Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

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SJX Watches

Greubel Forsey Introduces Apr 6, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillons, Greubel Forsey builds movements with unique three-dimensionality and exemplary finishing. In 2019, it started applying its unusual brand of watchmaking to the sports watch for the first time with the GMT Sport – a world time with inclined tourbillon – and now follows up with the new GMT Sport that has the same movement but the addition of an integrated titanium bracelet, a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch may be new for Greubel Forsey, it’s now a familiar and fashionable concept. Greubel Forsey is relatively late to the party – beyond veterans like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, such sports watches are already found at almost every price point, from Citizen’s US$2,000 Series 8 to the Lange Odysseus. That said, the GMT Sport is noteworthy for one simple reason – it’s the most complicated, and perhaps best finished, integrated-bracelet sports watch money can buy, combining a world time, dual time, and an inclined tourbillon. So while Greubel Forsey took its time with the concept, the brand certainly executed it in style. I much prefer the new GMT Sport over the earlier version. For one, the bezel is now plain, devoid of the tiny, relief inscriptions that are something of a Greubel Forsey signature but don’t quite work on a sports watch. The dial is now entirely in blue, giving the new GMT Sport a more modern look (that admittedly is also fashionable given the popular...

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Time+Tide

Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Apr 5, 2021

INTRODUCING: A trio of new Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards watches

Seiko is known for reliable, robust and value-driven offerings – undercutting the prices of their competitors without compromising quality. They are also known for their creative collaborations, incorporating popular culture like Naruto anime into their designs. Today, their latest partnership is with the popular Japanese skate brand Evisen in the new Seiko 5 Sports X … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A trio of new Seiko 5 Sports X Evisen Skateboards watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

MB&F; Apr 5, 2021

The Man Behind the Incredible LM Perpetual, Stephen McDonnell

Stephen McDonnell shares his story of unusual beginnings as an Oxford student of theology into the world of watchmaking, developing a passion that would lead him through the doors of MB&F;, where he would take on a more-than-a-century-old dilemma and come out triumphant.

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Revolution

Apr 1, 2021

The Rules of (Chronograph) Engagement

Demystifying chronograph movements, along with a balanced view on the horizontal vs vertical clutch debate.

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Time+Tide

Apr 1, 2021

Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock

Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry. But not satisfied with its extraordinary dominance, the brand is now reportedly looking to expand its watch portfolio. The company has explored many materials, including aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, ceramics, and even 18K gold. Throughout these designs their case profile has remained largely unchanged, … ContinuedThe post Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch Mar 29, 2021

Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender

Grand Seiko has been around for over 60 years, but within the last decade the brand is slowly (yet exponentially) growing its presence throughout the watch community and the world. The brand is known by enthusiasts for their high-value craftsmanship, offering more black polished components than most Swiss brands – and at a fraction of … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Snowflake versus White Birch: the battle between the classic and contender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Mar 27, 2021

Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator

Best known for affordable complications, Frederique Constant’s recent watches include a flyback chronograph for US$4,000 and a perpetual calendar for a bit under US$10,000. But the brand has also applied modern technology to its watchmaking with its analog smartwatches. The brand’s latest offering is cutting-edge horology, but in a mechanical movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is equipped with an automatic movement that runs at 40 Hz, or 288,000 beats per hour (bph), thanks to a compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator instead of a balance wheel. Initial thoughts It’s a pleasant surprise to see Frederique Constant delving into advanced horological solutions with its silicon compliant mechanism and entering a space often associated with pricier brands like Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. Even more impressive is the fact that the movement is not just as a concept, but a commercially available watch that will be in stores in fall of this year and priced relatively affordably, starting at €4,495, or about US$5,300, in steel. The advanced movement leaves the design of the Monolithic Manufacture incongruous with its classical styling and a truly modern oscillator. However, as such watches go, the design is not the point – it is all about the novel escapement that will certainly pique the interest of technical-minded enthusiasts. Hi-tech collab The high-frequency silicon oscillator was born of a collaboration with Flexous, a startup focused on compliant mechanis...

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Time+Tide

Fears Mar 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement

Fears Watch Company is a big part of the renaissance of British watchmaking and yet another sign of the new roaring 20s as UK horology continues to regain its momentum. The most important model in the Fears catalogue is the Brunswick and I had the impression that it peaked with the beguiling vertical striations on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko s Innovative Chronographs Here’s Mar 24, 2021

The Story of Seiko’s Innovative Chronographs

Here’s a look at the golden era of Seiko’s chronographs, from the first wrist stopwatch through to the last advanced movements the Japanese brand made before shifting to quartz in the 1980s.

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Time+Tide

Mar 22, 2021

INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations

Watch enthusiasm is initially generated by the product – there’s no doubt that the art of watchmaking and the many resulting creations are the main draw that hooks people in. But what really sustains the hobby, and helps it grow, is the sense of community in watches. Within #watchfam there are many collecting groups dedicated … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

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SJX Watches

A. Lange & Sohne Mar 16, 2021

Conversation: Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne

Having taken charge in A. Lange & Söhne at the end of 2010 – while the brand was still suffering from the effects of the 2007-2008 Financial Crisis – Wilhelm Schmid has now been the German watchmaker’s chief executive for a bit over a decade. He did not join Lange from within watchmaking, instead he was recruited from a German luxury brand of another sort, the carmaker BMW. But in the decade since Mr Schmid has carefully and steadily developed the brand, and in the process become one of the longest-tenured – and highly regarded – leaders in the watch industry. From its modern-day foundation in 1994, Lange made watches of first-class quality. That, along with the ethos of the brand, has been preserved, but at the same time, Mr Schmid has deftly evolved the brand’s image, in both product and communication – the Odysseus being an obvious example – bringing its peerless quality recognition amongst a broader audience. The brand’s success in recent years has translated into robust demand for its products – a good problem to have but one that Mr Schmid apologises for, as you’ll find out below. I spoke with Mr Schmid over Zoom last month, and enjoyed a wide ranging conversation that looked back on the last 10 years, as well as forward, where he notes e-commerce is now a certainty for Lange, but online exclusives are not. Zooming with the Odysseus The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: How has Lange been coping with the disruptions of 2020? Wil...

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Time+Tide

Studio Underd0g Mar 14, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again

Studio Underd0g have a refreshingly playful approach to watchmaking. As the British microbrand explain on their website. “When the biggest news in the watch-world for 2020 is that a certain brand (that shall not be named) had increased their case size by an unfathomable 1mm it got us thinking… Why… so… serious…? Don’t worry, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 10, 2021

EVENT: 5 rare high-complication watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a stunning vineyard setting

Jaeger-LeCoultre are known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker with good reason. Over their nearly 190-year history, the brand has produced movements used by most major Swiss watch brands with more than 1000 calibers developed over that time. And while 2021 is all about the Reverso as the brand celebrates the 90th anniversary of the famous design, … ContinuedThe post EVENT: 5 rare high-complication watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a stunning vineyard setting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Revolution

Rolex Shined Through 2020 Mar 10, 2021

The Ultimate Winner: How Rolex Shined Through 2020

With a 26.8 percent market share Rolex SA has trumped Swatch group (at 25.2 percent) to become the world’s largest watchmaking company.

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SJX Watches

Cartier Debuts Mar 10, 2021

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications

Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...

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Time+Tide

Seiko 140th Anniversary from Mar 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron.

It’s 140 years since Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori established his first watchmaking shop in Tokyo. To mark this occasion, the Seiko designers must’ve had a craving for menthol judging by the icy cool aesthetics of the Seiko 140th Anniversary collection. Seiko 5 Sports 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPG47K1 Let’s kick off with the most accessible … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard Unveils Mar 4, 2021

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only

Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...

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Revolution

Mar 4, 2021

The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement: 1940s–1980s

Historic calibres from the 1940s to 1980s that powered some of the greatest chronographs in watchmaking.

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Deployant

Citizen Mechanical debuting Mar 4, 2021

The Citizen Mechanical: debuting a new caliber 0200. Hands-on review.

Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer x Porsche pop-up Mar 3, 2021

EVENT: If you’ve got a need for speed the TAG Heuer x Porsche pop-up is a watch-lover’s delight

At the start of last month, TAG Heuer announced a partnership with a pretty special brand: Porsche. Why you might ask? What’s the difference between this and any old automotive / watchmaking relationship? The difference lies in the closely linked histories of these two brands, both united by a passion for going fast and the … ContinuedThe post EVENT: If you’ve got a need for speed the TAG Heuer x Porsche pop-up is a watch-lover’s delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Omega Speedmaster Mar 2, 2021

Nick Jonas shows he’s a serious watch guy with this Omega Speedmaster in Canopus Gold on Saturday Night Live

As a watch enthusiast and journalist, I get excited when I see celebrities sporting coveted timepieces on their wrists. More often than not we see the greatest hits from the usual suspects, but on the most recent episode of Saturday Night Live, Nick Jonas made #watchfam really proud. Nick has a clear appreciation for watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post Nick Jonas shows he’s a serious watch guy with this Omega Speedmaster in Canopus Gold on Saturday Night Live appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Feb 26, 2021

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

An annual event organised by F.P. Journe, the Young Talent Competition (YTC) represents the watchmaker’s efforts in identifying and nurturing the best watchmakers of tomorrow. Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30, and either graduates of watchmaking school or self taught. According to F.P. Journe, participants “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. The winner will be selected by a jury “based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realisation, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics.” Last year’s winner was a young Japanese watchmaker who presented an unusual pocket watch of his own reaction. The 2020 winner, Norifumi Seki of Japan The prize is a grant of CHF20,000 sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and a certificate signed by members of the jury, which will be comprised of industry notables. The 2019 contest, for instance, was judged by a panel that included independent watchmakers Philippe Dufour and Andreas Strehler. Any watchmaker who wants to submit an entry can do so online on fpjourne.com.  

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Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Feb 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum

The Grand Seiko brand and the Seiko Corporation have a lot to celebrate this year. Across Seiko brands, the collections have seen growth all around the globe with more and more people gaining respect and admiration for the Japanese manufacturer, even in the most inclement of market conditions. Last evening, at the global Seiko summit, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SLGH007 with “Annual Growth Tree Rings” dial in platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Bulgari Feb 22, 2021

5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week

When Italians make Swiss watches, we are always in for a treat. Martin Green thinks this has something to do with many Italians being very passionate about mechanics and design being something of a religion there. Bulgari has been successfully blending these two main elements for decades, and at the virtual 2021 LVMH Watch Week the brand showed that it continues to excel at it. Here, Martin highlights five of his favorite new watches from the digital fair.

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Time+Tide

Patek Philippe World Time or Feb 19, 2021

The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art

When you think of art in watchmaking, your mind probably turns to the painstaking creation of a cloisonné enamel dial for a Patek Philippe World Time, or the engraving of an A.Lange & Söhne balance cock. But art in watchmaking suddenly got a whole lot more accessible thanks to the Swatch x MoMA collection that … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Deployant

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit Feb 16, 2021

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen – limited edition

Detailed review of the new Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, featuring the combination traditional Chinese timekeeping and Swiss horology.

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Feb 16, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense

Collaboration has become the name of the game. Be it in music, fashion or watchmaking, we’ve never seen such a diverse meeting of minds from around the world. But many collaborations leave you scratching your head, especially when two brands that have nothing in common come together to make a product that doesn’t make sense. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia Named chief Feb 15, 2021

Interview: Stefanie Ng, CEO Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia

Named chief executive officer of Audemars Piguet (AP) in Southeast Asia at the end of 2019, Stefanie Ng was in charge of the brand’s marketing efforts in the region before being tapped for the top job. A respected industry insider whose first job was in watchmaking, Ms Ng is now responsible for one of the fastest-growing regions at one of the best-performing luxury-watch brands. With many pandemic restrictions lifted, I sat down with Ms Ng for a chat earlier in the year, where she explained what has kept her at AP for almost all of her career, and also provided some hints as to the watchmaker’s upcoming launches. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You were appointed CEO of AP in the region in October 2019. Tell us a bit about your career before that. I started my career in the watch industry, at Swatch Group, first at Breguet, and then at Blancpain and CK Calvin Klein, where I did marketing. So the world of luxury watches was familiar when I joined AP as the regional marketing manager, [a role] you would call brand manager today. I handled all marketing activities across Southeast Asia, that’s eight to nine countries, for eight years. You have been at AP for most of your career. What has kept you there? The company and its people. Its values and direction have given me interesting perspectives on the watch industry, while helping expand my horizons, first as a marketer, and then as a leader. And of course, it’s also the brand – AP is where I feel at...

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Feb 8, 2021

Seiko Unveils the Forest-Green Prospex Anniversary Divers

With 2021 being its 140th anniversary, Seiko is going all out to commemorate the milestone. Getting an early start with the first anniversary edition announced last year, the Japanese watchmaker kicked off the series with a Grand Seiko in rose gold, followed by a revival of the King Seiko. Now it has just announced a trio of Prospex dive watches, made up of a pair of automatics (SLA047 and SPB207), and a solar-powered chronograph (SSC807). Inspired by Iriomote Island – a popular spot for recreational diving – the new Prospex watches feature vibrant, metallic green dials meant to evoke the lush landscape of the island in Okinawa. Initial thoughts The anniversary divers are good value for money, as most Seiko watches are, and also have the bonus of an appealing dial colour. But as is often the case with newer Seiko limited edition models, each of the new divers is merely one of many similar editions, which makes them less special individually. The priciest model is the Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047, a Marinemaster 300 m diver based on the Hi-Beat diver of 1968. A top-of-the-line dive watch, the SLA047 is powered by the 8L35, essentially a simpler version of the 9S55 Grand Seiko movement. And like Seiko’s other high-end mechanical watches, it is produced in the Shizukuishi facility, which is also home to the workshop for mechanical Grand Seiko watches. Other highlights include a 300 m water-resistance rating thanks in part to an unusual monocoque case, and a ce...

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