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Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2025

Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition

The Kudoke 2 SHH Edition celebrates 20 years of the independent brand founded by husband-and-wife Stefan and Ev Kudoke. A run of 20 pieces exclusive to Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the edition sports the “flakes” dial finish in a first for the Kudoke 2, which features a distinctive day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Initial Thoughts Stefan Kudoke was only in his mid-twenties when he founded his eponymous brand. Kudoke’s focus on detailed, graphic hand engraving has helped the brand differentiate itself as more independents, often focusing on movement finishing and guilloche, have sprung up over the years. While the SHH Edition comes at a considerable premium to the regular production Kudoke 2, it’s easily justified by the champagne rosé dial hand engraved with a “flakes” finish. When considering both the quality and quantity of engraving, the SHH Edition maintains the competitive pricing Kudoke is known for. Dial The SHH Edition brings the “flakes” pattern dial, first launched on the Kudoke 3, to the Kudoke 2 for the first time. The dial surface is covered with hundreds of tiny divots resembling flakes, which give the dial a sparkly finish. Each “flake” is painstakingly free-hand engraved, leaving no two dials exactly alike. Similar care is given to the rotating 24-hour disk at 12 o’clock, which has a deeply engraved, rose-gold plated sun on one half, and on the other half,  a moon and stars motif that’s engraved and lumed in blue. T...

First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face Monochrome
Bovet Jun 16, 2025

First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face

Bovet, the historic Swiss brand founded in 1822, was revived by Pascal Raffy in 2001 as a temple of haute horlogerie. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with high-end complications decorated with lavish artistic flourishes. One of the more ‘straightforward’ collections in Bovet’s universe is the 19Thirty, a time-only model with a unique and […]

We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle Time+Tide
Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary Jun 13, 2025

We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle

Seiko show off a sense of humour with a diver commemorating a movie that's done more to put off people from ocean swimming than any other.The post We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jun 12, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review

Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jun 12, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks

Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off  Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons.  The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...

Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Today Jun 10, 2025

Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster

Today on Fratello, we’re sharing the story of how two adventurers crossed Antarctica on foot in 1989. One of those men, Reinhold Messner, wore an Omega Speedmaster on his wrist during the journey. Traversing a vast expanse of ice, snow, and howling winds is no small feat. Antarctica is one of the starkest landscapes on […] Visit Crossing Antarctica With An Omega Speedmaster to read the full article.

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Datejust Jun 10, 2025

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000

Vintage watches remain ever popular in the watch collector’s journey. There are serious collectors who remain focused on buying only vintage. Since the pandemic, my inbox has been flooded with auction houses and vintage dealers trying to one-up each other by selling the most curated “once in a lifetime” or most expensive vintage piece. I have nothing against the sellers and buyers, especially if they can vouch for the authenticity and pay for the repairs, they deserve my appreciation. Personally, I am apprehensive of owning vintage watches at my current point of collecting. I owned a few vintage watches in my early days as a collector, most of them were bargain finds on eBay that eventually stopped working or I ended up trading, except for one expensive Rolex Datejust that had to be serviced. Ultimately, service on the Datejust was as expensive as the watch, including Rolex replacing the dial to a different color which I hated and ended up selling for a loss. I know it was a rookie mistake, but that was the end of vintage watches for me. After that experience, I stuck to buying either new watches from retailers or pre-owned watches from other collectors. As it happened, my work took me to Germany often, and there I discovered a whole new world of neo-vintage watches. Before I get deeper into what specific “affordable” neo-vintage watches a couple of my collector friends and I recommend, I should briefly define what neo-vintage watches are and why they are easier ...

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made

There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives.  But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers.  This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Monochrome
Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 4, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC

Watch brands launch special editions on every occasion, from anniversaries of their founding or famous models to the signing of new ambassadors and the opening of new flagship boutiques. Let me introduce you to the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle, a special-edition watch launched to celebrate the new Hublot Fifth Avenue flagship boutique. It […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC to read the full article.

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise Worn & Wound
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 2, 2025

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise

For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case.  This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...

Omega Seamaster Green Diver 300m Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega May 29, 2025

Omega Seamaster Green Diver 300m Review

How does a vintage-watch lover end up loving the green-dialed Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? Before I answer that, let's get a little philosophical. The deeper you get into this watch hobby, the more you start to understand what a “you watch" is. You build a collection, no matter how big or small, that either jibes with your style, your wrist size, or your general vibe. For example, I tend to gravitate towards old things or things tied to some sort of meaningful historical context. I also tend to like things that everyone else doesn’t. This tracks almost identically with my music taste (a lot of Beatles, Beach Boys, and Velvet Underground mixed with an intense love for ‘90s and 2000s indie rock). This is why the two-tone Rolex Datejust holds a special place in my heart, along with vintage Submariners, classic gold dress watches, and basically anything in the 36mm size arena. Finding a niche like this, however, does not mean that you don’t daydream of cosplaying as someone else — someone who could effortlessly pull off a 46mm diver, or an IWC Big Pilot, or even an Urwerk. It’s like those moments when a Gracie Abrams song appears in your music shuffle and you hesitate to change the song but you’re also afraid to maybe admit, “This is actually good?” Now, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M has been around since 1993 (or, if you want a full history of the Seamaster, you can read it here), and the contemporary iteration was initially released in 2018. This update mad...

Longines Celebrates 100 Years of Dual Time Zone Watches with the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Longines Celebrates 100 Years May 27, 2025

Longines Celebrates 100 Years of Dual Time Zone Watches with the Spirit Zulu Time 1925

Longines continues to expand their Zulu Time collection with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Never one to shy away from an anniversary, the latest version of the Longines travel watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch to display dual time zones. These early dual time zone watches featured colorful representations of maritime flags referencing the letter “Z”, a nod to the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich. The “Z” designation ultimately led to pilots referencing “Zulu time” when referring to time at the zero meridian, an important concept when traveling across time zones. The modern renditions of the Zulu Time watches are completely distinct from their historical counterparts in terms of their design and aesthetics, but for Longines their intent seems to be to recreate the adventurous spirit of those watches in a modern package. All of the Zulu Time watches to this point have straddled the line between a clear vintage inspiration and contemporary design tropes, resulting in watches that have a classic everyday appeal.  Last year, I reviewed the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium, which simply by virtue of the material used felt like the most contemporary iteration of the Zulu Time yet. I really enjoyed my time with that watch and felt that Longines really nailed the proportions, with a case just under 40mm that was also not too long from lug to lug. The new 1925 version of the Zulu Time is perhaps best thought of as the inverse o...

Hands-On: the Selten Grand Feu Enamel “Prism Violet” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe May 22, 2025

Hands-On: the Selten Grand Feu Enamel “Prism Violet”

Let’s take a quick inventory of some of the small watch brands making enamel dials of some kind. This is a segment that’s become ultra competitive in the wake of anOrdain, the Glasgow based indie that popularized this style of artisanal watchmaking in a more accessible way, coming on the scene several years ago. There’s 5280 Watch Company, based in Colorado and creating a truly unique enamel dial that is also decorated with an old fashioned engine turning technique. Then there’s Statera, based in Brazil, a brand that makes grand feu enamel dials that are meant to evoke midcentury classics from Patek Philippe and others. There are a bunch of brands who don’t specialize in enamel, but have dabbled in it, one way or another. We can  include De Rijke & Co. here, who produced a limited run of champlevé enamel dialed watches with designs by Guy Allen last year. There are others: Louis Erard and Seiko have had notable enamel releases in the last few years, and we can even include James Lamb in the conversation, although the handmade silver cases he produces push his watches just a bit outside that tempting sub $5,000 price point.  This much enamel would have been unthinkable in a pre anOrdain world, and I think it’s important to recognize that at the outset of any discussion of a new enamel dialed watch, because any new watch in this category will be seen, perhaps unfairly, as a challenger to anOrdain’s crown. Their waitlist now reportedly stretches to 2029, so i...

Knowledge: Popes and Precision – Papal Clocks and Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also played May 22, 2025

Knowledge: Popes and Precision – Papal Clocks and Watches

With the recent election of Pope Leo XIV-the first American and Augustinian pontiff-a rare opportunity arises to revisit one of the most intriguing intersections between horology and the papacy. While much attention has historically centered on Pope Leo XIII’s Jubilee in 1888, when Patek Philippe crafted commemorative watches for the occasion, the relationship between watchmaking and the Vatican stretches further back, rooted in the values and vision of Patek Philippe’s co-founder, Antoine Norbert de Patek. A devout Catholic and Polish émigré, Patek viewed watchmaking not merely as a commercial enterprise but as a moral and cultural calling. His personal faith and longstanding connection to the Catholic Church helped shape the company’s enduring ties to religious institutions, most notably the Vatican. This ethos of sacred precision and spiritual patronage found material expression in a number of papal commissions, the most prominent of which emerged during the reign of Leo XIII. Complementing Patek Philippe’s contributions, Vacheron Constantin also played a significant role in this narrative. In collaboration with Parisian retailer Ratel, they produced devotional timepieces that transcended mere functionality, serving as instruments of spiritual reflection. These watches, rich in symbolism and craftsmanship, further exemplify the deep connections between horology and the papacy. Papal Precedents: The Watches of Pius IX Before Leo XIII’s Jubilee, the tradit...

First Look – The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials Monochrome
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin May 14, 2025

First Look – The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials

While Piaget is rightfully heralded as the precursor of ultra-thin calibres, it was also a pioneer of ornamental stone dials in the early 1960s. A decade or so later, under the direction of Yves Piaget, another milestone was reached with the release of the famous gold Polo sports watch in 1979. Its sleek gold integrated […]

Zenith Defy Skyline Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith May 13, 2025

Zenith Defy Skyline Review

While the El Primero movement architecture may serve as the face of the Zenith brand, it is the Defy collection that remains its soul. The Defy represents an historically significant ethos for Zenith, a creative foundation that is just as important to the Swiss brand’s past as it is to its future. Originally meant to be a showcase of innovation and ideas, the Defy collection serves dual purposes: to preserve and celebrate innovations of the past in the “Revival” subfamily, and to continue innovating for the future in the series’ other branches. In 2022, the brand took a big step toward the future of the collection with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline, a watch that simultaneously looked to build on successful elements of the past and also to capitalize on the integrated-bracelet sport watch trend that had taken hold of the industry. The Zenith Defy collection has roots in the 1960s and ‘70s, when many of the brand’s most iconic and exciting references were released (you can read a more in-depth history here). Many of these have been reborn in the form of modern Revival references, allowing a new generation of enthusiasts to discover them again, or for the first time. These designs weren’t afraid to take risks, from the shape of the case, to the bracelet integration, right into the dial colors and textures. The Defy name quickly came to signify a huge amount of character, and that’s on full display within the brand’s current stable.  In finding a mo...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces May 12, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia

It’s deja vu all over again. Just last week, we brought you news of Tudor’s latest release in carbon fiber, a Black Bay Chronograph made to celebrate their partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Just days after that announcement, Tudor followed up with yet another carbon chrono, this one built on the FXD platform. As with all of Tudor’s carbon watches to date, this new FXD Chrono has a very specific sports tie in as well, demonstrating that Tudor’s connections to the sports world are broad, and they’re likely to continue supporting their partners with new watches along the way.  The new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” is a sequel of sorts to the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” released a year ago. Both releases were timed to coincide with the Giro d’Italia, the famed Italian cycling race for which Tudor is the official timekeeper. Last year’s watch had prominent red accents, a design meant to evoke the colors of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, this one has gone pink as a tribute to the race itself. The leader at the beginning of each stage dons a pink jersey, the “Maglia Rosa,” so the color has a deep connection to the race and Italian cycling culture.  The pink accents on the tachymeter scale and the 9 and 3 o’clock subdials, contrast nicely with the black dial, and complement the fabric strap with pink striping down the center. As with last years Cycling release, the tachymeter scale here is set up to time cycling speeds as oppo...