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What you need to know before buying a vintage watch Time+Tide
Aug 9, 2019

What you need to know before buying a vintage watch

There are many potential pitfalls you could encounter when buying a luxury watch. Especially if it’s your first time. The desire to make a seasoned choice right off the bat is understandable, but it’s important you don’t put too much pressure on yourself to get it exactly right first time. In fact, making mistakes is … ContinuedThe post What you need to know before buying a vintage watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze 
Blue Bucherer Special Edition Review WatchAdvice
Roger Dubuis just Aug 8, 2019

Tudor Black Bay Bronze 
Blue Bucherer Special Edition Review

The Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer special edition was made specifically by Tudor for the Swiss watch company based in Lucern; Bucherer. Founded in 1888, Bucherer is one of the oldest luxury Swiss watchmakers that is still run to this day by the founding family. Bucherer has up to twenty nine stores throughout Europe, with ten of them being in Switzerland alone. One of the stores located in Paris, is the worlds largest watch and jewellery store. In the lead up to the 130th anniversary for Bucherer, they released a collection with Bucherer’s signature colour, termed “Bucherer Blue”.  Along with Tudor, this collection would see collaborations with other major brands such as IWC, Breguet, Oris, Tag Heuer and Roger Dubuis just to name a few. A total of 36 watches has been produced for the Bucherer Blue collection.  The Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer special edition is almost identical to the original Heritage Black Bay Bronze aside from the aesthetic appearance between the two models. While the original Tudor Black Bay Bronze had great success with buyers and collectors in general, it offered little to people that wanted more colour depth/contrast on the watch. This is due to the dial on the Black Bay Bronze being matte brown with a brown bezel insert, followed by a bronze casing. While the watch does indeed look great and has its own appeal, the similarities in colour throughout the timepiece didn’t do the watch justice. That is until the Tudor Black Bay Bronz...

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Pink Gold Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 8, 2019

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Pink Gold Dial

Earlier this year at SIHH 2019, Lange introduced a new variant of the ultimate chronograph, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in white gold with a pink gold dial. This follows the original from three years ago, that was in a stark combination of platinum with a black dial. When A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the Datograph in 1999, it was a statement to the world. The fact that the recently re-established Glashütte watchmaker was able to develop a new, high-end, in-house chronograph – something missing from rival brands’ catalogues – was a revelation for collectors and wake-up call for its competitors. The Datograph movement, the cal. L951.1, was not technologically groundbreaking – the construction and styling was largely inspired by classical pocket watch movements – but its combination of high-end features and vastly distinctive aesthetics, particularly compared to its Swiss counterparts, left everyone else’s chronograph in the dust. Even till today, Lange chronographs are still revered and firmly placed in the upper echelons of high horology. So was only natural that after the Datograph, the brand expanded the chronograph line-up, starting with a basic chronograph sans big date, to perpetual calendar chronographs, alongside the parallel collection of split-seconds that includes a double and even a triple rattrapante. Fashionable “salmon” The name explains it all: the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a manually-wound chronograph combined with a p...

RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for? Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for?

What do collectors really look for when they are already at the top of the watch game? Rarity? Provenance? Complexity? All are true for different collectors, with some placing value on the design of a timepiece, and others on condition. This variety is what keeps it interesting in the stratospheric peaks of the collecting world, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches run in his veins – Jonathon’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic  Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic  Jonathon did Aug 6, 2019

Watches run in his veins – Jonathon’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic 

Jonathon did not buy this watch - a stylish Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic - instead, he managed to convince his grandfather to relinquish it. It was the first watch Jonathon remembers seeing and noticing that it was a *nice* watch (and honestly, it’s easy to see why). Now, it’s one thing to notice your grandfather’s watch … ContinuedThe post Watches run in his veins – Jonathon’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Aug 6, 2019

Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept

Editor’s note: Without doubt, the most popular dial colour for men’s watches is black. So, here’s the blackest, darkest dial we can think of - the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept. To find out why this watch is so impossibly dark of dial, read on …  Few colours have the symbolic weight … ContinuedThe post Unfathomably inky – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret SJX Watches
Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle Aug 6, 2019

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret

Over the past two decades, Montblanc has evolved from a pure-play luxury pen maker into a serious contender in watchmaking. The company’s venture into watches began quite modestly in 1997, when it rolled out a line of watches powered by outsourced movements. But it was the 2007 integration of Minerva, a fabled maker of chronographs and stopwatches, that gave Montblanc bona fide watchmaking prowess. And by virtue of its own heritage, Minerva also bestowed a degree of legitimacy on Montblanc, along with an extensive archive of historical designs ready to be mined. Watchmaking prowess Le Locle, and then Villeret Earlier in the year I got to explore all facets of Montblanc’s watchmaking with a visit to Montblanc’s twin watchmaking facilities in Le Locle and Villeret. Both sit in the Vallee de Joux, the historical heart of Swiss watchmaking, and are about a 45-minute drive from each other. Each factory is dedicated to a distinct class of watchmaking – simpler and entry-level watches at Le Locle, and haute horlogerie at Villeret. Together, the two factories give Montblanc a unique diversity that has translated into three price categories of watches. Le Locle is responsible for both the first category, entry-level watches powered by Sellita-based movements, and the second, those equipped with mass-produced, in-house movements. Unsurprisingly, the facility produces tens of thousands of watches annually, all manufactured and assembled on an industrial ...

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Zenith A Star Through Time” Aug 5, 2019

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore

Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the automatic chronograph movement that’s synonymous with Zenith, A Star Through Time embarks on world tour that starts in August, with the first stop being Singapore. Happening during the exhibition is a panel discussion that includes our founder, Su Jiaxian, as well as several watchmaking classes – details on how to attend are at the bottom. The exhibition The key attraction of A Star Through Time is an interactive, virtual tour of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. It’s modelled on Le Monde Étoilé de Zenith, a collaboration between the watchmaker and Neuchâtel’s local tourism authority. Conceived to boost knowledge of watchmaking in the area, the project created a interactive, 360° experience that allows guests to go behind-the-scenes at the manufacture. Walking through the exhibition is akin to a stroll through a scaled down version of the Le Locle manufacture, including a virtual visit to the famous attic where, during the Quartz Crisis, watchmaker Charles Vermot hid the tools and plans to produce the El Primero, keeping them out of the hands of American managers who wanted to eliminate production of mechanical watches. The 400m2 exhibition also traces the evolution of the El Primero, illustrated by significant El Primero-powered watches, including the landmark early examples like the A386 in steel and G381 in 18k gold. Though dedicated to the El Primero, arguably the first ever sel...

5 affordable vintage watch options Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2019

5 affordable vintage watch options

Watch collecting has never been more present in the public consciousness. Before the quartz revolution of the 1970s, the idea of collecting watches was probably akin to collecting modern vacuum cleaners. It just didn’t make much sense. An old watch wasn’t vintage; it was just old. And a watch that was still ticking, and keeping … ContinuedThe post 5 affordable vintage watch options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Double Aug 4, 2019

Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

Editor’s note: Make no bones about it, skeleton watches are not to everyone’s taste. Legibility is sometimes less clear than a watch with a solid dial, but this is because time telling is almost ancillary to the stunning exposé that the watch offers. A skeleton dial offers a view typically reserved for a watchmaker in … ContinuedThe post Looking through Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why Edouard Meylan sells watches smarter Time+Tide
Aug 3, 2019

Why Edouard Meylan sells watches smarter

Editor’s note: Many executives in the Swiss watch industry are boring. They went to finance school, and they sell watches by looking at a balance sheet, never finding any of the watches in their own catalogue inspiring, and therefore never inspiring anyone to buy one. This could not be further from the truth for Edouard … ContinuedThe post Why Edouard Meylan sells watches smarter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?

If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren’t quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you’re missing something when you don’t wear a watch. But this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why Time+Tide
Tudor Aug 1, 2019

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why

Editor’s note: Not many know it, but Australia was one of the most important markets for Hans Wilsdorf as he built the businesses of Rolex and Tudor in the early part of the 20th century. Tudor watches have been in Australia for the best part of 100 years, proving that Australians know great value when … ContinuedThe post Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch Chanel Aug 1, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch

Chanel has been slowly but steadily building up its line of mechanical watches powered by high-end, in-house movements. Most notable is the Monsieur de Chanel jump hour, created with the help of respected independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier, who sold a minority stake in his company to Chanel several years ago. Mr Gauthier also had a hand in last year’s Boy.Friend Skeleton, a top of the line variant of Chanel’s fashionable rectangular watch. Fancy mechanics are usually the preserve of men’s watches, but the Boy.Friend Skeleton boasts an impressively thoughtful, open-worked movement, the Calibre 3. In fact, the design and details of the in-house movement show that it was conceived from the ground up with a particular aesthetic goal in mind. It’s the only way to create a skeleton movement that looks as coherent as this does. An especially beautiful detail are the gilded bevels on the outermost frame of the base plate and the sub-seconds, which emphasise the finish and shape of the movement. Chanel circles The Calibre 3 has been constructed to incorporate a series of repeating, interlocking circles, a favourite motif of Chanel’s chief watch designer, Arnaud Chastaingt. The motif starts with the bridges and base plate, which are all brass finish with a frosted surface coated in black amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC). A telling indication of the attention to detail put into its construction lies in how the bridges are constructed. Instead of being a sing...