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New and Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR 05
Bell & Ross new collection: the BR 05, with an integrated case and bracelet design targetted at the luxury sports bandwagon. We take a detailed look.
Results for ETA 2892-A2
3,780 articles · 2,520 videos found · page 142 of 210
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SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel
Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...
Revolution
Very Briefly: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars (Pre-2000, Prices)
A skeletal essentials-only history and price guide to Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watches from the 20th century, in mostly incomplete sentences.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The watch grey market isn’t black and white
If you’ve ever looked to buy a watch on the internet, you will have invariably come across grey market watch websites offering a surprisingly good deal on the watch you are interested in. This leads to several questions about the broader mechanics of watch retail, and the watch grey market: Why would I buy from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The watch grey market isn’t black and white appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed
If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Not Many Microbrands Attempt to Make this Style Watch... Is there a Reason? Cartier Tank Homage
SJX Watches
Business News: Laurent Ferrier’s Controlling Shareholder Takes Charge
Highly regarded for its classically finished timepieces, Laurent Ferrier has just announced a major change in its management – Francois Servanin, who owns most of the company, will be taking management control, alongside Laurent Ferrier and his son Christian. Though only being officially announced today, the news was made known to Laurent Ferrier retailers several weeks ago, with Mr Ferrier himself speaking to several to reassure them that it is a new beginning, with great things to come. An entrepreneur who made his fortune with Auverland, a maker of jeeps and armoured vehicles for the French military, Mr Servanin was an auto racer in the 1970s and 1980s, having competed at Le Mans. It was there that he met Mr Ferrier, himself a former racing driver. Mr Servanin bankrolled the founding of Laurent Ferrier, and has a majority stake in the company. Ferrier father and son – Laurent (left) and Christian The gorgeous Galet Tourbillon movement Taking over from outgoing chief executive Vanessa Monestel, Mr Servanin will be the fourth leader of the brand since it was founded in 2013. The management turnover at Laurent Ferrier has led to the brand losing some of the momentum its enjoyed in its early years, when it was a rising star of old school, Genevois watchmaking; Mr Ferrier had spent a large part of his career at Patek Philippe. Laurent Ferrier’s self-winding calibre Since its first two models – the Galet Tourbillon and Galet Micro-Rotor, both developed with the hel...
Revolution
Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical on Shop.Revolution.Watch
On the introduction of the Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical, The Rake and Revolution are proud to be the exclusive online retailers for a limited period only.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”
Having unveiled commemorative editions from the likes of Audemars Piguet, De Bethune and Urwerk for its 40 years in business, Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass continues the anniversary roll-out with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold. The watch is a variant of the entry-level but appealing Freak X, a remarkable exercise in simplicity and the most affordable version of the Freak to date. But importantly, it manages to be the base model without being a concession, and instead is more of an optimisation, offering a great deal of exotic watchmaking – it boasts the fanciest oscillator of any watch in this price segment – for little money as such things go. While the Freak X forgoes some characteristics of its avant-garde forebear, it is both technically clever and much more refined in design, offering an enhanced practicality by way of a smaller case, a traditional crown, an automatic movement, and most crucially, a high-performance silicon balance wheel – an innovation found only in one other Freak, the pricier Freak Vision. Streamlined mechanics Limited to 30 pieces, the Freak X for The Hour Glass combines a new case material – “Carbonium Gold” – with a striking champagne dial. In contrast to most Freak models that have dark dials, this Freak X has a face in a pale gold which gives it a greater presence on the wrist, but because of its matte, brushed finish, it isn’t loud and manages to be easily wearable. The only downside of t...
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In-depth Review: Hanhart PRIMUS Nautic Pilot Bronze
We take a detailed look at the the Hanhart Nautic Pilot Bronze chronograph launched recently in Munich. We had the watch over a fortnight for our analysis.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase
Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...
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Restoration of a polishing / lapping vise. Watchcase lapping Vise - Part 1 Disassembling
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light
Omega’s latest debut is a surprising one, an incredibly light wristwatch that is also incredibly expensive – traditionally territory held by brands like Richard Mille. Weighing just 55g, or about 10 sheets of A4 printer paper, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light is made almost entirely of titanium, right down to the bridges and plate of the movement. And it retails for US$48,600. Developed in collaboration with Omega ambassador Rory McIlroy, a four-time majors champion and former world number one, the Aqua Terra Ultra Light is ostensibly conceived to be worn by athletes during competitions. A new(ish) alloy The case is 41mm but made from what Omega calls Gamma Titanium, which is actually titanium aluminide (TiAl), a relatively new titanium alloy that’s prized for its hardness and corrosion-resistance, even at high temperatures. That’s why it’s used for the blades of jet engines, amongst other things. Because the watch is meant to be worn by sportsmen, the crown is recessed and telescopic. It sits almost flush with the case when not in use, but a gentle push pops it out for winding and setting. And the dial is also titanium, but fashioned from a more common grade 5 alloy. It’s is finished with the signature horizontal fluting of the Aqua Terra range. The first titanium movement More unusually, the cal. 8928 Ti inside is also made mostly of titanium. The bridges and base plate are made of ceramised titanium, which is titanium coated with ceramic. The movem...
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium
A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”
The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot
A Singapore retailer that focuses on affordable, unusual timepieces, Red Army Watches (RAW) is marking its 15th year in business with a series of limited editions, made in collaboration with brands that personify its ethos. Last month the Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” was launched, and this month sees the debut of the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot, an all-black aviator’s watch. Stowa is, of course, the German watchmaker that is well loved for its accessible watches, mostly priced below US$1500. The brand was resurrected by its current owner, Jorge Schauer, in 1997, but was first established in 1927 by Walter Storz; the brand name is a contraction of “STOrz WAlter”. In its original incarnation Stowa was one of the five watch brands that supplied the oversized beobachtungshr, or B-Uhr for short, to the Luftwaffe, the German air force of the second world war. A smaller, contemporary B-Uhr Watches inspired by the vintage B-Uhr are now a key model line for Stowa, and the RAW Darth Pilot is based on the standard Stowa Verus, which is a modern take on the original Baumuster A B-Uhr. Compared to the vintage original, all the dial markings are larger, while the typography and hashmarks are rounded, as are the hands, giving it a more modern look. Most aviator-style watches are oversized and chunky, but the standard Verus is a compact 40mm in diameter (Stowa also offers an extra-large 43mm version of the Verus). And the all-black finish gives it an even smaller...
Time+Tide
Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris
Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A Stylish Watch With An Impressive Movement For The Price - Frederique Constant Classics Premiere
SJX Watches
Interview: Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin
Over the past five years, a new generation of bosses has taken over the watch world. Many share common traits that distinguish them from the preceding generation of chieftains: a charming informality and a nose for courting the next generation of consumers – millennial and otherwise. Patrick Pruniaux is a leading member of his class, who was tapped to run Ulysse Nardin in August 2017. A year later, he was elevated to run Kering’s watch division, which meant taking on leadership of Girard-Perregaux as well. Mr Pruniaux has done a remarkable job of revitalising Ulysse Nardin – not just with fresh marketing, but more crucially with new watches that make sense. He’s streamlined the range of offerings and introduced more accessible watches, with much of his efforts focused on arguably the most important Ulysse Nardin watch of the modern era – the Freak. His strategy for the Freak is notable for being all-encompassing, ranging from aggressively affordable pricing with the Freak X, while pushing hard at the boundaries of material science and engineering, culminating in the Freak NeXt. The Freak X Mr Pruniaux took a surprisingly roundabout way to arrive at one of the top jobs in watchmaking. He started in drinks and spirits at Diageo and then Moët-Hennessey. He then entered the watch business with TAG Heuer, where he rose to lead retail and sales. But the most instructive phase of his watchmaking career, ironically, was at Apple. The computer maker r...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse”
Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...
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Review: Textures and Colours – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Slate
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Slate, now with a hand-engraved slate grey dial.
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An exploration in details: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante
A close look at the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Huracán Performante, inspired by this iconic Lamborghini supercar. We examine the details and ask if its worthy.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity
As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement. Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...
Video
The Most Popular PRX Dial Now At A New Size - PRX Glacier Blue 35mm
Time+Tide
I went to my first watch auction, here’s what I found
I was equal parts excited and curious when a package from Sotheby’s Australia landed on Felix’s desk last month. Upon opening, it revealed a catalogue for their upcoming Important Jewels auction, and while the jewellery portion of the catalogue was full of fabulous gems and precious metals, I was obviously much more interested in the … ContinuedThe post I went to my first watch auction, here’s what I found appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Very Briefly: Rolex Explorer (Vintage, Pricing)
A skeletal essentials-only guide to the Rolex Explorer, in mostly incomplete sentences.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Prospex SPB105 Dive Watch
A green dial variant of the 2018 modern reinterpretation of the famous Seiko 6159.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition
IWC’s popular, oversized pilot’s watch is already available in as many variations as the sky is high, but the latest limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch “Right-Hander” – is the first that’s a “destro”. Italian for “right”, destro is a nickname often applies to watches with a left-handed crown, and thus catered to right-handed people. Because the onion-shaped crown sits at nine o’clock instead of the usual three, the movement inside has been rotated 180 degrees, bringing the power reserve indicator to nine o’clock as well. For those wondering if this is inspired by a historical, “destro” pilot’s watch, the answer is no. This is just a reinterpretation of a bestselling model. Crown-aside, the look is pretty much stock Big Pilot. The dial is a dark grey, with luminous markings and hands in white SuperLuminova. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model. The steel case is 46.2mm in diameter, with automatic cal. 52010 inside. It’s the second generation of the flagship IWC automatic movement, featuring a seven-day power reserve and a Pellaton winding mechanism with its pawls and winding wheels in wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts Diameter: 46.2mm Height: 15.6mm Material: Steel Water-resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 52010 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 168 hours (7 days) Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp Price and availab...
SJX Watches
See the George Daniels Space Traveller II at London’s Science Museum
Almost exactly a month ago at Sotheby’s in London, the George Daniels Space Traveller I sold for £3.62m, or about US$4.56m at the time, including all fees. It became the most expensive English watch ever sold, breaking the record set by the second Space Traveller that sold in the same venue two years earlier. After the landmark 2017 sale, the Space Traveller II disappeared into private hands somewhere in the United Kingdom. Now it has reemerged at the Science Museum in London, where it will be on display for at least three years. Made entirely by hand, as were all his watches, the Space Traveller II was produced after Daniels had sold the first version of the watch, which he greatly regretted. Along with the Grand Complication, the second Space Traveller was worn by Daniels until the end of his life. The first Space Traveller The first Space Traveller was conceived to commemorate the Moon landing of 1969, which is why it displays both mean solar time – the usual 24 hour day we use on Earth – as well as sidereal time, which is time based on the Earth’s rotation around the Sun. Once Daniels embarked on making the second Space Traveller to replace the first, he endeavoured to make it more complex, incorporating his proprietary “compact chronograph” mechanism. But it is no ordinary stopwatch, because the chronograph in the Space Traveller II can switch between mean solar time and sidereal time thanks to a clutch mechanism. “It is fitting that this stunning ...
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