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New: RGM Model 25 Yellowstone National Park
RGM celebrates Yellowstone National Park’s 150th Anniversary (1872-2022) with a new Model 25 with cloisonne enamelo dial.
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Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Tri-compax Chronograph
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This black dial, three-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Bi-compax Chronograph
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This silver dial, two-counter chronograph is powered by the historically significant, NOS Lemania 1874 movement, which has been overhauled, tested and beautifully finished […]
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise
As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.
Time+Tide
Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm
I may not be an Aussie myself, but green and gold tones definitely get the T+T HQ going. Norqain recently moved upmarket with their Wild One collection, but that does not mean they are abandoning their positioning at lower price points as well. The new Norqain Adventure Sport 42mm Bronze Khaki Dial is a handsome … ContinuedThe post Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Rolex at Retail Again ?!
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case
Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”
Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...
Quill & Pad
Montegrappa Bijo-To-Yaju: A Love Story In More Ways Than One
Montegrappa tells the 4,000-year-old classic fairy tale 'Beauty and the Beast' as it does best: in the form of a handmade writing instrument. The limited edition Montegrappa Bijo-To-Yaju fountain pen was created in collaboration with Japanese designer Tomita Kazuhiko.
WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review
Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line. A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...
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New: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in pink gold
Vacheron Constantin releases a new Overseas Chronograph in 5N pink gold version with the collection's iconic blue-lacquered dial.
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New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67
The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’
An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...
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New: Krayon Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur
Krayon extends their sunrise/sunset complication collection with the new Anywhere, now with a magnificent new Métiers d’Art Azur dial.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bell & Ross Hops On The Kenissi Train With The New BR X5
In which we say goodbye to the numerals on the dial, and hello to a new movement (and longer power reserve) from the design-focused, Paris-based watchmaker.
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New Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811 - 5811/1G Watch - Specs, Thoughts, and Feedback
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New and reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-X5
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Bell & Ross new BR-X5, a watch which is available in either a black dial or an ice blue dial.
Time+Tide
“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811
During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Krayon Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur
During Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei caught up with Rémi Maillat, founder of Krayon, to take a first look at the brand new métiers d’art version of the Anywhere, a 15-piece limited edition cased in platinum. The Anywhere Métiers d’Art Azur features a dial with hand-painted miniature cells in a blue gradient from top to […]
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New Release: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon, now in red gold
Laurent Ferrier releases a new variant of its Grand Sport Tourbillon in a red gold case and bracelet with a gradient chocolate dial.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’
When I learned that Grand Seiko had announced the SBGJ269 with a pink dial as an Australian limited edition, it’s fair to say I lost my mind.The post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ269 ‘Pink Flannel’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Rolex Prices Still Dropping? A Watch Market Update from a Watch Dealer
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph
Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel
Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...
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New: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
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Review: The New Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5231G
Patek Philippe unveils the World Time Ref. 5231G in white gold, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of South East Asia and Oceania.
SJX Watches
Piaget & Phillips Introduce the Altiplano Origin China Edition
Piaget typically relies on a conventional palette for its signature ultra-thin dress watches, but its latest Altiplano livens things up. A collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Edition is based on the watchmaker’s wafer-thin watch equipped with its in-house, super-flat automatic movement. Ordinarily found with a sedate silver dial, the Altiplano gets gradient green dial with pink gold hands and markings in a 21-piece limited edition available only in China. Initial thoughts Piaget’s typical formal watches with silver dials are classic, but they can be too plain. Excepting a handful with dials in unusual materials or finishes, I find many of them overly formal and visually flat. The China edition, in contrast, instantly stands out. Though it changes nothing in terms of the basic design, the gradient green lacquer and pink gold accents give the dial a vibrance absent in the standard models. Green, however, is today’s fashionable colour, which means it’s more common than it should be. Even so, the China edition has minor design tweaks that give it a more appealing aesthetic than the standard version, like the elimination of the numerals from the seconds register. Priced at 10% more than the standard model in white gold, the China edition is more appealing. Elegantly flat In contrast to similar Altiplano models that are almost uniformly kitted out in silver dials, the China edition has a dial that’s a deep, shaded...
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