6,268 articles · 29 videos found · page 153 of 210
Revolution
Wei catches up with Mr. Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation, who will soon celebrate 40 years with the company in 2024. From his humble beginnings at the company straight out of university to leading it from strength to strength as it grows its presence around the world, Mr Naito shares the key milestones […]
Teddy Baldassarre
While the definition of what constitutes a unisex watch in 2023 can vary widely, it's fairly undeniable that watchmakers are putting a great deal of effort into designing and producing watches that will appeal simultaneously to prospective male and female customers alike. Decision-makers at the brands, it turns out, are becoming more and more attuned to the truism that not all men are looking for wrist-dominating titans and not all women are enticed by lilliputians encrusted in dazzling stones. Acknowledging up front that watch enthusiasts' tastes are as infinite as the styles available to them - in short, any watch can be a men's or a ladies' watch, even if it's marketed otherwise - we take a crack here at assembling a list of unisex watches based on a handful of loose criteria, including size (most under 38mm), genre elements (neither too tool-oriented or overtly jewelry-focused), and color choices (more daring hues than sober ones). As per tradition, we cover a wide range of choices in many price segments, in ascending order from under $200 to over $50,000. Timex Marlin Hand Wound 34mm Price: $139, Case Size: 34 mm, Thickness: 10 mm, Lug To Lug: 41 mm, Strap Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Mechanical Hand-wind The vintage-look Timex Marlin was the first mechanical watch the company had made in over 30 years when it was rolled out in 2017. It’s based on a 1960s model and Timex’s designers were obviously not shy about s...
Time+Tide
At Watches & Wonders this year, I got talking to Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier about all the famous people who’d worn her brand over the years from Charlie Chaplin to Pablo Picasso. If she could choose anyone from history to be a JLC ambassador, I asked, who would she pick? “Leonardo Da Vinci,” she replied. … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil Lenny Kravitz as their new Ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Collective Horology have recently announced a retail partnership with Formex, and this week we get a first look at a new Reef that will be available exclusively in the Collective shop, and at our Windup Watch Fair. The Reef as we know it today ushered in a new chapter for the brand back in 2020 (you can see our thoughts on that watch right here), and this latest edition expands that story a bit further with a unique new dial that suits the watch rather well, if you ask me. Rather than creating a brass case, as we’ve seen on a broad range of modern divers, Formex and Collective Horology have opted for a brass dial. The case and bezel design of the Reef are quite distinctive, I’d say they have a ‘big personality’ but without the accompanying heft. This is a watch that makes a big first impression, but manages to be surprisingly wearable in use. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, but the 47mm lug to lug distance, and sub 12mm thickness make the Reef rather pleasant on the wrist. As we say, it’s not about the numbers if the watch manages to bring the design together in an ergonomic manner, and the Reef has most certainly done that. The big personality of the case means you can go big on the dial as well, and that’s exactly what this collaboration has done. It’s not a salmon dial, it’s a brass dial. The bright, warm color and aggressive texture all bring a vibe that works incredibly well with the Reef as a whole. In fact, I’d go so far as to call th...
Worn & Wound
I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them. And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection? My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...
Time+Tide
Colourful, time-only watches have become the new hot thing, as their mechanical simplicity offers a great canvas for some funky dial tones. The latest in line is a quartet of TAG Heuer Carrera Date models, sized at a unisex-friendly 36mm diameter and with some subtle changes that make for a hugely improved on-wrist feel over … ContinuedThe post Funky colours and subtle upgrades for the TAG Heuer Carrera Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
What’s your pop culture blindspot? Everyone has at least one. I know people who have devoured every important prestige TV hit over the last two decades except The Sopranos, for example. And then you’ve got music obsessives who have an encyclopedic knowledge of the most obscure indie rock from a specific period of time (usually whenever they went to college) but might have ignored an entire genre for years. These blindspots are nothing to be ashamed of. No one can possibly be exposed to everything, and there are so many variables involved when it comes to access – it’s easy for something to slip right by you if you don’t have a subscription to a particular cable channel, use the right music streaming service, or are on the cusp of aging out of the target market for something. I have two pop culture blindspots I’m prepared to volunteer today. One is anything related to Harry Potter. I’ve never read the books, and I have only the foggiest memories of seeing what I think is one of the first two or three of the movies. The second is anything related to Pokémon. It feels good to get that off my chest. I honestly don’t even know what Pokémon is, really. It’s an animated series, right? But also a card game? I do know that certain Pokémon cards sell for amounts that could finance dream watches for many of us. I’m also vaguely aware of Pokémon video games, but I’ve never played one. The truth is, I don’t know a Charmander from a Chimchar (I looked both ...
Worn & Wound
In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, Zach and Blake take a gander at not three, but 4 watches that represent 4 very different approaches to the small/kinda-small independent brand space. We get a first look at a couple favorites from Brew and Vulcain that you might be familiar with, and find plenty to enjoy in these staples, as well as ponder if there’s any colorway that wouldn’t suit the Metric (if so, we haven’t found it). There are also a pair of unexpected watches from the brands Timeless and Atelier Holger, each displaying unique and conceptual ideas that we look forward to exploring further in their full reviews, coming soon. The Timeless HMS presents an array of ideas, and while they might not all land, there’s plenty of details to admire. Likewise, the Atelier Holger takes plenty of risks that we love seeing, and looks to challenge a price range not often occupied by new micro-brands. They represent two stand out releases this year from brands we hope to see more from. Drop any questions about these in the comments below or on YouTube and we’ll be sure to address them in their reviews. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Steampunk Surprises & Unexpected Movements appeared first on Worn...
Worn & Wound
Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...
Worn & Wound
Now in its ninth year, and fourth in San Francisco, the Windup Watch Fair has become a fixture of the San Francisco watch community. Every April, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, we have for the first time in SF, a full slate of FREE panels and programming. We’ve put together a full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. We’re also beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year, which is double the size of last year’s events. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Throughout the days, attendees can expect food trucks, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as sponsored giveaways from Bespoke Watch Project and Fils...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Accutron Here we have a beautiful Accutron with a cool, space-age design. As if the now classic caliber 218 tuning fork movement isn’t futuro enough, the dial and handset on this one take it to the next level. The champagne dial has a radial brushed finish and thin yet bold radial lines for hour markers. The unpolished steel case is simple and round, but with a nice beveled bezel and sharp chamfers on the angled lugs. The bold red hour and minute hands along with the black second hand complete the space-age look. Signed crown at 4 o’clock…as it should be. Seller states the watch runs and keeps time. Vintage Accutrons don’t get much better than this! View auction here. Eagle Star Diver Here’s a vintage diver I haven’t seen before. I have a couple of vintage Eagle Star Squale divers from the 1960’s, but it looks like Eagle Star kept going into at least the 1980’s! This diver has a great look, and is in fantastic condition. The steel case has the classic Submariner style with the crown guards, and looks to be sharp and unpolished. The black dial has large lume Arabic numerals and a simple date window at 3 o’clock. The hands are black and white with lume p...
Worn & Wound
When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...
SJX Watches
Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...
Worn & Wound
Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point. As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches. The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...
SJX Watches
One of the most compelling new releases at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Rolex Perpetual 1908, brand’s most serious take on the dress watch in decades. Elegantly sized and surprisingly thin, the 1908 is equipped with the all-new, automatic cal. 7140. Perhaps the most significant debut from Rolex in recent years, the 1908 replaces the ill-fated Cellini. Named after the year Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the 1908 is significant not so much for what it is – a dress watch with exceptional quality of manufacture – but simply because it is the first new collection of watches from Rolex in decades. Importantly, the 1908 is the first model in the new Perpetual collection, which implies that Rolex will be introducing more watches like this in time to come. Initial thoughts In my view, the Cellini collection always felt underdeveloped. The models introduced in 2017 had potential, but they shared too much in common with their sportier siblings, both in terms of movements and dimensions, leaving them feeling too clunky to be an alternative to the entry-level dress watches from traditional haute horlogerie brands. The 1908, on the other hand, feels like a proper effort. Compared to the outgoing Cellini models, almost every detail has been tangibly upgraded to some degree. In the hand, the 1908 feels like a Rolex – the tactile feel of quality is quickly apparent. Despite being fairly svelte at 9.5 mm high, the case of the 1908 has the solidity of an Oyster case – th...
Worn & Wound
Hello, it’s me, Kat Shoulders, your friendly neighborhood photographer. As the Media Production Manager here at Worn & Wound, I tend to be more behind the scenes, but I have a goal this year to be a little more active with the editorial team as much as I can. I was honored to get to join the team this year at Watches & Wonders and had a freaking blast at my first show. I’ll admit it was a bit overwhelming at first, but by the time I was boarding my flight back to the states I really did not want to come back home. Being in Geneva felt like I was in the center of the watch world. Where it was ok to flaunt and talk about your watches as much as you wanted to or walk up to someone and ask what watch they were wearing. It was truly an experience that has put me on a bit of a high since I left and I find myself a bit more engaged in the watch release world again. It’s tough working in this industry sometimes – you get a bit jaded when it comes to new watches. Watches & Wonders really lifted my WIS spirits and it was lovely to get behind the camera to shoot many of the novelties at the show. I shot more watches than I can recall at Watches & Wonders but I had a few standouts that I’d like to give some special attention to. These are pieces that for some reason or another just really stood out to me and gave me all those warm fuzzy feelings inside. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds The new JLC Reverso Tribute Chrono was certainly a favorite among many...
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer is celebrating the Carrera’s 60th Birthday this year, and doing so, has released the vintage inspired 39mm “Glassbox” Carrera Chronograph at Watches and Wonders. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the watches prior to it’s release, and was quietly impressed! What We Like Great styling and designComfortable and easy to wearSizing hits the mark What We Don’t Like Leather strap could use some additional styling cuesLack of lume on the dialMovement finishing is a step up from the old, but could be better given the price point Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8/10 No matter what you think about TAG Heuer, it’s hard to argue that they are one of the most recognised luxury watch brands in the world. Synonymous with motorsport, TAG Heuer have helped to shape the modern day chronograph, evolving the Carrera over the six decades since Jack Heuer designed and produced the very first Carrera in 1963. For those keeping track, I was not the biggest fan of TAG Heuer, and wasn’t until I reviewed the 60th Anniversary Edition TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronograph (which you can check out here) around 12 months ago that I started to change my mind. The all new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” TAG Heuer are having a renaissance of sorts. They are revisiting their roots, heading back to the days of Jack Heuer and what helped to make them the brand they are today. And the new Carrera Chronogra...
Worn & Wound
Fratello announced their latest limited edition last week, a collaboration with Straum, a Norwegian brand on the rise who made some noise a few years ago with the Opphav, a stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch made for an affordable price with a dynamic textured dial. The new collaborative watch with Fratello is notable in that it appears to be a true collaboration, with Straum making rather significant changes to their design at Fratello’s request. This is somewhat rare in the world of collaborative watches, and in this case has resulted in a rather compelling edition with a fiery red dial and some key refinements made from the brand’s earlier watch. The Fratello x Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition is named for a Norwegian island that the brand has tapped for inspiration when it comes to the striking red dial. Fratello describes it as “lava red” fumé, appropriate given Jan Mayen is home to the Beerenberg volcano. Ridges emanating from the dial’s center replicate flowing lava, and the effect is achieved via a stamping process followed by several steps of painting and surface finishing treatments. The dial text is minimal, just the brand’s logo and wordmark at 12:00, allowing the unique texture to truly take a starring role. There are several small details beyond the new dial design that differentiate the new LE from Straum’s earlier Opphav. First, the case size has been slightly reduced, from just shy of 41mm to 39mm. At the same time, the bezel...
Time+Tide
Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Norqain is celebrating their 5th anniversary, and 5 years of their brand-debuting Independence collection Three have solid coloured dials (green, brown, and MOP), two are skeletons All COSC-certified, and each feature their new bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment At this very moment Norqain, the press, and their partners are rocking out in Zermatt, Switzerland for the … ContinuedThe post Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/04/Formex_EssenceLeggera_13.jpg)
Worn & Wound
A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections. *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...
Time+Tide
Watch fans were eagerly awaiting Watches & Wonders, with over 40 brands presenting their new novelties at the fair. But, for one brand, there was exceptional anticipation – and that brand was IWC. In our watch-bubble, murmurs spread like wildfire that would be the year that IWC would revamp their beloved Ingenieur watch. Fortunately, IWC … ContinuedThe post Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier in the week it was revealed an incredibly significant pocket watch is about to hit the auction block, and, closing out the week, Hublot, even after a ton of novelty drops at Watches & Wonders, announced two new special editions. A fair bit to discuss, let’s jump right into it. Phillips to auction historically … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The name Simon Brette might be unfamiliar to most, but the 35-year-old watchmaker has spent a decade behind the scenes at some of the most creative independent watch companies in Switzerland. In 2021, he decided to start a business that is centered on independent artisans, with himself as the movement designer. The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription […]
Hodinkee
This year the Offshore turns 30. In this video interview with CEO François-Henry Bennahmias and heritage head Raphaël Balestra, part of their AP Talks series, we look back at how it changed the horological landscape by infiltrating popular culture.
Worn & Wound
In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status. What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment. First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...
Worn & Wound
The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...
Worn & Wound
At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches. No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible. Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...
Quill & Pad
Martin Green thinks that the only downside of the Armin Strom Orbit was that it launched as a limited edition of just 25 pieces, which are already sold out. More will follow, and that is at least some good news as he declares the Orbit the best watch with a date complication currently available.
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