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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m SJX Watches
Nov 5, 2021

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m

One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.  

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Nov 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm

They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Nov 4, 2021

Auction Watch: A Pair of Highly Important Pocket Watches

Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the  fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 which secured Nov 4, 2021

Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction

You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 2, 2021

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1

Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...

Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode… Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 2, 2021

Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode…

Succession has almost zero characters with redeeming qualities. For the most part the Roy family and those in their orbit are complete assholes. Each scene may as well be set in a garden in Westeros, the veiled take on the Murdoch family revealing endless backstabbing, traded insults, and nothing that resembles conventional family love. One … ContinuedThe post Rollie Moly! Cousin Greg falls foul of a dodgy Rolex in Succession’s latest episode… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity Quill & Pad
Oct 31, 2021

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more Time+Tide
Rolex sports watch While that’s Oct 30, 2021

Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more

In many ways, dress watches have become an overlooked genre in the watch world. While manufactures haven’t forgotten them, we certainly don’t see the same hype surrounding the latest Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso release as we do for, say, a new Rolex sports watch. While that’s not to knock Rolex by any means (I’m guilty of … ContinuedThe post Don’t kid yourself desk diver: Why you should wear dress watches more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster Time+Tide
Cartier Roadster Editor’s Note We Oct 30, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster

Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Reprise Bell & Ross’s Oct 30, 2021

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise

Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!

Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval? Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 6538 Oct 30, 2021

Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval?

Ever since Sean Connery’s Jame Bond emerged from the ocean in Goldfinger and peeled off his wetsuit to reveal a tuxedo beneath, the question has always been there: should you wear a diving watch with formalwear? (Bond was wearing the Rolex Submariner ref 6538 by the way.) The question arises following the recent launch of … ContinuedThe post Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.