3,640 articles · 18 videos found · page 15 of 122
Quill & Pad
In case you missed it, the last Friday in April has been declared International Viognier Day. So in honor of the occasion, Ken Gargett takes a dive into the vat of this often-overlooked white wine that nearly died out but was thankfully resurrected again.
Revolution
Part of the Art Series Collection, Speake-Marin’s Tutti Frutti is a fun reinterpretation of its classic iconic Piccadilly case in red gold spiked with delicious splashes of colour.
Time+Tide
It’s a story we’ve been writing in our weekly editorial meeting for months and months: the idea that lug to lug measurement is a more important fit-telling metric than any other. In layman’s terms, that’s the distance between the outer tip of two opposing lugs on either side of the case. So much discussion. So … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: You need to know your ideal lug to lug size, or you’re doing watches wrong appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Another week, another wind down. Today Melbourne’s mercurial weather is set for a downpour, so Alison and I would much rather be up in Sydney with Andrew at the TAG Heuer Globetrotter event, but we’re not. So we’re making the most of it. And in this case, making the most means cranking the tunes, the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 15th September, 2017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Today’s wind down is a little bittersweet. Sweet because it’s an absolutely gorgeous day here in Melbourne, bitter because we have more than a light case of FOMO. Right now, despite the weather, we’d much rather be hanging out in rainy London with all the cool kids at Salon QP. But there’s no point getting all gloomy … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 4th November, 2016 – the British edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
For about a decade, the classic blue dial TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11, also known as the “Steve McQueen” edition, has been one of the most recognisable chronographs. The square case, the vivid blue dial, the left-hand crown and the bi-compax layout are burned into our collective memory. Yet, while the Monaco series was used […]
SJX Watches
Startup independent brand Mermont has just made its public debut with the heavyweight La Parfaite, translating as “perfect one” in French. Assembled and adjusted by independent watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite is among the most affordable platinum watches on the market, despite its contemporary case size and upscale construction. Initial thoughts At first glance, Mermont’s debut watch could pass for a handsome, stainless steel Breguet Souscription homage, probably priced accordingly. However, La Parfaite is not stainless steel, it is (mostly) platinum – and surprisingly affordable. Sebastien Bey-Haut, a watch and photography enthusiast, founded the brand, enlisting none other than Nicolas Delaloye, a Genevan watchmaker and AHCI member, to bring it to life. Though less commercially successful than some of his peers, Mr Delaloye is a respected independent watchmaker who spent eight years with the Patek Philippe Museum. Mr Delaloye personally polishes the single hour hand, performs final adjustment, and cases up the watches. It’s unusual for an upstart brand to debut with a precious metal watch, but that’s exactly what Mermont has done. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from focusing on the value proposition, pricing the La Parfaite well below industry norms for a platinum watch, especially a full size mechanical watch. Priced at CHF10,998 before taxes, La Parfaite is a full 38 mm in diameter and certainly among the least expensive mechanical platinum wa...
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...
SJX Watches
Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match. Initial Thoughts Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands. Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved. An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation. Beyond the c...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...
Teddy Baldassarre
Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century. To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...
Time+Tide
HYT's latest keeps the octagonal T1 case, but opens up the dial.The post HYT goes for a sportier look with the S1 Series, but doing so in their signature style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Titanium monobloc case, awesome dial design, and a Grand Seiko-derived movement.The post The new Seiko Marinemaster Professional SLA081 is a hardcore, GS-powered monster tributing the very first Seiko diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Grand Seiko anticipates the cherry blossom season in Japan – Sakura-Kakushi – with three models from its Heritage collection inspired by the annual blooming. Flaunting textured dials, one of Grand Seiko’s fortes, the new references respond to the current demand for more compact case sizes. Inspired by the design language laid down by Seiko’s first […]
Hodinkee
A case swap from ceramic to titanium gives the new release a more classic "throwback" Richard Mille vibe.
Time+Tide
With Seiko and Grand Seiko on the dial, a high-beat manually wound movement, and a Zaratsu-polished case, the SLGW005 takes us back to the 1960s.The post The Grand Seiko SLGW005 tributes a 1968 45GS with a double-signed Seiko dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...
Hodinkee
The sub-brand adds a slim, C-shaped case inspired by a vintage model from 1969.
Worn & Wound
Farer’s Aqua Compressor collection has long been a favorite in the brand’s collection, first making an appearance in 2017. Now, seven years on, the UK-based watchmakers have reimagined this line with two new colorways to sit alongside the classic Black model: Endeavour Ocean White and the Hecla Carmine Red. To build this new iteration of the Aqua Compressor line-up, Farer made some distinct changes that allowed for a lighter, and more durable, timepiece. The case, constructed from grade 2 titanium, is exceptionally light at 62g. Measuring 41mm in diameter, with a 45mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 12.5mm, the case combines brushed and polished finishes. The watch boasts a 2.2mm double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, achieving a depth rating of 300m through gasket compression under water pressure. Powering the Aqua Compressor is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, elaboré grade, with 26 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve. The rotor features a bespoke wave design visible through the sapphire exhibition case back. The Endeavour Ocean White introduces a fully lumed dial and bezel using Grade X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal low-light legibility. The stark white surfaces with black detailing provide high contrast and readability. The Hecla Carmine Red, the boldest model, features a deep red dial and an integrated rubber strap, emphasizing practicality with Lumicast ceramic numerals and Super-LumiNova accent...
SJX Watches
G-Shock commemorates the 40th anniversary of its shock-resistant digital timepiece, two new models inspired by the original 1983 design penned by Kikuo Ibe, but in an all-new material for the brand. Made entirely from carbon composite – case and bracelet – the Carbon Edition is significantly lighter than its Full Metal counterparts. Available in shades of marbled purple or classic black, the Carbon Edition weighs just 65 g including the bracelet. Initial thoughts G-Shock successfully evolved its iconic digital timepiece into a fashion accessory with a prominent presence in popular culture. Collaborators that have designed their take on the G-Shock range from artist Takashi Murakami to streetwear label Supreme. And in 2018, the brand introduced the G-Shock Full Metal, a modern take on original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 that added an integrated bracelet to the original design. Dozens of Full Metal variants have been introduced in a relatively short span – including an extraordinary all-18k gold version – diminishing the novelty and appeal the concept. The Carbon Edition is essentially a Full Metal but fortunately not metal, instead it is entirely in carbon composite. Though the use of a carbon composite is not revolutionary, this iteration sets itself apart, both in tactile feel and appearance. Both versions are lightweight, and the purple version is striking. The material does bring with it questions of longevity as carbon composites are not as robust as metal allo...
SJX Watches
Alongside its compatriots MB&F; and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor. The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case. Initial thoughts While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions. The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial. Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements. Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value pr...
Hodinkee
The lauded independent watchmaker brings a striking new movement to a stainless steel case for this year's charity auction – and likely beyond.
Time+Tide
As far as weekly watch news goes, this week really packed in a lot of excitement. A new “Summer Blue” Omega Seamaster 75th Anniversary Collection, new carbon-cased Tudor FXD watches, and the unveiling of the 2023 Only Watch charity auction lots to raise money for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) and related genetic diseases. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional has taken significant strides over the past couple of years in both design and form, while simultaneously offering multidimensional models across the entire collection. Examples include the green dialed titanium diver with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a fully lumed dial with the Aquaracer Professional Night Diver, and the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 200 line, which packaged their flagship dive watch into a tidy 40mm case and refined some of the design elements in the process. With all of these signs pointing in the right direction for the brand, the table is set for TAG Heuer to continue their momentum in 2023, and boy, do they do so with the release of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. TAG Heuer takes the Aquaracer Professional 200 further by going lighter with this new iteration of the Solargraph. All of the case components, including the case body, bezel, and caseback, as well as the accompanying bracelet, are built from grade 2 titanium. Unlike the more refined versions of the Aquaracer Professional 200, there isn’t a hint of polish on the case. Instead, every millimeter of the case and bracelet gets a sand blasted finish giving this diver a more resolute and utilitarian aesthetic. Differentiating Lume The bezel maintains the signature twelve-sided shape with each facet housing a set of six bezel teeth. The black numerals and markers are displayed in-relief, once again keeping the same design language wi...
Hodinkee
The yearly partnership with Laureus continues, only this time we get a blue ceramic case.
Hodinkee
In fact, it celebrates them. In this case, with a limited, double-signed Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT to Celebrate Oliver Smith Jeweler’s 40th Anniversary.
SJX Watches
Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...
Time+Tide
Well, there it is. Our home state of Victoria records its highest-ever day of coronavirus cases, and lockdown is reimposed. I guess it’s back to Rotten Tomatoes to suss out a new binging schedule. On a serious note, it’s a really difficult time for many Aussies, and we would appreciate your thoughts and prayers (maybe … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Bond watches, Mido Ocean Stars and more lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: If you’re wondering, Battle Royale is a relatively new segment where someone in the team nominates a collection or, in this case, a category – Grand Seiko dials – and we figuratively fight to the death for our favourite from said group until there is one opinion standing. Well, not really. That would … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever Grand Seiko dial (and, guess what, no Snowflakes) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sometimes known as the “3180” after the movement inside, the very first Grand Seiko model of 1960 is an indisputably important watch in the history of the brand. Unsurprisingly, the first Grand Seiko has been remade on several occasions as commemorative limited editions. For the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, a “re-creation” of the first Grand Seiko is being added to the regular collection – including a surprising version with a titanium case. With reissues of the 3180 having been done for the 120th and 130th anniversary of Seiko, and most recently in 2017 when Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand, the 3180 remake is now on its fourth iteration, making it pretty familiar. The latest remakes might not please anyone who owns the preceding editions, but for anyone who missed out they are spot on. But the new re-creation is distinct in several ways. The case is 38 mm, larger than the 35 mm original, and identical to the 2017 edition. More notably, it has a sapphire case back, a first for a 3180 remake. The 9S64 visible through the display back Three versions are available, each distinguished in material and dial colour but also in more subtle details. The top-of-the-line model is the platinum re-creation SBGW257. This has a solid gold dial matched with solid gold hour markers, as well as an engraved logo at 12 o’clock, a detail inspired by the dials of early 3180s. Because of the precious metal dial, it has a small star at above six o’clock, which ...
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