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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

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HANDS ON: The Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow is redefining the dress watch with some serious playfulness Time+Tide
Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow Feb 3, 2021

HANDS ON: The Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow is redefining the dress watch with some serious playfulness

At a time when there is limited opportunity for travellers to jet around the world, there is a perverse brilliance in the timing of the British designed, Swiss-made Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow – a source of much-needed light at the end of the tunnel, and that’s before we even mention the lume factor.  The genesis … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow is redefining the dress watch with some serious playfulness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmaker Bradley Taylor Debuts with the Paragon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 1, 2021

Watchmaker Bradley Taylor Debuts with the Paragon

Young Canadian watchmaker Bradley Taylor has just made his debut with the Paragon. Having trained as a watchmaker in Switzerland, as well as gaining Patek Philippe and Hublot watchmaking certification, Mr Taylor’s eponymous brand grew out of his earlier venture, a two-man partnership similarly focused on a concise, well-executed watch. Very much a made-in-Canada wristwatch, the Paragon is a classical time-only that’s assembled and partially finished by Mr Taylor in his home workshop. Mr Taylor produces the hands himself, while most of the other components are produced by specialists in Switzerland, including Comblémine, the dial maker owned by Kari Voutilainen. But Mr Taylor has been careful to incorporate local details into the watch. Canadian graphic designer Ian Brignell was responsible for the Paragon’s Arabic numerals, and even the square-slot case back screws are Canadian in origin. The Paragon in purple and pale blue Initial thoughts There are times when it feels like the luxury-watch has become too successful for its own good – endless waitlists and steep price premiums for the hottest watches, as well as astronomical results at auction. At the same time, consumers often seem more concerned with resale value rather than the intrinsic value of craft. So it’s heartening to see the rise of niche independent watchmakers in the US$20,000-ish price range, such as Kikuchi Nakagawa, and now Bradley Taylor. Their work reminds me what watchmaking can be – the...

Ox-fresh: Celebrate Chinese New Year with wristworn art from Blancpain to Swatch Time+Tide
Blancpain Jan 30, 2021

Ox-fresh: Celebrate Chinese New Year with wristworn art from Blancpain to Swatch

The Swiss maisons are at it again, bringing their entire arsenal of craftsmanship to celebrate the Chinese New Year. As we all know, the Chinese market is huge and a great reason for watch brands to bring out the big guns. By big guns, however, we really mean the opposite here, as tiny instruments and … ContinuedThe post Ox-fresh: Celebrate Chinese New Year with wristworn art from Blancpain to Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss SJX Watches
Longines Jan 28, 2021

Business News: Swatch Group Posts Full-Year Loss

From a robust profit of CHF748m the year prior, Swatch Group ended 2020 with a net loss of CHF53m – the first in decades for the Swiss watch conglomerate that owns brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot. This reversal of fortune was attributed to the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced many of its retail stores to close while putting a halt to international travel. On an operating level, Swatch Group eked out a tiny CHF52m profit – compared to CHF1.02 billion the year before. The year’s results were mitigated by an improvement in the second half of 2020, with sales in the second half of the year rose 54.7% compared to the previous six months, as economic activity resumed in Asia with pandemic restrictions lifted, particularly in China, which experience double-digit growth for the full year. And the Swatch Group also had to face a virus of the digital kind in the second half of the year. Reported in information-technology news but not in the mainstream press, the group suffered a cyber attack in September, leading to a mention of “a 10-day production interruption” at Omega in the results announcement. Hit harder than most With jewellery selling better than luxury watches, fellow Swiss rival Richemont was buoyed by its pair of jewellery brands that helped plug the hole caused by its faltering watch division. Although Swatch Group owns American jeweller Harry Winston, the bulk of its revenue is generated by watches and watch components. Net sales fell to CHF5.59 bil...

HANDS-ON: The Farer Field Watch Collection lets you have your cake and eat it too (Mmmm…cake) Time+Tide
Farer Field Watch Collection lets Jan 28, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Farer Field Watch Collection lets you have your cake and eat it too (Mmmm…cake)

Vintage-inspired watches have been selling like hotcakes for a few years now, and there’s no sign of their popularity slowing down. And to be honest, I can understand why. Design from the golden age of watchmaking in the middle of last century, blended with all of the perks of modern watchmaking – what’s not to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Farer Field Watch Collection lets you have your cake and eat it too (Mmmm…cake) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 26, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black

Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming Time+Tide
Grand Seiko watches from 2020 Jan 23, 2021

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming

Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in … ContinuedThe post Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 Time+Tide
Bulgari releases Jan 20, 2021

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020

Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter … ContinuedThe post My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman Time+Tide
Jan 19, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman

When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze SJX Watches
Zenith Elite base movement Jan 19, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze

Synonymous with avant-garde watchmaking, Urwerk’s best-known complication is its reinterpretation of the centuries-old wandering hours, executed in both two- and three-dimensional motion. Just over a year ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-100 SpaceTime, an easily-wearable, entry-level iteration of the satellite-disc wristwatch. Now the brand has taken the covers off the UR-100V T-Rex. Perhaps the most interesting version of the UR-100 to date, the T-Rex has an aged bronze case covered in a pronounced hobnail pattern that evokes the Tyrannosaurus rex. More notably, the “V” suffix in the model name indicates the Zenith Elite base movement in the original UR-100 has been replaced with a Vaucher automatic. Initial thoughts Still original despite being some two decades old, the satellite hours remains the brand’s forte. And the UR-100 is arguably the most compelling version of the watch in recent year, being both the most affordable and wearable. That probably explains why the UR-100 has sold well, resulting in the brand rolling out several variants in a short span of time, ranging from basic version in steel or titanium to the top of the line model in 18k yellow gold. But the UR-100 is at heart a pared-back design, simpler in form than the brand’s early watches, which are mostly more elaborate in the case construction. So the milled scales on the bronze case of the T-Rex sets it apart from other UR-100s – both in aesthetics and tactile feel – giving it an edgy look...

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 Time+Tide
Citizen filling Jan 18, 2021

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: How this 27-year-old beat a deadly virus, opiate addiction and depression to build a mechanical watch by hand Time+Tide
Jan 17, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: How this 27-year-old beat a deadly virus, opiate addiction and depression to build a mechanical watch by hand

If you are a regular reader of Time+Tide you might be familiar with Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots. Reuben and I are the same age at 27 years old, but whereas I have yet to finish my copy of Watchmaking by George Daniels, Reuben is on the precipice of finishing his very own watch – built … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How this 27-year-old beat a deadly virus, opiate addiction and depression to build a mechanical watch by hand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain gave birth Jan 14, 2021

Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch

Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts Jan 13, 2021

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again

Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...

Breguet Tradition, Classique, And Reine De Naples Writing Instruments: Inspired By Haute Horlogerie Quill & Pad
Breguet Tradition Classique Jan 6, 2021

Breguet Tradition, Classique, And Reine De Naples Writing Instruments: Inspired By Haute Horlogerie

Breguet writing instruments round out the Swiss brand's elegant offerings with a style and grace similar to its timepieces, with many of the pens unabashedly borrowing stylistic attributes from the watch iconography. These writing instruments nestle into three collections: Tradition, Classique, and Reine de Naples, all in parallel with the watch collections of the same names. And they are a win in Nancy Olson's book!

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets

Watchmaking can often seem like an intimidating world that’s inaccessible to all but the most tech-savvy. But Peter Speake-Marin is striving to change that with his fascinating website, The Naked Watchmaker. After exiting his eponymous haute horlogerie watch brand, Speake-Marin has worked as a consultant and started his site with a desire to demystify and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Enter the secret labs of COSC and learn their secrets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

All 5 Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions Jan 2, 2021

All 5 Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Editions – Reprise

Silicon, long in use as a material in the electronics industry, has many advantages for mechanical watchmaking: it is 60 percent harder and 70 percent lighter than steel; non-magnetic; resistant to corrosion and shock; and generally needs no lubrication. These qualities motivated Patek Philippe to declare in 2005 that, “Silicon is the fabric of the future” and to found its Advanced Research department. Meet all five limited edition Advanced Research pieces released thus far right here.

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020 SJX Watches
Chopard Dec 31, 2020

Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2020

As it was with independent watchmaking, 2020 was a surprisingly good year for the establishment brands. Even though there were practically no in-person launches of new products – with the notable exception being Watches & Wonders in Shanghai – mainstream watchmakers did still debut notable timepieces. Here’s my take on the standouts of the year, starting with the might FB 2RE from Ferdinand Berthoud, a niche name that is nonetheless a subsidiary of Chopard (and the pet project of its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele). Magnificent both in mechanics and decoration, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE is the watch of the year. Clearly developed a no-expense spared wristwatch, the FB 2RE is at heart a time-only watch constructed for chronometric perfection. It’s equipped with both a a remontoir d’egalite as well as chain and fusee in order to ensure a constant output of energy from the barrel, as well as a constant delivery of energy into the escapement. Both of its key feature are put on show in the symmetrical and architecturally expansive movement, which has all of its key components sitting above the main plate. The FB-RE.FC movement Located just below the balance wheel, the remontoir is particularly fine, made up of slender steel components that are clearly artisanal in manufacture and finish. The quality of finishing extends to the rest of the movement, which is impeccably decorated in every single aspect. In fact, the quality of the movement is com...

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey which works i Dec 30, 2020

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches. Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik. Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling. The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands. Initial thoughts Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish. The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works i...

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Dec 29, 2020

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005. First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier. At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall. Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power...

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made Time+Tide
Piaget achieved Dec 24, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made

This year, Piaget achieved an unfathomable feat in watchmaking – a production timepiece only 2mm thick! Not surprisingly, given the scale of this achievement, the composition of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is extremely complex. Its super-thin mechanism and harmony between case and movement will astound even the most jaded collectors and it will likely … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Mr. Watchfinder explains the story behind the thinnest watch ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christian Lass Introduces the 30CP Wristwatch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Christian Lass set Dec 18, 2020

Christian Lass Introduces the 30CP Wristwatch

A Dane who spent eight years restoring the treasures of the Patek Philippe Museum, Christian Lass set up his own workshop in 2018 and has just unveiled his first timepiece, the 30CP. Inspired by mid-20th century Swiss timepieces – as many such watches are – the 30CP is powered by a movement of Mr Lass’ own design. Beyond its flowing lines and fine finishing, the movement is also notable for its intriguing “special hairspring adjuster floating on a ruby ball” that is based on a mechanism Abraham-Louis Breguet invented for marine chronometers. Initial thoughts The success of Philippe Dufour, and more recently Akrivia, has fuelled a slow proliferation of independent watchmakers specialising in highly-finished, time-only watches. Mr Lass, however, has managed to do something subtly different. Though the 30CP has a conventional, classical aesthetic on the front, the movement is unexpected. Its architecture is defined by flowing lines – the arched, almost wave-like balance bridge is particularly interesting – as well as some symmetry. But it is more than a pretty face, for Mr Lass has managed to incorporate a hairspring adjuster arm that pivots on a ruby ball. The combination of movement aesthetics and the adjuster help set the 30CP apart from its peers. I have yet to see the 30CP in the metal, but the photos of the prototype already indicate a high quality of decoration, which will surely be refined in the production watches. Simple done excellent “The main idea...

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e SJX Watches
Minase Dec 11, 2020

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e

Set up only in 2005, Minase is a Japanese brand that excels in high-end cases, befitting a company that’s an offshoot of precision toolmaker Kyowa Co., which also manufactures watch cases and bracelets. The latest from Minase combines its top-of-the-line case making with artisanal craft – the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e has a traditional lacquer dial created collaboration by lacquer artist Megumi Shimamoto. Initial thoughts Exuding a Japanese character in how it combines cutting-edge technology with an ancient craft, the new Divide has a sharply-finished, angular case with an artisanal dial. As with all Minase watches, the case finishing is the most obvious highlight – not only is the case itself elaborate and multifaceted, but each of the surfaces has been finished to a high level with a flat polishing technique, resulting in well-defined breaks between brushed and polished planes. Resembling the robots of Japanese anime, the sleek is design interrupted by only one element, the oversized date window, which mars the purity of the lacquer dial. That said, the date wheel itself is done in good taste, being black with white print. Megumi Shimamoto carefully applies urushi to the dial with a finely-tipped brush In a world of uninspired, recycled watch designs, the Divido is a breath of fresh air – at a hefty price. With its well-executed case and Japanese lacquer dial, the new Divido costs a bit over 5,300 Swiss francs, a 63% premium over the version launc...