Results for Tropical Dial & Patina

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

Auctions: The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Sells For CHF 9.5 Million At Only Watch 2021

A clock that truly rocks.

New: Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon

Franck Muller introduces the Grand Central Tourbillon, with a centrally mounted flying tourbillon housed in the signature Cintrée Curvex case.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more

In today’s watch world, Unimatic are punching above their weight. Founded in 2015 by two Italian industrial design students, this relatively new company has established a clean and unique core style in an environment flooded with start-ups and Kickstarter watches. Often the key to good design (and indeed writing) is to edit down.  Just because you … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m

One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.  

Don’t Feed the Hype: Three alternatives to the F.P. Journe Chronométre Bleu

Zach offers up three F.P. Journe Chronométre Bleu alternatives you may want to consider - especially if paying over retail isn’t your jam.The post Don’t Feed the Hype: Three alternatives to the F.P. Journe Chronométre Bleu appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Swatch X Peanuts Collection on Chillout TGIFriday!

Swatch watches introduces 6 new watches with the Peanuts theme, featuring Snoopy, Charlie Brown, Woodstock, and the rest of the Peanuts gang! Available now!

Blancpain Introduces the Bathyscaphe in Titanium

Bathyscaphe in Titanium: A fresh interpretation of a 65-year old dive watch legend that makes it as dynamic, durable and dive-worthy as ever.

Winners – 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...

Photo Report: Let This Women x Watches Event Inspire Your Wrist Envy

Lots of heavy-hitters in one room.

Livestream 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Follow Watchmaking’s Biggest Night Here

The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 12th of November. Follow the big night on Quill & Pad and let us know your thoughts on the winners (and losers) in the comments.

Pre-Owned Picks: Breitling Is The Best Value In Pre-Owned Watches

Have collectors forgotten about good ole Breitling?

Only Watch 2021 According to Wei Koh

Wei Koh sits down to have a look at some of this year’s most talked about unique creations for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. This was while the complete collection was on show at the Malmaison by The Hour Glass in Singapore.

Making The Case: The First Grand Seiko

Introducing our new content series highlighting the depth and detail in vintage Grand Seiko. First up? Naturally, it’s the watch known as the Grand Seiko “First."

Pick of the Lots: Catawiki’s Vintage Rolex Watch Auction

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar in White Gold

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): The Field Is Wide Open

Featuring watches in the price segment from 3,500 to 10,000 Swiss francs, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's Petite Aiguille category is extremely competitive. High quality and a little something extra are, or should be, a given; but here we are looking for a lot of something extra. The great thing about this category is that these are all very wearable, affordable, and accessible watches. So how did our panel do in choosing a winner?

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more

In many ways, dress watches have become an overlooked genre in the watch world. While manufactures haven’t forgotten them, we certainly don’t see the same hype surrounding the latest Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso release as we do for, say, a new Rolex sports watch. While that’s not to knock Rolex by any means (I’m guilty of … ContinuedThe post Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval?

Ever since Sean Connery’s Jame Bond emerged from the ocean in Goldfinger and peeled off his wetsuit to reveal a tuxedo beneath, the question has always been there: should you wear a diving watch with formalwear? (Bond was wearing the Rolex Submariner ref 6538 by the way.) The question arises following the recent launch of … ContinuedThe post Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top of Their Game

IWC Schaffhausen has been producing reliable aviation tool instruments since their first Pilot’s Watch in 1936. We explore the making of the IWC Big Pilot into an icon against all odds and take stock of their newest Pilot’s Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Romain Gauthier Continuum – Titanium Edition One

Romain Gauthier continues its steady march with interesting watches, with interesting movements, and introduces a new watch: The Continuum.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours?

As watch collectors and owners, we all have, in some form or another, an emotional connection with our timepieces. And if, like me, you have hunted after many watches over the years, then you know that the journey can be, at times, more interesting than the destination. When we attend a watch meetup, one of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Vacheron Constantin “Year of the Tiger”

, Vacheron Constantin releases the new Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac - Year of the tiger in 2 limited editions - rose gold and platinum.

Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler”

One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...

Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Five Panelists, Four Different Favorites To Win

Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication, and here only two of the entries are brand-new models. Our panel has very differing opinions as to which of these six chronographs will (or should) win. Follow the discussion here!

Classics Revisited: Hands-On with the MB&F; Horological Machine 2 (HM2)

When MB&F; debuted its first timepiece – the Horological Machine 1 – in 2007, it changed the way we view watches. It also paved the way for the vibrant independent watchmaking scene that we are so accustomed to today. Chances are, for the younger collectors, MB&F; is probably the first independent watch brand that oneRead More

When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66

It used to be that Rolex was the watch to be worn on adventures – climbing mountains, diving the ocean depths, exploring, and forging new discoveries in science involving huge magnetic fields. Well, Rolex is still in the adventure business, but these days the adventure is more likely to be actually trying to purchase the watch … ContinuedThe post When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.