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Best of the Patek Philippe 2021 novelties
Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
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SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary
Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna
Announced at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna boasts an exceptionally large spherical moon phase display that sits serenely on a dial made of aventurine glass. Powered by an in-house movement like all Arnold & Son (A&S;) watches, the Luna Magna typifies the sort of smartly-executed simple complications that A&S; excels at. The hand-wind movement is sharply finished, while the moon phase sphere is an unusual combination of two halves in aventurine glass and white marble. Initial thoughts The Luna Magna has simple but striking aesthetics. The dial is symmetrical and made up of classical details like Romain numerals and blued hands. But it has a very, very large moon phase display that’s also spherical. So it doesn’t try to do very much – the dial shows hours, minutes, and age of the moon – but it does the moon phase well. A&S; describes it as the “largest moon ever built into a wristwatch”, which I do not dispute in principle, and it certainly looks the part. But strictly speaking, “ever” is inaccurate, for the spherical moon in the Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod is the same 12 mm in diameter. While A&S; did have extra-large moon phase display in a past model, it was a flat moon phase, lacking the three-dimensionality of the Luna Magna. That size of the moon sphere means it requires substantial clearance under the crystal, which leaves the total case height, including the crystal, a tall 15.9 mm. The moon seen from the back The movement inside is...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large Limited Editions
Having introduced several Santos-Dumont limited editions last year that all sold well, Cartier has followed up with a pair of Santos-Dumont Extra-Large watches, both also limited editions but featuring dials that are notably unconventional for the Santos. Leaving the Santos Dumont XL distinct from earlier iterations of the same model, the new dial design features a spiral, stamped guilloche in its centre, along with reflective Arabic numerals for the hours. It’s found on both the new editions, one in platinum that’s accompanied by a pair of cufflinks, and the other a more affordable, two-tone iteration in steel and pink gold. Initial thoughts While attractive, most of last year’s Santos-Dumont models were in the Large case size – except for the ultra-pricey platinum, box-set edition – which despite the name is relatively small by modern standards. The Santos-Dumont XL, on the other hand, is a good size that’s large enough while still being thin and elegant. The pair of new watches are both XL size, making them ideal for anyone who found last year’s trio too small. Though the case design remains identical, Cartier smartly bestowed a new dial design on the new pair, which leaves them looking surprisingly unusual. Though the dial design is clearly inspired by vintage Cartier watches from the early 20th century, the Arabic numerals are novel for Cartier, which makes the two new models unconventional but still appealing. I don’t typically like two-tone watches...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Continuing Louis Vuitton’s slow-but-steady progress upwards as a technical watchmaker, the Tambour Carpe Diem is its flagship watch for 2021. The Carpe Diem boasts a quadruple jacquemart – it incorporates four automata – along with a jumping hour and retrograde minutes display. Developed and produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva complications specialist owned by Louis Vuitton, the LV 525 movement in the Carpe Diem is accompanied by artisanal decoration on the dial. All of the engraving is done by Dick Steenman of Art&D; in Geneva, while the enamelling is the work of Anita Porchet, who needs no introduction. Initial thoughts One of the most impressive watches of the year, the Carpe Diem is highly complicated – and boasts extremely fine enamelling – but the gothic style will be a bit too much for many. I saw the watch in person a few weeks ago, and I was amazed by the delicate quality of the artisanal decoration. The memento mori motif is not for me, but the work is unmistakably excellent. The snake is enamelled by Anita Porchet and particularly fine. It’s extremely slender and its skin is incredibly nuanced, covered in scales and the Louis Vuitton monogram. The tail of the snake is coiled around a single brilliant-cut diamond, while the eyes of the snake are a pair of rubies The only tangible downside of the watch is its size. It is almost 47 mm in diameter and 15 mm high, and feels every bigger due to the narrow bezel and tall, sloping...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Panda”
Tudor first starting making chronographs a half century ago, and to commemorate that milestone, the brand is facelifting the Black Bay Chrono by giving it a slimmer case as well as two new “panda” dials. Available in either a “panda” or a “reverse panda” dial, the new Black Bay Chrono sticks with the vintage-inspired styling of the Black Bay line, while also preserving the affordable pricing. Together that should make it popular amongst those seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The new Black Bay Chrono with an opaline dial Initial thoughts Tudor typically iterates rather than revamp, and so the new Black Bay Chrono is an incremental improvement, in part a response to the consumers’ desire for a slimmer chronograph (because the original was fairly chunky). The “panda” dials of the new Black Bay Chronos are more striking than the solid-colour dials of the 2017 original, because the juxtaposition of colour enhances the sportiness, while the monochrome aesthetic stays true to the utilitarian roots of the design. The Black Bay Chronograph with a “reverse panda” dial In addition, the steel bezels of the originals have been livened up with black aluminium inserts, which provides a distinct, retro-racing chronograph feel. My only knock on the new design is the date – I think the dial would look cleaner sans date, and properly vintage-inspired. My pick would be the Black Bay Chrono “reverse panda” matched with a metal bracelet. It possesses a s...
Quill & Pad
Corum Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold: It’s No Wallflower!
In 2021, Corum releases several new Admiral timepieces, all with variations of the much-loved original colorful pennants marking the hours on the dial. But the pinnacle of these new additions is the Admiral 45 Automatic Openworked Flying Tourbillon Carbon & Gold as Elizabeth Doerr explains.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula
When new novelties arrive, more often than not consumers are presented with familiar frameworks paired with new dial tones. IWC design language is iconic within the industry, so for me to say this new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 looks entirely different would be a bit of a stretch. But this is actually great news. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine
Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive – and arguably most compelling – time-only watch is the American 1921, a large, cushion-shaped wristwatch with the dial rotated off the vertical. Already available in a variety of guises, including platinum, the model now gets an upgrade in terms of materials with the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other watches in the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) collection – Vacheron Constantin debuts a CEP model every year or so – the American 1921 CEP has its case and dial in platinum, while the strap is stitched with thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Wide, thin, and quirky, the 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most unusual offerings. I love everything about the watch – the design, size, and details – especially the platinum version with a silver dial and blue numerals. The CEP edition goes one better, and is even more appealing. The matte, grained platinum dial and applied Breguet-style numerals are perfect. Compared to the standard version of the 1921 in platinum, the 1921 CEP is relatively good value. The 1921 CEP costs less than 10% more than the standard version – a modest increment for the platinum dial and 100-piece production run. But the standard model is pricey to start with, so the 1921 CEP still costs a hefty US$51,000. Pt950 Debuted in 2006, the CEP collection now includes a variety of models, most recently last year’s Patrimony with calendar. Though the m...
Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100
Montblanc pairs their perpetual calendar with a tasty new dial.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K
Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite
Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago – and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Explorer 36 mm Ref. 124270 and Ref. 124273
Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, Rolex is revamping both Explorer models, with the larger Explorer II getting a modest facelift and a new movement. But the Explorer gets a more wide-ranging makeover. The time-only watch retains its utilitarian good looks, keeping its distinctive dial with numerals at the quarters and an arrow at 12 o’clock. But the Explorer is now 36 mm, just as it was back in 1953 and down from the 39 mm of the outgoing model. More notably, the new Explorer will be available in Rolesor – two-tone steel and gold – for the very first time. Both versions of the new Explorer – the ref. 124270 in steel and ref. 124273 in Rolesor – are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation, time-only movement. Initial thoughts Following the mantra of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, Rolex sticks to incremental improvements, slowly but substantially improving its watches over time. The Explorer was last given a gentle facelift in 2016, and it was truly gentle: the hands were lengthened to better match the 39 mm case, while the quarter-hour markers were filled with luminous paint. The Explorer The new Explorer is a product of this philosophy, delivering more in a more compact package. Though the case is 36 mm, the movement boast all of the brand’s latest innovations, while the dial also features a reformulated Chromalight luminous paint that glows for longer in the dark. At the same time, it is interesting that Rolex sh...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers
With the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection, even those uninitiated with watchmaking can clearly see the artistry and hand craftsmanship of the watches. Inspired by art, history, and culture, the collection leverages the master craftsmen and intricate techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. Each dial is quite a masterpiece, serving as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre releases two new Reversos for the 90th Anniversary
Jaeger-LeCoultre releases two new Reversos A non-complicated Reverso in a green dial, and the other will be revealed on April 14th when the embargo lifts.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Aventurine
First unveiled in 2009 as a ladies’ watch, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the petite sibling of the full-sized Lange 1 Moon Phase. Previously available with a guilloche dial, as well as the silver-and-blue livery for the brand’s 25th anniversary, the model now gets a sparkly new look with the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Aventurine. And because it’s historically been a women’s timepiece, the new model includes a variant with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Initial thoughts Lange seemingly used the entry-level Saxonia to gauge the demand for aventurine glass (back in 2018). Consumers no doubt responded with a resounding yes, because we now see the same material in the Lange 1, the brand’s flagship product line. The new Little Lange 1 is a showstopper with its aventurine glass dial. Lange’s watches are mostly equipped with either a silver or black dial, possessing a sort of German austerity. However, in recent years Lange has been experimenting with dials in atypical colours or materials – like the recent Saxonia that also has an aventurine-glass dial – and the new Little Lange 1 Moon Phase continues that trend. The aventurine dial works even better here than it does on the time-only Saxonia due to the thematic congruence with the moon phase. Meant to evoke a “bright moonlit night” according to Lange, the dial does look stunning in the press photos. And although I’m not usually a fan of bling, the diamond bezel is well integrated into the des...
Revolution
Moser’s Latest at Watches & Wonders 2021
H. Moser presents a limited-edition flying tourbillon in unique natural stone dials, and a Pioneer Center Second in turquoise fume dial.
SJX Watches
Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch
Unveiled alongside the flagship The Citizen Caliber 0200, the Series 8 is a line of affordable, integrated-bracelet sports watches equipped with slim automatic movements that have increased magnetism resistance. The Series 8 is made up of three sub-collections: the 870, 830, and 831. All are similar, but have different case and dial constructions, as well as different movements, but are all accessibly priced affordable, starting at $1,200 for the 831 and rising to US$2,000 for the 870. Initial thoughts The Series 8 is essentially a luxury-sports watch done accessibly – the case is angular and faceted, with both brushed and polished surfaces finishes, while the bracelet is integrated. While the styling brings to mind several other well-known watch designs, the Series 8 watches are not outright copies, which is a good thing, especially at this price range where originality harder to find. The 870 with its two-piece bezel The 830 with its three-layer dial of mother of pearl under a metal lattice Though all three models are slightly different, they are almost identical in size at 40 mm wide and a relatively thin 10-12 mm high. That’s a good size that large enough but not so big that the watch feels chunky, which is likely for this type of design beyond a certain size. The 870 with its two-colour bezel seems the most appealing of the trio, with both its case and bracelet being more streamlined. Both the 830 and 831 have the same case that’s slightly octagonal, which m...
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Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.
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AP: hands-on review of the new Royal Oak Offshore Diver
We got up-close and hands-on with the new AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver, now in three dial options, a new caliber 4308, and an interchangeable strap system.
Revolution
Introducing Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
Chopard introduces L.U.C jumping-hour complication with Grand Feu enamel dial in rose gold case, limited to 100 pieces.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils a Royal Oak Ensemble in Green
While blue has been the fad for watches for some time, green is recently in vogue, if for no other reason than the endless stream of blue-dial watches. And so the pioneer of the sports-luxury watch has just launched five different Royal Oak models with dials in deep green – the first, but likely not the last, brand to do so this year. The new offerings are actually a trio of three distinct models, with the simplest – and probably the most appealing – being the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a smoked, sunburst green dial that’s exclusive to AP Houses. In contrast, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold, and the Royal Oak Self-winding Tourbillon (in three variants), all feature the familiar tapisserie guilloche. The platinum Jumbo, accompanied by a pair of Flying Tourbillons Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is the luxury sports watch, and it’s one of today’s hottest watches – in practically every variation. When it comes to insatiable demand, even the most minor of variations will be desirable. So the new green dials will certainly amplify the clamour – because the colour is attractive, deep and lustrous – but also because the colour is unusual for the Royal Oak. It’s almost amusing to see the brand’s skill in iterating a 40-year old design by drawing on colours, finishes, and complications to make the Royal Oak attractive in myriad ways. That, of course, builds on a recipe that’s both intrinsically appealing and versatile – ...
SJX Watches
Kross Studio Introduces the Death Star Tourbillon
A startup that “specialises in creating innovative and exclusive art objects”, Kross Studio made its debut with the Batmobile clock, and has now turned to an even grander piece of pop culture for its first wristwatch. Modelled on the planetary genocide engine from Star Wars, the Death Star Tourbillon has a skeletonised globe on the dial that’s actually the cage of its central tourbillon. Created in collaboration with Lucasfilm, the Disney subsidiary that owns the movie franchise, the watch is actually part of the Death Star Ultimate Collector Set that includes a kyber crystal prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, the 2016 film about the conception (and sabotage) of the original Death Star. Together, the two are very much something for the diehard Star Wars fan who happens to like watches. If Kross Studio’ quirky tilt towards pop culture feels similar, that’s because several of its founders are alumni of RJ-Romain Jerome, the defunct brand known for its Hello Kitty and Pokemon watches, including Marco Tedeschi, who was RJ’s chief executive prior to its demise, and Sergio Silva, the former head Romain Jerome’s manufacture. And the Romain Jerome connection is integral to the watch as well. Specifically, the idea for the central-tourbillon movement was actually conceived by Mr Tedeschi while he was studying micro-technical engineering at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ). He later refined the idea and patented it in 2006. And in 2019, Mr ...
WatchAdvice
2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review
Pros: Calibre El Primero 9004 and it’s 1/100th of a second Chronograph Skeletonised Ultrabule dial Microblasted titanium case Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 44mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Spend countless minutes staring at the 1/100th of second hand in motion Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 In June 2020, Zenith introduced the first new “spectrum” of colour for their DEFY 21 chronograph model. The DEFY 21 model was given an ultraviolet finish, which let’s be honest was absolutely stunning! The ultraviolet treatment was given to the majority of the timepiece, the main plate, the rotor on the case back and the colour on the fabric effect strap. Combine this with the subtle matte finish of the micro-blasted titanium case, and what you are left with is a timepiece that is hard to put down. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Now, Zenith has released this DEFY 21 model in their latest colour scheme, Ultrablue. Never being afraid to create artistic masterpieces in watchmaking, Zenith has introduced this latest colour on the back of what can only be seen as a successful launch to the DEFY 21 Ultravoilet. The colours used in the Ultrablue to produce the standout effect are cool tones of deep indigo and electric blue. The only question is, does the Ultrablue live up to the same hype as the...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT
Named after the planar, angular case, the Sharp Edged series is one of the most striking lines in the affordable Presage collection. The latest addition to the range is the Presage Sharp Edged GMT, the first models that go beyond time-only. With a larger case and new movement, the new GMT references – SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, and SPB225 – retain the asanoha dial pattern and case design of current models, while incorporating a second time zone function and power reserve indicator. Initial thoughts It’s pretty clear that the Sharp Edges models were conceive to offer some of the Grand Seiko, but in a less elaborate watch at a more accessible price. So it’s not surprising the new Sharp Edged GMT watches resemble the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT released last year. The dial layout is similar, as is the styling of the angular, faceted case. In many ways, the Sharp Edged GMT is the smaller brother of its Grand Seiko counterpart and one sharp-looking watch – no pun intended. Importantly, the Sharp Edged GMT is identical to the Grand Seiko GMT in terms of function. It is a true GMT watch – the second time zone hand can be set independently whilst the seconds hand is running. Majority of GMT watches in its price range are conventional movement with an added 24-hour hand, which makes setting the two time zones more tedious. Ultimately, the main attraction of the Sharp Edged GMT is its affordability. With a retail of US$1,380, the watch doesn’t have much competition ...
Deployant
Panerai Luminor Marina in Blue Automatic - the essence of Panerai: quick notes
Panerai first released the Luminor Marina with blue dial PAM01313 in 2020. The watch is a permanent model in the Luminor collection and is a contemporary staple of the brand.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green
Conceived as a home-like atmosphere – and located in more discreet locations than traditional boutiques – AP Houses are key to Audemars Piguet’s retail strategy. And now the handful of AP Houses around the world have their own exclusive edition, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum with a smoked green dial. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202 is an iconic design, and one of the genuine instances where the label is applied correctly. It’s also thin and elegant, while having a substantial presence. And the cal. 2121 inside is an old but impressively sophisticated calibre. But the Jumbo is also one of the hottest watches today, and its desirability has long become disconnected with its intrinsic qualities. Being platinum, the latest version is extremely expensive, but also extremely attractive. The weight and lustre of the metal – especially combined with the fine case finishing of the Royal Oak – gives it tremendous tangible appeal. And the green dial, while not novel (it isn’t a modern-day invention but H. Moser is today’s best practitioner of the smoked finish), looks good. The new Jumbo is, in short, a beautiful watch that’s going to be rather hard to obtain. House exclusive There are seven AP Houses around the world, including in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, which will be the only venues to obtain the new Jumbo. Production will be limited to 100 watches in the first year, which means each AP House should get about two a...
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Citizen Series 8 new mechanical watch - the definitive hands-on, in-depth review
We deep dive into the new Citizen Series 8 Model 830 Mechanical with a unique 3 layer metal and mother of pearl dial, as we get our hands on a loan sample for possibly the world’s first hands-on and in-depth review of this new release. Is this a game changer in the prestige mechanical watchRead More
Quill & Pad
3 New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Models For 2021: Sky Blue, Green, And Yellow, All In Ceramic Cases
The Grande Seconde is an iconic Jaquet Droz model. It’s a wristwatch interpretation of a historic Jaquet Droz pocket watch from 1748 featuring two overlapping dials forming a graceful figure eight. The Grande Seconde is as classic a Jaquet Droz as they come, but the Skelet-One, while retaining the same dial layout, is anything but classic. Ian Skellern takes a closer look at three new models from this surprising line for 2021.