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The enthusiast-minded Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver hits on an interesting point in Zodiac’s modern history

This tasteful collaborative piece harkens back to the Zodiac Point Series of the 90s, while featuring some enthusiast-minded modern touches.The post The enthusiast-minded Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver hits on an interesting point in Zodiac’s modern history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing - The Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, a Tribute to his First Watch

One of the most revered and respected names in the world of watchmaking, and certainly in the independent watchmaking scene, is Kari Voutilainen. The Finnish watchmaker is an expert in ‘wrapping’ the most brilliantly hand-finished movements in beautiful discrete cases with tear-drop lugs. With 20 years of track record as an Independent watchmaker and more […]

COSC, METAS or TIMELAB? Why Chronometry Still Matters Despite Atomic Time

First Look - The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]

TAG Heuer Introduces Updated Aquaracers

It feels like not too long ago, TAG Heuer had completely revamped their Aquaracer line of dive watches, and for the most part, they were well received by the public at large. However, many collectors felt they had not gone far enough, especially with their 300m Professional series. TAG Heuer has listened and updated for 2024, with tweaked and revamped versions of the Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT.  At first glance, you may quickly mistake these for the previous generation, but rest assured, the refinements are there, and they are considerable. Let us begin with what they have kept. The general shape of the watch is identical to the previous one, however they have slightly downsized the case from 43mm to 42mm. This may not be too noticeable, though proportions feel enhanced. They have also kept the quirky and unique polygonal hour indices, as well as the color matched ceramic bezels with a blue lumed triangle at the 60-minute mark. The latter matches the lume color on the minute hand, while everything else glows green, as it did before. The bracelet also remains the same and it retains the tremendous on-the-fly micro-adjustable clasp, which was introduced with the prior incarnation. The case back still features the neat diver’s helmet engraving and is screwed down by a proprietary key. Lug-to-lug length has been shortened by 2mm and is now 48mm, which should make these watches even easier to wear for more people. These new models will be available in black, blu...

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.

A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...

Louis Roederer Champagne Collection 244 and History

The Louis Roederer Collection, current release being the 244 is one of the great buys in Champagne today, but it is also so much more. Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon is at the forefront of what can only be seen as a seismic change in the way champagne operates, especially regarding their non-vintage wines.

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph

Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo.  The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants.  The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...

Introducing: The G-Shock GMW-B5000D-2 And GM-B2100AD-2A

Full-metal versions of G-Shock’s Square and CasiOak models are among the most popular watches in the lineup. The first all-steel G-Shock “Square” was presented at the Baselworld fair in 2018, and an all-steel “CasiOak” had to wait until 2022 to see the light. These premium models are much appreciated and in great demand. After some […] Visit Introducing: The G-Shock GMW-B5000D-2 And GM-B2100AD-2A to read the full article.

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024 celebrates 120 years with a lighthearted yet blacked-out Divers Sixty-Five

Fully stealthy, but not taking itself seriously must've been the design brief for this one.The post The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024 celebrates 120 years with a lighthearted yet blacked-out Divers Sixty-Five appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Oris Turns The Divers Sixty-Five All-Black For Its 2024 Hölstein Edition

For this year's annual celebration, Oris gives the Divers Sixty-Five the DLC treatment.

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak

Good things come in teeny tiny packages.

First Look - Holthinrichs Launches the Signature Series, its new Entry-Level Model

One of the now well-established independent watchmakers of the Dutch scene, Holthinrichs has been from the earliest stages of its development focused on a rather unique feature; 3D-printed cases made in all sorts of materials (including steel, titanium, bronze or gold). Of course, there’s more to the brand than just that, including a strong design […]

Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series

Last November, Morgan and I visited the cozy Holthinrichs atelier on one of Delft’s picturesque canals. There, we had the chance to go hands-on with the brand’s new Deconstructed models and talk to the founder, Michiel Holthinrichs. We got to know the brand a little better and got a good look at those impressive watches. […] Visit Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series to read the full article.

First Look - Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

“The Cut will be the first time men are going to take their wife’s watch.” Hermès launch Cut collection in the Greek Islands

Hermès Horloger Creative Director Philippe Delhortal explains trends, and what the Cut represents.The post “The Cut will be the first time men are going to take their wife’s watch.” Hermès launch Cut collection in the Greek Islands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide

As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  The post Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

New: F.P.Journe Chronographe FB for the 20th Anniversary of the Boutique in Tokyo

In celebration of the 20th Aniversary of the F.P.Journe Boutique in Tokyo, the maison releases a new chronograph which they call the Chornographe FB.

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco

Once again, TAG Heuer has released a new Monaco chronograph to celebrate the running of the Monaco Grand Prix, which took place over the weekend in, you guessed it, Monaco. While it’s surely a bit on-the-nose to unveil a new chronograph that is named after the race itself on race weekend, we’ll forgive TAG here given the simple fact that the Monaco Grand Prix’s place in our culture. If it’s not one of the most watched races in the world, it’s certainly one of the most recognizable and well known. The word “Monaco” to many will immediately conjure images of the race, unless it’s heard by a watch collector, in which case iconic square cased chrono is likely to be front of mind. In any event, not introducing a new Monaco on race weekend would likely amount to a tactical error on TAG Heuer’s part, given the intense focus on F1 over the weekend.  The new watch is effectively a new variant of the watch released last year, which introduced skeleton dials to the Monaco collection with brightly colored accents and lightweight titanium cases. Here we have a DLC coated titanium case measuring 39mm across and 15.2mm tall, with a skeletonized dial featuring dark blue and bright yellow accents. Skeleton dials can, of course, sometimes be a bit difficult to read, but time-telling on the skeletonized Monaco is fairly straightforward with sharp white minute markers at the perimeter of the blue minute ring, and oversized lume filled hour markers set against the Caliber 02...

First Look - The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

While most have the highly successful and appealing Aikon collection in mind, the brand’s vision of an accessible luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Maurice Lacroix has more items on the menu. Specifically, there’s a watch that we’ve long appreciated here at MONOCHROME, a rather unique take on the diver with a bit of […]

Happenings: The American Museum Of Natural History Opens Ice Cold: An Exhibition Of Hip-Hop Jewelry And Watches

Author Vikki Tobak and the American Natural History Museum chronicle the evolution of jewelry and timepieces in hip-hop over the past five decades.

The MB&F; LM Sequential Upgraded with a Flyback

In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function.  Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...

IWC Manufactures the World’s First Luminous Watch with Pioneering Ceralume Technology

Obituary: Antoine Simonin, WOSTEP Director, Educator, and Bookseller

Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bell & Ross Diver Black & Green Bronze

We go hands on with the Bell & Ross Diver Bronze and see how the new Black & Green colourway fairs, not to mention what the patina is like! What We Love The gold hue of the bronze case The matte green dial is silky smooth Completely different look to most other watches on the market What We Don’t The strap is a little bulky for my liking The date window could be slightly larger The bronze patinas quickly Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 My first proper Hands On experience with Bell & Ross was with the Cyber Ceramic we reviewed in March this year. If you read the review (and if you haven’t, click the link and give it a read first, I’ll wait!) you’ll probably note that I wasn’t too sure on how I’d feel about an all black, square-shaped watch on my wrist. After all, I’m not that much into fully blacked-out pieces nor do I have a love for square-shaped watches. I’ve nothing against them at all, it’s just not my style…normally! But the Cyber Ceramic changed this, as after having it on my wrist for a week or more, I came to love the piece for what it was and quietly, liked having a watch on my wrist that was completely different to most other pieces out there, and not something you’ll see in the wild all that often. You’ll also note I mentioned that the watch I originally wanted to receive for the review was the recently released Diver Black & Green Bronze. Mostly for personal reasons –...

A Week in Watches Ep. 81: The Return of the Ming Diver

Happy Memorial Day Weekend! While, yes, there is a genuine day of remembrance on Monday, it’s also the weekend that unofficially marks the beginning of Summer. So, you’re probably enjoying your relaxing Sunday morning and having a cup of coffee. And what goes perfectly with coffee? A Week in Watches, of course! On episode 81, we discuss some rather Summer-y new releases from Zodiac, Vertex, and Ming, as well as the new Toledano and Chan. The latter is more of a somber Winter morning, but we’ll let that slide. If you enjoy this episode, please like and subscribe; we appreciate it! This week’s episode is brought to you by William Wood, who is celebrating the release of their new Dunkirk watch. Continuing William Wood’s inspired homages to fire fighting, the Swiss-made bronze nautical watch is in collaboration with the Massey Shaw. This London fire brigade boat rescued over 600 lives off the beaches of Dunkirk in World War II. Head to WilliamWoodWatches.com to learn more and make a purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 81: The Return of the Ming Diver appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Buying Guide - Six Recently Uncovered Independent Watchmaking Brands You Might Not Have Heared Of (Yet)

For regular readers, it’s no real surprise that we have a deep-rooted passion for indie watchmaking; in fact, it is the very reason for our existence. Although we tend to cover much more than high-end artisanal watchmaking, independent watchmaking forms part of our core. Uncovering new brands and projects from all corners of the globe genuinely […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Rise of “Bromakase,” a Very Rare Leica Collectible, and a New Everest Film in the Works

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Rise of “Bromakase” An interesting article in the New York Times this week for anyone with a passing intereste in sushi or the restaurant world in general: writer Brett Anderson dives deep into the phenomenon some have  termed “Bromakase,” a strange combination of the traditional omakase experience you’d have in a great sushi restaurant with the flash and glitz of a modern, big city steakhouse. These two ideas are really on polar opposite ends of the dining spectrum. Omakase at its best is a tranquil experience with great food prepared expertly but simply. But that concept has been tweaked in recent years by upstart chefs all over the United States, adding theater and conspicuous consumption (think blowtorching marrow and Wagyu beef topped with caviar for no reason in particular) to the menu. A possible inflection point was the rise of Sushi Nakazawa, the famed NYC omakase spot, which brought a new type of diner into the premium sushi world once it became one of the trendiest restaurants in the world.  How to Steal a Tesla The “relay attack” has been called the mod...