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Results for Movement vs Caliber

3,038 articles · 499 videos found · page 15 of 118

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 5, 2025

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement

If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands.  In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Mar 2, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple

Is it Sunday already? Yes, it is, and we’ll make sure you have a good last day of the weekend with this week’s episode of Sunday Morning Showdown. Daan and Lex will go head to head with two colorful chronographs. In one corner, Daan represents the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue,” which gives off […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple to read the full article.

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The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 18, 2025

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int

RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 —  a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years.  Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Fratello
Chopard L.U.C XPS Good morning Feb 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS

Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 You blink Feb 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

You blink once, and it is Sunday again! Fear not - we have another big horological battle prepared to help you softly transition into action this morning. This week, we pit the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 against the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202. It is the watch world’s latest darling reissue versus the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Fratello
Vacheron Constantin 222 up against each Jan 26, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Welcome to another episode of Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we put the vintage and modern steel versions of the Vacheron Constantin 222 up against each other. Even though there are quite a few years between those two watches, you’d probably be happy with either. This week, however, we expect the matchup to be more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar to read the full article.

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Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Automatic Bulgari’s flagship Jan 24, 2025

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...

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Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement

Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Jan 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition

Beware, this is a low-brow edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! We usually stick to watches, but this week, the emotions may run a lot higher. This is, after all, a battle between former lovers. It is a showdown between former spouses, even. Daan and Thomas will perform some post-marriage counseling for a certain Miss Piggy […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Vs. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Fratello
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Dec 22, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Vs. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

Welcome to our last Sunday Morning Showdown of the year. Next week, Jorg will share this year’s Sunday Morning Showdown highlights, so let’s go out with a bang. Today, we put the new Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified up against the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback. The leaks of the Speedmaster Pilot for US military […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Vs. Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands Fratello
Dec 12, 2024

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands

Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.

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Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin has Dec 10, 2024

Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement

High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Dec 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Nov 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets Nov 15, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement

Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...

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In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003 Fratello
Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” Oct 26, 2024

In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003

If 100 people were asked about the first words that come to mind when “Audemars Piguet” is spoken, I wager that almost all would respond with “Royal Oak.” That signals how popular Gérald Genta’s groundbreaking 1972 design has become. However, before this and even after the Royal Oak was released, Audemars offered a very different […] Visit In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003 to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus Vs. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In Rose Gold Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Oct 6, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus Vs. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In Rose Gold

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we threw two fairly affordable dress watches into the ring. This week, we’re going to do something completely different. Recently, both the Czapek Antarctique and Girard-Perregaux Laureato came out in new full-gold versions. Most of us will probably never seriously consider buying either of today’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus Vs. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In Rose Gold to read the full article.

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Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils Oct 4, 2024

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum

I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention.  As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position.  When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Last Sep 29, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown saw two very dressy watches pitted against each other. We continue the formal streak this week but in a much more wallet-friendly manner. These two dressy numbers were positively received here at Fratello, even if they don’t represent the ultimate in horology. The big question today is: if you want […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

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#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement

A flyback countdown chronograph with a date at 9 o’clock and a 3Hz beat rate… A mic-drop meme would be enough now to introduce the seemingly unique Airin Regatta Chronograph that resurfaced in France. I have been following French graphic designer and watch collector David Renou, aka @Super.Compressor on Instagram, for quite some time now. […] Visit #TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement to read the full article.

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