Deployant
New: Bovet Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Reimagined (with pricing info)
The new Bovet Virtuoso VII Chapter Two now in a re-imagined guise. A limited edition of 32 peices in 4 dial options.. Release details with Commentary.
Results for Service Dial
4,812 articles · 565 videos found · page 147 of 180
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Time+Tide
A Week On The Wrist: How the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar inspired me to buy SCUBA gear
On my wrist is something that embodies many a daydream. Jaques-Yves Costeau, Dirk Pitt, sixties cool and the carefree life of mid-century Europe in the summer. Can the tasty lemon of the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar serve up all this in its compact dial, and make it come to life? It might seem a tall … ContinuedThe post A Week On The Wrist: How the DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar inspired me to buy SCUBA gear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hublot’s Colour Theory
All watch brands use colour on occasion - after all, there’s only so many times you can make a black, blue or white dial - but few deploy as varied a palette, and to as great an effect, as Hublot.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur
Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...
Revolution
Eisenkiesel – Rolex’s Latest Rolling Stone
Ross Povey tells us about the latest stone dial to grace the linage of the fabled Rolex Day-Date, the Eisenkiesel dial on both the 36 and 40mm Day-Dates
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Raum is a statement piece that dares to be different
In some ways, the boom of microbrands in the past few years has reignited the golden age of suppliers from the 1950s. Leaf through a catalogue, pick out your parts, print your logo on the dial, and with a bit of luck you can have a successful Kickstarter project to launch your watch. But that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Raum is a statement piece that dares to be different appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 combines great value with hardcore performance
With the barrage of vintage reissue divers on the market, it can be a relief to see a watch that isn’t afraid to play it bold. The Tissot Seastar 200 Professional is exactly that - a bold 600m dive watch without any pretension that’s fantastic value for money. The dial Neither the wave dial nor … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 combines great value with hardcore performance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K
When it comes to evaluating a new watch, many of us play the “what if” game. What if the watch had a blue dial? What if it had a grey bezel? The new Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K puts that idea into action with a new limited-edition design chosen by fans of the brand worldwide. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Gorilla Debuts First Chronograph, a Skeleton in Ceramic and Titanium
Founded just five years ago, Gorilla has already established a distinct house style, born of the its two founders’ eye for design. Notably, one of the founders, Octavio Garcia, was design chief at Audemars Piguet for over a decade. The latest from the brand is reassuringly familiar, channeling the style of its inaugural model, but a major step up in terms of form, function, and price – the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph. Equipped with a smartly skeletonised dial, it’s the brand’s first chronograph but retains with Gorilla’s recognisable case style. The case is multi-material: a ceramic bezel, followed by an anodised aluminium ring, and then a black-coated titanium case middle and back Initial thoughts Gorilla’s past offerings have been appealing for several reasons. Though evocative of some other well-known designs, its watches are original and handsome – a rare sight at the US$800 price range – and they are usually executed in unusual combinations of materials like titanium and ceramic. At the same time, the brand managed to make uncommon complication relatively affordable, namely the wandering hours display that’s most famously associated with Urwerk and Audemars Piguet in modern watchmaking. The latest offering is an extension of the brand’s strengths. Despite being its first chronograph, the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph is well put together, having a skeletonised front that’s intricate in detail and rich in colour that manages to pres...
SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Contest Winner Makes it into Production
Announced by Seiko almost a year ago, the Custom Watch Beatmaker was an online contest to design the brand’s next sports watch. Seiko just unveiled the winner – which has been brought to life as a limited edition – the Seiko 5 Sports Custom Watch Beatmaker 2021. A surprisingly clean design, the winner has a gold dial circled by a “Pepsi” bezel. It was one of about 50,000 submissions, but it won by a surprisingly large margin of 8.5 million votes out of a 16 million-vote total – possibly due to a group effort by a forum dedicated to Seiko. Initial thoughts The Custom Watch Beatmaker contest was in many ways an official acknowledgment of the Seiko “mods” community that pursue aftermarket customisation of Seiko watches. It’s uncommon for a big brand to do so, though the contest was centred on the Seiko 5 Sports, the brand’s entry-level mechanical watch. But Seiko itself has changed the landscape since the contest was announced in October 2020. The brand has since launched numerous Seiko 5 Sports “crossover” editions featuring Japanese pop-culture themes, resulting in watches far from the average Seiko 5. In comparison, the contest edition seems less special, at least from an aesthetic perspective, since it’s basically rearranged the colours of a few elements instead of being an all-new design. Still, compared to the regular-production Seiko 5 Sports, the Beatmaker edition stands out. The gold, sunburst dial on a dive-style watch is uncommon, not to...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style
Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...
SJX Watches
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai
Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1966 Omega Speedmaster Professional 'CB Case,' A 1968 Tudor Oyster, And A 1960s Heuer Autavia
Back to the basics for this shortened week of HODINKEE Vintage, and black-dial sports watches headline the litter.
WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review
Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches. Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal. In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...
Quill & Pad
Focus On Technology: Pad Printing – Reprise
Have you ever wondered how Titleist gets its logo on bumpy round golf balls? Well this is your lucky day as Joshua Munchow discusses the secret of one very specialized printing process that has its roots in watchmaking. In fact, you still see the results of this process nearly every time you look at your watch dial.
Time+Tide
One (very satisfied) owner’s review of the Kurono Grand Akane
What haven’t I already said about my love for Kurono Tokyo watches. At this stage in my collecting journey, the watches I own already tick a lot of functional boxes, so the main driver of my current purchase decisions is dial aesthetic. If I were to buy yet another diver with a black dial, it … ContinuedThe post One (very satisfied) owner’s review of the Kurono Grand Akane appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Krayon Anywhere “Impression, Sunrise”
Founded in 2013 by veteran movement constructor Rémi Maillat, Krayon made its debut with the impressive, enormously complex mechanical computer that calculates sunrise and sunset times in any location. It followed up with the more affordable Anywhere, which strikes a better balance between complexity and user friendliness. And now for Only Watch 2021, Krayon is taking the Anywhere to the next level with a metiers d’art dial. The Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 features a lacquer dial inspired by Monet’s Impression, Sunrise. Initial thoughts The standard Anywhere is compelling to begin with, complex but executed in thoughtful manner. Despite being ultra complicated – the movement is made up of over 430 components, rivalling a split-seconds chronograph – the Anywhere is rather easy to read and operate, as well as being wearable at just 39 mm wide and 9.5 mm high. But the original design arguably left room for improvement. The hour markers, for instance, seem to interrupt the styling of the dial. And it appears that the Only Watch edition has picked up where the original left off by refining the dial design. The highlight is the dial centre that’s a reinterpretation of Impression, Sunrise by Claude Monet, a thematically-congruent decoration since both the watch and painting are centred on the Sun. Like the painting, the dial is Impressionist in its execution: the Sun rising over water is only visible at a distance. Also notable is the movement inside, which is...
Deployant
New: Laurent Ferrier École Annual Calendar Navy
Laurent Ferrier revisits his École Annual Calendar, with a new variation in a resplendent in a new blue dial with splashes of orange with a Nubuck strap.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”
F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...
Revolution
Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze
Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.
Revolution
Introducing the MB&F; LM FlyingT Malachite
MB&F; announces its latest take on the LM FlyingT featuring a dial plate and subdial in the vibrant green gemstone called malachite
Deployant
Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The NOMOS Tangente Update (Live Pics & Pricing)
The name is short, sweet, and the dial Midnight Blue.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New, Limited-Edition Run For Montblanc's User-Friendly Perpetual Calendar
An excellent vintage-inspired QP with an attractive, burnt caramel dial.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Moser's New Pixelated Eraser That Tells Time
And erases nearly everything on the dial.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Sinn U1 DS Limited Edition
A distinctive dial donned by a deep and daring diver from Deutschland.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache
The recent Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date is a perfect example of how a limited-edition collaboration can achieve something timeless, classic, and ultimately lust-worthy. In a watch such as this, it’s hard to pick out just one thing which makes it special, however, the oxblood dial is as sumptuous as they come. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye: When Less Is More
Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.
Deployant
Review: new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper
The Breitling Premier Datora is Breitling's take on a calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Datora displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Datora comes in stainless steel with a copper dial or in 18k red gold with a silver dial. “Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and moonphase.