Time+Tide
This Grand Seiko SBGZ011 takes the brand’s saga of engraved watches to a whole new level
Grand Seiko is back with another hand-engraved masterpiece, and this SBGZ011 'Majestic Waterfall' may be the best one yet.
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Time+Tide
Grand Seiko is back with another hand-engraved masterpiece, and this SBGZ011 'Majestic Waterfall' may be the best one yet.
Monochrome
The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour, introduced at the start of the year, combines a jumping-hour display with a new design language for the brand, best known for its single-hand watches. Rather than displaying the hours with a central hand, the time is indicated through a jumping-hour aperture at 12 o’clock, while a centrally mounted hand […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Since Vulcain's revival in 2022 under the helm of Guillaume Laidet, a name familiar to most here thanks to his hand in brands like Nivada Grenchen and SpaceOne, it's steadily cranked out watches under a few collections, from skin divers to chronographs, and most importantly, its iconic design that is the Cricket alarm watch. While these modern Crickets have largely remained faithful in spirit to their predecessors, today marks a new limited edition from Vulcain with a contemporary twist: the Vulcain Cricket Titanium. The name kind of gives everything away here, with titanium being the main focus of this new run of 100 pieces. The 39mm case, in its slightly upsized modern form, is made this time in grade 5 titanium, polished throughout. The dial is also in titanium, with a stamped guilloché effect paired with white printing for a minutes track and applied indices. The handset comes in a variety of colors, with the skeletonized dauphine minute and hour hands paired with a black seconds hand, and a metallic nickel-plated alarm hand with a blackened arrow tip that points to the printed track to better set your alarm time. But that's not where the titaniumification (I'm going to pretend that's a real word) ends. Here, the Le Locle-assembled and manually-wound Vulcain Cricket Calibre V14 is also produced from titanium movement blanks, meaning that the titanium theme translates all the way to the inside of the watch and can be seen through the exhibition caseback. S...
Monochrome
The Manhattan series is an important collection for Maen, being an integrated-bracelet sports-watch design series with an increasingly refined execution at an accessible price. Last year, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots introduced the Manhattan 37 Ultra Thin, a slimmer and more elegant interpretation of its popular collection, powered by a hand-wound movement. Now, Maen […]
Worn & Wound
Nothing beats the bold and brash hand-painted liveries of motorsports in the 1960s and 1970s, especially compared to the overstimulating and overcorporatized wraps of today’s racecars. No, liveries of old were meant to invoke speed and evoke a sense of romance and adventure—and yes, also to occasionally advertise a sponsor. In celebration of those iconic liveries of the golden years of motorsport, British watchmaker Farer has unveiled a new trilogy of colorful chronographs. Each of the new models takes on a colorway seen on racetracks of yesteryear, while maintaining the motorsport-inspired design of their chronograph lineup. The new Racing Chronographs measure in at a slim 38.5mm in diameter and 13.4mm in thickness, making the stainless steel case comfortable on the wrist for long sessions behind the wheel. Each model features three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, with hours, minutes, small seconds, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters. A bidirectional bezel with a ceramic insert wears a 12-hour scale and along with the hands and indexes, is filled with Super-LumiNova for legibility and visibility. Inside, and visible through a flat sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, is a Sellita SW510M b Elaboré grade movement. Decorations include skeleton framework, perlage finishing, blued screws, and a custom engraved bridge with the Farer monogram just below center. A 63-hour power reserve ensures that setting the watch down between race days won’t be an issue. I’ve ...
SJX Watches
John Arnold was originally a pioneering English watchmaker of the 18th century. So it is fitting that his namesake brand resurrected in Switzerland is creating his home city – with a clever twist. The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline seemingly depicts the British capital of yesteryear on mother-of-pearl, but at night the dial lights up with modern-day landmarks rendered in Super-Luminova. The two-hand watch is a run of 20 pieces for The Limited Edition, a London-based retailer specialising in independent and niche brands. Initial thoughts Today’s Arnold & Son (A&S;) has nothing to do with the original firm aside from the name; the watches are Swiss while its parent company is Japanese. The HM London Skyline, however, is a simple and appealing nod to the brand’s history. The use of lume to create an “Easter Egg” of sorts on the dial is smart and sets this apart from the typical landscape dials. Though the dial is not quite top of the line metiers d’art, it is an appealing offering in this segment. Mechanically, the HM is also credible as Arnold & Son’s sister company is La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker that supplies a good number of brands. The A&S;1001 movement inside is solid proprietary calibre that borrows from an existing architecture but transforms it into a movement with a four-day running time. London landmarks The London skyline is depicted on mother of pearl. It shows Tower Bridge on a cloudy day, with many of London’s historical landmarks visi...
Worn & Wound
There’s a riskiness to Oliver Gallaugher’s approach to watch design that I can’t help but admire. His aesthetic is clean, lending a stripped-down, contemporary look, but his methods are complex, resulting in elaborate manufacturing and higher costs. What looks, at a glance, like something simple, like a hand, never is. In fact, the hands of his watches, of which there have been two series, with the first sold out, are notably complicated, even featuring a “world’s first.” Further, though his watches are two-handers, rather than using a standard Swiss off-the-shelf movement, he has, thus far, used highly finished bespoke calibers. The result, and here is the dangerous part, is watches that don’t scream why they cost what they do. They aren’t for people who want or need an obvious element to point to, like a guilloche dial or a complication. The OG Watches Deep Space Blue is both a follow-up and an evolution of the Deep Space concept that the brand debuted with. It takes the same overarching concept, a minimal watch with a dial inspired by the night sky, but developed and refined seemingly every element, stripping back further, and yet increasing the complexity of manufacturing. It also uses a bespoke movement from Le Temps Manufactures, which is known for its work with very high-end independents. Beginning with the case, the first model was 41mm x 10.2mm thick and made of 316L steel. The new model is 38mm x 8.8mm and made of 904L. Given the spacious dial and...
WristBuzz
Two of indie watchmaking's sharpest voices combine heat-coloured titanium and hand-engraved guilloché into something that feels genuinely new
SJX Watches
Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...
Monochrome
The Oris Big Crown started life in 1938 as a pilot’s watch with a large crown that could be operated while wearing gloves and a distinctive, red-tipped pointer hand to indicate the date on the dial’s perimeter. One of the brand’s most iconic models, the classic 40mm Big Crown Pointer Date returns today as a […]
Fratello
We have come to know IFL Watches for its modern hand-painted dials, often inspired by colorful street art. But what if you let the artists at IFLW have a crack at something a bit more classical? We know that Venezianico is a proud Italian brand that celebrates its Venetian roots with every release. If you […] Visit Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...
Worn & Wound
The evolution of Awake has been fascinating to observe over the last few years. From high concept blockchain and space inspired sports watches, the brand took a left turn into traditional craft techniques, and is now working to refine those ideas further in their latest collection. The new Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection combines the Son Mai lacquer techniques the brand has employed in previous collections with evocative, hand-applied guilloche work. These new watches also have updates to the case and dial that we imagine will carry through to further Awake releases in the pipeline. I had a chance to see these watches in person at Chronopolis in Geneva earlier this year, and then again at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, and each time I came away very impressed with the dial work, which is clearly the chief selling point here. To summarize, these dials use the same “Son Mai” lacquer technique, perfected by artisans in Vietnam, that we saw the brand debut in 2024. The resulting bold, vibrant colors really carry these watches and give a very old practice a lot of modern charm. For the new collection, Awake has added guilloche to the mix. Before the lacquer finish is applied, each dial has a meticulously applied guilloche pattern engraved into the dial by traditional rose and straight line engines by craftspeople in Italy. When the lacquer finish is added later, it accentuates the guilloche in a dramatic way, highlighting the depth of the engraving and the ri...
Hodinkee
Yoni Ben-Yehuda is a longtime pillar of the New York City watch collector scene, an original member of the Red Bar crew, and someone who earned his credibility the old-fashioned way: through genuine passion and years spent learning about and actively supporting watch enthusiasm. That foundation matters because it explains the trust he's built since, and quietly, almost invisibly, he has become the hand behind some of the most high-profile watch collections in the world. You've seen those wrists on Instagram and red carpets, and now we're thrilled to feature the collection of the man behind the scenes. Today, as Head of Watches at Material Good — one of the most respected watch destinations in America — Yoni oversees sales across nine locations and a deep partnership with Audemars Piguet. But the role only makes sense when you understand where it comes from. His watch story starts in his teens with a gift from his mother that would foreshadow an impressive collection that is expressive, fun, and very specific. As Yoni himself puts it, "watches are these forever objects in a disposable world," and you can see the progression of his life, his passions, and his depth in the space represented by his watches. In the above video, Yoni and Ben highlight several special watches from Yoni's collection. Here is the list in chronological order of appearance. Alfred Hammel steel watch Audemars Piguet RA Ultra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon ref 25656 (on matching bracelet with...
Fratello
Panerai has introduced the PAM00760 as a bronze take on the Radiomir, celebrating the 90th anniversary of the Bermudian ketch Eilean. The new Radiomir Bronzo keeps things simple on paper, with a hand-wound movement, a two-hander layout, and a familiar 47mm case, but its appeal lies in its use of color and texture. Eilean is […] Visit Introducing: The Organic Shades Of The Panerai Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece. Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...
Worn & Wound
In their stated mission to prove that Chinese craftsmanship and artisanship can be worthy of attention usually reserved for European brands, French-Chinese watchmakers Atelier Wen have consistently put out intriguing pieces since their debut in 2017. Next on that growing list is the Perception V3, which builds on the reputation for hand-crafted horology that came with the original Perception line in 2022. The new V3 model takes elements of the V1 and V2 watches, particularly the hand-turned guilloché́ dials by renowned artisan Cheng Yucai, and aims to perfect the mechanics and aesthetics of the lineup. Three models are on offer, with two colorways returning from previous iterationts—the Piāo in ice-blue and Xiá in salmon—while a new variant, Yún in bamboo green, joins the pack. The three colors are both vibrant and easy on the eyes, favoring a more muted hue that pairs well with the pagoda-inspired lines of the 904L stainless steel of the case and bracelet. Speaking of the case, it measures in at 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the same dimensions as the V2, with the exception of the now-thinner 10.4mm case height. A knurled crown and full exhibition caseback give the V3 watches 100 meters of water resistance. The case additionally features more directional brushing and mirror polishing than previous iterations, while the Yún model additionally steps up the craftsmanship with micro-frosting in place of the brushed surfaces. The dials, though, are where At...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...
Monochrome
Time does not need to be dissected into seconds to be meaningful. This distinctive idea has been essential to MeisterSinger for 25 years. The brand’s single-hand watches deliberately slow the reading of time, changing the focus from precision to perception. To mark its anniversary, MeisterSinger looks back at one of its earlier and most important […]
Monochrome
When Mido released the Ocean Star GMT in 2020, it quickly became a sought-after GMT watch. One of the main reasons was its true GMT feature, offering easy entry into the world of jumping local hour watches, all for around EUR 1,200. Unlike an office GMT, where you adjust the 24-hour hand, a true GMT […]
Fratello
IFL Watches is not kidding around when it comes to new releases. For its latest project, the brand used the Maen Manhattan 37 as the canvas to create a series of hand-painted dials inspired by geometrical art. The result is a watch that combines the angular ’70s style of the Manhattan with a colorful dial […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Maen Manhattan Paradox to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A Vancouver native who studied watchmaking in Switzerland, Bradley Taylor spent the last four years working on his own movement, an endeavour that is has finally in the Ardea. Manually wound with three hands, the Ardea is powered by a hand-made movement made by Mr Taylor, who incorporated a retrograde seconds, setting this apart from the high-end time-only watches that are now common. Mr Taylor made his debut with time-only watches that were powered by high-quality, but essentially stock, Vaucher movements. The Ardea, in contrast, is of his own making. He fabricated his own movement by building on the vintage Omega cal. 30T2 architecture and then making most of the watch himself, right down to the guilloche dial and solid gold wheels of the gear train. Mr Taylor’s attention to detail extends to surprising aspects of the watch, like the platinum applied numerals in a custom typeface. Initial thoughts The Ardea, and especially its movement, is the product of substantial manual craftsmanship. From milling to filing to drilling to polishing – Mr Taylor does almost all of it himself and has documented the process with many photos and videos. As a result, the Ardea is more artisanal than other recent indie creations that are engineer-conceived timepieces, and Mr Taylor deserves credit. Tapping the main plate Applying guilloche to the dial ring with a hand-cranked rose engine Mr Taylor’s choice of movement construction is not surprising, since the Omega cal. 30T2 architectu...
SJX Watches
In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days. This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Among the more attractive releases from Watches and Wonders this year is the new Chopard L.U.C. Strike One Titanium, now with a beautiful new dial treatment. In ethical 18k rose gold with salmon-colored galvanic treatment, with a hand-guilloché central medallion with a honeycomb motif, the Strike One is a watch that may fly under the radar for some. Not a minute repeater, not a grande et petite sonnerie, but rather a beautiful watch that chimes once at the top of the hour (a sonnerie au passage), it's still got a very romantic quality about it. Despite being a chiming watch, Chopard has (as they usually do) minimized the size as much as possible with a 40mm by 9.86mm case in Grade 5 titanium. That light metal should help emphasize the chime's sound, with the hammer on the dial side visible through an aperture for the full experience. Even better, the gong is made of sapphire and is connected in a monobloc construction (one piece) to the dial crystal to emphasize sound transmission. The dial itself is capped by a snail-shaped chapter ring and has rhodium-plated hour markers and hands, plus anthracite-colored printed transfers. This is all powered by the L.U.C. 96.32-L. With a two-barrel construction and micro-rotor, you get 65 hours of power reserve, automatic winding, and a 4Hz beat rate, all chronometer-certified by COSC, with Poinçon de Genève-certified quality. Chopard really shows bigger brands how to do it when it comes to finishing, so this is the kin...
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Fratello
This year, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed with a host of new releases to celebrate 30 years as a brand. Unlike many watches from other marques, though, these pieces are not modernized renditions of prior watches. Instead, as we’ll see, they offer hand-finished dials and precious metals, aside from but also […] Visit Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases to read the full article.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Parmigiani celebrates the 30th anniversary of the founding this year. Here is our highlight for WWG26 as we got our hands-on, and as usual with our live products. First up Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux. Read our commentary with the release details. This chronograph looks like a three hand time only watch, replete with the standard [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Worn & Wound
Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.” The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes. The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...
Monochrome
The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]
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