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Fratello On Air: Wrapping Up Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 18, 2025

Fratello On Air: Wrapping Up Watches And Wonders 2025

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re wrapping up Watches and Wonders. We’ve had time to think about the show, the adjoining events, and the watches. You’ll hear our impressions and some good old banter. For our listeners, the watch content begins after 30 minutes. This podcast player is blocked […] Visit Fratello On Air: Wrapping Up Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 17, 2025

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time

Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates Apr 15, 2025

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models

It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades.  The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume.  The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...

Industry News - LVMH Reports Minor Loss of Revenues in Q1 2025 Despite Uncertain Environment Monochrome
Apr 15, 2025

Industry News - LVMH Reports Minor Loss of Revenues in Q1 2025 Despite Uncertain Environment

The world’s leading luxury group, LVMH, has just announced its sales revenues for the first quarter of 2025, which ended March 31st. At the end of the year 2024, when the conglomerate was still reporting strong results, revenues showed a slight improvement, offsetting the losses of mid-2024. However, the global geopolitical and economic environment is uncertain due […]

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL Fratello
Cartier Santos Galbée XL Welcome Apr 15, 2025

Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL

Welcome to another installment of Exploring Evergreens, a series here on Fratello in which we get our hands on watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves if they’ve managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.

Bravur Introduces the Latest in their Team Heritage Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Apr 14, 2025

Bravur Introduces the Latest in their Team Heritage Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

I really don’t know anything about cycling. Beyond a childhood penchant for Livestrong bracelets and about 20 minutes a year spent watching either the Tour de France or the Olympics, the world of competitive cycling is a mystery to me. I don’t even own a bicycle right now. So on some level, the watches produced by Bravur, the Swedish watch brand whose watches often celebrate the fastest sport on two wheels without an engine, shouldn’t really be my thing. And yet, each and every time I encounter the brand, I come away impressed and intrigued. That was definitely my response when I first saw the brand’s Team Heritage watch last year, and it remains my response in seeing their latest addition to that collection: The Team Heritage STR, inspired by the livery of the St. Raphaël team. I’ll have to take Bravur’s word for the long-dormant St. Raphaël team’s “legendary” status, one thing is absolutely for sure, their colors make for a hell of an addition to the Bravur lineup. The Team Heritage model was first released last year and stood out to me not only for its unique colorways inspired by the liveries of some of cycling’s most significant and historic teams but also for the model’s unique architecture, interesting dial executions, and downright fantastic feel on the wrist. Each of the model’s distinct looks stood out to such an extent that it’d have been hard for me to pick a favorite. Not so much anymore.  This red, white, and blue bullseye pattern...

Introducing - The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 14, 2025

Introducing - The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai is the official timekeeper of the Salone del Mobile, the largest and most prestigious annual international design fair held in Milan since 1961. Panerai’s involvement with Milan Design Week is celebrated with the release of the new Lumimor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574. As a product launched in 1949 that retains many original design […]

In-Depth - Deciphering the Revolutionary Rolex Dynapulse Escapement and the Calibre 7135 Monochrome
Rolex Dynapulse Escapement Apr 11, 2025

In-Depth - Deciphering the Revolutionary Rolex Dynapulse Escapement and the Calibre 7135

Rolex has changed… Not marginally, but significantly. We knew the brand was capable of being rather unpredictable and capable of bold creative moves, such as bubble-decorated dials and watches with a guilloché pattern. The days when Rolex simply revamped a collection every 10 years by implementing incremental upgrades and releasing new dial colours every two […]

First Look - The new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm in Rose Gold PVD Monochrome
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Apr 11, 2025

First Look - The new Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm in Rose Gold PVD

60 different references… This is how wide Tissot’s best-selling collection, the sporty-elegant integrated PRX watch, has become in about 4 years. Ranging from compact and affordable quartz models to more expensive watches with gold fluted bezels and chronograph movement, and basically everything you can imagine in between (even a forged carbon edition), you’d think the […]

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Apr 9, 2025

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

First Look - The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces Monochrome
Louis Moinet Apr 7, 2025

First Look - The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 1816 Chronograph blends a modern integrated bracelet design with more traditional elements drawn from Louis Moinet‘s classic repertoire, in particular from the fascinating and remarkable Compteur de Tierces, one of the precursors of the modern chronograph. Powered by an appealing, traditional hand-wound chronograph movement, this new Louis Moinet […]

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Goes “Pop” Apr 4, 2025

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection

It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models.  The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Roger Apr 4, 2025

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication

Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, a milestone that calls for a look back at its remarkable journey. While the brand’s history may not be long, it is undeniably rich and eventful. Today, however, the focus is on the latest revelation at Watches and Wonders Geneva: the Excalibur Grande Complication. This new timepiece […]

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights Fratello
Tudor Apr 3, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights

On this rapid-fire episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex take a short break from their busy schedules to discuss some of their Watches and Wonders 2025 highlights. On location at the YouTube studio at the show, they quickly run through some of the most notable releases, starting with Rolex and Tudor and moving on […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2025 Highlights to read the full article.

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement SJX Watches
Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection Worn & Wound
Cartier introduced Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection

Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary Worn & Wound
Hublot Drops Apr 2, 2025

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary

If $1 million were dropped in your lap tomorrow, what would you do with it? It’s an age-old question (okay, maybe not age-old), one that has driven endless late-night discussion and at least one surprisingly popular ‘90s Canadian rock song. Most of us have some version of an answer to the question, and Hublot has come along to offer up one solution for one lucky Big Bang enthusiast. As part of their celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot has produced a hell of a collector’s set - the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Unique Set. What does that mean? Well, it’s pretty much what it says on the tin. Hublot has, through a collection of five piece unique watches, built a collection of Big Bangs that does a pretty cohesive job of summing up the last two decades of Big Bang into one illuminated case. And for the very reasonable price of - cue Doctor Evil - $1 million dollars (well, really 1 million CHF, so about $1,099,000 US) it can all be yours. Inside this extreme collector’s set, you’ll find five Hublot Big Bangs, each of which combines a ‘high complication’ feature set with a case executed in some modern material or another. Moving through the collection, you’ll find a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a red and black ceramic case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a transparent sapphire case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in a Water Blue Sapphire case, a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Ca...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575

Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 to read the full article.

Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions

Vacheron Constantin turns 270 this year; can you believe it? To mark the occasion, the Maison is releasing several new models. Among them are eight new celebratory limited editions of Patrimony and Traditionnelle watches. We will cover the other new watches in separate articles. I can, however, imagine you may struggle to keep up with […] Visit Introducing: Eight New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony And Traditionnelle Limited Editions to read the full article.

First Look - Chopard Celebrates 25 Years of the Quattro with a Refreshed & Compact L.U.C Quattro Monochrome
Chopard Celebrates 25 Years Apr 2, 2025

First Look - Chopard Celebrates 25 Years of the Quattro with a Refreshed & Compact L.U.C Quattro

The ultra-thin, 3.7mm Calibre 98.01-L, certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and COSC, was the second developed by the Chopard manufacture and followed the groundbreaking Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, which was created in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani and laid the foundation for future movement development. The manually wound 98.01-L featured Chopard’s so-called Quattro technology: a […]

First Look - The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Alpina Apr 2, 2025

First Look - The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]

First Look - The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Enamel Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Enamel Apr 1, 2025

First Look - The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Enamel

Since 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre has marked each new decade of the Reverso with a special edition, beginning with the Soixantième, which celebrated the model’s 60th anniversary. Introduced in 1931, the Reverso remained a time-only watch until this milestone edition became the first to feature complications. A decade later, the Septantième showcased the brand’s expertise in movement […]

First Look - The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle and Patrimony 270th-Anniversary Collection Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Apr 1, 2025

First Look - The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle and Patrimony 270th-Anniversary Collection

Select members of Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle and Patrimony families have been invited to join in the 270th-anniversary celebrations. Eight references from both families have been singled out for the special treatment and flaunt dials decorated with a unique motif created for the 270th anniversary of the brand. As important as the dial, the manufacture calibres […]

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Apr 1, 2025

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century

The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...

First Look - The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Monochrome
H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Apr 1, 2025

First Look - The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]