiss watch brand aims to get more attention for Orbis’s initiatives. The Flying Eye Hospital Orbis is fighting against preventable blindness. Since 1982, this non-profit organization has had a flying hospital […] Visit Supporting Orbis With The MoonSwatch Auction to read the full article.

Maurice de Mauriac Embraces Brutalism with the Pillow Watch Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Embraces Brutalism with the Pillow Watch

Maurice de Mauriac isn’t afraid to make a bold statement. And their latest release, the Pillow Watch, might be their boldest yet. Not because it’s overly-designed or flashy, but for the quiet confidence this collection possesses. The Pillow Watch is a set of three references (Black, Bronze, and Titanium), each with a cushion case design and a corresponding calf leather strap that showcases the exceptional craftsmanship and design philosophy of this Swiss brand. Drawing inspiration from the architectural movement of brutalism, the Pillow Watch possesses clean lines and a bold design. For those who love a cushion case, you can agree that it’s a design built on a bit of opposites: daring, but subtle; delicate; but strong. For a brand that has put out some pretty eye-catching designs lately, some might consider this a departure for Maurice de Mauriac; but I say it’s the opposite. The Pillow Watch is a natural evolution for the brand, eschewing the bells and whistles for something simple, timeless, and sophisticated. Coming in at 45mm, this is a watch with presence, made all the more so with its Fabian Schwaerzler-design dials. Designed with thick applications of Superluminova, it’s at once retro and modern. The minimalist dial, displaying only hours via large lume plots, underscores the brand’s commitment to restraint for this collection, ensuring the watch remains balanced in its design. The Pillow Watch runs on a La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement, designed b...

Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2024

Elka Teams Up with Ace Jewelers for a New Limited Edition

The Elka Watch Co. continues to build upon its vintage-inspired D-Series lineup with the D-Series Essence, a limited edition collaboration with Ace Jewelers released Friday. The Essence is intended to reduce a watch to, well, its essence. It’s not the first watch to explore minimalism in design, though the inspiration behind it is certainly unique. The Essence marks the second collaboration between Elka and Ace Jewelers, the first of which saw the release of four limited edition watches with different languages’ numerals. This is, in some ways, a continuation of that series, still interested in numerals, now exploring what a watch looks like in their absence. The deep blue dial features no markings aside from the words “Elka Watch Co.” and “Automatic” below the 12 o’clock and the words “Swiss Made” at the bottom of the dial. Unobstructed by indices or any additional text and with a 41mm case and a domed crystal, the blue dial is reminiscent of the open sea. The dial features a subtle sunburst that prevents it from feeling too flat or visually uninteresting. The 40.8mm stainless case features a screwed-in caseback with 30 meters of water resistance and is 46.5mm lug to lug. The La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement inside the watch gives it a 68-hour power reserve, and has become a signature of Elka’s products, having been used in its watches since Elka released its first watches on Kickstarter in 2022. Hakim El Kadiri, who re-launched Elka in 2022, has...

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System Worn & Wound
Montblanc Ralph Lauren Tiffany & Feb 20, 2024

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System

There’s a storied history of non-watch companies making the foray into the watch world. Montblanc, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co. Some of them are even quite good–the Hermès H08, for example, is simply stunning and unlike anything else on the market. But none of these forays into watchmaking is quite as quirky, quite as unexpected, or quite as downright amusing as the LEGO Watch System. I discovered the LEGO Watch System, and specifically those released in 2013 which after some research seem to be the best since LEGO launched the product in 1996, on January 28, National LEGO Day, as luck would have it, through a random recommended post on Instagram. The 2013 LEGO Watch System was produced for adults, unlike its predecessors–no Nexo Knights minifigures included with these. The designs ranged from zero LEGO design references–like a black and yellow dial with arabic numerals that just featured the LEGO logo–to those with subtle LEGO design cues–such as the models with two-stud LEGO pieces for indices–to models that wanted zero confusion about who made these watches–like the model that features a pirate skull and crossbones made out of LEGO bricks or the one that’s just a big LEGO minifig face in the middle of the dial. Uniting all of these disparate aesthetics is a modular design that lets you switch and swap parts. The bezels, straps or bracelets and their links are all interchangeable, giving owners increased customization over their timepieces. Powered by a...

Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Ceramic Formula 1 Special Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Feb 19, 2024

Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Ceramic Formula 1 Special Edition

Having just announced its first-ever Formula 1 sponsorship, Tudor also quietly revealed a Black Bay Ceramic for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One (VCARB) racing team. As with the standard model, the case is black ceramic, but instead of the usual black, the dial is in a striking blue that matches the livery of the team’s car (and the Visa logo). Like almost all of its special edition watches, the new Black Bay Ceramic is not for public sale but instead meant for members of VCARB team. The brand hasn’t released any official statement regarding the watch, and all that is known for now are two portraits of VCARB driver Daniel Ricciardo wearing it. The VCARB car for the 2024 season. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts Tudor has grown imaginative and adventurous in its products and marketing in recent years, especially compared to a decade ago, which stands in contrast to its still conservative sister brand Rolex. In that regard, Tudor has become something of a platform for the Rolex group to experiment with new ideas and concepts, which was what Rolex once was decades ago, before it became the world’s biggest and most valuable watchmaker. Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Tudor has been particularly active in collaborations with notable organisations, ranging from elite military units to America’s Cup competitors. Each collaboration, in turn, results in a watch. Even though Tudor has made a good number of collaborative special edition watches to date...

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain Worn & Wound
Vulcain Building Feb 15, 2024

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain

Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...

Introducing: The Formex × Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer Fratello
Formex × Worn & Wound Feb 7, 2024

Introducing: The Formex × Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer

If you follow my writing, you know that I am a bit of a Formex admirer. The Swiss brand offers specifications and value for money that are second to none. So when Formex teams up with a watch medium like Worn & Wound to create something special for enthusiasts, I pay attention. I was, however, […] Visit Introducing: The Formex × Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer to read the full article.