Hodinkee
Breaking News: Raúl Pagès Wins The First Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives
The independent watchmaker's detent escapement wins the inaugural award.
Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement
6,187 articles · 2,612 videos found · page 142 of 294
Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Decoding Omega References: 14 Magic Digits and Codification Tables Revealed – Reprise
Many watch enthusiasts dream of owning at least one timepiece by Omega. And maybe even a second or a third. The Swiss brand definitely ranks among the most popular watch firms. To give you an idea of the overwhelming variety in the current Omega watch world, Sabine Zwettler has put together a guideline for reference numbers.
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Best Longines Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast
Headquartered in Saint-Imier, Switzerland since its founding in 1832, Longines takes its name from “les longines,” or the “long meadows” that surround that picturesque Swiss village. For nearly 200 years, the brand has been a watchmaking pioneer and a prolific maker of timepieces in all manner of styles and for all types of users - from sports timing to aviation, from an afternoon of scuba diving to an elegant night on the town. What are the best Longines watches on the market today? It all depends on what you’re looking for in a timepiece. In the curated list below, we showcase some of our recent favorites from the contemporary collection, which offers a style of watch for just about everyone. Retro-Cool Dive Watch: Legend Diver Price: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11 Longines updated the Legend Diver, a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to its anti-corrosive properties, and paired it with a sea-green lacquered dial. The 42-mm, 300-meter water-resistant case replicates the silhouette of the original and includes that vintage model’s two crowns - one for winding the watch, the other for operating the internal rotating divers’ bezel. The lacquered dial has a gradient effect, with an emerald green center radiating to an outer edge of bla...
Quill & Pad
Three Kinds of Blue: 3 Cool and Relatively Affordable Limited Edition Watches Under $3,000 from Seiko, Oris, and Union Glashütte – Reprise
For less than $3,000 you can get a pretty cool watch with an interesting story to tell. But which one: Japanese, German, or Swiss? Jan Lidmaňský highlights three possibilities from Seiko, Union Glashütte, and Oris.
Monochrome
First Look – The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium
If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]
Video
Jacob & Co @ Geneva Watch Days 2022
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur is Ultra Minimalist
Louis Erard, a brand well-known for its affordable collaborations with notable figures across different industries, has just dropped a wristwatch designed by a Swiss contemporary artist known for his abstract style. A variant of the brand’s classic regulator model, Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Oliver Mosset tells the time, but in an extremely minimalist, almost redacted manner, with just three hands rotating on a dial that evokes outer space. Initial Thoughts The design is clearly the work of an abstract artist; time-telling instrument it is not. In fact, it is not especially recognisable as a watch, particularly for someone unfamiliar with a regulator-style dial. The striking design will be polarising, particularly since it comes at the expense of function. It is, however, appealing in its own peculiar way and more broadly reflects the wide-ranging aesthetic adopted by Louis Erard thanks to Manuel Emch, now the brand’s creative chief and himself a collector of contemporary art. The only downside of the watch is the chunky case, which is shared by all Le Regulateur models. It’s thicker and bulkier than such a minimalist watch should be, but necessarily so due to the no-frills movement inside. But that also means the Oliver Mosset regulator is an affordable CHF3,750, as is typical for the brand. It’s a value proposition for a little bit of contemporary on the wrist. Not a watch That the watch was conceived as an artwork, rather than a timepiece is indicated by the l...
Monochrome
Introducing – The TAG Heuer Carrera Date Plasma d’Avant-Garde, In Yellow Lab-Grown Diamonds
Lab-grown diamonds are used extensively in jewellery but rarely in watchmaking. What takes nature billions of years to achieve and immense effort to mine can be pulled off in a laboratory in a matter of weeks. Embracing the technology and leading the pack, TAG Heuer is the first major Swiss brand to integrate lab-grown diamonds […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Sporting French National Colours
The connection between classic cars and Chopard isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. Beyond the brand’s co-CEO passion for vintage automobiles, the brand has been associated with the emblematic Mille Miglia race since 1988. In the frame of this partnership, Chopard developed a dedicated collection of racing chronographs, with now 35 years of history under the […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset
An exceptional collaboration between renowned Swiss abstract artist Olivier Mosset and watchmaker Louis Erard results in a minimalist black-on-black model destined to become a sought-after collector’s piece. Translating the artist’s abstract, reductionist codes into the miniature canvas of a watch, the Louis Erard Regulator flaunts the monochromatic palette of the rebellious Swiss artist. Produced in […]
Worn & Wound
Hublot Taps One of their Favorite Artist Collaborators for the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinksi
For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has unveiled their latest collaboration with the artist Richard Orlinskli, a pair of limited edition tourbillons in pop-art inspired shades with dramatically skeletonized dials. The Hublot partnership with Orlinski goes back to 2017, and during the ensuing years the Swiss watch brand and French contemporary artist have developed a bona fide collection within a collection. The Orlinski pieces, whether they’re to your taste or not, are so clearly connected to the artist that they are immediately recognizable, often using bold colors and prominent facets at oblique angles, a style that is a clear extension of his sculpture work. The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski is full of familiar ideas from previous collaborations and Hublot mainstays, but pulled together into something that feels entirely new. The new collaboration starts with a 45mm Classic Fusion case in either yellow of sky blue ceramic, but true to form with the Orlinski watches, Hublot has given the artist the opportunity to shape and mold the case to his taste, adding the contours and facets that make the pieces so identifiable as “Orlinskis” to begin with. It’s uncommon for watch brands to give their collaborating partners this level of freedom, but it’s something we’ve seen from Hublot not just with Orlinksi, but in their work with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi as well. Say what you will about Hublot, but they deserve credit for allowing the arti...
Video
ALPINA ALPINER EXTREME AUTOMATIC - 200m Swiss Made Integrated Sports Watch AL-525N4AE6
Deployant
New: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Year of Dragon
To welcome the Year of Dragon, leading Swiss watchmaker Breitling proudly presents a limited edition timepiece of only 88 pieces-the Chronomat B01 42 Year of Dragon-a perfect combination of Chinese culture and Swiss watchmaking heritage. Available exclusively at Breitling boutiques in Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, and South East Asia. Press release with commentary in italics.Read More
Fratello
Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger
As a keen observer of the independent side of Japanese watchmaking, I felt honored when Precision Watch Co. reached out on behalf of Jiro Katayama. Katayama-san is a small-scale watchmaker I have been following for a few years. What I find fascinating is his self-taught watchmaking, a quality he shares with Hajime Asaoka that beggars […] Visit Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review
Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury” - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/01/HAVID_NAGAN_03.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00
I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex. This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary
Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]
Video
WOW - The PHOIBOS Vortex Anti Magnetic 200M Swiss Automatic Diver Watch - PHOIBOS upping Their Game
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...
Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Two Luxurious Gold GMTs to their Master Collection
Since its release in 2005, the Master Collection has enjoyed pride-of-place in Longines’ line of watches. With its mix of contemporary appeal and timeless charm, the Master Collection remains a reliable favorite for those looking to enjoy this Swiss watch brand. And now, Longines has expanded the Master series with two solid gold versions featuring a GMT complication in the aptly named Master Collection GMT. Admirers of the brand can now enjoy the option of either an 18-carat yellow or 18-carat rose gold. With these two new references, Longines is showing us the versatility of these classic silhouettes, allowing a wearer to dress this watch up – or down – to better fit one’s lifestyle. Sitting at 40mm, this case will give any wrist some presence while the frosted silver dial softens the overall appearance. It’s the small details of this dial, in fact, which really show the attention that Longines has put into the Master Collection. This includes a 24-hour scale in Arabic numerals on the rim, cleverly reversed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock for convenient second time zone reading. A railroad minute track separates these Arabic numerals from the Roman numerals of the applied gold hour markers. Adding functionality, a discreet date aperture is placed at 6 o’clock. Elegant gold hands mark the hours, minutes, and seconds, while the GMT hand, accentuated in black, aligns with the 24-hour scale numerals for enhanced readability of the second time zone. Both new re...
WatchAdvice
OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review
What’s it like to own the Tudor Back Bay GMT Opaline Dial? And is it better than the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial? After spending half the year with mine, I know my answer! Purchasing Expectations Loved the bulky aesthetic Wanted a traveller’s GMT that ticked all the boxes My first Swiss luxury watch brand Ownership Reality Incredibly well-rounded and reliable; A true GADA timepiece Perhaps too bulky, almost unbalanced even on the bracelet Where is the in-clasp adjustment? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Taking the Pepsi Plunge If you have just dipped your toes into the whirlpool that is the watch world, you would know the recognisable blue and red colours of the Rolex GMT-Master II, nicknamed “Pepsi.” You would also know that acquiring such a watch is – for want of a better phrase – a massive pain in the behind! To even get a chance at one, you must: A) Know a guy who knows a guy, or B) Play games with the Authorised Dealer for what can extend to an eternity, or C) Fork over exorbitant amounts of money for instant gratification on the secondary market. If you’re in the same financial situation as me, or even significantly wealthier, this kind of behaviour would put anyone off from trying to get one. Even so, they are still incredibly popular – but that’s a whole different rabbit hole to go down. So, when Tudor released the original Bla...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Eska Amphibian 250, The Return of a Storied Brand With a Vintage Diver
Eska isn’t a brand that many are familiar with, but the Swiss watchmaker started production over a century ago. It shut its doors in the late 1980s, like many following the quartz crisis, but has now reemerged with the Amphibian 250, a faithful recreation of the old brand’s rarest diver, the Amphibian 600. Very few […]
Monochrome
Video Review – Straight from South Korea, the Surprising Valérarch Serenity 39
We all know the mechanical watch industry is no longer solely for the Swiss, even though Switzerland is still very much the epicentre of all things watch-related. Nevertheless, we’ve seen brands from all corners of the world making watches that can measure up to mainstream ones on multiple occasions. New to us, and no doubt […]
Video
Dufrane Travis - a Weird 200m Swiss Automatic Dive Watch - Hand Assembled in Texas
Worn & Wound
Citizen Drops a Pair of Godzilla Themed Ecozillas for the 70th Anniversary of the King of the Monsters
Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster. It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year. The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...
Quill & Pad
Collecting Watches and Cars: What’s The Same and What’s Different?
Cars and watches, watches and cars: they do seem to go together! Scratch almost any watch lover and you’re going to find a car lover just under the surface. GaryG talks with his pal "Enzo" in this interesting discussion about the similarities and dissimilarities of car and watch collecting.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: How The Five Time Zone Shaped Modern Watch Culture
Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet as we know them wouldn't exist without the Jacob & Co. watch that brought horology to hip-hop.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
Video