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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey Worn & Wound
Boldr Odyssey It isn’t Feb 3, 2025

Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey

It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799).  And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Jan 31, 2025

Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?

For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group.  All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...

Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 Fratello
Jan 30, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024

With our long-lasting Thursday vintage column rebranded, it would be criminal not to look back closely at my 2024 watch-collecting moves. Here are some highlights: my obsession with vintage Gallet chronographs goes on (with room for impulse purchases still there), and I invested more in research, lost motivation to share on social media, and struggled […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of the Rolex Air-King, The Understated Pilot’s Watch Monochrome
Rolex Air-King Jan 17, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Rolex Air-King, The Understated Pilot’s Watch

The Air-King is an interesting model within Rolex’s historic portfolio (known as an evergreen if it’s still in production), sometimes dismissed as too entry-level (well, back in the day). The sentiment is somewhat understandable but also misplaced, even if the Air-King sits among the most affordable models on the preowned market today. The watch goes […]

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 15, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...

Introducing – Raymond Weil Millesime Infinite Burgundy Dresses in Red for the Chinese Year of the Snake Monochrome
Raymond Weil Jan 15, 2025

Introducing – Raymond Weil Millesime Infinite Burgundy Dresses in Red for the Chinese Year of the Snake

Raymond Weil hit a home run with the introduction of its Millesime collection last year. Using vintage design cues, the Millesime nailed the retro sector dial, offering fans of the genre an attractive option at an attractive price. The latest Millesime jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition with a rich […]

WatchCheck Seeks to Redefine What it Means to Service a Watch Worn & Wound
Jan 14, 2025

WatchCheck Seeks to Redefine What it Means to Service a Watch

It probably goes without saying that here at Worn & Wound we think watch collecting is a rewarding hobby that if approached in the right way can bring you a lot of happiness over the course of many years. And unlike, say, tennis, there’s very little risk of injury. And unlike a pursuit like car collecting, you won’t need to buy a separate parcel of real estate to store your collection, unless you happen to be John Mayer (allegedly). And in our opinion it’s an easy hobby to recommend because you can get deep into it without spending a fortune, and we also happen to know there’s a great community of like-minded enthusiasts out there who can provide support, advice, and general expertise along the way. But it’s not all sunshine and daisies. Oh no, not at all. Eventually, the time will come when you need to send a watch in for service, and this is the point where enthusiasts are either made or perhaps run away from watches, never to return.  OK, I’m exaggerating somewhat. But the watch servicing process is something that binds all of us together in a way that only shared trauma can. Nobody likes to service a watch. It’s expensive, anxiety inducing, and frequently the process is less than transparent. It can also take what seems like forever to get a watch back once it’s been sent out. Plus, to state the obvious, you have to go without your watch for some indefinite period – the greatest indignity of them all! We love these things as much as one can love “t...

An Ode to Origins with The New Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R Worn & Wound
Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R Jan 2, 2025

An Ode to Origins with The New Casio G-SHOCK DW-5000R

In 1983, Sally Ride became the first American woman in space, the final episode of the acclaimed television series MASH* aired, the members of rock band KISS were seen without their makeup for the first time, and the first Casio G-SHOCK, the DW-5000C, was released to consumers. An incredibly rare piece to find nowadays––especially in good condition without a crumbling band or shroud––this model has become an elusive collector’s item, practically unobtainable for the common hobbyist. Forty-one years later, Casio has just announced their modern redesign of the original 5000C in their new DW-5000R model. Throughout 2024, the brand released numerous watches in commemoration of their 50th anniversary like the GMWB5000SS-2, TRN50SS-2A, and GMC-B2100ZE-1A, but the faithful recreation of this model is sure to be a hit amongst both Casio enthusiasts and ordinary customers looking for a new but retro-inspired watch.  The DW-5000R is built with a stainless-steel case and “Shock Resistant” labeled screw-down case back, a rare sight on modern Casios and yet another callback to the company’s roots. The shroud and band are constructed of environmentally friendly yet durable bio-based resin. Its dial is arguably the most significant characteristic of these models, fit with the iconic brick backsplash, red outline, and yellow and blue lettering. Manufactured in Yamagata, Japan––within the same mother factory that produced the original DW-5000C–– “JAPAN” is feat...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2024

Ultimate Gift Guide for the Zombie Apocalypse Featuring Terra Cielo Mare’s Orienteering Quota 8611

Yes. It’s the holiday gift guide to end all gift guides. When the grid goes down and there’s nowhere else to run, we’ve gathered the ultimate guide of goods for surviving the zombie apocalypse in style. Helmed by the Orienteering Quota 8611, created by our friends at Terra Cielo Mare-a younger sibling to the watch worn by Brad Pitt’s character in the Hollywood epic World War Z-these essentials are designed to help you hide, hunker, and hike your way out of harm’s way. Infected or not, these gifts are ideal for that fan of the genre, or that gear-minded guru in your life. Now follow us into the abyss through a series of journal entries discovered from the zombie apocalypse that could have been.   Journal Entry – Day 8 of the Zombie Apocalypse – 9:12 AM I glance at my wristwatch to check the time. It’s been three hours since we last heard the inhuman howls of the undead. Thankfully, the large, lumed numerals on the dial of this 44mm, burly timepiece are easy to read. They were absolutely everywhere, and the only thing standing between me and becoming their next meal was my Terra Cielo Mare Orienteering Quota 8611. Its rugged, Italian design was perfect for the chaos, but it was the internal bezel compass feature that truly saved me. As the horde closed in, I rotated the bezel to align with my escape route. Thanks to the precise markings and the luminous dial, I could navigate the streets with ease. The shock-resistant build held up as I scrambled over ru...

Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Dec 9, 2024

Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle

Imagine yourself sitting or standing in a concert hall. The band or orchestra performs what clearly is the last song of the night. After the final note, though, the crowd goes wild and keeps clapping, hoping the concert won’t end just yet. Finally, the performers decide to play one more song - the encore. Sometimes, […] Visit Ending The Year On A Bold Note With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A And The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle to read the full article.

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex One aspect Dec 6, 2024

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex

One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...

Recap – 100 Years of Citizen, A Splendid Commemorative Pocket Watch and some clues on what to expect in the future Monochrome
Citizen Dec 4, 2024

Recap – 100 Years of Citizen, A Splendid Commemorative Pocket Watch and some clues on what to expect in the future

“Watches made for all citizens.” This is why major Japanese brand Citizen is named as it is. There is a reason behind this international and easy-to-remember name, which goes way beyond just a marketing motto. The brand philosophy can be resumed, and I quote brand manager Yoshihisa Yajima that “no matter who you are or […]

First Look – Hanhart Brings Back the 415 ES Chronograph (incl. Video Review) Monochrome
Dec 3, 2024

First Look – Hanhart Brings Back the 415 ES Chronograph (incl. Video Review)

German watchmaking brand Hanhart has etched a commendable place in watchmaking history for itself, primarily through its very good stopwatches and chronograph watches. While most attention goes to the 417 ES, the vintage-inspired pilot’s chronograph with its red-marked fluted bezel, red pusher and bicompax dial layout, there’s plenty more to the brand than just that. […]

Realistically Aspirational: Four New Watches in the “Micro-Indie” Space Worn & Wound
Nov 29, 2024

Realistically Aspirational: Four New Watches in the “Micro-Indie” Space

There’s a bit of dialogue toward the end of Willy Wonka and The Chocolate Factory from 1971 that goes: Wonka: but Charlie… Don’t forget what happened to the man who suddenly got everything he wanted. Charlie: What happened? Wonka: He lived happily ever after. An inversion of the typical “be careful what you wish for” sentiment that puts a rosy tint on the morbid but wonderful film, I can’t help but hear it play in my head when I look at the current state of independent watches. Once, there was a dearth of brands and originality, and now, there is almost too much. Well, not almost; there is. We went from a time when unique options were few and far between, making any that popped up all the more rare and exciting, to now, when they are almost common. I’M PRETTY SURE WE’RE CHARLIE IN THIS STORY What an absurd state of affairs! Am I actually complaining about there being too much originality? Well, no, but yes (mainly for this article and humor). You see, I used to be easily seduced by these new and unique pieces, but now, I have decision paralysis. Oh, the horror! In reality, this is remarkable. We’ve wondered for years what brands would do when the vintage craze ran its course and a need for originality returned. Rather than purely wild watches that depart from tradition entirely (though there are many), we’ve seen smaller brands invest in research, development, and craft to create watches that, at least, I would not have thought possible a handful of yea...

Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” Fratello
Audemars Piguet Introduces Nov 20, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”

Audemars Piguet put a tourbillon inside an edgy titanium watch, and Kaws put a miniature Companion. “AP” is very active in the art scene, so every once in a while, a special collaboration watch emerges. Audemars Piguet introduces the 43mm limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion,” a series of 250 futuristic titanium watches infused with […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces The 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? Fratello
Rolex ? Hello Nov 14, 2024

Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex?

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Could this be the next new Rolex? In today’s episode, we put ourselves in the shoes of the brand’s product developers and exchanged some pitches about what kind of watch we’d love to see Rolex release next. We fully acknowledge it’s practically impossible to guess The Crown’s next move. Still, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? to read the full article.

The Girard-Perregaux Casquette is Back, in Titanium and Gold Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Casquette Nov 7, 2024

The Girard-Perregaux Casquette is Back, in Titanium and Gold

After 20 long years, I think it’s time I finally come out of the closet. You see, mom and dad (and Worn & Wound readers), I am, in fact, a nerd. I know! I know! I’ve tried to hide it over the years. Secretly reading science-fiction at night. Joining the Mathletes in sixth grade under the guise of doing it ironically. All the signs were there, it just wasn’t until this very moment I felt like I could tell you all this. What has caused me to publicly address my inner nerd comes from the release of the new Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold. With its harkening back to an earlier 1970’s reference and that dreamily retro red LED display, it’s just the sort of watch I could see on the wrists of those queuing for the first Star Wars trilogy. Being able to cohesively blend two seemingly incongruent design references is no small feat, so it’s especially interesting to see the new release of the Casquette. As a rule, Girard Perregaux leans into traditional timepieces, with perhaps a few upgrades here or there to remain exciting to the market. Almost in contrast, the Casquette series of watches is a retro-futuristic dream, a departure that still somehow works for the brand. Part of the reason for understanding this model’s return is to understand the reason behind its creation. In the 1970’s, two technological advances took place that began to integrate technology more into the design aesthetics of watchmaking: the production of quartz watches and the LE...

Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date Fratello
Nomos Tangente 2date Let’s start Nov 7, 2024

Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date

Let’s start with a quote from the introduction article I wrote on the Nomos Tangente 2date. Here goes: “… if you wear this new Tangente on a first date, the chances you will land a second date are practically zero if the other person is into watches and a frequent contributor to the ‘date or […] Visit Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...