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Code 11.59 Audemars Piguet

AP's 2019 round watch family. Octagonal midcase, round bezel, double-curved sapphire.

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Santos or Ebel – Sep 14, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary

Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...

Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bovet Sep 12, 2020

Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection – Reprise

Ian Skellern tried, but didn't quite manage, to come up with a more diplomatic way of saying this, so he just came out with it: up to this point, he had not generally been a fan of Bovet 1822. So he was surprised by just how much he was impressed with the Ottantasei by Pininfarina and would be very happy to wear one daily. But there is one niggle that he just can't shake off . . .

HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look? Time+Tide
Cartier Pasha collection has dropped Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look?

My dad once told me to never spoil a good story with the facts, and that’s a sentiment that seems to be well-loved within the watch industry. Whether it’s a Rolex reaching the summit of Everest, or the friendly tale of a hiker named Daniel Wellington, every watch is made just that little bit more … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Cartier Pasha collection has dropped, is it time you gave Genta’s most divisive design a closer look? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium collection Bulgari has Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection

Bulgari has revived a late ’90s classic with the new Bulgari Aluminium collection this year. A great blend of daily and luxury wear, these lightweight watches pack a heavy punch. While watch designs can be quite homogenous in a traditional industry, the new Bulgari Aluminium 2020 models are welcome revivals with their distinct Bulgari aesthetic. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The lightweight luxury of the new Bulgari Aluminium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux MB&F; Maurice Lacroix Louis Aug 31, 2020

On Scene: Geneva Watch Days 2020

Twenty-twenty will remain as a most peculiar year for the world as well as for trade fairs. Having taken place August 26-29,Geneva Watch Days (GWD) might be the only physical show the watch industry will see this year, at least in Europe. How did it fare? Was it a success for the brands, media, and public? Here is an overview of the atmosphere. After the demise of Baselworld and the rescheduling of Watches & Wonders to Shanghai (will it really happen?), GWD was a ray of light in the dark times the watch community was experiencing. First mooted by Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive of Bulgari, and a few other watch brands, GWD quickly grew as many brands hopped on the bandwagon, hoping to salvage what already looked like an annus horribilis. “Phygital” is the new normal More than 20 brands were showing during the four days of GWD, which was a series of exhibitions and events at venues across Geneva, rather than being concentrated in a large hall as the traditional fairs are. Most brands were part of GWD itself – Artya, Breitling, Bulgari, Bovet, De Bethune, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, H.Moser & Cie., Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, Maurice Lacroix, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk. But the official GWD exhibitors were accompanied by an array of independent brands more than happy to share a common audience. Carl F. Bucherer tagged along by presenting its novelties at the Bucherer store in Geneva, while Le Salon des Horlogers, a small, cosy store i...

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 122610LV – Aug 31, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit”

Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 29, 2020

Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality – Reprise

In this installment of Behind the Lens, GaryG shares a series of photographs of one of the great watches of our time, the Philippe Dufour Duality. The Duality, with its linked twin escapements, was originally planned for production in a series of 25 watches. In a turn of events that seems almost unbelievable today, a lack of initial demand eventually led Dufour to limit production to just nine pieces, one of which is owned by a good friend of Gary's.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds Time+Tide
Aug 27, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds

This week involved not one, but two Time+Tide events and, of course, a very significant one for the industry, which was Geneva Watch Days. We were there, with Marcus, our Creative Director, and a good friend, Mike Christensen, running the show - there are some delicious, funny and quirky videos in production from the event that … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique Aug 24, 2020

The Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique

A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs Aug 22, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast

If you were to pick Girard-Perregaux’s Jekyll & Hyde, this would be the pair of watches that fit the bill; the Laureato 38mm and the Laureato Absolute Chronograph. Girard-Perregaux is a distinguished but quiet presence on the horological scene, and have a history whose shadow and depth extends well beyond the brand’s current day reputation. … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm Aug 19, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years

Collectively, a decent amount of people were shocked when Longines decided to revive the Spirit appellation earlier this year … and shocked in a good way. You see, as far as novelty unveilings go, the Saint-Imier watchmaker had already outdone themselves in 2020 (think Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 or HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green), they … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our interview with Jocko Willink, and a daily shot of his Timex, is the motivation we all need right now Time+Tide
Timex Aug 17, 2020

Our interview with Jocko Willink, and a daily shot of his Timex, is the motivation we all need right now

Editor’s note: When Luke wrote this post, a few months back, I had no idea who Jocko Willink was. We had an interview opportunity, he sounded like a badass, he loved his Timex, all good, sure, let’s do it. Reading it, I felt a spark of motivation, and wanted to learn more about his psychotic … ContinuedThe post Our interview with Jocko Willink, and a daily shot of his Timex, is the motivation we all need right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach

Undone has got to be one of the best in the business when it comes to making uber-affordable, attractive, quality timepieces for the enthusiast. We’ve spent a lot of time with quite a few of their watches now, and given the amount they offer, for such a low RRP, they’re pretty much in a class … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The global launch of the Undone Aero – First-Class looks for the cost of Coach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Elvis Is In The Building: In Honor Of The King And His Watches – Reprise Quill & Pad
Hamilton Ventura Aug 16, 2020

Elvis Is In The Building: In Honor Of The King And His Watches – Reprise

Elvis Presley died on August 16, 1977. This was a day of soulful heartbreak for Elizabeth Doerr, who knew she would sorely miss his voice. What she didn't know back then was that Elvis owned a number of wristwatches, good ones. Here Elizabeth takes a peek at some of the watches he’s owned as well as a special watch he helped make famous: the Hamilton Ventura.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & Aug 15, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020

Editor’s note: When I first saw this video in the middle of last week, I hit the team WhatsApp message thread with a vengeance. Omitting some more colourful language, the gist was: “I am mind blown by these GMTs, they can’t possibly look as good in the metal as they do in this video?” Both … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet the LIV P-51, a high-specced titanium pilot’s watch at a competitive price Time+Tide
Aug 9, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Meet the LIV P-51, a high-specced titanium pilot’s watch at a competitive price

LIV is a brand that cuts to the chase. Bold, chunky watches with action in mind, and the rare ability to come up with distinctly different designs while keeping its own unique identity consistent across its range. While their microbrand-standard Kickstarter business model may be quite common, their collections of watches and value propositions are … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Meet the LIV P-51, a high-specced titanium pilot’s watch at a competitive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man Time+Tide
Rolex Man “I hate Aug 8, 2020

Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man

“I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they’ve always worked for me.” Hunter S. Thompson was good like that. Always generous when it came to doling out whacked-out life advice. In his writing, he offered heartfelt tips on many things, from hotel liaisons (“Don’t have sex in the lobby – … ContinuedThe post Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Takes To The Seas (Again) With New Versions Of The SeaQ In Stainless Steel, Two-Tone, Red Gold, And Even Diamonds Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Takes Aug 7, 2020

Glashütte Original Takes To The Seas (Again) With New Versions Of The SeaQ In Stainless Steel, Two-Tone, Red Gold, And Even Diamonds

Following the successful launch of 2019's new diver’s collection, which according to Glashütte Original was exceptionally well received, the brand added new 2020 variations of the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date in red gold and two-tone cases and then two new stainless steel variations, one of which is quite unexpected.

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2020

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches

Homage watches within the enthusiast community can be quite a contentious topic at times. Are they rip-offs? Cash cows? Sell-outs? Unoriginal? The reality is opinions can vary, but the true metric or equaliser of any watch to an extent is how they perform on the grey or second-hand market. While the objective of most homage … ContinuedThe post The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Open Letter To Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin: I’m Sorry, I Was Wrong. Whether Geneva Watch Days Runs Or Not In Late August 2020, It Was Worth Optimistically Planning For Quill & Pad
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin I’m Aug 1, 2020

Open Letter To Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin: I’m Sorry, I Was Wrong. Whether Geneva Watch Days Runs Or Not In Late August 2020, It Was Worth Optimistically Planning For

Whether Geneva Watch Days takes place or not, and whether it’s deemed successful or not because of all the travel and quarantine restrictions, doesn’t change the fact that there was a good chance that it could have run very successfully. Which means Ian Skellern was wrong in calling Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin delusional for organizing it. And for that he apologizes.

INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes Time+Tide
Omega Constellation 41mm demands Jul 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes

Omega’s Constellation has always been somewhat of a quiet achiever – a low-key collection that has, thanks to the endless popularity of its space and seagoing siblings, been often overlooked and maybe even, at times, forgotten. That’s all changing in 2020, though. Omega appears steadfast in breathing new life into the dressy-come-sporty collection. In January, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Omega Constellation 41mm demands that you look on the model with fresh eyes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets Jul 16, 2020

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on

Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch of 2020 didn’t go down quite as well as the complicated models that have followed this week to practically unanimous praise. By contrast, the Calatrava Ref.6007A-001, limited to just 1000 pieces and made to celebrate the legacy brand’s new manufacture was met with many more brickbats than bouquets. Why? Well, according … ContinuedThe post A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures SJX Watches
Longines had Jul 14, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures

Swiss watchmaking conglomerate Swatch Group just announced its half-year 2020 results and unsurprisingly, it took a huge hit due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although the group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, had a good start in January with an operating margin of 17.3% – with the watch and jewellery brands performing a bit better than movement- and component-production division – the lockdown progressively imposed across the world since February severely impacted sales, leading to a steep declines in revenue and half-year operating loss, a first for the group. Group sales for the first half plunged 43.4% at constant exchange rates from a year earlier, resulting in an operating loss of CHF327m, compared to a profit of CHF547m for the same period in 2019. Most of the drop in sales was attributed to the lockdowns in most countries, resulting in widespread store closures. The Swatch Group saw up to 80% of both its own boutiques and third-party retailers close, meaning it had to rely on partially “partially feasible” e-commerce. And even after lockdowns were lifted, the group permanently vacated some of its retail space, as evidenced by disputes with its former landlord in Hong Kong, which has sued the Swatch Group for several million in allegedly unpaid rent. Due to its swiftly-streamlining retail network, the group’s employee count was trimmed by 6.5% since December 2019 to approximately 33,700 employees. This was also confirmed by anecdotal evidence fro...