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Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case SJX Watches
Hamilton May 28, 2024

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case

IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller SJX Watches
May 28, 2024

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller

Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...

Hands-On With The Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer Fratello
Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog May 27, 2024

Hands-On With The Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer

Life on Mars is around the corner. That is what some science-fiction movies are telling us, at least. The people who are properly interested in the story know much must be done to make that a reality. But plenty of scientific initiatives are researching life on the Red Planet. If you are a fan of […] Visit Hands-On With The Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer to read the full article.

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns Fratello
Breitling announced May 27, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns

At the end of last year, Breitling announced that it had acquired Universal Genève. That move caused excitement within the watch community, mainly because UG’s vintage watches are highly esteemed. The fact that a respected brand like Breitling is now involved in resurrecting UG seems promising. But we’ll probably have to wait a few more […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton May 26, 2024

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium

If you read this article shortly after publication, you are probably missing the Monaco Grand Prix. Or you are multi-tasking, which I would not recommend; eyes on the road! Either way, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of its Monaco Chronograph in celebration of the Monaco race. Join me for a first look at […] Visit Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn Fratello
Tissot SpaceOne May 25, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn

I’m sorry; I misunderstood the task at hand. This is not about me being given €7,500 to spend on three watches… I’ve reluctantly given myself a purchasing embargo, and for an addict, that’s not easy, hence the happy outburst. But I still relish the challenge of picking the best watches under €2,500, which is not […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn to read the full article.

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 Worn & Wound
May 24, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100

EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads Fratello
Omega sparked his very own May 24, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, reader Antonio shares how his father’s passion for vintage Seiko and Omega sparked his very own love of watches. But it was old ads that truly sucked him into the hobby. Imagine flicking through an old magazine or publication one day at a secondhand store and coming across one […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads to read the full article.

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron Fratello
May 23, 2024

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron

Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood, their Highly Anticipated New Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar May 23, 2024

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Atwood, their Highly Anticipated New Chronograph

For nearly a decade, Chase Fancher and his team at Oak & Oscar, along with their partners, have not only been creating great and sporty timepieces, but they have also been creating a community. To them, the people that purchase their watches are not customers, they are owners. As such, the community has been asking for a new Oak & Oscar chronograph for quite some time. Especially since their Jackson Big-Eye was discontinued. The Jackson, you’ll recall, was a 40mm x 14mm 30-minute chronograph, with flyback function, and it housed a manual wind Eterna Caliber 39 movement. The community’s prayers have now been answered with the new Oak & Oscar Atwood. Just like its predecessor, it is also a proper Flyback chronograph, but this one can time intervals up to 12-hours. Instead of the Eterna caliber 39, it houses an AMT5100M caliber, which is a product of Sellita’s high-end skunkworks AMT division. It is a 23 jeweled, manually wound chronograph with a 58-hour power-reserve, and with the crisp, tactile satisfaction of its blued column wheel you’ll find excuses to time anything. You will also find all the usual Oak & Oscar refinements, including a sandwich dial, a signature high-contrast extra-long chrono seconds hand, and each subdial features subtle yet bright hints of orange that increase the legibility of the timing function. There is also a subtle nod to their first chronograph, which includes a wrapped tachymeter scale along the rehaut that goes to 54 units. As they li...

Raising the Bar: A Recap of the 2024 San Francisco Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis May 23, 2024

Raising the Bar: A Recap of the 2024 San Francisco Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo

Each Windup Watch Fair is special in its own way. We make memories, strengthen old connections, make new ones, and hopefully walk away with a cool watch on our wrists. But speak to anyone who attended the 2024 Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo in San Francisco, and they’ll instantly tell you there was something extra special happening there. The Venue This was the first time that we held the Fair at Gateway Pavilion, a two-level, open-floor plan environment on Pier 2, within the Fort Mason complex, an arts and culture campus operated by the National Parks Department. With its stunning views, ample natural light, and wide-open arrangement, it became an ideal place to bring enthusiasts together.  The Brands All in all, we ended up having 94 unique and incredible brands participate in the show between both watch and non-watch companies-the largest Windup to date. We want to give a massive thank you to each and every sponsor who came to the event and a special thanks to our Lead Sponsors: Alpina, anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, and Oris. It was incredible to see the wide variety of new watches and products at the Fair, many of which were launched to the world for the first time at the event itself. You could literally feel the enthusiasm in the air! The Enthusiasts Speaking of enthusiasm, the crowds that came each day of the three-day event were energized and engaged. Thousands flocked to our Fort Mason venue to soak in both the products and the panels! They came to lear...

Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets Fratello
May 23, 2024

Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets

Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. This topic is familiar to all those who spend enough time around watches and especially to those who consider themselves collectors. Buying, selling, and trading watches comes with the territory, and though a decision may seem solid at the time you make it, you may […] Visit Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets to read the full article.

Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu Fratello
Behrens Takes May 22, 2024

Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu

It’s funny; I was in this same position last year. Having recently attended Watches and Wonders, one of the watches that most caught my eye during the week of releases was not actually at the show. Instead, it was over at Time To Watches. Behrens, one of my favorite brands, released a new watch in […] Visit Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo,” which May 22, 2024

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch

Is the hype for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets over? If you look at a benchmark in this market segment, the steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo,” which sold for four times retail at the height of the wave, is now going for “just” twice the price on the secondary market. So, yes, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Nacho’s Picks From Aquastar, Baltic, And Hamilton Fratello
Hamilton May 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Nacho’s Picks From Aquastar, Baltic, And Hamilton

The team at Fratello continues its yearly quest to highlight some of our favorite watches available on the market today. We are currently deep into exploring those that we consider to be the best watches under €2,500. After missing out on the sub-€1K picks, I’m pleased to provide my two cents at this price point. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Nacho’s Picks From Aquastar, Baltic, And Hamilton to read the full article.

Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series Fratello
Chronoswiss May 21, 2024

Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series

Just two months ago, Chronoswiss announced a new, modern design direction at Watches and Wonders 2024. Don’t worry, hallmark characteristics such as reeded bezels and onion crowns still exist. However, the watches look more contemporary. Today’s three new ReSec Manufacture models continue the theme and bring bold dials for good measure. In late March, Chronoswiss […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series to read the full article.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - May 21, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces

The contemporary Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris debuted six years ago. Since then, new variations have emerged, including a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and the Mariner Memovox alarm model. But a multi-time-zone version was missing from the revived lineup - until today. The Polaris Geographic is a travel watch with one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature complications. One glance at […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces to read the full article.

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36 Worn & Wound
Casio n May 20, 2024

Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36

This coming June 6 marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day. Vertex, the UK based watch brand headed by Don Cochrane, supplied 1,776 watches to British forces on D-Day, and to commemorate the occasion the brand has released a new reference. The M36 feels very much like a watch that Vertex could have produced at any time, but it makes particular sense in the context of the D-Day anniversary. It’s impossible to look at a watch in this style (and these proportions) from a brand with the history of Vertex and not think about the past.  The M36 was conceived as a watch that would borrow significantly from vintage military issued timepieces. To a certain extent, all Vertex watches do this. It’s in the brand’s DNA and is inescapable in the watches they make. But the M36 goes a few steps further. The case, for one, is a compact 36mm in size, which is true to the vintage watches that Vertex would have supplied, and makes the new watch a solid option for virtually anyone today. The sapphire crystal is box shaped as opposed to domed, which gives it an additional layer of vintage charm, and the straightforward dial layout with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track are right in line with WWII era watches.  The watch runs on a workhorse automatic Sellita caliber and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivarox hairspring. The crown screws down, and provides 100 meters of water resistance. There’s also plenty of molded X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, which if it glows anyth...

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 20, 2024

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO

Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...

New To the Shop: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen F77 We have May 19, 2024

New To the Shop: The Nivada Grenchen F77

We have a soft spot for Nivada Grenchen here at Worn & Wound. Founded in 1926 in Switzerland and distributed in the United States both under the Nivada Grenchen and Croton marques, Nivada Grenchen watches are renowned for their durability and quality. Models like the Antarctic, Chronomaster, and Depthomatic earned the respect of consumers, both professional and otherwise. In 2020, the then-dormant brand was revived with the mission of staying true to its mid-century aesthetic with modern technology. One of the latest models to hit the block is the Nivada Grenchen F77, a watch we are proud to offer here in the Windup Watch Shop. A deep dive reveals a timepiece that is both true to its predecessor and incredibly relevant today. We have a soft spot for Nivada Grenchen here at Worn & Wound. Founded in 1926 in Switzerland and distributed in the United States both under the Nivada Grenchen and Croton marques, Nivada Grenchen watches are renowned for their durability and quality. Models like the Antarctic, Chronomaster, and Depthomatic earned the respect of consumers, both professional and otherwise. In 2020, the then-dormant brand was revived with the mission of staying true to its mid-century aesthetic with modern technology. One of the latest models to hit the block is the Nivada Grenchen F77, a watch we are proud to offer here in the Windup Watch Shop. A deep dive reveals a timepiece that is both true to its predecessor and incredibly relevant today. The post New To the Shop:...

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Worn & Wound
Rado Did you know May 18, 2024

Graduation Gift Guide: Remembering Their Big Day with Rado

Did you know that Rado was one of the first watch brands to use high-tech ceramics in their timepieces?  In 1986, they launched the Integral, a style icon, which combined sapphire and ceramics. The goal was to create a watch that could withstand the rigors of everyday life and come out unscathed. In the decades that follow, many other brands have adopted this technology, yet Rado remains at the forefront. As the wheels of scholarship and innovation keep on turning, an education, just like high-tech ceramics, can protect and prepare for all of life’s upcoming challenges. In honor of graduation, in this gift guide we have selected 7 Rado watches that would make excellent companions as your graduate enters life’s next chapter. The post Graduation Gift Guide: Remembering Their Big Day with Rado appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches Fratello
Patek Philippe May 18, 2024

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches

We’ve all heard it: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This advertising slogan became almost as iconic as the watches themselves. That’s understandable, too, considering how it tugs at the heartstrings and strongly implies superior quality. But what charges a watch with heirloom quality? And […] Visit Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches to read the full article.

Fratelli Stories: This Tudor Submariner Has A Special Place In Graeme’s Collection Fratello
Tudor Submariner Has May 18, 2024

Fratelli Stories: This Tudor Submariner Has A Special Place In Graeme’s Collection

In the latest installment in our Fratelli Stories series, we talk to Graeme. He’s a Scottish collector with a passion for vintage tool watches, and his Tudor Submariner has a special place in his collection. Vintage watches are a wonderful opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts alike. The sheer number of options available to us at […] Visit Fratelli Stories: This Tudor Submariner Has A Special Place In Graeme’s Collection to read the full article.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref 6301A May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Auctioned Watches - Featuring Patek Philippe, Rolex, And Cartier Fratello
Patek Philippe Rolex May 17, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Auctioned Watches - Featuring Patek Philippe, Rolex, And Cartier

Last weekend was a big one for the renowned auction houses. All the famous ones in Geneva had incredibly impressive timepieces under the hammer. Some amazing watches, including rare or unique vintage ones, were in the avalanche of timepieces we saw for sale at the yearly spring auctions. We went through the different results and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Auctioned Watches - Featuring Patek Philippe, Rolex, And Cartier to read the full article.