Revolution
Interview: Julien Tornare, Zenith CEO
The Zenith CEO talks about the need to look forward, whilst respecting the heritage of the company that created the El Primero.
620 articles · 19 videos found · page 15 of 22
Revolution
The Zenith CEO talks about the need to look forward, whilst respecting the heritage of the company that created the El Primero.
SJX Watches
Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...
SJX Watches
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
Deployant
Zenith released a new first in watchmaking technology, with the 100th of a second chronograph named DEFY El Primero 21 – which began in 2017. The same year, Zenith unveiled DEFY Lab, an ‘archetype’ regulated by a revolutionary oscillator developed by the Manufacture and issued in a 10- piece limited edition.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There were some notable absences at Baselworld 2019. A new Milgauss from Rolex, a new Monaco from TAG Heuer; in fact, the only birthday that happened on schedule, apart from the barnstorming return of Doxa in time for its 130th, was the glorious profusion of Zenith El Primero models. But no missing model was quite … ContinuedThe post ‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zenith focus the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero. We begin with the Zenith Defy Inventor – the commercial edition of the Defy Lab launched in 2017 which we have covered in detail. Case size 44mm in titanium case and aeronity bezel. The frequency is increased from 15Hz to 18Hz. Now triple certified: Chronometer CertifiedRead More
Deployant
Zenith El Primero 50th Anniversary Box set of three watches - a true to original revival El Primero, an El Primero Chronomaster and a Defy El Primero 21.
Time+Tide
Zenith hold a certain affinity for mechanical machines – and not just of the time-telling variety. From pilot watches that celebrate all things planes and motorbikes, to El Primero-powered chronographs that take their open road inspiration from the world of classic cars. For the past three years the Swiss manufacturer has also enjoyed a partnership … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Evoque’d – the Zenith Defy Classic Range Rover Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zenith relaunched the Defy collection at Baselworld 2017 with a futuristic high-beat chronograph the Defy El Primero 21, capable of measuring up to 1/100 th of a second. While its design was ‘new’ to the brand, many collectors familiar with the single star brand bemoaned a dilution of brand design, given the Defy’s sha
Time+Tide
It was clear from Zenith’s 2018 collection that the Defy line was a major priority. Because while there were Pilot, Chronomaster and Elite models on offer, the Defy was the star of the show, with everything from the awesomely complex El Primero Zero G through to the comparatively simple, but still quality, Defy Classics. It’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 6 of the best new Zenith releases of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We caught up with industry icon, Jean-Claude Biver recently in Tokyo Japan where he presided over the Asian launch of the Zenith El Primero Defy Lab.
Revolution
The brand that delivered the El Primero steps up to provide horology with its next revolution. Introducing the Zenith Defy Lab.
Deployant
There are desirable collectibles - Speedmaster, Daytona, El Primero. If you were a real watch geek - you'd mention seiko giugiaro design chronograph.
Revolution
Discovering the genesis of Zenith’s twenty-first century chronograph movement: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21.
When the Zenith El Primero and the Range Rover arrived in 1969, they scorched new paths that are still being followed today.
Deployant
Zenith releases the Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer to add to its line of Pilot watches. Recently helmed by the Type 20 and the Extra special series, the Cafe Racer represents a new variety, reasonably priced with a superb El Primero chronograph movement.
Revolution
Launched in 1899, the Tour Auto is the oldest automotive race still running, and Zenith celebrated its roles as rally participant and official timer by launching the new El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition in Paris. The Tour Auto event brings together vintage rally cars to participate in a multi-day series of events including […]
Monochrome
Since its foundation in 1997, Urwerk has looked at mechanical watchmaking from a very unconventional perspective. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have developed an unmistakable style, with satellite hours, wandering displays, and retrograde indications. Their watches frequently take inspiration from astronomy, but the new UR-300 Time Quantum looks not to heavenly bodies but to […]
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...
Worn & Wound
Doxa is on a historic, Anne Hathaway-like tear in 2026. The Oscar winning actress will appear in a total of five films by the end of the year, including The Odyssey (a huge hit), The Devil Wears Prada II (also a huge hit), and Mother Mary (very much not a hit but one of my personal favorites of the year so far). Doxa, similarly, is on a bit of a heater, releasing the Sub 200 T.Graph, a well received collaboration with Hodinkee, a Clive Cussler LE, and another LE with Topper Jewelers all in rapid succession. This week, they show that they still have some gas left in the tank for an additional late summer release, this time with San Diego based Belmont Watches. The new Doxa Sub 300 Beta “Frogger” plays into the military history of San Diego. The city is currently home to the Naval Amphibious Base Colorado and SEAL Team 1, and was formerly the headquarters of the Navy Underwater Demolition Team, known commonly as the Frogmen. The watch, then, is appropriately tool-forward, the type of watch Doxa and Belmont figure might be on the wrist of a SEAL at some point, either on a dive or topside. The dial is in a dark green tone with a prominent texture, the hands are a bright contrasting orange (and the same style as those found on the Doxa Army), and this edition incorporates applied markers. Most notable however, is the fully sandblasted case and bracelet, which is a first for Doxa. That’s a bit of a surprise, to me, given how beloved these watches are as dive tools by rea...
Fratello
Doxa and Belmont Jewelers collaborated on this limited edition SUB 300 Beta, which they are calling “Frogger”. This is the kind of watches that make a suburban Gen-Zer — yours truly — feel way more badass than he should. Because this collaboration of 100 individually numbered pieces gets its name from the Navy frogmen and […] Visit Channel Your Inner Navy SEAL With The Doxa × Belmont Watches SUB 300 Beta “Frogger” to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We look beyond spec sheets to find dive watches under $300 that stay comfortable, reliable, and enjoyable long after the initial purchase.
Monochrome
There is no denying that Doxa is one of the most revered brands when it comes to dive watches. The brand, which has been active since the 1960s in this field, has produced several of the most emblematic divers’ instruments. Yet, if there were one watch to remember, it would be the SUB 300, a […]
Time+Tide
Doxa's SUB 300 returns in titanium to celebrate its long standing relationship with legendary novellist Clive Cussler
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A hands-on review of the vintage Luminox USAF Stealth Series 3400, a military-inspired quartz watch that has spent decades on one owner's wrist.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Explore the best field watches under $600 with hands-on reviewed picks from Timex, Vaer, Marathon, and more, tested for daily wear, durability, and real-world usefulness.
Fratello
Grand Seiko surprised friend and foe at Watches and Wonders when the brand released a smaller, more accurate dive watch at a lower price than its predecessor. The Ushio 300 diver, naturally, was met with applause. So, for this week’s showdown, we thought we’d stack it up against a watch so popular that it is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium to read the full article.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko launched its best dive watch yet, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) Ushio 300 Diver SLGB023 and SLGB025. As a product, it is both shocking and obvious, combining everything Grand Seiko collectors have longed for: a moderately sized case, an improved bracelet and clasp, and a 300 m depth rating. It all comes packaged in a titanium case and an enthusiast-favourite no-date format, and retails for slightly less than Grand Seiko’s existing premium dive watches. It’s a strong statement from a brand looking to gain traction in the luxury sports watch segment. Initial thoughts Seiko’s dive watch pedigree is one of the strongest in the industry, from their iconic saturation divers of the late 1960s to the gone but not forgotten SKX. Yet the flagship Grand Seiko brand has struggled to field a compelling dive watch. Bulky cases, strange proportions, odd depth ratings, and clumsy clasps held back past offerings. Fortunately, Grand Seiko has finally overcome these shortcomings and can finally boast a highly competitive diver’s watch. I made a wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 not long ago, at the top of which was my vision for a Grand Seiko UFA Spring Drive diver. To be clear, I’d already known a dive watch using the new cal. 9RBx family of Spring Drive movements was coming based on trademark filings, but I wished for something that many Grand Seiko collectors have wanted for years – a moderately sized dive watch, wit...
Monochrome
While dive watches are fundamental to Seiko’s Prospex collection, the concept is slightly less natural for Grand Seiko. At first sight… Indeed, the higher-end brand of Seiko Corporation has been active in the field of purpose-built diving instruments since 2008, delivering impressive models, whether in terms of specs, looks or, unfortunately, size. One of the main complaints heard […]
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