Time+Tide
Cartier brings its Santos de Cartier Chronograph down to a more favourable “Large” size
The latest Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph drops down from XL sizing to Cartier's large size for more refined proportions.
Results for The 1969 Automatic Chronograph Race
44,703 articles · 261 videos found · page 151 of 1499
Time+Tide
SJX Watches
Doxa Streamlines the “Army” Diver for Hodinkee
One of the cult brands when it comes to affordable, 1970s dive watches, Doxa’s latest is a vintage remake with a twist: the Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee is modelled on a dive watch developed for the Swiss army’s elite divers in 1969, but scaled down to a wearable 39 mm, compared to the chunky 42.5 mm (or even 45 mm) of most Doxa dive watches. Doxa has long mined its short but rich history of watches for underwater professionals, most famous amongst them the fictional adventurer created by novelist Clive Cussler. The Sub Army turns to a mil spec watch made for the commando divers of a landlocked country, preserving the design but refining it in size and style. It’s a 250-piece limited edition that sticks to Doxa’s sweet spot in terms of pricing with a retail of US$2,000. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked Doxa’s retro dive watches, especially the signature, oversized Sub 300 with an orange dial. Most of them have an appealing, recognisable look that’s backed up by the brand’s history. That said, Doxa makes a lot of dive watch models, enough of them that I have a hard time keeping up. Fortunately, the Sub Army for Hodinkee stands out in both style and size. At 39 mm and under 11 mm high, this has an easily wearable case that’s amongst the smallest in the Doxa catalogue, but still in the cushion-shaped format that’s a must-have for a retro dive watch of this type. The dial design is unique to the “Army” model and evokes vintage military equipment withou...
Fratello
Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick?
When I hear the name Hamilton, dive watches aren’t the first things that come to mind. The Swiss brand with American roots is mostly known for its great lineup of military field watches. On top of that, the classic Ventura and the Intra-Matic Chronograph are among its more famous offerings. That said, the Khaki Navy […] Visit Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions
Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition
The Citizen Tsuyosa is one of the strongest contenders in the affordable automatic sports watch segment. Launched in 2022, the collection has steadily expanded with new sizes, colours and specifications, most recently gaining a more adventurous personality with the 100m water-resistant Tsuyosa Shore, equipped with a rotating bezel. Now, Citizen combines the sporty design of […]
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet
The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...
Monochrome
Introducing - Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2026
For several years, Union Glashütte has celebrated its partnership with the Sachsen Classic historic rally through annual limited editions based on the retro-styled Noramis Chronograph. For the 23rd edition of the Sachsen Classic, taking place on 14 and 15 August 2026, the German manufacture shifts the spotlight to the Averin Chronograph, whose angular, assertive square […]
WatchRider
The Ultimate Affordable Rolex Alternative: Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 (NK0022-50A & NK0030-51X)
We all love the timeless elegance of a luxury watch, but not everyone has thousands of dollars to drop on a Rolex. Fortunately, you don’t have to drain your savings to get that premium, high-end “Rolex energy” on your wrist. Citizen has just expanded its legendary Tsuyosa line with two stunning mechanical models: the NK0022-50A and the NK0030-51X. Featuring exquisite guilloché textured dials, upgraded automatic movements, and sleek integrated bracelets, these models offer major luxury watch vibes for just a fraction of the price. A Tale of Two Sizes Citizen recognized that watch enthusiasts have different wrist sizes and style preferences, so they released these two models with distinct personalities. The Bold and Classic: Citizen NK0022-50A If you love the unmistakable presence of a gold Rolex Datejust, the NK0022-50A is designed to catch your eye. To clarify, the comparison is with the Datejust, not the Day-Date, because the Tsuyosa has a date display but no day of the week display. Pairs a modern, 40mm gold-tone ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet with a textured, silver-white guilloché dial. It’s loud, it’s proud, and it looks like a million bucks on the wrist (even if it costs less than a decent weekend getaway). The Refined and Compact: Citizen NK0030-51X Sized at a sweet-spot 37mm, this stainless steel beauty features a mesmerizing teal guilloché dial. For those who prefer a more understated look or have smaller wrists, the...
Worn & Wound
The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War
The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...
WatchRider
Breitling’s Top Time Aston Martin DB5 Trio Brings Thunderball Back to the Wrist
Breitling has unveiled the Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, a three-watch limited-edition collection inspired by the British grand tourer introduced in 1963. This is the historical side of the new Breitling–Aston Martin partnership, and it is a far more literal meeting of the two brands than the Formula 1-themed Navitimer that opened the collaboration. Time and speed, reunited The connection is not manufactured from a marketing spreadsheet. Breitling launched the youthful, speed-focused Top Time during the 1960s, and Sean Connery wore a modified Top Time reference 2002 in Thunderball in 1965 while driving the Aston Martin DB5. Now Breitling has translated the car’s silver bodywork, dark instrumentation, timber trim and hand-finished leather into three versions of its modern cushion-cased chronograph. All three measure 41mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, use domed sapphire crystals, offer 100 metres of water resistance and arrive on brown calfskin straps with folding clasps. A wooden inner bezel is the defining DB5 detail: it recalls the car’s steering wheel and dashboard without putting a miniature vehicle on the dial. The silver-dial steel edition echoes the DB5’s bodywork and handcrafted interior. Image: Breitling. Steel: the closest match to the classic DB5 Reference AB0178121G1X1 is the most direct interpretation. Its stainless-steel case surrounds a silver-toned dial, brown wooden tachymeter scale and a hand-coloured gradient leather str...
Fratello
Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5
Breitling has announced a series of limited-edition Top Time B01 Chronograph models celebrating the Aston Martin DB5. These three motoring-inspired chronographs feature a cushion-shaped case with subtle Art Deco grooves in each corner. Combined with pump pushers, the design delivers a distinct 1960s character, making the connection to Aston Martin’s legendary British grand tourer feel […] Visit Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 to read the full article.
![Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f2731bf2-0cca-4542-9684-53f30c9ce71d/doxa-topper-tgraph-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
Fratello
The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Swatch x Omega just democratically dropped the most precious MoonSwatch they have ever made
Celebrating the Apollo 11 Moon landing, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 is limited to just 1,969 individually numbered pieces.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bremont Supernova Hawking Limited Edition
The launch of the Supernova collection earlier this year marked a new direction for British brand Bremont, introducing a bold integrated sports chronograph inspired by spacecraft engineering and destined to become the first watch left permanently on the Moon. Still looking to the stars, Bremont presents the Supernova Hawking Limited Edition, which uses the Supernova […]
Fratello
The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II
Today, we are looking at two spiritual competitors in the dive-watch-chronograph market — the Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II and the Ollech & Wajs Astrochron. Both watches are beefy, tough options for those of us after a dive chronograph, but they have different quirks and design personalities. This article came about after spending considerable time […] Visit The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron Vs. The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II to read the full article.
Fratello
A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood
There is a particular type of movement inside almost every mechanical watch you own, and it does something so fundamental to how we experience watchmaking today that it has become entirely invisible. Of course, that is precisely the point: it winds itself. It harvests energy from your wrist as you move through your day, topping […] Visit A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate - Which Model Defines The Legend?
Few watches have inspired as many variations, stories, and passionate debates as the Omega Speedmaster. Over nearly seven decades, it has evolved from a racing chronograph into one of the most celebrated watches in horology, with countless references that appeal to a wide range of collectors. Ask three enthusiasts to name their favorite Speedmasters, and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Model Defines The Legend? to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Zenith Defy Extreme Lapis Lazuli II and Ultraviolet
The Zenith Defy Extreme is not a watch designed for discretion. This most radical interpretation of the brand’s high-frequency chronograph features an oversized architectural case with an openworked display and offers a spectacle of a central chronograph hand completing one rotation every second. Since the series was introduced, Zenith has produced quite a few bold […]
Time+Tide
Terrestrial Travel, Extraterrestrial Dial - the Tedoro Quadra GMT Meteorite
The Tedoro Quadra GMT Meteorite pairs a striking meteorite dial with an automatic GMT movement and a slim, architectural square case
Fratello
A Brief History Of The Seiko Astron GPS Solar - Including Some Of The Best Models Made So Far
Time from space. The light-powered Astron GPS Solar, which Seiko launched 14 years ago — this article is indeed a brief history of the Seiko Astron Solar GPS, not the groundbreaking Astron from 1969 — was the world’s first wristwatch to use satellite signals to set the correct time automatically. A 47 × 16mm case […] Visit A Brief History Of The Seiko Astron GPS Solar — Including Some Of The Best Models Made So Far to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 'Bumblebee' Ref. 79310N
Among the ever-evolving sizes and colors of modern Tudor, we now have the latest (and smallest and most colorful) iteration of the brand's dive-inspired chronograph, the Black Bay Chronograph 39. Dubbed the "Bumblebee" for its bright yellow dial and black accents, it marks the progressive 39-ification of Tudor's core lineup and forms what I think will be a very appealing new offering for the brand. When Tudor returned to the American market in 2012, the brand's core offerings evolved around an initial 41mm footprint. This includes early hits like the Black Bay, the Heritage Chrono, and the Ranger. Then, in 2017, Tudor announced the Black Bay Chronograph 79350, a 41mm steel chronograph with 200 meters of water resistance and snowflake hands. Since then, the Black Bay Chronograph range has been tweaked, improved, and expanded considerably, with additional colors (including the recent pink and flamingo blue). But while we saw the Black Bay eventually offer the 39mm 58 range and the Ranger drop to 39mm (and later to 36mm), the Chronograph range remained steadfast at 41mm. While 41mm is within the range for a conventionally sized modern sports watch, the enthusiast taste has shifted toward the 39mm sweet spot (likely at least in part due to the success of the Black Bay 58 and the Pelagos 39). Additionally, as slightly smaller cases continue to be in vogue, more attention is (and was) being paid to case thickness. The 41mm spec of the Black Bay Chrono wears well, but it's not sm...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Split Watches Comes To The U.S. With Its New GMT (Live Pics)
What We Know If you haven't heard of the brand Split before, you're likely not alone. The brand has not previously been distributed in the U.S., but it came to my attention when their chronograph, called "In The Skies," launched with a fully luminous case made from a proprietary ceramic-and-polymer fusion called Ceramod+. At $2,053, it was an interesting and fun novelty, and cheaper than the IWC Ceralume Perpetual Calendar (though a vastly different proposition, to be fair). Now that material, sans lumen, is coming to the United States with a new, relatively affordable GMT. But the watches are only a small part of the story for Split. The brand was co-founded by Edward Margulies, the third generation of a prominent family of UK-based Swiss watch distributors. His father, Marcus Margulies, might be known to some as the collector behind one of the most impressive collections of Audemars Piguet watches in history, which formed the basis for much of the AP museum. Edward moved to Switzerland at the age of 19 to train to follow in his footsteps. While the press release talks about how he spent his life putting on a smile to hide a frown caused by burying trauma for years, his interview in the New York Times reveals something deeper. The reality is that, after decades of struggling with his mental health and taking traditional paths of therapy and antidepressants, his physical health had deteriorated, and he was prescribed fentanyl. "Next thing I know," he said to the New York...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ollech & Wajs Answers Years of Community Demand With the EB-24 Early Bird
Ollech & Wajs marks its 70th anniversary by launching the Early Bird as the EB-24, a 24-hour automatic powered by a Soprod P125 movement.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Farer Goes Hand-Wound with a 38mm Racing Chronograph in Three Colorways
The new Farer Racing Chronograph pairs a hand-wound Sellita movement with 1960s racing watch design cues across three colorways.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Baltic Scalegraph Collection Becomes Permanent, Now in Champagne, Blue, and Grey
When the Paris-based brand Baltic released the Peter Auto Tricompax in 2022, it was well received by enthusiasts. The watch looked straight back at classic racing chronographs and carried a strong vintage feel. This 1960s-inspired limited-edition watch fit neatly into Baltic’s chronograph story, which began in 2017 with the neo-vintage Bicompax 001 and later became […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Limited Edition Silvretta Classic 2026
Every summer, hundreds of classic cars take to the Alpine roads of Austria’s Montafon region for the Silvretta Classic. This rally has become a regular fixture in Union Glashütte‘s calendar too, with the German brand releasing a dedicated limited edition almost every year. The Viro Chronograph Silvretta Classic 2023, with its bicompax layout, was followed […]
Deployant
New colours for Louis Moinet Time to Race Flash
Louis Moinet releases an addition to their Time to Race collection with a new chromatic expression which they call the Flash.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Colourful Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection in Pastel Ceramic
Since 2017, Hublot has celebrated the arrival of each summer with a special collection unveiled in Saint-Tropez. For 2026, the brand prepared a series of Big Bang watches, demonstrating Hublot’s mastery of coloured ceramic. The range offers a lighter, seasonal interpretation of the Big Bang and spans manufacture chronographs, a tourbillon and compact automatic models. Two […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Seiko, Omega, and More for the 150th eBay Finds!
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Pogue 6139-6002 Here’s a sweet classic piece, a vintage Seiko 6139-6002 “Pogue” chronograph. The title says 1971, but the serial number dates this to August 1973. The “Pogue” nickname refers to Colonel William Pogue who famously wore his yellow dial 1972 Seiko 6139-6005 for his Skylab 4 space mission in late 1973/early 1974. Even though this isn’t the exact Pogue model, pretty much any yellow dialed 6139-600X is referred to as that. The 6139-600X is a superb watch, with killer style and robust construction. The squarish case is instantly recognizable, as is the bright yellow dial. This example is in excellent condition. The case is unpolished with the original brushed finish and crisp edges, the dial is super clean as are the hands. The ‘Pepsi’ tachymeter bezel has a light fade to it, and the watch comes on the correct original H-link steel bracelet. The seller states the watch runs well. This is a very popular watch, and one that is increasingly hard to find in good, original condition at auction. View auction here Vintage Lemania Chronograph Next is a great looking vintage 1970s Lemania chronograph. This one has a definite 70s style, with the chunky cushion ca...