Results for WWI Trench Watch

Highlights: The Creatives at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Having rounded up some of the interesting and probably overlooked at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, we now take a look at some of the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale. The auction includes big ticket headline lots like a F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, and of course the F.P. Journe tourbillon disguised as Harry Winston. But it also encompasses the less obvious, including a Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine, Singer Reimagined Track 1, a Bulgari-era Gerald Genta perpetual calendar in gold and tantalum, and an early-generation H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual 1 that’s excellent value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place in the evening of June 5 (lots 801-852), and on June 6 (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 809 – Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine Black Sea Cheerful and eminently affordable, the Tourbillon Marine is typical Alain Silberstein. Mr Silberstein’s once explained his approach was to create unique, personalised wristwatches that arouse the emotion. By that measure, the Tourbillon Marine succeeds – it sets itself apart from every diving watch. In his 1990s heyday, Alain Silberstein was rebellious and avant-garde, standing in stark contrast to the strictly conservative style that dominated high horology at the time. This watch is from the early 2000s, but still very much a quintessential Alain Silberstein creation. The dial is quirky and playful – the deep sea ren...

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor just debuted the Black Bay Ceramic, an appealing watch that is compelling value. I like it, but it is a well-executed dive watch in black ceramic – not majorly significant in the grander scheme of things. But actually it is significant – shrewd and strategic in its concept, and a neat illustration of Tudor’s clever and patent strategy. Why? The answer lies in the industry landscape. Tudor’s parent is Rolex, the biggest luxury-watch brand in the world. According to Morgan Stanley estimates published in March 2021, Rolex sold almost CHF8 billion of watches at retail value in 2020. The equivalent number at Omega was a little under CHF3 billion, making it the second-largest luxury-watch brand. In the same report, Morgan Stanley pegged the retail-value sales for Tudor at CHF633 million, the result of having enjoyed double-digit growth for several years. Though it’s a modest number relative to Rolex and Omega, it is substantial. The figure puts Tudor a hair below Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CHF681 million, and bigger than Panerai’s CHF520 million. Tudor’s solid growth is attributable to many factors, most of which are encapsulated in the Black Bay Ceramic. Most obvious are the historically-inspired and thoughtful design, and of course the strong value proposition it represents. But more than that it is a masterstroke. Specifically, the METAS certification that makes the Black Bay Ceramic a Master Chronometer is a brilliant move. To be clear, Tudor officially has no...

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)

Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...

Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105

Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...

Heitis Chronograph ST19 V2: Well Built, But Not Inspired

Rather than be your run-of-the-mill fashion chrono, the new Heitis is set to be your “go anywhere, do anything” watch with a touch of class.  Now, usually if you try to jam to many characters into one movie, you end up with a jumbled mess that rarely achieves anything it sets out to do.  Will a watch be the same?

Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234: A Crowning Achievement In ‘Dating’ - Reprise

Since Baselworld 2018, Rolex has subtly been revisiting its 36 mm Datejust models. The two stainless steel/white gold models revealed at Baselworld 2019 were the last of these, and Saad Chaudhry is pleased to now delve into the new and improved details of this popular modern wristwatch.

Big Brand Investments In Independents: Sellout Or Salvation? - Reprise

GaryG has already written about the struggles that independent watchmakers face simply to survive. Expressing oneself through horological art may well be a noble calling, but it’s definitely one of the tougher ways to make a living. Chanel's very recent investment in F.P. Journe caused Gary to think about the pros and cons of outside investment into indies, and he shares his thoughts here.

Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy

Are cartoon-themed watches the same as the joker in the office with the cringe-worthy Marvin the Martian silk tie on a Tuesday? I think not. In fact, some of the best examples of cartoon characters, whether they be Disney or Anime, are so discreet that you barely notice them. And in the context of a … ContinuedThe post Kapow! Zap! Whammo! The cartoon characters brightening up your wristwear from Popeye to Snoopy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Special Edition

Exceptionally light and tough, the latest edition of the TAG Heuer Monaco is made from Grade 2 titanium and is limited to 500 pieces.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Aussie presale, an emo Antiques Roadshow and the best Patek Philippe models of 2021

This week at Time+Tide has been pretty diverse when I look back. We considered the latest Bulgari collaboration with Steve Aoki, the price of Picasso’s these days and the state of domestic Cambodian politics. We also received word that the very first pieces of the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 collection are hitting Australian shores soon … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Aussie presale, an emo Antiques Roadshow and the best Patek Philippe models of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI

If you have followed my coverage here on Time+Tide, you’ll be well aware I am a huge fan of Kurono watches. The brand has cultivated a cult following, with buyers such as myself racing to secure one of their creations each release. Unfortunately past runs have been scarce at times, with references introduced in limited … ContinuedThe post Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wei Goes Hands-On With Panerai’s 2021 Novelties

Wei Koh runs us through the new Submersible Bronzo by Panerai as well as new additions of chronographs made to the Luminor family.

For The Love Of Two-Tone Watches - Reprise

A discussion with fellow collectors that is bound to elicit interesting responses is two-tone watches. People tend to either love them or hate them. The lovers consider them the perfect mix between a sporty looking watch and a dress watch. People who don't care for them may think of them as a weak compromise at best. What do you think?

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum

Very much the fashion of today, sports watches with integrated bracelets have proliferated rapidly at every level of the price spectrum. At the more accessible end is the Bell & Ross BR 05 launched two years ago and now available in three formats: time-only, chronograph, and skeleton. Continuing a glow-in-the-dark theme established by several recent models, Bell & Ross (B&R;) now unveils the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Legible in the dark Initial thoughts Though the BR 05 was contentious because of its design, I’m a fan. The square case – with perfectly aligned bezel screws – evoke B&R;’s signature watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, making the BR 05 instantly recognisable. And it is executed well, with strong finishing on the case and bracelet considering the price. The most striking BR 05 model is arguably the skeleton variant, and that remains true with the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Revealing most of the movement, including key bits such as the balance wheel and mainspring, the skeleton is a good looker. The BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum to be more attractive than its predecessors, including last year’s iteration in blue. It has a tactical feel thanks to the all-black movement, bringing to mind the recent BR 03 Diver Military and feels true to the brand’s history of watches for military and police personnel. Notably, the new Skeleton Nightlum has a clear dial, in contrast to the blue-tinted dial found on last year’s Skeleton Blue. The clear finish gives the Sk...

HANDS-ON: The Bausele OceanMoon IV literally has a bit of Australia in every watch

The OceanMoon has been a key part of the Bausele lineup for a decade, released as a watch made for one place – the water. Designed by Christophe Hoppe, who moved to Australia from Switzerland only a little before he started work on this watch, the beaches of Sydney must have offered some inspiration that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bausele OceanMoon IV literally has a bit of Australia in every watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rectangular watches: the case for 6 of the best, now updated

Our update to 6 recommendations for a watch in a rectangular case, now populated with selections which have been introduced since the last few years.

Fast vs. Slow, Hertz vs. VPH: Your Watch’s Frequency Explained - Reprise

You may be familiar with numbers such as 18,000 vph, 28,800 vph, and even 36,000 vph describing the frequency of a watch’s regulator, but few really know what those numbers mean. Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why watch frequencies matter, but he oscillates in choosing a winner. Follow the discussion here.

This week, Christies are promising the “Auction of the Decade”. So should you believe the hype?

It’s always a good idea in marketing to talk a strong game. But after describing the forthcoming Legends of Time in Hong Kong as the “auction of the decade”, Christies are setting the stakes sky-high. For the auction that takes place on Saturday, May 22 over two sessions, Christies estimates a total tally of over … ContinuedThe post This week, Christies are promising the “Auction of the Decade”. So should you believe the hype? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nicki Minaj flexes an ultra rare Richard Mille worth $980K

The queen is back. Nicki Minaj reasserts her regency with an ultra rare Richard Mille worth $980,000 on social media teasing new projects.The post Nicki Minaj flexes an ultra rare Richard Mille worth $980K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank - Reprise

A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.

A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality

Handmade. That term, alongside hand-finished, is often thrown around in watchmaking, but the term is often misleading. It is very rare that a watch is 100% handmade, and those that are even predominantly handmade usually command incredibly high price tags due to the time-intensive process of fabrication. But what if I told you that a … ContinuedThe post A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Splice The Mainbrace! Pusser’s Rum, Black Tot Day, And The End Of A Royal Navy Tradition

The first Black Tot Day was in 1970, the last day on which sailors in the United Kingdom’s Royal Navy were issued their daily rum rations (“tots”). Pusser's has taken the exact recipe used by the Royal Navy when it discontinued the daily ration on July 31, 1970 and used it to make its rums, the only producer in the world to do so. Here, Ken Gargett fills us in on everything tot - he luckily doesn't go "sipping the admiral," though.

Introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition

A new deep hue of green arrives in the ever-cool-looking and most classic of the Carrera chronographs.

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal

Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Equation Of Time (EoT): What Is It And What’s The Attraction?

In its simplest form, the equation of time is defined as the difference between the time displayed by the position of the sun (as by a sundial) and the mean time displayed by any modern clock or watch. But that's just the beginning. Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains more.

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015 Rates 97/100: But How Does It Compare With The 1985 Vintage, One Of The Greatest Wines Of The Last Century? - Reprise

Tenuta San Guido's 2015 Sassicaia was a warm vintage but an exceptional one, and that is reflected in the wine. It is considered to have similarities with the sensational vintage conditions of 1985, which Ken Gargett has tasted twice and has rated 100 points standing on its head both times. Sassicaia is one of the most famous wines of Italy, and often one of the country’s very best.

All Gold On Earth Came From A Big Bang (Not That One) In Outer Space - Reprise

The most common choice for classic dress watches has to be gold, but have you ever wondered where that gold originally came from? And by "originally" Ian Skellern isn't referring to a gold mine on earth but the original source of the gold before it even arrived on our planet. Spoiler alert: it involves an explosion, a very big explosion!

Fujifilm GFX 100S: sample images and thoughts on image quality

We share some sample photographs taken with the Fujifilm GFX 100S medium format mirrorless digital camera and discuss image quality.

Omega Mania at Phillips Geneva…

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII Part 1 takes place on the 8th May at 2:00pm (CET) and Part 2 on 9th May at 2:00pm (CET).