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In-Depth: Restoring and Recasing a Vintage Patek Philippe Movement SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Movement Aug 21, 2019

In-Depth: Restoring and Recasing a Vintage Patek Philippe Movement

In this article we will take a look at a special watch produced for a client in Singapore, which also happened to be a way to give new life to a loose movement that had long lost its case. Although this watch was recently finished, the project actually started many years ago. When searching for interesting movements to restore I came across a vintage Patek Philippe movement in Australia. It was probably produced between 1905 and 1910 for a pendant watch. I liked the style, shape and size; it reminded me a lot of the great pocket watches Patek Philippe used to do, but in wristwatch size. I thought it could one day make a nice wristwatch for someone appreciates its good old-fashioned quality. But the movement was missing the case – probably melted down in the past for the scrap value – while the dial and hands were beyond repair. So a potential customer would have to design those parts from scratch. Because the movement was in relatively bad shape and not running, I could even afford to buy it before finding a potential client. The beautifully classical movement looking for a home But several years later, a client came along. It was a husband and wife who had previously ordered another watch, a pocket watch conversion with an old Moser movement in a hand-made silver case with a sapphire dial featuring gold indexes and hand-made hands. The pocket watch was commissioned by the wife both as a wedding anniversary gift for the husband and as an heirloom to be ...

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Time+Tide
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Editor’s note Jul 21, 2019

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five - it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …  The story … ContinuedThe post Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Pursuit of Greatness in Vintage Complications SJX Watches
Patek Philippe landmark complicated references ref Jul 14, 2019

Editorial: The Pursuit of Greatness in Vintage Complications

There is no real point in collecting anything unless for the sake of beauty. The moment I see a watch for the first time is always the most crucial. The pieces that ended up entering the collection always touched me viscerally when I first saw them.  Over time, almost unconsciously, as the collection took shape, the watches not only have a uniformity of standard and taste, but also reflect an intuition distinctly my own.  Taste is the developed perception of aesthetics unique to every collector, while standard pertains to quality and rarity. In the big picture, “beauty” – in both tangible and abstract terms – has come to encompass all three: aesthetics, quality, and rarity.  The watches I crave and seek, be it the best examples of the most important references of the most important manufactures, or unique “time-only” examples of incredible quality and design, must be eternal in their beauty. In this article we delve into a few complicated watches close to my heart.  Passing time cannot affect an object that is truly beautiful. Just look at two of the most important Patek Philippe landmark complicated references: ref. 1518, the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch in the world, and ref. 3448, the first self-winding, perpetual calendar wristwatch. Their designs are perfectly balanced, timeless, as fresh today as when they were first introduced – in the early 1940s and the early 1960s, respectively.  For years, the daunting challenge had been in ...

Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Jul 6, 2019

Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction

To mark the 50th anniversary of the lunar landing – and the Omega Speedmaster’s moment of greatness – Sotheby’s has put together a Speedmaster-only auction that’ll take place in New York on July 19, 2019. A compact sale of just 50 lots, Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back is dominated by vintage Speedmasters, including examples of every mainstream reference, meaning there is something for every budget – the most affordable watch in the sale is lot 31, a Speedmaster ref. 145.022 with a low estimate of just US$3000. Notably, all the watches in the sale have been “vetted by the manufacture”, and are accompanied by archive extracts. And the estimates are generally modest, reflecting the fact that the watches are mostly in good or strong condition, as opposed to being mint or “new old stock”. The top lot is an example of the first Speedmaster ever, the ref. 2915-1. Appearing quite worn but honest in the catalogue photos, it is lot 10 and has an estimate of US$150,000-200,000. And the watch is one of two ref. 2915-1 in the sale, with the other having a lower estimate in keeping with its condition. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1. Photo – Sotheby’s Other “straight lug” Speedmasters in the sale include a few 2998s, as well as examples of the uncommon 105.002 and the more common 105.003 “Ed White”. With a lower estimate than the 2915-1 but but probably more interesting is the Speedmaster “Alaska III” prototype from 1978. One...

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Launched Jun 27, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...

Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman Time+Tide
Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman Editor’s Jun 17, 2019

Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman

Editor’s note: Our resident Canadian correspondent Justin is a man of some fairly intense and deeply held passions - at least when it comes to watches. His proclivities for bold straps and quirky indies are immediately apparent if you take even a quick glance at his Instagram. His love for the already iconic (and already … ContinuedThe post Spending some quality time with the Rolex 116710 BLNR Batman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Imagine finding this in your pocket – Longines discover their oldest watch to date Time+Tide
Longines discover their oldest watch Nov 14, 2018

NEWS: Imagine finding this in your pocket – Longines discover their oldest watch to date

There are few brands that take as much pride in their heritage as Longines. Not surprising, really, when you consider that the winged hourglass brand pioneered the way for the reissue. In fact, the Saint-Imier manufacturer is so proud of their history that their own museum is home to more than 10,000 historic pieces, while … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Imagine finding this in your pocket – Longines discover their oldest watch to date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Looking back to the future with Rado’s Tradition Captain Cook Mark III Time+Tide
Rado s Tradition Captain Cook Oct 30, 2018

VIDEO: Looking back to the future with Rado’s Tradition Captain Cook Mark III

The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it’s time for the other side of the coin, the modern take on an old classic. Meet the Rado Tradition Captain Cook Mark III. On paper, it’s a titanium-cased diver with an internal bezel. On the wrist, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Looking back to the future with Rado’s Tradition Captain Cook Mark III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 Time+Tide
Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 Oct 15, 2018

VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69

In Las Vegas, a little over a week ago, rapper Drake was spotted wearing the Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 at his concert at the MGM Grand Garden Arena. He took to Instagram to show off the seductive ‘oracle’ complication, which seems the perfect fit for the man known for a few suggestive lyrics … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Solid sports style from Zenith – the Defy Classic Time+Tide
Zenith Jul 15, 2018

VIDEO: Solid sports style from Zenith – the Defy Classic

In recent times, Zenith have made a marked change of tack - away from the oversized heritage pieces that have been their main focus. The Pilot watches are still there, of course, but now the Defy shares top billing as a contemporary alternative. And while the Defy is dominated by the aggressively skeletonised look that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Solid sports style from Zenith – the Defy Classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Follow the two-tone yellow gold road to find some great value vintage watches Time+Tide
May 26, 2018

LIST: Follow the two-tone yellow gold road to find some great value vintage watches

It’s no secret that the vintage watch market is booming. Take a peek at recent results from the big watch auctions by the likes of Phillips and Christie’s and you’ll see that prices are on the rise. Great news for those who have collections that are more akin to a retirement nest egg. But for … ContinuedThe post LIST: Follow the two-tone yellow gold road to find some great value vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A lot of squares and a few surprises – 5 of the best Bell & Ross watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Bell & Ross watches May 3, 2018

VIDEO: A lot of squares and a few surprises – 5 of the best Bell & Ross watches of 2018

It’s always fun seeing Bell & Ross at Baselworld. Aside from the quality, and strong, distinctive DNA of their core offerings, the design-oriented brand is exceptionally good at creating narratives and mythologies around their watches. Case in point is the new Racing Bird series, a colourful take on their vintage line, inspired by a concept … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A lot of squares and a few surprises – 5 of the best Bell & Ross watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the Longines Heritage 1918 Time+Tide
Longines Heritage 1918 Editor’s note Feb 3, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the Longines Heritage 1918

Editor’s note: Even though the dust of SIHH has barely settled, things are heating up for Baselworld. And one of our burning questions is … what awesome heritage piece is Longines going to pull from their archives? They’ve had a good run over the last few years, including this cracking take on a traditional trench … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Looking back at the Longines Heritage 1918 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin get their Freak Vision on at SIHH 2018 Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin get their Freak Vision Jan 17, 2018

HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin get their Freak Vision on at SIHH 2018

After a warm reception to the forward-thinking Freak-based Ulysse Nardin Innovision 2 at SIHH in 2017, the highly anticipated production variant - dubbed the Freak Vision - took centre-stage at the brand’s ocean-themed booth at SIHH. Of the original 10 patents (four issued, six pending) that found their way into the concept watch, three have … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Ulysse Nardin get their Freak Vision on at SIHH 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru Oct 11, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

The latest addition to the L.U.C Heritage collection pays tribute to not only the Chopard of the past but also to the present. To understand how, I’ll have to take you through a crash course in Chopard history (don’t worry, I’ll make it quick). Chopard were founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, who specialised initially in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.