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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week Time+Tide
Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe Apr 27, 2022

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week

It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Apr 21, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic

Nivada Grenchen are one of those brands that make you wish you’d heard of them years before you first saw them due to their knack of delivering some of the most perfect executions of vintage reissues that can be found in the Swiss watch industry today. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic takes … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 20, 2022

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction

A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers Repeater Apr 16, 2022

Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel on Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Repeater

Taking place every two years in Venice, Homo Faber is an exhibition dedicated to craftsmanship of all forms, ranging from glass to porcelain to fabric. Because its organiser is the Michelangelo Foundation established by Johann Rupert, the plain-speaking chairman of Richemont, several of the Swiss group’s watchmakers are taking part. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is presenting a pair of one-off striking watches at Homo Faber – the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeaters Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. The watches each recreate one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens made by 16th century Japanese painter Tawaraya Sōtatsu that depicts the titular gods of Japanese mythology. Initial thoughts Owned by a temple in Kyoto, the folding screen is a National Treasure of Japan, a cultural object deemed so important by the Japanese government that it cannot be exported. The screen is certainly a worthy subject for a high-quality miniature, and Vacheron Constantin appears to have done justice to it. The dial decoration is perfect for a repeater, since the brand’s cal. 1731 minute repeater movement is relatively large, resulting in an expansive dial that is usually blank. It’s an ideal canvas for artisanal decoration. Vacheron Constantin’s enamel work, whether in house or done by independent artisans like Anita Porchet, is usually impeccable. The repeater dials definitely look the part. In fact, the miniatures of the gods are im...

The CODE41 X41 Edition 6 delivers an ultra-hard, full sapphire case at an astonishing price Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2022

The CODE41 X41 Edition 6 delivers an ultra-hard, full sapphire case at an astonishing price

Following the success of their previous releases, Swiss watchmakers CODE41 are back with the latest version of their bold and highly technical X41 in the shape of the new Edition 6. This time, they’re upping the ante with the introduction of new variants that are available in an ultra-hard full sapphire case. Typically the domain … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 X41 Edition 6 delivers an ultra-hard, full sapphire case at an astonishing price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green - the Chopard 2022 releases Time+Tide
Chopard 2022 releases If variety Apr 8, 2022

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green - the Chopard 2022 releases

If variety is the spice of life, Chopard broke out the chilli sauce for Watches & Wonders 2022.  Their large range of releases covered a variety of genres while maintaining that upper-class character we expect from the famed Swiss watchmaker. Whether it was a complicated addition to a collection, a brand-new take on a retro … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D SJX Watches
Richard Mille Mar 27, 2022

SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D

A maker of affordable watches with unconventional styling, SevenFriday is now a decade old. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has unveiled the Free-D. To put it mildly, the Free-B adds three-dimensionality to the brand’s trademark time display comprised of rotating discs. And in a first for the brand, which has historically relied on Miyota, the Free-D is powered by a Swiss-made movement, Sellita to be exact. Initial thoughts While SevenFriday has increasingly felt like a “fashion” brand with its endless iterations of the same design, the brand has produced timepieces that are genuinely compelling. The Free-D is certainly one of the more interesting examples of its unorthodox design, though the over-the-top style is an acquired taste to say the least. Bold, extra large, and definitely peculiar, the Free-D is actually based on the brand’s signature “squircle” case but dressed up with a 3D-printed external shell and lugs. The added parts do exactly what they are meant to, which is to elaborate on the brand’s traditional case style to distinguish it for the anniversary. And they give the watch a decidedly alien aesthetic – it looks like a prop from a sci-fi film. At the same time, the external cladding on the case is essentially plastic. Granted, plastic of various types is widely used in high-end watchmaking – Richard Mille and Hublot are proponents of its use – but it is certainly not for everyone. In contrast, the time display is simple but easy...

Tissot Introduces the PRX Chronograph Valjoux SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Mar 11, 2022

Tissot Introduces the PRX Chronograph Valjoux

Originally a late seventies model that was relaunched in 2021, the Tissot PRX was unsurprisingly a smash hit, largely because it is one of the most accessible Swiss-made watches with an integrated bracelet. And now Tissot has elaborated upon the design with the PRX Chronograph Valjoux. Initial thoughts The PRX Chronograph is a logical but attractive iteration of the original idea. The angular case and bracelet that characterise the PRX are perfect in a larger size with a sporty, contrast-register dial. More notably, Tissot made the smart choice of moving away from the typical (and sometimes boring) black and white for the “panda” and “reverse panda” dials, instead opting for more striking combinations – particularly the silver dial with gold markers. While the construction of the base-model PRX is simple, the chronograph gets more interesting as there is more real estate for details. The stepped, rectangular pushers, for instance, are especially attractive because they echo the case shape, while also having slight bevelling along the edges that add a bit of visual refinement. While the design appealing, it’s weighed down by the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm. That said, given the case is wide at 42 mm in diameter, it has good-enough proportions. Another nit to pick is the awkward position of the date, but that can only be fixed with a much smaller case (or much larger movement), both of which are not viable at this price point. The PRX Chronograph are pr...

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers a leaner and meaner smartwatch than its predecessor Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers Mar 10, 2022

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers a leaner and meaner smartwatch than its predecessor

A front-runner in the world of luxury smartwatches, TAG Heuer pushes the envelope of innovation further with the new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 45mm. With the Connected E3 a resounding success, the Swiss powerhouse brings all-round improvements to the E4. New hardware and software combine to provide the user with a watch that’s not … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers a leaner and meaner smartwatch than its predecessor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made For Women - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Were Made Mar 8, 2022

The First Wristwatches From Breguet, Hermès And Patek Philippe Were Made For Women - Reprise

Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ledger is inspired by cryptocurrency Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Ledger Feb 20, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ledger is inspired by cryptocurrency

The future. It’s always here before you know it. And in an industry based on the anachronistic idea of the mechanical timepiece, Swiss watchmakers Hublot have always looked forward. From their striking, sometimes polarising designs, their forays into the connected watch world with the Big Bang E, and their use of cutting-edge materials like ceramic, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ledger is inspired by cryptocurrency appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm Feb 1, 2022

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm

A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...

HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold Time+Tide
Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant Jan 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold

Hublot have never had any issues with realising bold, eyeball-grabbing designs and exploring a range of colours and materials that other brands have yet to even attempt to tackle. But sometimes two minds are greater than one. Once again, Hublot has partnered with Swiss tattoo artist Maxine Plescia-Buchi to continue their saga of Sang Bleu … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot launches three new scratch-resistant iterations of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II in ceramic and Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1 SJX Watches
Jan 26, 2022

Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1

Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork Time+Tide
Rado Jan 20, 2022

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork

If you’re an ambitious tennis player, you could do a whole lot worse than start wearing a Rado. Consider the evidence. Former ambassador, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012 and the next year he became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936. Adding further credence to Rado’s lucky-charm powers, Ash Barty … ContinuedThe post Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Time+Tide
Mido Ocean Star Tribute As Jan 8, 2022

Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute

As if Mido needed to offer even better value for money, each purchase of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute will now include a free Mido-branded backpack and Swiss Army knife. If you’ve ever been to a particularly friendly watch boutique and struck up a good conversation, you may know the joys of getting some free … ContinuedThe post Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s year TAG Heuer Dec 24, 2021

VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year

TAG Heuer have enjoyed an eventful year, releasing some gorgeous watches that flex their capabilities beyond their standard lineups while staying true to their inherent DNA. Perhaps the best example of this was their collaboration with Porsche in the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition, embracing the racing ancestry that the Swiss brand carries … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 watches that defined TAG Heuer’s year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” - A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan Time+Tide
Longines Dec 18, 2021

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” - A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan

When Matthias Breschan speaks you could swear that he’d founded Longines 189 years ago, such is the passion that the Austrian CEO has for the brand. Having taken the reins of the Swiss powerhouse in July 2020, Matthias is no stranger to both heritage and modern watchmaking. He joined the Swatch Group in 1996, working … ContinuedThe post “Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” – A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso has been Dec 15, 2021

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Dec 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P

Just days after the inaugural Nautilus ref. 5711/1A Tiffany & Co. 170th Anniversary sold for just over US$6.5 million, Patek Philippe has announced a wristwatch at the other end of the watchmaking spectrum. The latest in a series of watches focused on experimental new technologies, the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P-001 is the ultimate Patek Philippe minute repeater in terms of acoustics. Equipped with a patented amplification device named ‘fortissimo “ff”‘, the ref. 5750P strikes chimes that are so loud they are audible 60 m away according to Patek Philippe. Initial thoughts The ref. 5750P is interesting both mechanically and aesthetically. The R 27 PS movement certainly lives up to the “Advanced Research” label with its amplification mechanism, while the design is practically radical, at least in terms of Patek Philippe grand complications. While the “fortissimo” device relies on a few familiar principles, including a crystal soundboard and perforated case back, it is still novel enough to make it interesting. While other watchmakers have built repeating movements based on the same concepts, including Audemars Piguet with its Supersonnerie, Patek Philippe has done it in a classical fashion with an impressively thin movement that is very much typical of the brand. Visually, the ref. 5750P is radically different from any Patek Philippe repeater. Even the most contemporary of the brand’s striking watches are conventionally classical in...

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A-018 made Dec 7, 2021

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction

While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...