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Quill & Pad
The Louis Moinet Only India is an intricate and colorful display of craftsmanship with a celestial hook that Joshua Munchow can’t ignore: a small fragment of the original Shergotty meteorite used as a centerpiece for the dial honoring aspects of Indian culture.
SJX Watches
Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...
SJX Watches
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
SJX Watches
Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has once again turned to a Finnish artist for the Nocturne, a wristwatch that combines the technicolour luminosity of the brand’s Moomin editions with its trademark complication. Starkly monochromatic during the day, the multi-part dial comes to life at night, thanks to the nine colours of luminous paint that fill the hundreds of tiny apertures all precisely cut by laser. And sitting in the an window that occupies a third of the dial is a huge moon “face” that instantly marks this out as a Sarpaneva. Initial thoughts Though the Nocturne looks quite different from the brand’s past watches yet quintessentially Sarpaneva in style and execution. Although it relies on a similar decorative technique as the earlier Moomin edition, the Nocturne is far more distinct. And the slightly gothic style suits the Sarpaneva aesthetic perfectly. I like the design and being familiar with Sarpaneva’s other watches, I expect the quality of the dial to be excellent. In all tangible terms the watch is winner. But then there’s the price, which is substantial. The Nocturne costs €19,000. That’s within the ballpark for the brand’s moon-phase models, with the premium justified by the fancy dial. And compared to the broader market – especially with the current hype around independent watchmaking regardless of quality or provenance – it’s still a reasonable proposition. But it is pricey compared to Sarpaneva’s earlier offering...
SJX Watches
A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...
Video
Fratello takes a closer look at the Omega Constellation Observatory. A vintage-inspired new Constellation with pie-pan dial and dog-leg lugs.
Time+Tide
Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...
WatchAdvice
What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...
Deployant
The Krypton™ collection is gets a new model inspired by the Vanguard Racing Skeleton collection. The collection is known for its stylish engine-turned skeletonized dial, and is fit with two complications, a chronograph and a large date.
Time+Tide
With a name like Superman, the Yema diver, which originates from the `60s, has to live up to its robust nomenclature. Revamped and refined, the Superman 500 now boasts a 50 ATM depth rating, with two case sizes and dial/bezel colours to choose from. Finding a dive watch with rich heritage, 500 metres of water-resistance, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Yema debuts new refined diver fit for Kal-El – the Superman 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
For an independent brand like Raymond Weil to reach the historic milestone of their 50th anniversary, it is a big deal. As a company, they have doggedly protected their independence and continually followed their own...
SJX Watches
One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...
Deployant
U-Boat launches 2 new watches in their Classico lineup with two novelties in either a beige or black dial, now sporting a smaller 42mm case.
SJX Watches
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
Time+Tide
Having released the first Big Pilot’s Watch 43 just over a year ago, IWC has already filled out the collection with many references. The BP43 brought a more wearable case size and a classic type A flieger dial, for an overall cleaner look as opposed to its big brother. The new Big Pilot’s Watch 43 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Racing Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon gets a facelift with a new blue dial and components like the tourbillon cage and chain now accented in blue.
Video
At Watches and Wonders 2026, NORQAIN didn't come quietly. They came with a tennis legend, a mountain backdrop, and two watches that prove the Swiss challenger brand is still swinging for the fences.
Deployant
Nomos extends their stylish wear everywhere watch - the Ahoi Atlantic with new animations to dial accents. Full details here.
Time+Tide
As soon as the Rolex GMT Master II 126720VNTR was unveiled at Watches & Wonders, the great destro debate ensued. Rolex thrives on incremental updates, shaving lug widths, making subtle handset changes, offering new dial colours etc. As a result, decisions such as discontinuing the 39mm Rolex Explorer, and returning a 36mm variant to solely … ContinuedThe post We just found out what the year’s most hyped watch is really worth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet. Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch. The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand Initial thoughts Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model. At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained. And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet. All three versions are executed well The only downside of the watch i...
Hodinkee
With a light blue dial straight from the troposphere and into my heart.
Hodinkee
And would you look at that dial?
Video
Every year, Cartier brings more watches to Watches and Wonders than most brands release in a decade. This year, they trimmed it back — "only" 70 SKUs. And yet, somehow, we still had to fight to keep our list to five...
SJX Watches
Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...
Quill & Pad
You don’t have to be a Ducatisti to appreciate the Bulgari Aluminium Ducati Special Edition chronograph; it's eye-catching red dial is likely to catch everyone's eye. But it does go great with the fast Italian bike as Ian Skellern explains here.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...
SJX Watches
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
SJX Watches
A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...
Video
The Fratello team is in Geneva for Watches and Wonders 2026. They'll be bringing you daily updates from the show, including personal highlights and some impressions on the fairy's biggest releases.
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