Hodinkee
Dispatch: Motorsport’s Ultimate Trophy Doesn’t Live In A Display Case
It's so much more than a carrot at the end of your AD's waitlist. Don't believe me? Ask the drivers who've won a Daytona (and those who haven't).
Results for Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)
750 articles · 634 videos found · page 15 of 47
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial
What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...
Deployant
WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue
The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
One Of The Coolest Japanese Watches You’ll Probably Never See In Person
Credor's new Kuon GCLX995 pairs a blue ceramic dial with hand-wound Spring Drive in a 39mm steel case. Here's what stands out.
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TAG Heuer X Kith F1 Re-Issue - Yikes
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen’s Luxury Watch Is Way Better Than You Think
If you’re even a casual watch fan, you know the name Citizen. They are one of the largest watch producers globally, primarily known for their relatively attainable mechanical and light-powered Eco-Drive watches. However, what is not as often discussed is that Citizen has a wide range of pieces that extend to more luxur
SJX Watches
A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026
Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko's Game-Changing Watch: SLGB003 Review
In 2025, Grand Seiko released one of its most important watches of all time, the SLGB003. The UFA, also known as the Ultra Fine Accuracy, came equipped with a new caliber, the Spring Drive 9RB2. On the accuracy point, this was a breakthrough that measured precision not by the day, or even the month, but by the year. In
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko’s Latest Prospex LX GMT Steps Further Into Grand Seiko Territory
The Seiko SNR058 is a US-only Prospex LX GMT combining Spring Drive accuracy, Zaratsu-polished titanium, and warm gradient design.
SJX Watches
Seiko Pours a “Root Beer” Prospex LX GMT
Seiko has introduced the Prospex LX GMT SNR058, a luxury-leaning sport watch inspired by the constellation and intended exclusively for the US market. Executed in Zaratsu-polished titanium with Diashield coating, it pairs a richly textured gradient dial with a Spring Drive GMT movement more commonly associated with Grand Seiko. In doing so, the SNR058 blurs the line between Seiko and its grander cousin, inviting comparison not on branding, but on tangible quality. Initial thoughts According to Seiko, this US-exclusive special edition evokes the North America Nebula in the Cygnus constellation, named for its resemblance to the continent. It is, presumably, a coincidence that the dial also recalls a frosted glass of root beer; arguably a more recognisable symbol of the US market than any nebula. Regardless, either reading feels apt for a United States-only edition. On paper, the Prospex LX line blurs the line between the Seiko and its grander cousin. The collection holds up well next to similar watches from Grand Seiko, pairing a more assertive, utilitarian aesthetic with a more cohesive bracelet design. Branding aside, it also presents stronger value proposition thanks to its Diashield-coated titanium case and bracelet; the equivalent models from Grand Seiko come dressed in heavier stainless steel, which scratches (but can also be refinished) more easily. The Prospex LX GMT also benefits from a toolless micro-adjustment system for the bracelet, something increasingly sought...
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Official Dr Pepper® Jack Mason Strat-o-timer Collaboration Automatic Affordable Traveler GMT Review
Worn & Wound
A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025
For the conclusion of Worn & Wound’s 10 year anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair, we’ll be returning to Center415 on Fifth Avenue, right in the heart of New York CIty. For the second year in a row in this venue, we’ll be bringing over 140 brands from 17 different countries from around the world. These brands range from high-end outfits like M.A.D. Editions, to some of our favorite strapmakers like Spring Made, to this year’s mix of new and returning Lead Sponsors. This will be an unforgettable experience! Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary This year, we’re thrilled about our returning Lead Sponsors-Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. They are now joined by Bremont, who’s making their debut at Windup NYC this year. We couldn’t be more excited for this mix of brands, each working hard to create watches for the enthusiast community and beyond. Here’s a rundown of what watches you can expect to see from each of our Lead Sponsors. Bremont – Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey Bremont’s new Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey takes the brand’s signature ruggedness and channels it into a more understated form. Its 42mm case, crafted from ultra-matte Grade 2 titanium, gives it a sleek and durable presence designed to absorb light and reduce glare. Beneath the minimalist ...
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn”
Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement. Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not. The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time
Grand Seiko unveils a second model in its Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) collection, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005. Featuring a violet-black dial inspired by Shinshu winter sunrises and powered by the latest generation spring drive technology, it represents everything Grand Seiko does best. Limited to 1,300 pieces, the 37 mm SLGB005 is made from the brand’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel, an especially hard-wearing alloy that’s making its debut in the Evolution 9 Spring Drive line-up. Initial thoughts The Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 “Ice Forest” was arguably one of the most important releases of this year, finally delivering a long-awaited mid-sized Grand Seiko Spring Drive, complete with an adjustable clasp and tightened accuracy rating. The SLGB005 feels like a worthy counterpart in another metal, quantifiably excellent inside and out. The SLGB005 retains the nearly perfect proportions of its titanium sibling at 37 mm in diameter and 11.4 mm thick, in a slightly heavier Ever-Brilliant steel case. Though Grand Seiko has used this material in the past, it’s the first time it’s been used for a Spring Drive watch in Evolution 9 guise, and also the first to be made at Shiojiri. This is a new colour of an existing dial pattern. Grand Seiko’s dial work is always excellent, especially the hands and dial furniture, which are finished to unusually high standards. The Spring Drive movement remains the same and excellent. While not mechanical, I’d argue that Spr...
Worn & Wound
Five Lightweight Knives Perfect for Summer EDC
Just over a month ago, several of our contributors, myself included, penned an article about our favorite summer watches. While we each had a personal preference and strong reasoning behind our choices, it got me thinking about my summer EDC, and how it changes as temps begin to rise. Throughout winter and spring, I tend to carry larger pocket knives, but I find myself reaching for lighter options as the temperature and humidity increases. While they’re just as capable as anything else, these lighter blades carry more comfortably in shorts, and I even forget I’m carrying them sometimes. With this in mind, I thought it might be a good idea to list out some of my favorite summer EDC knives and why I reach for them. Before we dive in, let’s look over the parameters I used to select these knives. I think one of the most ambiguous qualities that I’ll talk about is “lightweight”. While there isn’t a set standard and everyone is likely to have their own opinions, I’m using 2.5 ounces (70ish grams for my metric friends) as my max weight. As I’d come to find out while verifying the weight of my included knives, many of the staple EDC options fall under this weight! Using this weight also prevents me from sneaking in some of those heavier knives that I enjoy so much. Secondly, the knife has to be safe to carry in your pocket. While a single utility blade is very lightweight, having an exposed, sharp edge in your pocket just seems like a terrible idea. Along these l...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Grand Seiko Dials
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...
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You're wrong about Tag Heuer. Tag is great
Worn & Wound
Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos)
If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide
In the latest Time to Pack, Ed Jelley takes us along for the ride-literally. With cycling season in full swing this Spring, he shares what’s been working for him out on the road, how his kit has evolved, and why packing smart can make all the difference. Whether you’re gearing up for a casual day trip or planning something a bit more ambitious, there’s plenty of inspiration here for dialing in your setup. From bags and tools to hydration and snacks (yes, Swedish Fish), Ed’s approach is all about flexibility, function, and a little bit of fun. If you’re the kind of rider who obsesses over the perfect kit-or you’re just getting started and wondering what to bring-this episode is packed with ideas to help you hit the road feeling prepared and excited. Whether you’re a frequent cyclist or just getting into the hobby, this video offers a bit of insight into how to make the most of your cycling kit. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! The post Time to Pack: Road Cycling Gear Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Achieves World-Record Mechanical Accuracy In The SLGB001 And SLGB003 – Plus Micro-Adjust Is Now Here
With accuracy not measured in days, weeks, or months, the brand has achieved a spring-drive movement measured at ±20 seconds per year – the best for any watch powered by a mainspring.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009
Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]
Worn & Wound
End-of-Season Sales in the Windup Watch Shop
As winter winds down and we say goodbye to the cold, we’re celebrating the changing seasons with our End of Winter Sale at the Windup Watch Shop! It’s the perfect time to upgrade your wrist game with some fantastic timepieces at unbeatable prices. Whether you’re looking for something rugged, refined, or just downright stylish, we’ve got a range of watches that will have you ticking into spring with a smile. Don’t miss out on these limited-time discounts-winter may be leaving, but the deals are still here! The post End-of-Season Sales in the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Previewing Geneva's Spring 2024 Auction Season | Hodinkee Radio
Monochrome
Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027
Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: Featuring Watches from The Sacred Crafts, Barrington Griffiths, and Alato
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Alato Watches Swedish brand Alato Klokor was founded in 2023 in Gothenburg by Pierre Strömbäck. With a background in architecture and civil engineering, as well as professional experience in the construction industry, he possesses a keen eye for both form and function. All their watches are designed in their small studio in Sweden and manufactured in Hong Kong by a factory with a proven record for reliability and quality control. They are a small company with big goals. They aim to unite collectors through the stories of their watches. Their first piece is named Arvet (The Legacy), drawing inspiration from the Reuleaux Triangle, a curved geometric shape with a constant width. The latter is formed from the intersection of three circular disks, each with its center on the boundary of the other two. It is named after Franz Reuleaux, a 19th-century German engineer who pioneered the study of machines for translating one type of motion into another. This shape is...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 1
In Part 1 of this photo-filled trip through Japan, we take you behind the scenes of Seiko House Ginza, Atelier Ginza, and Shinshu Watch Studio – home of Spring Drive and The Micro Artist Studio.
Worn & Wound
GoPro Announces a Pair of New Cameras Offering Big Improvements
It’s probably not an exaggeration to say that GoPro is one of the most influential and consequential tech companies to spring up in the past two decades or so. Known for their easy to use, affordable, and compact action cameras, they have defined an entire product category, and influenced the way everything from YouTube videos and feature films are shot. Their ubiquity is obvious in the outdoor sports and recreation world, and they’re almost as essential a piece of gear as proper footwear and a pocket knife. Over the years, GoPro has continually refined and improved their core products, expanding use cases and making it even easier for just about anyone to capture high quality video of their lives, whether they be banal and mundane or a constant adrenaline rush. The newest GoPros, the Hero and the Hero13 Black, offer a suite of improvements of their predecessors that should benefit casual and more professional oriented users. The Hero enters the lineup as a slim downed unit that is the smallest ever GoPro with an integrated screen. It weighs just 86 grams and is being positioned as an easy to use 4k video camera aimed at curious amateur videographers who might use it during hardcore outdoor activities like alpine skiing, mountaineering, or water sports (it’s waterproof to 15 feet), or something more sedate like vlogging a vacation experience. The rear facing LCD screen is meant to help frame up shots, and users then control the action from the same screen by touch....
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Monarte Watches Monarte Watches founder Domen faced a dilemma. He wanted a durable dive watch that also had a dressy look so he could wear it to work or for a night out, not just for sports and weekends. After conducting his research, he discovered that the only “hybrid” watches that truly met the requirements were extremely expensive. As a result, he reached out to the online watch community to gather their input and preferences. From this collective effort, he believes he has devised a solution, the Monarte Squid, a highly versatile and capable dive watch adorned with numerous little details that enthusiasts adore. Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way, shall we? Only the original guilloché dial was crafted by hand-operated lathe, and all subsequent dials were CNC machined to replicate it as closely as possible. This cost-saving manufacturing process in no way diminishes their ornateness or splendor. You would be hard-pressed to find more i...
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