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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks Mar 1, 2023

The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode

The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...

HANDS-ON: Go anywhere, do anything with the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series Time+Tide
Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series Hamilton’s Mar 1, 2023

HANDS-ON: Go anywhere, do anything with the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series

Hamilton’s latest additions to the Jazzmaster line present some attractive and versatile all-rounders The Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chrono brings neo-vintage styling in an appealing package With two sizes offered in the Jazzmaster Performer Automatic range, it’s easy for virtually anyone to find a perfect fit     Hamilton are well known for some truly iconic … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Go anywhere, do anything with the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Feb 27, 2023

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa”

Blancpain kicked off the new year with the first of several editions to mark the 70th anniversary of its landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. While the first anniversary watch was essentially a no-frills, vintage-inspired diver, the next one is the opposite. With a diameter of 47 mm, the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” is one of the largest watches ever made by Blancpain. While it still bears some resemblance to its brethren in the Fifty Fathoms line, it is distinct in terms of design (and size). And it also features a complication that’s new for the brand: a three-hour hand and corresponding elapsed-time bezel for extended-duration dives. In fact, the Tech Gombessa is the first in the new Tech Gombessa line of dive watches for professionals. Initial thoughts I expected a reissue of the original Fifty Fathoms for its 70th anniversary (as I’m sure did everyone else), so the first edition wasn’t a surprise. I had also hoped for something more modern, which is somewhat of an understatement for the “Act 2” of the anniversary line-up. The Tech Gombessa’s design is clearly inspired by the original, but with lots of updates, for better or worse. While the elapsed-time bezel is fairly conventional ceramic insert, the dial is big, bold, and orange, though the mixture of modern orange typography with the vintage-style logos and lettering feels conflicted. The case is oversized with no lugs, instead the case goes directly into the case, which should help with erg...

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6 Revolution
De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar Feb 24, 2023

The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6

In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Accutron Day & Date Next Feb 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Seikos, Full Kit Chronos & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions Time+Tide
Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Feb 22, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions

Junghans have a long and impressive history in the Black Forest region of Germany, so they’re definitely not afraid of some snow. Despite being famed for their heritage and Bauhaus designs, Junghans haven’t stopped developing new models and retro-futuristic styles either. The Junghans 1972 series captures two distinct levels of vintage oddity, now paired with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Junghans 1972 FIS Nordic World Ski Championships editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT Time+Tide
Bulova Wilton GMT When it Feb 21, 2023

HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT

When it comes to watch releases, 2022 was undoubtedly the year of the affordable GMT. As the world continued to flex it’s legs and travel again, watch brands were all to ready to provide the perfect wristwear for the occasion. And while some felt it best to package these watches as sporty offerings, Bulova decided … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add another Traveller GMT to the mix with the Bulova Wilton GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2023

Vaer Gets Funky with the R1 USA Racing Chronograph

The Venice based and independently owned watch brand, Vaer, has been a busy one since the middle of last year. They’ve expanded their catalog by launching a series of new collections and adding a couple of brand new models while still maintaining their foundational ethos of designing well-made, vintage-inspired watches that, price tag wise, are as approachable as you can get. Observing the brand from afar, it feels that they’ve carved a space for themselves into more of a mainstream market, offering up a collection of affordable watches that resemble popular vintage design and appealing to those who just need one good looking watch that’ll get them through a day at the office, as well as a weekend filled with outdoor activity. The R1 USA Chronograph, one of Vaer’s new releases, still feels like, well, a Vaer. It has all the characteristics that’ll make it another popular offering from the brand, but there’s something most certainly refreshing about the R1 Chronograph. It feels like Vaer strayed away from the classic recipe book, experimented with their own selection of ingredients, and the end product is a watch that’s more for the deep cut watch enthusiast. The R1 USA Chronograph has a lot going on and it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly what makes it distinct. The case is a perfect example. The R1 Chronograph resembles a Monnin style case, which is a favorite of mine that’s seen on the likes of a CWC Royal Navy Diver. There are also hints of the pillow-l...

Scott Carpenter’s Gold Omega Speedmaster, a Piece of NASA History, Now For Sale via Wind Vintage Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Feb 20, 2023

Scott Carpenter’s Gold Omega Speedmaster, a Piece of NASA History, Now For Sale via Wind Vintage

One of the reasons we love vintage watches is for the stories they tell. Yes, that’s a bit of a cliche, but every so often a watch comes to our attention that is truly historic, and really drives the point home. There are watches that hold personal meaning to their owners (family heirlooms passed down through the generations, for example), and watches that hold special and often outsize significance to small groups of collectors (like a Tiffany stamp on a vintage Rolex). But a watch like the Speedmaster Eric Wind listed for sale recently falls into another category altogether. This watch, worn by astronaut Scott Carpenter, exists at the place where watchmaking history and American history meet. It wouldn’t be out of place in a museum, but if you have the cash, it can be yours.  First, a little background on Carpenter, because the fact that this watch was his personal Speedmaster is a huge part of what makes it special, particularly to hardcore vintage watch enthusiasts. Carpenter was an American naval officer and test pilot who was selected as one of the original Mercury Seven astronauts 1959. After John Glenn, Carpenter was the second American to orbit the earth, and was a key figure in the early days of the space program when it both captured the imagination of the world and was arguably at its most dangerous. Carpenter’s space flights did not go off without a hitch – his Aurora 7 spacecraft that flew in the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission famously splashed down 250 mil...

Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Themed Watches than You’ll Ever Know. Why the SBGJ217 is a Worthy Addition to a Growing List of Snowy Dials Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Feb 16, 2023

Grand Seiko Has Forgotten More Winter Themed Watches than You’ll Ever Know. Why the SBGJ217 is a Worthy Addition to a Growing List of Snowy Dials

Let’s not beat around the bush: Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. As the brand has grown, their release strategy has been, well, aggressive, with new references piling up on old before we can gather our thoughts to write about them. While some might criticize Grand Seiko for flooding the market and potentially watering down their brand name, I’ve always been of the opinion that that’s a very silly take coming from a watch enthusiast. More watches are better. Choice is good. Keep them coming.  But it does create something of a conundrum for those of us writing about new releases here at Worn & Wound. We can’t possibly cover everything, so how do we decide which watches to devote a post to, and which ones to skip. There are a lot of factors at play, but mostly it comes down to a combination of striving to provide readers with content we think they’ll find interesting and informative, and asking ourselves the eternal question: Do I have something interesting to say about this watch? These things don’t always come together immediately. As any watch enthusiast knows, it can take time to get your arms around something to the point where you can form a coherent opinion on it. When the SBGJ217 was announced, it didn’t immediately make its way to the editorial calendar. I thought this might be a Grand Seiko release that we skip, or maybe just discuss on a podcast. But I’ve been marinating on it over the last week, and the more I looked at that dial and conside...

HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave

Having previously owned two vintage watches powered by Landeron movements, I’ve always believed they were unsung heroes in the world of Swiss chronographs. One of the watches I had was a Rotary that dated all the way back to 1937, and the Landeron 47 inside it still worked perfectly and intuitively. Méraud have made my … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22 Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22

Last month, Atelier de Chronometrie, the Spanish independent brand led by one time vintage watch dealer Santiago Martinez, began teasing something that could only be described as unexpected: a new movement. Atelier de Chronometrie had, in a very short period of time, built a name for themselves almost entirely on the basis of expertly restoring and luxuriously finishing classic vintage movements, and using them in thoughtfully designed watches inspired primarily by timepieces of the 1930s and 40s. The brand offers a high level of customization, with clients able to dial in little details as they see fit, effectively making each watch coming out of the atelier a piece unique, or very close to it. This was a niche that didn’t really exist before Atelier de Chronometrie, at least at the very high end, and they’ve absolutely owned it. Now, with the release of the AdC22 less than a month after that initial social media tease, a new caliber bearing the brand’s name has opened up all kinds of new possibilities for Atelier de Chronometrie’s future.  The new movement, dubbed the M284 and described as “in-house” by the brand, was developed in partnership with independent watchmaker Luca Soprana. The caliber has been designed to resemble classic hand wound calibers from the 1940s, both in appearance and function. The construction, featuring small bridges for the going train, a large plate with hand applied côtes de Genève, and an exposed balance beating at a vintage ap...

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Feb 14, 2023

Fratello and Aquastar Team Up for a Very Limited Version of the Deepstar II with an Ice Blue Dial

The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life.  The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick Time+Tide
Fears Feb 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick

Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Worn & Wound
Baltic among others Feb 9, 2023

Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph

Back in 2018 we reviewed a watch from Meraud called the Bonaire, a time-only diver with some stylish undertones that elevated it from mere neo-vintage diver from a micro-brand status. In closing, Ilya expressed excitement about the future of the brand, and how that might manifest in different models. This week, we’re finally getting a look at the next chapter with the release of the hand-wound chronograph called the Antigua. This is a watch no longer content with stylish undertones, instead opting for outright stylish, full stop. The Antigua oozes personality from damn near every angle, and while not without fault, this is a watch that’s not just fun, but unexpected.  Colorful hand-wound chronographs from small independent brands are certainly enjoying a moment thanks to the likes of Studio Underd0g, Lorier, and Baltic, among others, and Meraud carves their own path with the Antigua thanks to the well considered design (a trait shared by the others cited above), and the somewhat unconventional choice of movement. I wouldn’t go so far as to call the Antigua an anomaly, but it manages a fine balance between safe and comfortable, and quirky and strange, landing somewhere in the middle. It’s the best kind of follow up to a promising start, and I only wish it had come a little sooner, as this is a brand I’d like to see more from. $1917 Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement Landeron 248 Dial Soft Sand, Miho Black Lume Supe...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch Time+Tide
Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 Feb 6, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch

Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anniversary Wines For A Big Celebration: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important More Than The Price – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 5, 2023

Anniversary Wines For A Big Celebration: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important More Than The Price – Reprise

Wine can be so much more than just an enjoyable drink. It can link us to times, people, and places. A traditional concept for so-called anniversary wines is to celebrate a milestone, perhaps a birthday or wedding or even anniversary, with a fine bottle from the vintage of the birthyear or anniversary year in question. With that in mind, Ken Gargett shares a few suggestions.

Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 5, 2023

Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design

Editor’s note: This story appeared in the fourth issue of NOW, the T+T Watch Buying Guide and gives you a taste of the sort of the features you can expect in our print magazine. Pick up the latest issue now to check out the top 207 releases of the last six months In 2017, Russian … ContinuedThe post Clowning around: How Konstantin Chaykin put a smile on the dial to invent the Joker, a truly original watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 Time+Tide
Seiko s Feb 4, 2023

Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44

In the internet age it’s become almost impossible to find a real bargain. People who don’t know what they have, can easily find out an item’s value with a quick search, and then throw their ads online with a firm price. On one hand, it’s hard to be angry about sellers getting fair value for … ContinuedThe post Bargain alert: How you could snag 4 vintage Seikos for $44 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Revives the “First” in Titanium and Japanese Lacquer SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Revives Jan 31, 2023

Grand Seiko Revives the “First” in Titanium and Japanese Lacquer

Twenty twenty-three is the 110th anniversary of the first-ever Seiko wristwatch, an occasion that has resulted in series of limited editions, starting Presage SBP359 and continuing with Prospex SPB333 “White Birch”. Now the anniversary edition goes upscale with Grand Seiko. The brand has debuted a remake of the first Grand Seiko, the ref. 3180 nicknamed “First”, but with a twist. The Grand Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGW295 takes after the vintage original in terms of design, but does so with a titanium case and striking dial finished in black urushi with gold-powder markings. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko has done several reissues of the “First”, most of which look virtually the same. So yet another limited-edition remake of the 3180 would certainly be much less compelling. The SBGW295, however, is notably different, in a good way. At first glance, it’s apparent that the dial of the SBGW295 is special. Urushi has a deep, glossy finish that will contrast perfectly with the markings in sprinkled gold powder, also known as maki-e. Add to that the titanium case and the result is a handsome watch with a high-contrast aesthetic that is atypical of Grand Seiko. But the SBGW295 does cost US$13,800, which is expensive for a time-only watch of this quality and specification, as well as being pricey relative to Grand Seiko’s own offerings. It costs 50% more than the equivalent titanium model of the most recent “First” remake, albeit ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Jan 29, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches

Buying a vintage watch can be daunting, especially for the beginner. Some watch brands offer a solution: restoring and selling their own vintage watches. The latest to enter this area is Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC). As part of its 190th anniversary debuts, JLC announces The Collectibles, a curated selection of vintage timepieces that have been restored by its watchmakers and certified by the brand. It offers enthusiasts the opportunity to own vetted examples of iconic vintage models like the Reverso.  A Shark Deep Sea chronograph from 1959 Initial thoughts As a collector of vintage watches, such programmes are a welcome development. I like it when brands take steps to preserve their heritage with such vintage offerings, though it was a surprise when JLC announced this. When it comes to vintage watches, JLC has always been under the radar, so its vintage watches have never quite enjoyed the levels of hype enjoyed by its peers. With The Collectibles, JLC seems to be trying to change that. Granted, this concept has been done before by brands like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Longines. Still, it will be interesting to see if and how The Collectibles develops the market for vintage JLC watches. A 1946 triple calendar in steel Admittedly, such factory-vetted timepieces are priced at a (steep) premium, but they come with a peace of mind, especially since scholarship about the brand is relatively nascent (perhaps in part due to the relative affordability of vintage JLC). On t...

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases Jan 29, 2023

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022

Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022.     First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.