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Review: The New Breguet Type XXI 3815 in Titanium
Breguet introduces the most contemporary Type XXI pilot watch yet: the Type XXI 3815 in titanium, available with either orange or green lume.
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Deployant
Breguet introduces the most contemporary Type XXI pilot watch yet: the Type XXI 3815 in titanium, available with either orange or green lume.
Quill & Pad
The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.
Time+Tide
The surge in popularity of Tudor seems unstoppable. The realisation that Small is the New Big has made the Black Bay 58 a real favourite thanks, in part, to its 39mm case. However, there are quite a few of us that have also opened our eyes to the origin of the species, the Tudor Prince … ContinuedThe post Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value: How to find a vintage Submariner for under $5000USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Noah Lyles is set to be one of the big attractions at the Tokyo Olympics. Despite being only 23 years old, he already boasts a 100m personal best of 9.86 seconds, while last week, in the U.S. Olympic track and field trials, Lyles ran the 200m in 19.74 seconds, the fastest time in the world … ContinuedThe post Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches. Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal. In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...
Time+Tide
Fratello knocked it out of the park in their last collaboration outing with Oris to create a bronze/burgundy Big Crown that nailed all the details with aplomb. Now our friends in the Netherlands have brought their keen eye for aesthetics to another end of the pricing spectrum, teaming up with a high-end independent watch manufacturer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
If we needed any further proof that GS has hit the big time, well, here it is.
As '80s Week draws to a close, Phillips' esteemed Head of Watches in New York answers the one big question: So, what should you buy?
Hodinkee
How a stone-age solution helped solve Tissot's big '80s problem.
Time+Tide
Radio shock jock Kyle Sandilands has built a wildly successful career out of being brash and obnoxious. Last week the king of Sydney’s FM airwaves celebrated his 50th birthday in true Kyle style. To mark the big five-oh, the former presenter of Big Brother and Australian Idol rented a modest “super-yacht” to tour the waters … ContinuedThe post Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...
Time+Tide
Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani launched its first sports watch, the Tonda GT, last year. It has an integrated bracelet naturally – inevitable given current trends. Parmigiani is, however, pretty late to the game, since the high-end sports watch with an integrated-bracelet is well used idea. The big names have been doing it since the 1970s, courtesy of Gerald Genta, but the recent popularity of the style means many brands have had a go. Notable new entrants include Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., and even Citizen. Now their ranks are joined by Parmigiani, which, against the odds, has pulled it off with an original, high-quality luxury-sports watch. The Tondagraph GT in its original iteration that was a limited edition of 200 The origins of the Tonda GT might not seem promising. Lacking a historical sports watch design, Parmigiani elected to instead transform one of its dress-watch cases into a sports watch. Surprisingly, the Tonda GT is arguably better looking than the Tonda dress watch. The most compelling offering in the sports watch line is the Tondagraph GT, which combines a chronograph, annual calendar, and sensible pricing. Initial thoughts On paper the Tondagraph GT might not seem interesting. It’s yet another integrated-bracelet luxury-sports watch – and it’s powered by a modular movement. But in hand, the watch is surprisingly appealing. The case is big but thin, with a bracelet that’s equally slim, creating a watch with a comfortable, streamlined profile on the wrist. Even th...
Time+Tide
It’s all well and good catering to our tastes for vintage nostalgia and I admit that I’m usually wearing some form of field / pilot’s / diving watch of 37-40mm that conforms to that genre. But there is a feeling that we are nearing the peak of that graph. If that should happen, the Isotope … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Isotope GMT 0º is a futuristic GMT with a fascinating twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 2021 auction season has seen highs and lows, marked by a lack of physical attendance in the auction halls due to COVID and a tendency towards conservative estimates to ensure that projections are broken. But excitement is mounting ahead of Christie’s closing auction before the summer, with Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe being the big … ContinuedThe post Andy Warhol’s Patek Philippe is up for auction at a surprisingly low estimate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the Earth-friendly Big Bold Bioceramic made of plant-based plastic, Swatch is venturing off the planet and towards the stars with the Space Collection. A line of five watches conceived in collaboration with American space agency NASA, the Space Collection is inspired by NASA’s colours and spacesuits. It is made up of a trio of extra-large Big Bold watches with Bioceramic cases, along with a pair of more classical Gent models in regular plastic. Old school Swatch: Space Race (left) and Take Me to the Moon. Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of Swatch and own several, including the MoMA “Starry Night” launched last month. The brand is often neglected by enthusiasts because of its fun and low-cost watches, despite Swatch having played a pivotal role in keeping Swiss watchmaking going during the Quartz Crisis. In fact, Swatch was crucial enough that its parent company renamed itself Swatch Group, despite owning brands like Omega and Breguet. It comes as no surprise that I like the new Space Collection, especially the Big Bold models. The Space Collection represents Swatch doing what it does best – offering fun, interesting timepieces at an accessible price point. In fact, the Space Collection models are likely the most affordable NASA-endorsed watches on the market. To put things in perspective, even the top-of-the-line Big Bold Chrono is cheaper than Omega’s NASA velcro straps. Starting at US$125 for the time-only version – the line up in...
SJX Watches
Having rounded up some of the interesting and probably overlooked at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, we now take a look at some of the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale. The auction includes big ticket headline lots like a F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, and of course the F.P. Journe tourbillon disguised as Harry Winston. But it also encompasses the less obvious, including a Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine, Singer Reimagined Track 1, a Bulgari-era Gerald Genta perpetual calendar in gold and tantalum, and an early-generation H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual 1 that’s excellent value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place in the evening of June 5 (lots 801-852), and on June 6 (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 809 – Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine Black Sea Cheerful and eminently affordable, the Tourbillon Marine is typical Alain Silberstein. Mr Silberstein’s once explained his approach was to create unique, personalised wristwatches that arouse the emotion. By that measure, the Tourbillon Marine succeeds – it sets itself apart from every diving watch. In his 1990s heyday, Alain Silberstein was rebellious and avant-garde, standing in stark contrast to the strictly conservative style that dominated high horology at the time. This watch is from the early 2000s, but still very much a quintessential Alain Silberstein creation. The dial is quirky and playful – the deep sea ren...
Time+Tide
With their penchant for larger diameters clearly visible in the Grand Seiko SBGE251, I feel the need to underline a simple fact with Seiko and Grand Seiko. While there is a lot to be said for the goldilocks 38-40mm case size, I still haven’t figured out how Seiko manages to make my last big diver’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introduced just earlier this year, the Chronomaster Sport is the first regular-production model equipped with the El Primero 3600, the latest iteration of Zenith’s storied chronograph movement. Having debuted the line with versions in steel, Zenith now unveils the rose gold Chronomaster Sport, adding a touch of luxe to the sports chronograph. Initial thoughts While not the most novel, the new Chronomaster Sport is a sensible addition to the line. Flagship sports chronographs – Daytona, Speedmaster, Big Bang et al – are offered in solid gold, so it makes sense that Zenith would take the same approach with the Chronomaster Sport. I’ve handled the watch in the metal, and it is eminently striking in gold and black. Admittedly, it does have a passing resemblance to the Daytona in the same livery, but I would say that the Chronomaster Sport more than holds its own, especially considering its movement. The dial is recognisably Zenith with its signature tri-colour registers, as well as the date at 4:30. More crucial is the inscription on the bezel that hints at the movement within. The calibre has a 1/10th second resolution for the chronograph, surpassing most chronographs in its price segment. Funnily enough, one of my favourite aspects of the watch is actually the gold flange with the minute track that circles the white dial – the colour pops and works wonderfully against the precious metal case. Priced at US$21,300, the rose gold Chronomaster Sport is substantially m...
SJX Watches
Though taking the form of its signature aviation-instrument watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military is the latest in a lineage of dive watches that started in 1997. Pilot’s watches are its bread and butter, but Bell & Ross (B&R;) has been making high-spec dive watches almost since its founding in 1992. Five years later it launched the Hydromax, which was created in collaboration with Sinn. Featuring a case filled with incompressible synthetic oil, the Hydromax boasted a staggering water-resistance rating of 11,100 m. Two decades later, B&R; launched the BR 03-92 Diver, which transformed the aviation-instrument case into a diving tool with a 300 m depth rating. First unveiled in steel, and subsequently also in either bronze or ceramic, the newest iteration of the BR 03-92 Diver has a functional olive-green dial that evokes the military inspiration behind many of the brand’s watches. Initial thoughts On the surface, the BR 03-92 Diver Military is seemingly a mere facelift, a new dial for the BR 03-92 Diver Black of 2019. Only the olive-green dial is new – but it makes a difference. While green seems to be the colour du jour for 2021, the olive-drab dial colour underscores the B&R; spirit perfectly. The brand often looks to the military for inspiration – and has made watches for both police and military units in France – while being inclined towards a vintage style, particularly in its round watches. Best described as a retro-military colour that evokes unif...
Deployant
We take a complicated adventure with split seconds chronograph and pick 6 of the best. From Lange, Patek, Journe, IWC, Sinn and Habring.
SJX Watches
Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
WatchAdvice
Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics. Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...
Time+Tide
Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s no shortage of icons in the realm of pilot watches with aviation forming a key part of human achievement over the last century. There is arguably no stronger example of watches being used as indispensable tools, a notion which is increasingly romanticised as the humble watch becomes more of a style accessory over the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Around Christmas time when I dug into the archives of Orient Watch, the lesser known sister company in the Seiko family, our story resounded with our readers in a big way. Personally, since my early days of vintage obsession, through to a brief flirtation with a Mako diver, I have nurtured a secret love for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The toughest new tools from Orient Watch offer in-house credibility and superb value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ian has a fairly narrow frame of reference when it comes to buying watches for himself: his taste runs to independents, in-house movements, and superlative hand-finishing. So why on earth did he buy a Corum Bubble, which is from a big (for him) brand and outfitted with an ETA 2892 movement with an industrial finish? And it's huge!
Time+Tide
Fears Watch Company is a big part of the renaissance of British watchmaking and yet another sign of the new roaring 20s as UK horology continues to regain its momentum. The most important model in the Fears catalogue is the Brunswick and I had the impression that it peaked with the beguiling vertical striations on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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