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Results for WWI Trench Watch

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Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon

An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...

Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT

Audemars Piguet (AP) has made no secret of the fact that it’s retiring the Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 15202 at the end of 2021 – along with the slim cal. 2121 movement inside. Essentially a remake of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 “Jumbo” launched in 1972, the ref. 15202 will be missed and its successor much anticipated. But AP is saying farewell in style at Only Watch 2021 with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch ref. 15202XT in titanium and bulk metallic glass. Despite the modern materials, the watch is a dead ringer for an “A Series” Royal Oak ref. 5402 because the dial is a replica of the original, right down to the typography. Note the typography, as well as “Swiss” at six under the indices – details identical to those on the ref. 5402 Initial thoughts It’s hard to render the ref. 15202 unattractive. Close to the original in look and feel, the ref. 15202 has been iterated several times in the last few years, with each version slightly different in style but similarly attractive – examples include the “salmon” or smoked-green versions. Dressed in shades of grey, the Only Watch edition differs from its predecessors in colour and texture, but remains equally handsome. The all-grey, tone-on-tone palette has an appealing industrial feel, which suits the angular style that’s slightly brutal but refined in construction. The colours are not the only differentiating factor for the Only Watch “Jumbo”. The sandblasted titanium case ...

Only Watch 2021: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21 SJX Watches
Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21

Founded to give new life to vintage chronometer movements and resurrect old-school designs, Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) has completed only a few watches to date, but has quickly become known for wristwatches that are elegantly refined inside and out. In its inaugural outing at Only Watch, the watchmaker put together the AdC21, a time-only watch that is simple but executed with lavish detail, and dressed in a nostalgic, “pink on pink” livery. Like AdC’s other creations, the AdC21 is powered by a movement that started life as a vintage ébauche before being upgraded with parts fabricated by hand in-house. And the movement has been finished to level far beyond what the vintage calibre ever was. Initial thoughts AdC watches are intrinsically appealing to enthusiasts who favour old-school dress watches, which often have discreet, refined details that are uncommon in contemporary watches. One of the brand’s cofounders is a vintage watch dealer whose eye and experience explain the house style. At the same time, AdC elevates the design with the artisanal quality of the case and movement, most of which are made in house. The AdC21 is arguably the best time-only watch the brand has created to date. Entirely classical yet novel, the dial has a two-tone finish matched with an unusual interpretation of the “scientific” dial. And the case is also more elaborately constructed than those found on AdC’s earlier works. Beyond the design and craft, the shades of pink that d...

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II What Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001

Departing from its Only Watch tradition of unique versions of current-production wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s contribution to Only Watch 2021 is a desk clock with perpetual calendar modelled on a 1923 original now in the Patek Philippe Museum. The Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock owned by James Ward Packard, the American automobile tycoon who was one of Patek Philippe’s leading clients in the 1920s. Made of sterling silver and vermeil with inlays of American walnut, the clock contains a 31-day movement featuring a perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Topping the mega, CHF31 million result for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A at Only Watch 2019 would be hard to imagine since the Grandmaster Chime is the most complicated and expensive watch in the brand’s catalogue. Resetting the counter with a desk clock is a shrewd move since its avoids comparisons with the wristwatch of 2019. That said, the desk clock is actually more unique than anything else Patek Philippe has made in recent memory – it is literally the timepiece of this form that exists. Even the unique Dome Clocks and desk clocks that Patek Philippe offer in its annual Rare Handcrafts line up are based on standard templates. It’s worth noting that the desk clock has a “rose-gold opaline” dial similar to that of the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, so it might make a nice pair for the buyer of the 2019 watch. Packard’s clock The inspiration for this clock...

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 30, 2021

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On - Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Style 60’s Jun 30, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge

The new Seiko Presage Style 60’s range may be initially confusing. The inspiration lies in their 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph, except that this new imagining doesn’t have a chrono pusher or a stopwatch function at all. Instead we have a slim, stylish interpretation in a three-hand elegant 40.8mm case, and all the right vintage cues. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: 14 differences between the old and new TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection Jun 29, 2021

VIDEO: 14 differences between the old and new TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection

This year at TAG Heuer is all about the Aquaracer, their sporty diver that has its roots all the way back in the late ’70s. But when an entire collection is refreshed, there are inevitably a lot of details that are sometimes missed about how the watch has actually changed on the wrist. So how … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 14 differences between the old and new TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? Time+Tide
Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic DEPLOYANT Jun 26, 2021

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.